Results 1 to 8 of 8

Thread: VW Golf: Power cable from Battery to the Amp...

  1. #1
    Constant Bitrate SamDude's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    London (UK)
    Posts
    179

    VW Golf: Power cable from Battery to the Amp...

    Hey all,

    I've been looking at the 'route' I need to take getting the power cable from the battery to the boot.

    There doesn't seem to be an easy/accessible way to break through the engine bay into the body of the car.

    However, under the steering wheel, there are a row of power feeds connecting to various bits and pieces.

    Could I wire the power cable directly to this feed (with a fuse)? Or will it cause a problem? (If so, where/why?)

    Thanks in advance,
    Sam

  2. #2
    Constant Bitrate SamDude's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    London (UK)
    Posts
    179
    (Car is a VW Golf, 2000 Mk4)

  3. #3
    Maximum Bitrate VanMan69's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Alameda, CA
    Posts
    492
    Here's an easy way to get from the engine compartment to the cabin/trunk:

    http://www.toolking.com/dewalt/view.asp?ID=8240

    ...at least that's what I did (had to run 4GA).

    Whether or not you can connect to the terminals already there depends on what you're hooking up and what the rating is on the wires connecting the battery to the terminals.

    But really, drilling a little hole in the underside/wheel well into the trunk isn't that big a deal. And you can run the wire under the car, so you don't have to mess with putting it behind panels or carpet. If you just do a small hole under the carpet in the trunk, you won't even be able to tell.
    95 Chevy G20 Vroom Boom Room
    ...with a whole bunch of nifty ****... go check it out: VanDomain Page

  4. #4
    FLAC SnyperBob's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2001
    Location
    Illinois
    Posts
    1,162
    I'm not sure if this will work, but here's what I did...
    I ran the power wire all the way to the back of my car via going under my car and pretty much followed the frame back. Then I punched a hole in the back, brought the wire up, and have my inverter back there. I figured it was the easiest way to accomplish it, took the least amount of hacking to my car, and only took like 30 mins to run.

    On the other hand you have to make sure you have a wire that is capable of being run outside the car, and that handle water, rocks, dirt, etc...
    I don't know much about wires, but the one I have is like a 4 guage, rubber coated one. It's heavy duty, and my electrician buddy said it is rated for outside conditions, corrosion resistant, etc...

    It's lasted nearly two years without me having to touch it once. I'll be honest, I actually ghetto rigged it when I installed it. I only used those zip cord things to secure it to my frame. I should probably check it to make sure none of them broke, came loose, etc...
    But nonetheless it works great. Just make sure you have a cable.

  5. #5
    FLAC SnyperBob's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2001
    Location
    Illinois
    Posts
    1,162
    Quote Originally Posted by VanMan69
    Here's an easy way to get from the engine compartment to the cabin/trunk:

    http://www.toolking.com/dewalt/view.asp?ID=8240

    ...at least that's what I did (had to run 4GA).
    I just used a big drill bit to get through the underside of the trunk. They have metal drilling bits (carbide tips) that work well. It's pretty much the fastest method, and you won't have to tear apart your interior to run the line through the car.

    do it

  6. #6
    Maximum Bitrate VanMan69's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Alameda, CA
    Posts
    492
    Quote Originally Posted by SnyperBob
    On the other hand you have to make sure you have a wire that is capable of being run outside the car, and that handle water, rocks, dirt, etc...
    I don't know much about wires, but the one I have is like a 4 guage, rubber coated one. It's heavy duty, and my electrician buddy said it is rated for outside conditions, corrosion resistant, etc...
    So long as you put some split-loom cable covering and keep it away from the exhaust manifold (had mine a little too close and the split loom started to melt a bit), it should be alright.

    I'd recommend adding some split-loom to your 4GA... it will also help protect against friction/abrasion between the cable and the frame. You don't want it to rub through and short to the frame.
    95 Chevy G20 Vroom Boom Room
    ...with a whole bunch of nifty ****... go check it out: VanDomain Page

  7. #7
    FLAC ppgt94's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2001
    Location
    USA
    Posts
    1,352
    Quote Originally Posted by SamDude
    Hey all,

    I've been looking at the 'route' I need to take getting the power cable from the battery to the boot.

    There doesn't seem to be an easy/accessible way to break through the engine bay into the body of the car.

    However, under the steering wheel, there are a row of power feeds connecting to various bits and pieces.

    Could I wire the power cable directly to this feed (with a fuse)? Or will it cause a problem? (If so, where/why?)

    Thanks in advance,
    Sam

    I know exactly what you're talking about this. If your just using the power wire for your computer it will be just fine. It is even enough for a 150-200 watt amplifier. I screwed a 8 gauge wire onto the 30A terminal. It worked fine for about 2 years. I'm adding a amp for a subwoofer though so I ran a 4g wire directly from the battery terminal. Running the wire was easy. I found a spot that had a little rubber grommet plug. I took out the plug out and put the wire through.

  8. #8
    Low Bitrate lazarus's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
    Location
    Leeds uk
    Posts
    106
    I managed to run heavy duty 3 core mains flex on my old company golf (MK4 estate) from the battery to an inverter under the front passenger seat. from what i remember (i dont have the car ay more as i quit tha job) there is a bunble of cable that runs into an extruded gromet on the right hand side of the engine bay and about half way up the fire wall. its not easy to fit the cable through but it will go

Similar Threads

  1. MPJA - MECI ASTEC DC-DC Converter
    By Luc in forum General Hardware Discussion
    Replies: 39
    Last Post: 11-22-2004, 09:31 PM
  2. time to a dead car battery?
    By chuckctv in forum Newbie
    Replies: 8
    Last Post: 08-24-2004, 02:47 PM
  3. I need to some basic information about amps
    By Bust_A_Cap in forum Car Audio
    Replies: 21
    Last Post: 08-01-2004, 09:31 PM
  4. Sorting out power issues
    By MattW in forum Power Supplies
    Replies: 6
    Last Post: 07-16-2001, 03:41 PM
  5. Here's an alternative power source....
    By A Boy and his Miata in forum General Hardware Discussion
    Replies: 7
    Last Post: 11-21-2000, 11:44 AM

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •