Did you buy or make it? I am looking for one, I can build it, but I'd need to know what to go buy, and then where it goes. I really dont want to spend any more money on this carPC, the wife will kill me!Originally Posted by mutilator
Can we not just run a +12v line from the OPUS (i.e. hard drive power connector) straight to the amp? Or does that introduce noise issues or other problems?
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Did you buy or make it? I am looking for one, I can build it, but I'd need to know what to go buy, and then where it goes. I really dont want to spend any more money on this carPC, the wife will kill me!Originally Posted by mutilator
Today I stuffed some dolls full of dead rats I put in the blender. I'm wondering if maybe, there really is something wrong with me.
Well look at it like this. Your Opus ( I dont know Opus im using round figures) will put out a maximum of about 25 amps. A 400watt 12v amp will pull 33.3 amps (amps*volts=watts). This means when you pull that 33.3 amps through your poor Opus, you will immediately fry and or force it into protect mode, simple because it cannot provide that amount of wattage. I understand, based on your amount of posts, that you did not intend this however I am also answering to a similar post I saw earlier in the thread.Originally Posted by The Grinch
Now for running the Opus' ACC input directly off of a PSU's 12v rail would mean you would have to ground the Opus' -12v rail (ground) to the -12V (ground) connector of the amp, which could cause some problems for your 'conditioned' power outputs on your Opus. The rails then again may be isolated from eachother but it would be my best guess that it can't be healthy and I personally would never try it for various reasons (unesessary load on the Opus, your Opus' component end being grounded on the same circuit as your battery's neg. terminal, ect).
Just from what I have gatherd, this isn't such a simple concept for msot of us, so I will do my best to explain what it is exactly you are doing. From your Opus you are triggering a switch that is going to close the circuit (turn on) the ACC line from your ignition and allow it to reach your amp's ACC terminal. The reason it works is the Opus, when switched on, flips the 'switch' via one of its 12v outputs, and like i said allows the circuit between the amp and your ACC line to be complete, thus making sure the computer is one before the amp (eventhough it may seem they are switched at the same time, logistics will tell you that unless the Opus/computer gets power, the amp will not so it is chronoligically correct to say first Opus, second amp) Hopefully this helps, and if not then google for a site of online simple circuits and find a delay one, then just throw that between your 12v out from the opus and the relay.
Regards,
Kyle
So is there any agreence (is that a word) that the 30 amp relay will work ?
if so ..which configuration ?
While im not a very technical guy 0 it looks like you guys are relaying the opus - slowing it power up, where the issue lies in the amps turning on too quick ...so I would want to slow down the amps power up until windows is up and the OS takes control of the sound card.
any help would be appraciated as tommorow is dedicated "work on the car PC" day
2002 Suzuki Aerio Sedan ...NOT the stupid wagon
I am doing exactly what these pageshave listed and no pops
and a 30amp relay will work..
What they're saying is if you buy a standard auto-relay from PepBoys...etc.. it has 4 wires, Ground, +12V Constant, ACC(Switched), and +12V out..
So Ground - obvious
+12V Constant - 12V (yellow) wire from the PSU
ACC - any Switched +12V source
+12V out - to amp Remote(trigger)
done.. no pops amps dont turn on till PC initializes and turn off before PC shutsdown
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Thank you ! ..I'll be doing it tommorow
2002 Suzuki Aerio Sedan ...NOT the stupid wagon
I tried it, same noise.
Didn't make any sense to me anyway. The Opus turns on, puts power to the relay, which clicks on and then sends 12v to the amps remote correct. Well, there is no delay there. The Opus send 12v to the remote-on with or without the relay. The issue is: the soundard needs to be on before the Amp. Lets just say it takes 30 seconds (or so) for the pc to turn on. Then we need a 30+ second delay.
I've manually done this. Disconnected the remote wire from the amp, let the pc boot up, then reconnected the remote wire...no noise, no pop.
Furthermore: the pc needs to shut off BEFORE the amp, and I don't see how this can be solved.
The turn-on pop I think can be removed with this:http://www.davidnavone.com/pop_eliminators.html
Not the "N66", 2.5 seconds is not long enough. We'd need the "N66A", "The delay time of the N-66A is adjustable between 0 seconds and 30 seconds".
Anyone agree?
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as far as i know and have seen in many amp manuals the Amp remote only draws from 350 - 750 milliamps ???Originally Posted by kdunn926
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The schematic for the delay circuit is here:Originally Posted by MrPerfectionest
Schematics/Pin Outs/Diagrams
It's about half way down, posted by 'stimps'.
This thread hasn't been active in a while. Think I'll change that.
I've literally been looking into this issue for a few hours now and have not made a lot of progress. My situation is similar to Gene's except that I need a longer delay. As a Soundblaster Extigy user, I need to delay the amps turning on until Windows has initialized the soundcard (basically after startup). This is not simply a matter of waiting two seconds until power has been applied to the Extigy. When Windows initliazes the Extigy it causes the amps to pop. So basically I'm looking for something with more than a 30 second delay which puts David Navone's N-66A out.
Here's my some of my research:
http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/show...53&postcount=9
This makes use of a relay using a capacitor and resistor. In essence, this is what I'm looking for but it means playing with capacitors in order to get the correct time delay.
This brings me to the ELK-960 Delay Timer $22.99
Product ManualIt's also adjustable from 1 second to 60 minutes. Should be plenty of time.Code:* Trigger signal closes contacts for preset duration (1 sec to 60 min) then opens * SPDT relay rated @ 7A, 30VDC * Trigger voltage 4.5-27VDC 1.2mA * 12VDC or 24VDC setting Convert a momentary or continuous trigger signal into a timed output with the Delay Timer/Relay. Use the Delay Timer/Relay with standard PIR motion detectors to control lighting. Use with X10 Universal Module trigger inputs to control watering systems. The Delay Timer/Relay's timed off provides a fail safe off. It can also be effectively used as a door strike hold timer. The Delay Timer/Relay's pulse setting converts a continuous trigger signal into a pulsating ON/OFF signal. Ideal for flashing lights.
Here is an excerpt from the manual:
Ignore the 110v Power Strip and replace the 12V Power Supply with a 12VDC connection in the car (ie. battery). This device is designed for use in the home. With that said, by looking at the diagram this device effectively breaks the circuit going to the speaker while the delay is active. However, I need it to operate the REMOTE on the amp.
When the delay is complete a connection is made between the CONT and N/O ports. This is, I'm assuming, the equivalent to pins 30 & 86 on a relay as per this diagram from the12volt.com:
So if I am thinking of all this properly, in order for this connection to work, I would run the wire from the REMOTE on the amp to the CONN on this device and a jumper wire from the N/O to 12V+. This way when the delay is finished the connection is made supplying 12VDC+ to the REMOTE and turning on the amps.
Comments, suggestions, issues... Gimme some input on this idea because my brain is now hurting...
Derek
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