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Thread: What's up with my BRAND NEW speakers??

  1. #11
    Maximum Bitrate brrman's Avatar
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    an amp at 50-100W/channel rms is fine for your speakers. Even a cheap one - you don't need anything monstrous or high end brand name. Hifonics makes a good amp in that range and at a good price.

    http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...724311982&rd=1
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  2. #12
    Low Bitrate Aksor's Avatar
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    From personal experience I know that most head units start to clip pretty badly at 3/4 volume. I actually tested a few using a test CD and monitoring the output with a scope.

    Each time the sine wave clips (flattens out) the speaker is actually receiving a constant voltage that turns the coil into a heater and blows your speaker.

  3. #13
    Raw Wave tbird2340's Avatar
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    So I should be getting a 4 channel amp right?

    And what about hooking it up?
    Current Vehicle: 2007 Dodge Nitro

    Second Vehicle: Sold it :( 2005 Dodge Ram 1500 Quad Cab

    First Vehicle: 2003 Ford Ranger

  4. #14
    Raw Wave tbird2340's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Aksor
    From personal experience I know that most head units start to clip pretty badly at 3/4 volume. I actually tested a few using a test CD and monitoring the output with a scope.

    Each time the sine wave clips (flattens out) the speaker is actually receiving a constant voltage that turns the coil into a heater and blows your speaker.

    So they could be blown already?
    Current Vehicle: 2007 Dodge Nitro

    Second Vehicle: Sold it :( 2005 Dodge Ram 1500 Quad Cab

    First Vehicle: 2003 Ford Ranger

  5. #15
    Maximum Bitrate Snootch's Avatar
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    You only need a 4-channel amp if being able to fade front/rear is important. If not, you can run all 4 speakers with a stereo (2-channel) amplifier. About buying amps... I've bought 5 amps used off Ebay, and havent had a problem. I would stick to proven amps (old-school fosgate, PPI or Orion) and only buy from people with a high feedback rating. Here's some good 4 and 2 channel 50 watt per channel RMS amps Ive found for you:
    http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...725114918&rd=1
    http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...725114956&rd=1
    http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...725499724&rd=1
    http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...725125537&rd=1
    http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...724789381&rd=1
    http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...725131200&rd=1
    http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...725261411&rd=1

    Good luck!
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  6. #16
    Raw Wave tbird2340's Avatar
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    So if I bought a 2 X 100 amp and I hooked up all 4 speakers to it would I essentialy be giving them only 25 W each?

    And should I be looking for a 4 ohm?
    Current Vehicle: 2007 Dodge Nitro

    Second Vehicle: Sold it :( 2005 Dodge Ram 1500 Quad Cab

    First Vehicle: 2003 Ford Ranger

  7. #17
    FLAC sdashiki's Avatar
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    Then you are taling bridging and OHM resistance. When it comes to the 4 speakers in yer car (8 for us audiophiles) DONT BRIDGE THEM. A 2 channel amp runs either 1 or 2 speekers, not 4. Yeah of course you can but for our purposes, I wouldnt. I wont get into Ohmage and all that crap but basically an amps # of channels shouldnt be exceeded unless it is said to be LOW OHM STABLE.

    I personally LOVE 5 channel amps when you dont want to be a $$$$ f*er and have 1 amp for every speaker and like 4 batteries to run it. For people who actually drive their cars to work, school, food etc, a competition sized audio system is very impractical. The basic rule of thumb IMO is that u buy a 4 channel amp to run your regular door speakers, and a 2 or 1 channel to run your 1 or 2 or even 3 or 4 subs. Subs run different than full range speakrs, and the OHM loads are much easier to understand.

    I love 5 channels like i said, Rockford made a couple and stopped. In fact its hard to find a 5 channel cuz I think like all $ making ventures, you spend more when U must buy 2 amps.

    I got a RF 5 channel 600watt. 200 for the subs (100 each bridged) and 75 RMS to the infinity reference components i got. Dont let people tell you, awwww man i got a 1000 watt amp yo, who cares. Blow your speakrs, or your ears and what will you have then?

    To answer yer question, almost all full range speakrs are 4 ohm. Finding an 8ohm might be tough. Run a 4 channel capable of doing AT LEAST the minimum RMS the speakers call for, and NOT MORE. More is not good, but niether is less, but less wont blow it. If you want subs, buy another mono or 2 channel to run it and if you are gonna bridge two, MAKE SURE those are 8ohm and not 4. UNLESS of course your amp is bridgeable to 2ohm, which costs $$$$ and makes a TON of heat. Stick with 4ohm stable.
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  8. #18
    Maximum Bitrate brrman's Avatar
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    The link I gave to the Hifonics is the same person I bought my Hifonics from (though mine was a higher end model). Good reputation and was quick to respond to emails.
    Car: 2000 Audi A4 Avant 1.8t
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  9. #19
    Raw Wave tbird2340's Avatar
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    OK.. That Hifonics one you pointed out...

    ZX4400-High Power
    4 x 55 Watts @ 4 Ohms
    4 x 110W @ 2 Ohms
    2 x 220W @ 4 Ohms

    So I would only be getting 44 X 55 Watts cuz I should run it at 4 ohms?
    Current Vehicle: 2007 Dodge Nitro

    Second Vehicle: Sold it :( 2005 Dodge Ram 1500 Quad Cab

    First Vehicle: 2003 Ford Ranger

  10. #20
    Whistle Tip pimpJ's Avatar
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    That is correct, and remember that's peak wattage, not RMS
    (it's still plenty for a non-show stereo)
    Quote Originally Posted by tbird2340
    OK.. That Hifonics one you pointed out...

    ZX4400-High Power
    4 x 55 Watts @ 4 Ohms
    4 x 110W @ 2 Ohms
    2 x 220W @ 4 Ohms

    So I would only be getting 44 X 55 Watts cuz I should run it at 4 ohms?
    I consider that our present sufferings are not worth comparing with the glory that will be revealed in us.

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