Tube Subwoofers...

**Quattro** · 10-25-2004, 07:59 PM

actually to tell you the truth, I did test it with water, look at the third pic, there is a little water stain.

I know not a smart idea.

But to seal it compeletly I will use some caulk, just to be sure.

**Redeyez** · 10-25-2004, 08:29 PM

MAKE SURE U HAVE TONS OF SUPPORT!!!! my big brother's friend built a casing kinda like that, with partical board. it cracked then shattered into like 20 peices. Be warned

**Quattro** · 10-25-2004, 09:20 PM

Originally Posted by Redeyez

my big brother's friend built a casing kinda like that, with partical board.

Thats your problem right there, partical board. I didn't use that, I used mdf board, which is stronger and better suited for enclosure construction. Plus I think I have plenty layers of fiberglass, I don't think it's about to shatter anytime soon, atleast I hope not.

**MetalDwarf** · 10-26-2004, 07:42 PM

im a pro sound monkey

tub subs were big a couple years ago
primarily because you could build 4th/6th/8th order bandpass boxes easily and effectivly.
beuase you already have the tube you only need to cut the "caps" to the tube

so this reduced the labor involved in construction greatly.
as long as the math is right it will sound fine

the ideal box is a trapazoid, with no parrallel sides and no 90* angles,(eliminates standing waves) basically a ***** to build. the tube gets around this nicely. at least better then a square/rectangular box

**MetalDwarf** · 10-26-2004, 07:44 PM

MDF = pretty good

but you know your awesome when you use Baltic Birch

**Cris** · 10-26-2004, 07:51 PM

Originally Posted by MetalDwarf

im a pro sound monkey

tub subs were big a couple years ago
primarily because you could build 4th/6th/8th order bandpass boxes easily and effectivly.
beuase you already have the tube you only need to cut the "caps" to the tube

so this reduced the labor involved in construction greatly.
as long as the math is right it will sound fine

the ideal box is a trapazoid, with no parrallel sides and no 90* angles,(eliminates standing waves) basically a ***** to build. the tube gets around this nicely. at least better then a square/rectangular box

So you're saying , this trapezoidal box, would sound much nicer than a tube?
I have a tube in my trunk, and it sounds very nice.
And what's Baltic Birch?

**Quattro** · 10-26-2004, 08:00 PM

Yeah, baltic birch would be really good to use, but your price to build the enclosure triples.

**danon** · 10-26-2004, 11:28 PM

Originally Posted by Quattro-A4

actually to tell you the truth, I did test it with water, look at the third pic, there is a little water stain.

I know not a smart idea.

But to seal it compeletly I will use some caulk, just to be sure.

mdf bloat when in contact with water. even when dried afterward it does not retain its original size. how did you go on with it?

.

**Quattro** · 10-26-2004, 11:35 PM

The mdf board is not bloated or deformed in any way. There is just a little water stain. The board is still really strong, it doesn't appear to be weak in any way. So, I hope I don't have any problems with it.

What do you mean by 'how did you go on with it?'

**lawrence** · 10-27-2004, 12:24 AM

Originally Posted by MetalDwarf

im a pro sound monkey

tub subs were big a couple years ago
primarily because you could build 4th/6th/8th order bandpass boxes easily and effectivly.
beuase you already have the tube you only need to cut the "caps" to the tube

so this reduced the labor involved in construction greatly.
as long as the math is right it will sound fine

the ideal box is a trapazoid, with no parrallel sides and no 90* angles,(eliminates standing waves) basically a ***** to build. the tube gets around this nicely. at least better then a square/rectangular box

metal dwarf i am new to building sub boxes ,could you explain the differences in 4th/6th/8th order bandpass ?