I have searched and found no "camaro" or "monsoon" besides the VW witch is much different.
Doing an CarPC with a SB live 5.1
Now the monsoon system consists of a head unit that i believe does a small amount of amping...running 6 channels to a 500w(about 400w overrated lol)
lots info here
What i plan on doing it running the remote to the PSU 12v wire as i read recomended here.
And to attach speakers, run head phone jacks out of the sound card and soder them into the factory wires using the pin outs in the link above.
Will this work? and one know of anyone who has done this?
My concerns are that the sound quallity will sux due to all the ampage will be now done by the monsoon amp soly, no more head unit amp.
How many of yall think i should just buy a new amp and run these
Radio shack rca adaptors To a nice alpine/ kenwood amp. this would require a $200 amp + all new wireing + all new speakers becuase the monsoon it 1/2 the OHMage of normal speakers
Just looking for opinions and trying to get all the kinks out before i install it
THANKS! (sorry for spelling errors, i swear i gradumakted from college!)
Audio Rockford Fosgate: 900 Watt 4-channel amp, 501bd Mono amp
Computer AMD 2400+ XP, 1 GB DDR RAM, Orbit Micro 250W DC-DC PSU
Head units are for cheaters!
sure some girls fake orgasms.....but it's guys like me who fake the whole relationship
This seems so familiar... First of all, don't connect the PC line level out directly to the speaker level wires in your car. All 4 tweeters are powered off the head unit plus the rear amp uses those for input. Someone had a link to a small 4 channel line level to speaker level converter thing, but I don't see it. Personally, I think you'd be much happier replacing all the speakers and amp(s) with better stuff. Just remember those sail panel speakers are DVC subs, and you can get wire harnesses for all the connectors if you don't want to cut any wires.
I was able to get a Discman to playing beautifullly through my 8 speaker system. My car has a "premium sound system" from the factory. It contained an amp seperate from the head unit. I was able to get a Metra "amp integration harness" with RCA plugs. Worked great and was easy to use.
However, it was impossible getting the car computer working. I got horrible engine noise - which I believe was caused by a ground loop problem. I tried many different configurations and different tricks to solve the problem. Since it was a factory amp I couldn't ground the amp to the same place as the car computer.
In the end I purchased a small Alpine amp (FV240) and installed it under the driver's side seat. Works pretty good, but I think the factory amp contained crossovers - so there is still more tweaking to do.
1997 Toyota Celica
Don't even mess with it. Trust me. The Monsoon amp is not only garbage, as everything in the signal chain is, but it's so integrated (amp is also crosover, 2 ohm speakers. etc) It's really not worth the time or money messing with it. If you are tired with the distortion-box sound from the Monsoon, do this:
1) Save your $$
2) Buy a decent head unit (or if doing car-puter, you can use the sound card as the head unit)
3) Buy some decent 6.5" coaxial speakers (Focal, JL Audio,etc.)
4) Buy a 100' roll of 14-16 gauge speaker wire off Ebay, and amplifier wiring off Knukonceptz.com.
5) Buy a decent amplifier (75w+ per channel, 4-channels) (used?)
Gut the interior and install it all one weekend. The monsoon amp is so crappy, you will never be happy with the way it sounds. I know the site is down right now for some reason, but for F-body specific stereo information, visit the www.fbodyaudio.com forums. Good luck!
Thanks guys. I guess i will plan on replacing it all.
I may try to get it to work first as a temp fix but i know that POS monsoon amp is killing my sound.
BTW guys i will be running no headunit
2 more questions
1. is been awihle since electricity class but how can you change the ohms on speakers?
my factory speakers are all 2 ohms, and i think every other speaker is 4 ohms. I want a good set of componets up front, but i want to keep the back seat subs. they sound really good. can i wire them up to turn a 4 ohn signal into a 2ohm speaker?
Thats only 6 ft
I have a couple sets of 12 foot fosgate RCAs i was planning on pluggin into the adaptor i linked. did you know of anything wrong with that or bad sound. just wanna make sure. my PC will be mounted in the dash and the amp will be in the back.
I have a 2000 Camaro with the 500w Monsoon as well, there are two ways to run external sources in our car, you can either replace it all (HU, Speakers, Amp), or you can use the entire existing setup, and buy an input converter from www.pie.net. It hooks to the back of the stock head unit where the factory cd changer normally would and it gives you RCA inputs into the head unit. You select the input by pressing your CD/AUX button on the head unit twice. The link to the GM adapter page is http://www.pie.net/aux_gm.htm, I recently purchased the GM9-AUX and the sound quality is excellent.
Originally Posted by Snootch
Hey how do those Peerless speakers sound? i have never heard of them but they look good quality. the price is much more reasonable then the kappa componets i was previously looking at.
Also, that sound deadining suff work well? i have noisy tires, noisy/ squeeky suspension, noisy exhaust, noisy supercharger etc and it would be nice to be nice and quiet inside the car.
Lastly, what do the EPX2 Signal Processor do?
very nice setup
That is an option..... But your still using the Monsoon..Originally Posted by RyanNCSU83
mid/high speakers such as a component system (mid+tweet seperate w/ outboard crossover) and coaxial car audio speakers have a 4 ohm voicecoil, that's not changeable. However subwoofers can come with more than one voicecoils which you can wire in paralell or series to get the impedance you need for your amplifier. Good car audio theory site:
If you want to just swap out the parts one at a time and not go mega-custom like Snootch, the monsoon can handle 4 ohm speakers, it just won't have the volume it did, then get amps that have both speaker level and line level and you can wire them up to the old amp plug and connect crossovers to the mids so the tweeters aren't connected to the HU anymore. Then when you install the PC, all you need to do is run the audio cables from the amps to the PC. That's pretty much what I did, and it sounded horrible with the new speakers, better with the new amps, and great with the PC.