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Thread: Home speakers in the car

  1. #21
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    I'm sorry to bring this back from the dead but I have some observations.

    Quote Originally Posted by scott_fx
    I agree with Red, but watch out because car speakers are built with the harsh automotive environment in mind. (open your door panel after a rainy day, you will probably find moisture/condensation in there)
    If you look at most well built home or car audio speakers they are identical (except impedance). No speaker likes to be in the car, and when you pull out the factory ones they are just non treated paper cones like any non well built one.

    Quote Originally Posted by TimW
    Not only that, but "good" home audio speakers require tuned cabinets
    The home audio sector also has a bunch of kooks out there that think you have to change the resonance of the amplifier casing to achieve a real "true" sound, the fact is, every speaker has a "right" box size but most of the time the tuning is for the woofer/subwoofer not the mids.

    Quote Originally Posted by TimW
    And on top of all this, car audio speakers, are cheaper than home audio
    this is true in most cases


    Red clearly gets it listen to her not me

  2. #22
    Newbie DTACK's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by john_draws
    I know I will need more power as the speakers are most likely 8 ohm. Now the
    speakers are obviousily built for the encloser. From what I understand this speaker has like five different chambers with different materials in each (foam.ect).

    So i am asuming i wouldnt mount it free air because it woul probably sound like ****.

    So I was thinkin i would just fiberglass a box or pod around the speaker.

    Do you think I should make the fiberglass encloser as close to the cubic space volume as the origanal.

    Here is a link to the actual drivers of my speakers on ebay.

    http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...773260181&rd=1
    Well in many cases the enclosure in a car can be smaller then for home use cuz you get "cabin gain" in a car...
    This means that your bass response will be extended cuz of the "room" your enclosure its in! (you actually could compare the combination enclosure-car to a bandpass enclosure, tuned to a certain frequency )

    With the freeware prog WinISD you can give the parameters in from ur drivers and see the response for yourself, ect...

    With a little experimenting you will really get some SQ out of ur car with them KEF's

  3. #23
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    Old topic, new question.

    I have 2 pr of MTX AAL2230B'S home speakers. I heard the 12" woofers were the same as the MTX terminators. True?

    THere 4ohm speakers so I assume they could be used in the car?....thx Jack

  4. #24
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    on a semi related note,
    While working at a custom home theater co. some time ago, We had a call from a previous customer saying that her basement had flooded and that all her equipment was ruined. When we got there we were looking at about 2-3 feet of water. Two Niles amps were fully submerged in water, after the damage was assessed and the water was pumped we had to go back in to redo the whole jobsite. What amazed me though was that the niles amps were still on and fully functional so much for home audio gear not working in harsh enviornments

  5. #25
    Low Bitrate jasonsjwou's Avatar
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    Enclosures are needed for BOTH car and home environment. The Physics requires it. Usually home speakers are better at this because it is easier to make a air tight box.

    It's the physics. To produce bass to low-midrange sound, it needs to cancel the out of phase soundwaves coming from the back of the speaker cones. Enclosures are there to capture and cancel those.

    So no matter what the car speaker manufacturer does (or says) they ALL NEED some form of enclosures. Doors, trunks, kickpanels, whatever. Sometimes its amazing how people forms an opinion based on marketing phrase, rather than research and study.

    As for resiliance of the speakers in harsh environment, there are NOT A SINGLE difference between home speakers and car speakers. It's the surround (rubber or foam) that is the only part that has time dependent life in speakers. These wear out - even for those $100,000 goldmund speakers.

    The difference tho, is the Ohm rating of car audio. Most home speakers (the driver, cone, the thing that shakes etc) have Ohm rating all over the place, because it is expected that the speaker system designer would put a dedicated crossover to it, so it can have an "average" loading to the amp of somewhere between 6-8ohms. Well yeah of course these "resistance" is frequency dependent so they call it Impedence, but the Nominal Impedence is somewhere between 6-8 ohms most of the time.

    Most car speakers are designed to have 4 ohm resistance, because the relatively lower voltage they need to work with. In Home audio amp you can increase the rail voltage to get more output, but in car audio amp your maximum rail voltage is already decided for you.

    So you might have a problem with the "absolute maximum SPL" but then again the only speaker that needs real power is your subs.

    Tweeters, Even when they are driven so hard that your ears are bleeding, would consume maximum 5 watts if driven directly without crossovers.

    So, as long as you put subs with dual voice coil (or something that you can configure it as 4 or 2 ohm speakers) and use electronic crossover to separate the subs from mid+tweets, then you should be fine with using home audio stuff in cars. Sound tuning, with EQ and XOVER, poses more problem than mere "selection" of drivers.

    There are not a whole lot of differene between home speakers and car speakers in terms of electronics and drivers. The acoustic environment and the way you work with that environment is the key. But then again this is true for all speakers, home, studio, theaters, cars, boats anywhere.

  6. #26
    Newbie Pb2theMax's Avatar
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    I'm using Home speakers in my Tacoma with excellent results. Dayton Audio RS180 7" mids and B&G Neo8 ribbon tweeters. Check my CarDomain for pics and info. http://www.cardomain.com/ride/832238
    2005 Tacoma (stock stereo for now)
    http://www.cardomain.com/ride/832238

  7. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pb2theMax View Post
    I'm using Home speakers in my Tacoma with excellent results. Dayton Audio RS180 7" mids and B&G Neo8 ribbon tweeters. Check my CarDomain for pics and info. http://www.cardomain.com/ride/832238
    Nice

  8. #28
    Low Bitrate jasonsjwou's Avatar
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    The Sound Quality of the Dayton Audio stuff is usually double its $$$ value. Really good dollar-per-performance stuff. I'd get those over Focal/ScanSpeak any time, especially in Car Audio.

    But then again, if you listen to ScanSpeak Revealator series, They'll open up your ears.

  9. #29
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    Home Speaker

    Guyz

    i have a home speaker that has a 6 ohm's which i like to put it in my car would be alright to put a 4 ohms impedance Amplifier to drive the speaker's

    this is the spec's of my speaker
    Sony HCD VX8
    RMS 200w + 200w
    PMPO 3400 watts
    Model Speaker: SS-VX8


  10. #30
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    the amplifier will not put out it's rated power since you will be showing it a 6 ohm load instead of a 4 ohm load.

    Looks like it's a DVC sub, so the amplifier would probably have to be able to carry a 3 ohm load on top of that.
    Jan Bennett
    FS: VW MKIV Bezel for 8" Lilliput - 95% Finished

    Please post on the forums! Chances are, someone else has or will have the same questions as you!

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