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Thread: MP3+ USB Optical Input

  1. #1
    Low Bitrate cletus323's Avatar
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    Question MP3+ USB Optical Input

    Can anybody tell me if the optical Input on the Sound Blaster MP3+ USB gets passed to the analog outputs?

    I am trying to find the best solution for my setup. I dont' really care about surround sound so that is not an issue. From what I have read I know the NX is an alternative, but it seems like a waste to pay more money for that and then only use the front channel outputs. Plus there have been alot of threads posted about issues with the NX and power requirements.

    The other thing is I would like to have a sound card with an ir remote so that I can use the PAC SWI-X with my steering wheel controls to control the volume via IR.

    If anybody has any other suggestions feel free. The optical input will be for an XM Direct Receiver with the optical out.

    I tried searching but the forum doesn't seem to like MP3+ and all I could find is that the extigy does not pass the optical input and neither do the older sound blaster cards.

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by cletus323
    I tried searching but the forum doesn't seem to like MP3+ and all I could find is that the extigy does not pass the optical input and neither do the older sound blaster cards.
    If I think I understand your situation correctly then I suggest the Extigy. I have a Toslink out of my XMPCR running into an Extigy and the connection to my car sound system is through the analog outputs. Works fine, including 4 channel upmixing (CMSS). I tried the same thing with an Audigy and it did not upmix the external inputs. I suppose most people using the Audigy are just running the same signal through front and rear speakers, for example.
    Where did you read the Extigy would not pass the optical input?

  3. #3
    Low Bitrate cletus323's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rjoek
    If I think I understand your situation correctly then I suggest the Extigy. I have a Toslink out of my XMPCR running into an Extigy and the connection to my car sound system is through the analog outputs. Works fine, including 4 channel upmixing (CMSS). I tried the same thing with an Audigy and it did not upmix the external inputs. I suppose most people using the Audigy are just running the same signal through front and rear speakers, for example.
    Where did you read the Extigy would not pass the optical input?
    haha, sorry! I searched again and have no Idea where I saw that, must have been confused.

    So the CMSS works with the optical in as well from the 2 channel XMPCR? That's good to hear, I saw that it only outputs 2 channel audio with the NX.

    2 more questions for you.... Does the extigy power on with the comptuer? And what did you use to power it? A molex connector to 12 volt from the ps?

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    Yeah, I tested the Audigy NX and found out it didn't upmix the external inputs (which is why I have always been so confused as to why people seem to advocate for the NX so much?? Seems like a deal breaker to me).
    Power is as you say: +12V molex to Extigy, powers on with my Opus. You could also take it off the ignition if power consumption is an issue but then you'd have the problem of losing the SB when cranking -- I found that this is OK but it doesn't *always* come back on with full functionality, and there may be other standby/hibernate issues that I haven't yet encountered. If taking power from the ignition you basically cause the SB to 'disconnect' from Windows, then reconnect when it comes back on. One other tip is to give the Extigy a dedicated USB port off the motherboard header. For whatever reason my CPU bogs down if I run the Extigy off a hub. Not noticeable when I run FrodoPlayer (not very processor intensive) but impossible to run Centrafuse w/ bluetooth audio connection. Hope this helps.

  5. #5
    Low Bitrate cletus323's Avatar
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    Exactly, I was thinking I was going to end up having to run stereo audio all the time by splitting the front outputs. I just think it would be dumb to have surround sound, then switch to xm and bam front channel only. I want it one way or the other.

    I'm looking to run the Extigy off of my powersupply. Do you have any idea if the M1-ATX would supply enough power on +12V that I would be ok running an EPIA M10000 and an extigy off of it? I'm not sure what the amp usage is for the EPIA or the Extigy. It says in the specs though that the M1-ATX will supply 2 amps on +12V.

    I plan on running frodoplayer, but thanks for the tip, I will use a dedicated usb port. I plan on using serial for XM and GPS anyways which just leaves the touchscreen(for now).

    Hey, have you tried using the remote to control frodoplayer to skip songs or anything like that? I'd be happy with just volume up/down and mute, but it'd be nice if i could do something useful with the rest of my steering wheel buttons as well.

    Quote Originally Posted by rjoek
    Yeah, I tested the Audigy NX and found out it didn't upmix the external inputs (which is why I have always been so confused as to why people seem to advocate for the NX so much?? Seems like a deal breaker to me).
    Power is as you say: +12V molex to Extigy, powers on with my Opus. You could also take it off the ignition if power consumption is an issue but then you'd have the problem of losing the SB when cranking -- I found that this is OK but it doesn't *always* come back on with full functionality, and there may be other standby/hibernate issues that I haven't yet encountered. If taking power from the ignition you basically cause the SB to 'disconnect' from Windows, then reconnect when it comes back on. One other tip is to give the Extigy a dedicated USB port off the motherboard header. For whatever reason my CPU bogs down if I run the Extigy off a hub. Not noticeable when I run FrodoPlayer (not very processor intensive) but impossible to run Centrafuse w/ bluetooth audio connection. Hope this helps.

  6. #6
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    Haven't tested the M1, but my Opus is rated 2.5A on the +12V and I'm running an M6000, Extigy, and Xenarc 7" TSV off of that. No problems there at all. So you might be OK. Worst case you could run your screen or the Extigy off the ignition. I *have* been having problems with the +5V of late, with a powered USB hub, GPS, Bluetooth, XMPCR, and PowerMate. The serial GPS is therefore a really good idea. I guess the moral of the story is that 90W is pretty tight -- not so much in terms of wattage, but current. If it's evenly distributed, though, you should be fine.
    Haven't really used the remote -- just my touchscreen. But there are plenty of folks doing that here (specifically with steering wheel buttons, which I do not have), I'm sure you could find something useful on this.

  7. #7
    Low Bitrate cletus323's Avatar
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    Thanks again for all the help!

    I forgot about the LCD running off of 12V I looked up the specs on the EPIA M though and it seems like from the testing it is usually drawing about 0.237A(+12V) on average. From what I have read the Lilliput doesn't draw a whole lot of current (0.75A if I converted it right).

    I wish I knew what the exact draw is of the extigy though. It'd be nice to know if I can stick with the M1-ATX or if I should go for the OPUS 90W for the extra 0.5A safety.

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