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Thread: Car speakers = 8 ohms? Weird

  1. #1
    Maximum Bitrate CavityCr33p's Avatar
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    Car speakers = 8 ohms? Weird

    I thought most car speakers were rated at 4 ohms, my factory 6x9's (delco's) are rated at 8 ohms a piece.

    Is this going to cause problems?

    I got a small 2 channel amp, it only had R + and - and L + and -. I have 4 speakers in my car and im kind of curious how to wire this.

    If I combine the front right and rear right together, and the front left and rear left together, would this work?
    2000 Sunfire build 100%, or is it ever really 100%?

  2. #2
    Variable Bitrate Saab9-5's Avatar
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    8 ohms is a normal rating for speakers. Are all 4 of your speakers rated the same? If so, then you can wire them up in parallel - as opposed to series - to then connect to your amp. But in doing so, you won't have any fader control - just balance.

  3. #3
    Constant Bitrate mbuchman's Avatar
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    Wireing the front and back in parallel should be okay IF the fronts are also 8 ohm. If they are only 4 ohm speakers in the front, then you would get a load of 2.67 ohms, which could hurt your amp. But who would want to wire their front and back speakers together? Then you cant control the fade or anything.

    So if you are going to do anything, and dont want to buy a lot of stuff, just forget about the rear channel, as a lot of people on here say to do, and only power the fronts. If you used the amp just for the back speakers, it would work, but you would probably only get about half of the rated power, which is about a 3dB loss (the smallest noticeable loss).

    Seems to me that by just adding an amp though to an existing system, you run the chance of blowing speakers. Why not just get some cheap 20-50 dollar speakers for your doors? I think you would be impressed.

    Matt

  4. #4
    Maximum Bitrate CavityCr33p's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mbuchman
    Wireing the front and back in parallel should be okay IF the fronts are also 8 ohm. If they are only 4 ohm speakers in the front, then you would get a load of 2.67 ohms, which could hurt your amp. But who would want to wire their front and back speakers together? Then you cant control the fade or anything.

    So if you are going to do anything, and dont want to buy a lot of stuff, just forget about the rear channel, as a lot of people on here say to do, and only power the fronts. If you used the amp just for the back speakers, it would work, but you would probably only get about half of the rated power, which is about a 3dB loss (the smallest noticeable loss).

    Seems to me that by just adding an amp though to an existing system, you run the chance of blowing speakers. Why not just get some cheap 20-50 dollar speakers for your doors? I think you would be impressed.

    Matt
    Not sure If I understand where you are getting at, but I do have speakers in my doors, not sure the ohms rating, but Im gonna go ahead and assume 8 ohms since they are factory just like the delco 6x9's. Anybody wanna explain a bit more on parellel wiring? I wont be too upset to loose the Fade option, but it would be nice to keep.
    2000 Sunfire build 100%, or is it ever really 100%?

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    Maximum Bitrate CavityCr33p's Avatar
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    Here is the description that was in the ebay auction. Its a Pioneer GM-X332

    This two-channel amplifier has a power output of 35Wx2 RMS @ 4ohms and 100Wx1 RMS @ 4ohms. Frequency response is 20-20000 Hz with a 0.08% THD. It has a non-variable HPF and LPF with gain and base boost adjustment. The amp has provisions for RCA and speaker level inputs. The speaker level input has an output allowing additional speakers to be added to a stock system.
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  6. #6
    Variable Bitrate Saab9-5's Avatar
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    Parallel wiring is where the + from the front speaker and the + from the rear speaker are connected together and then to the amp's + connector. Then the - from the front speaker and the - from the rear speaker are connected together and then to the amp's - connector.

    Series wiring is where the + from the front speaker is connected to the - of the rear speaker. The - from the front speaker is connected to the - on the amp. The + from the rear speaker is connected to the + on the amp.

  7. #7
    Maximum Bitrate CavityCr33p's Avatar
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    Okay, I was gonna hook it up parallel, so I guess I was correct. BTW, here is a cleaner link to the amp, and its specs are a bit dif than what the guy posted.

    http://www.emrkt.com/search/bot_inde...eerGM-X332.asp
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  8. #8
    Registered User Dudes99's Avatar
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    Couple of options:

    Do what SAAB said in post #2.

    Get an additional 2 channel amp.

    I would personally power the rear speakers with this amp, but I would also get a set of decent 4 ohm 6X9's.

  9. #9
    Constant Bitrate mbuchman's Avatar
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    You would be getting somewhere around 17.5W RMS to each speaker if you just hooked up the rears. I assume you are adding the amp so that you dont need a head unit anymore? If so, please consider new speakers. The extra power will probably blow the ones you have, and that would be unfortunate.

    I really dont know what you are going for, so I cant really help anymore. Good luck.

    Matt

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