One point, have you upgraded the car shell ground to the battery negative, sometimes you can run a 4Ga ground to a good point on the body, but the body is only connected via old 10 or 12 guage to the battery negative
4 gauge is definatly enough in this situation. Theres nothing wrong with looking at the fuses to see how much something could draw, its not going to tell you how much something will draw but its going to give you a maximum.Originally Posted by Stonewall78
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One point, have you upgraded the car shell ground to the battery negative, sometimes you can run a 4Ga ground to a good point on the body, but the body is only connected via old 10 or 12 guage to the battery negative
Lilliput 8" Touchscreen LCD
VIA EPIA MII-12000
60GB 3.5" Hard Drive 5400
512MB DDR PC2700
DVD Drive
802.11G Internal Wireless Card - External 5db Antenna
100m USB Bluetooth Adapter
Nokia N70 Phone
GPS USB Receiver
Centrafuse 1.6
Thats the problem right there, strange nobody reacted to this.Originally Posted by sansoo24
The ground must be metal to metal, not metal to paint![]()
1984 BMW 323i (E30)
[==========] 90%
EPIA MII10000
256MB RAM
40GB 2,5" HD
Lilliput 7" TS
Hacked Travla C134
Haicom CF GPS
Thanks a lot everybody who tried to help. Beleive it or not i tried almost every suggestion and nothing would get this thing to work. So i had to take it to a place that fixes and tests amps in my area and spend 50 bucks to have it tested and another 175 to get it repaired since its out of warranty. Sucks a phat one but even with the added cost i paid well under retail.
Thanks again for all the help.
Most amps will now go into protect mode if you do not have your ohms correct...make sure that this is the case...the other thing is that you could have a bad speaker somewhere...try them all out at a very low gain individualy and see if that works.
Your amp going into protect has nothing to do with power connections. So stop looking there.
The protect circut protects the speaker outputs. You are having issues on the speaker end.
This is typically due to a speaker / amp mismatch. or a blown sub.
You need to know what ohm load your sub runs at. Single 1, 2, or 4 ohms.
Dual 1, 2, or 4 ohms.
Then you need to know what ohm load the amp is stable at. Most amps say if they are 2 ohm stable will go into protect if connected to a sub wired at 1 ohm. Competition amps are better at handleing reduced output loads but even there many will go into protect if pushed hard enough.
My gut feeling is that your 6 channel is no more than 2 ohm stable and your sub is wired to a 1 ohm load. Hence the amp goes into protect. You use a ohm meter and measure across your speaker leads while disconnect from the amp. THis will verify things.
hey everybody in here....my JL amp has the ohms light on....any body has a clue about what the problem is???
Xenia & Isabelle, totally in love!
'T SQiekenkot: VOLVO 740GL 2.3
CarPC: none at the moment
CLARION HX-D2
CLARION APA4300HX => Fountek NeoCd1.0 + TB W4-1337SD
CLARION APA4300HX => CSS Trio8
CLARION APA2100 => Dayton IB385-8
ehm..... He did by now![]()
Xenia & Isabelle, totally in love!
'T SQiekenkot: VOLVO 740GL 2.3
CarPC: none at the moment
CLARION HX-D2
CLARION APA4300HX => Fountek NeoCd1.0 + TB W4-1337SD
CLARION APA4300HX => CSS Trio8
CLARION APA2100 => Dayton IB385-8
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