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Thread: Powering AMP and CarPC

  1. #1
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    Powering AMP and CarPC

    Hi,

    I am about to install an amp in my car but I am not certain which is the best way to power the thing.
    I know I need to have a common ground for my pc and the amp so that I get a minimum of noise but how about the +12V feed from the car-bat.
    The amp is a 4-channel(4*80W)...
    The car pc via M10000 with 60W regulated PS(only have 2.5HD + some usb-devices)...

    Shold I run a fused line from the car-bat to a distribution-block and feed the pc and the amp from that
    or should I use 2 different +12V-lines with separate fuses?

    Would be interesting to know the pros/cons(if there are any using the above methods)

    /L-O

  2. #2
    I'm sorry, and you are....? frodobaggins's Avatar
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    I'd run a 4 gauge wire to a block and split from that.
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  3. #3
    Newbie pROJEKT vw zWO's Avatar
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    yup frodo's ryt u could power the pc and the amp from a 4 guage cable but if u get voltage spikes u could use a Helix Power capacitor to balance things out. The remote lead of ur amp could cum 4rm the yellow 12v lead of 1 of ur hard drive power leads 4rm the power supply, it usually does it 4 me
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  4. #4
    Tainted Love Cris's Avatar
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    I have a power distribuitor in the back for the Opus and an amp for the front speakers, using a 8 .ga wire. Ofcourse that amp is 2x60W.

  5. #5
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    Thanks guys!

    I think I will go for the distr-block option then...

  6. #6
    Newbie pROJEKT vw zWO's Avatar
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    yup cool but just check if ur gettin voltage spikes(when the bass hits or wen u start ur car) b4 u blow sumthin. im sure itl b cool
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  7. #7
    Low Bitrate M11VNY's Avatar
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    yep id agree
    use a 4 gauge wire to a block and split from that.

    But.....Depends on what kind of setup you will go for in the future.

    If you want to put some decent subs which need more than 500w RMS to power them then you should use 4 gauge wire, if not then 8 gauge will prob be fine for a small 4 channel amp and pc.

    If you did want to upgrade ure system you could but a charging relay at the front and a separate battery in the boot to power pc and amp, this way you can run the system with the car off and no worries that the car won't start up after as your front battery won't be used.
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  8. #8
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    You will probably be drawing at max 4x80 = 320W x 2 + 60W = 800W/13.8V = ~60A peak current draw.

    4GA handles 100-125A safely at 13-19ft cable length, so you should be fine with 4GA split out to 8GA as 8GA can handle 100-125A safely at 0-10ft cable length

    Better to overestimate your power needs than underestimate and create safety and unsatisfactory operational issues.

    If you are going to add a sub amp in the future, you might want to consider going with a 2GA or 1/0 GA instead.

  9. #9
    Newbie pROJEKT vw zWO's Avatar
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    Iv had a problem with my system using a Helix monoblock powering 3 x 12" Helix subs & a 4 chanel helix subs running my splits but iv had probs when my car was idling the battery used 2 go flat while playing music. Iv run )guage wire throughout & 4guage to all devices
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  10. #10
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    ghetto internet talk yo!

    lol

    disto block is your best bet - it will make things a lot easier....

    you can do what I did - which was to run your single power line from the battery - fused within 18 inches of the positive terminal of course, to a distrobution block that has fusing as well....that way you have double protection, which would be a good idea to do anyways. I have a 300 amp fuse up front, then a 20 amp fuse at the disto block for teh computer and 2 80amp fuses for the amplifiers.
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