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Thread: mid-speaker placement

  1. #1
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    mid-speaker placement and Soundstream/Polk advice

    Would it be a good idea to get Mid-Range/Mid-Bass speakers for the rear deck of my 01 Mitsu Mirage and 3 way speakers in front if I'll be running 2 12" subs in the rear, or should I just go with the 3 way speakers throughout the car and the 2 12" subs? Oh, this is the setup I was looking at:

    item #
    3677805 Polk Audio DB525 5.25" 2-Way Coaxial Speaker
    3678575 Polk Audio DB690 6" x 9" 3-Way Coaxial Speakers
    4173793 Soundstream XTA360.4
    4197573 Polk DB124 12" 4-Ohm Car Subwoofer X2

    I've had a chance to hear the Polk speakers and compared to everything at my Fry's they were the best (Damn my friend for having the same taste in audio, now my speakers will be identical to hers and we're probably gonna end up with the same HU too..). I was wondering if anyone's had the chance to hear the Plk 12" 4-ohm subs and the Soundstream XTA.

    Has anyone heard better? For $89/pair for the 5.25" and $129/pair for the 6X9", they sound like an excellent deal to me....no pun intended. The Soundstream should land me around $149 and the 2 polk subs (keeping with the Polk theme) should run $187, bringing the total to around $550, not including HU. My ultimate goal is to keep the speakers in the $550 or less range (that means amp, 2 subs and the speakers). Does this sound like a good deal? I'm also not all that technically inclined (translation: I don't have time to rip my car apart and fiddle, especially since I don't know jack about cars and twitch at the thought of having to play with/disconnect or otherwise touch the car battery), so I'm thinking of having them install all the stuff, which runs about $50 ea, so that tacks on an extra $100/$200 for install.

    I'm also looking to attach my 600mhz via board to the HU/amp and play my harddrive from there too. To me it sounds like a huge power load...would it be recommendable to get a 2nd battery too? Remember, I'd like to keep everything under $550 for the speaker/amp and the less I have to pay on install, the better. I also need a fully functional, drivable car, so if I can rip it apart and still drive it while installing the stuff, that's an idea.

    Good system? POS? Should I take a couple days off and wire the thing myself? Please give me advice!

  2. #2
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    if you run the mids in the back along with 2 12's you will have a focked sound stage - but if you don't care about your sound stage and just want volume - go for it....

    Honnestly - I would run a set of seperates - put the mids in the doors in the factory locations and put the tweets in the a-pillars...but then again, I'm more concerned with SQ than pure volume now-a-days...lol

    what youa re looking at looks to be decent quality stuff....but Fry's in general scares me with come of the product they carry as far as car audio......so don't limit yourself to just fry's

    if you are concerned with staying in that price range, honnestly, to me - they are all about the same....

    =]

    as far as the power load - what size is your factory alternator?

    with suck low wattage requirememnts as are on those speakers that you mentioned I don't see a problem....might upgrade to a yellow or a red top battery when you do the system and go from there!
    Jan Bennett
    FS: VW MKIV Bezel for 8" Lilliput - 95% Finished

    Please post on the forums! Chances are, someone else has or will have the same questions as you!

  3. #3
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    I prefer midbass for rearfill rather than fullrange. but others prefer midrange, highs, everything from all round.

    if you are concerned for pure sound quality, gti has got it about right. best idea is to find a 6.5 inch set thats got plenty solid midbass and just open up the rear deck to let all that nice bass into the cabin.

    if you are doing this simply because you decided you have to use every speaker hole the carmaker provided and oh by the way, full range or midbass, maybe its best to reconsider not taking them out fully!

    if you belong to the camp that jsut cant get away from rearfill, midbasses in the back would be a good stepping stone to no rears.

    aaaaaand, if you like rearfill, enought to always run it, then go for the 3 ways, and expect the wrath from every punk who heard an SQhead say they dont run rear speakers. ignore them. different strokes for different folks, right?

    now, as far as what *I* would do if I were in your specific shoes with what youve got going at this time. ditch the 6x9's, ditch the 5's. take that sum total chunk of money, should be higher than you were previously willing to spend on a set of speakers, and drop that on a 6.5 inch component set known for midbass performance. none of this infinity reference or kappa, none of this cdt classic series no midbass weak hollow sounding components, a set known for strong midbass. JL xr's, or VR's for a low budget. rockford fanatic series, earthquake, adire koda if you can get your hands on a set, a set thats nice and midbassy. then run just those up front and the subwoofers. cleaner, clearer sound theoretically, just as loud, doesnt change your budget, and your bass performance is unchanged.

    But you get no rearfill, which may be important for you. this might not be the way for you if you insist on rearfill.

  4. #4
    Super Moderator. If my typing sucks it's probably because I'm driving.... turbocad6's Avatar
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    I second white rabbits idea of getting the best front stage you can afford & skip the rears entirely, then just the 12's. If you really want to get serious, forget everything else including the subs for now, get a real kick *** set of seperates powered by a high end amp & put some money into improving the actual door installation, mount speaker on a solid baffle(wood), dynamat the door cavitys & inner skin, seal & her up & enjoy a great front stage, everything else, including the subs are secondary, but this also depends on your desired end result, you may not be looking for awsome & good may be good enough.............how good do you want it?

  5. #5
    Constant Bitrate mbuchman's Avatar
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    Their was just a RE group buy, but I think its over now... you could have gotten a pretty good deal on some comps (125 for their "RE" line, which is their intro line). Their RE line subs were only 46 for the 12s, and those prices are after shipping. I am sure that you will be happy with the Polk stuff though.

    I would say forget the rears as well. The only reason I will have them in my car is because the rear channel will be used for playstation sound or something like that, but not necessarily on everyday.

    As for Polk, they are pretty good people. I had a problem with one of my bookshelf speakers (my fault), and they replaced the woofer for free. I just had to pay to ship it to them, but they covered the replacement cost and the shipping back to me cost.

    And I would do the wireing yourself IF you know what you are doing. Otherwise, let them do it.

    Matt

    Edit: Forgot to mention... my brother only has front speakers in his car, and 2 12s in the trunk, and it sounds nice. Biggest mistake most people make is to just upgrade the 6x9s in the back, and nothing else. At least you know better than that though!

  6. #6
    MySQL Error scott_fx's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Red GTi VR6
    if you run the mids in the back along with 2 12's you will have a focked sound stage -

    i agree

    personally i'd spend some extra on front components, skimp on the rear speakers. go with one sub (put that money toward the componnets) and power the components from the amp.

    maybe something like this:

    cdt 2way components (www.thezeb.com) $150
    Soundstream XTA360.4 $150
    pioneer premier 2000spl 12" sub (amazing sub for the price) $130 (ebay)
    rear 2 way coaxial $50
    New System in progress:
    M10k
    Phaze TD1500 ~> Dynaudio MD130
    Phaze TD1500 ~> Seas g18rnx/p
    Zapco Ref 500.1 ~ 12" tc-9
    Behringer DCX2496 ~ Envision Electronics psu
    Transflective Xenarc

    My Car Pc Install
    My Boat Pc worklog

  7. #7
    Maximum Bitrate TimmyM's Avatar
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    You might check eBay, some of those speakers that white rabbit mentioned are there and seem quite reasonable.

  8. #8
    Constant Bitrate mbuchman's Avatar
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    I dont know if I want my CDTs anymore... not even installed yet, and seems like everyone has them! They will just be rear as mentioned above though, so they should be fine

    Unless you are going to be deadening and all of that, then I see nothing wrong with going Polk. If you have heard them already, and like them, then may as well stick with them in my opinion.

    Matt

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