Optima Battery survive crank

**Sonicxtacy02** · 04-13-2005, 09:09 AM

Originally Posted by khemical

Red = bad, just stick to Blue/Yellow tops (yellow being the more common for car audio, blue has more crank amps)

Um blue is used in marine applications, red is the battery with the cranking amps. I think you are confused. I've never seen somenoe with an optima BLUE top in the car.

**michaelrj9** · 04-13-2005, 09:10 AM

Originally Posted by Dudes99

Michael, I would thnk that the 400 watt inv would work for that system wouldn't it? Have you tried that set up?

hi,
yes i have THE 400 WATT INV in the car now but like i said it will not survive being shut off (sometimes) it survives crank everytime but once maybe 1 out of 7 times when i shut the car off it imediatly shuts down for a second just enough time to reboot the PC not letting the CarPC Pro v.2.4 shut down unit do its job.

any ideas?

Thanks

**Dudes99** · 04-13-2005, 12:13 PM

Hmmmm, considering that maybe you ought to look into that tank circuit. Sorry I couldn't help.

I personally am looking into the second battery option (not just for the PC though).

**migel628** · 04-13-2005, 01:01 PM

Given the yellow vs red discussion, is yellow really good for car audio as well as the car pc? I was under the impression that the red top was better for this app. Just curious...

**khemical** · 04-13-2005, 02:13 PM

Originally Posted by Sonicxtacy02

Um blue is used in marine applications, red is the battery with the cranking amps. I think you are confused. I've never seen somenoe with an optima BLUE top in the car.

Your right. I havent been looking for batteries for a while and got some details crossed. The red-tops are not deep-cycle, but have more CCA. The yellow-tops are deep-cycle, but don't have as many CCA. (And I use blue tops too, boats need subwoofers too

) So, for the OP, if you are playing your system while the car is off for extended periods of time, you probably would want to get a yellow top under the hood. Personally, i would go with a dual battery setup (two yellows, or OEM(hood)/yellow(back) or red(hood)/back).

Depending on your setup (comp and audio), you may be tolling your car more than you think. Maybe if you post your "stereo system" specs, and the amperage of that invertor, someone could point you in the direction you should be headed for clean system. Something you could do to help, rather cheaply at that, is the "Big 3" (replacing the wires from alt->battery, battery->fusebox, battery->good ground with low gauge (4-8) wire). Oh and how is your invertor connected? straight to battery (assuming this)? what gauge wire?

**michaelrj9** · 04-13-2005, 04:58 PM

Originally Posted by khemical

Depending on your setup (comp and audio), you may be tolling your car more than you think. Maybe if you post your "stereo system" specs, and the amperage of that invertor, someone could point you in the direction you should be headed for clean system. Something you could do to help, rather cheaply at that, is the "Big 3" (replacing the wires from alt->battery, battery->fusebox, battery->good ground with low gauge (4-8) wire). Oh and how is your invertor connected? straight to battery (assuming this)? what gauge wire?

edit:

computer & audio specs are below.

I just put in a 400 watt cobra inverter which will survive crank...
BUT maybe 1 out of 7 times when I shut the car off the inverter shuts down for a second just enough to reboot the PC.

Any reason why this might happen?

The inverter is conected straight to the battery (not switched)

on the cobra inverter I had a volt meter on it with the car off and inverter off (just to test voltage in trunk from battery in front) it was about 12.5v. and with the inverter and pc running with the car off it was about 11.50v with the car started with inverter and pc running it was about 13.5v.

that is with using only 14 ga power wire from battery to trunk.
I think it might be time to upgrade wire to 8 ga or 6 ga?

could I use the 1/0 power cable running to my amps?
or am I going to have problems using the same wire?
1/0 cable is for 1 Orion 2500d amp pushing 2 orion 12" h2 subs. and 1 Orion 800x4 amp for the 2 sets of orion P-SERIES components.
would the 1/0 cable be able to handle the extra wattage from the inverter and PC?

Thanks for all your help

using a shuttle pc amd 2400 thoroughbred chip
1 usb port being used.
2 serial ports being used
512 ram
WD 250 GB Hard Drive

**khemical** · 04-13-2005, 06:44 PM

I would run a new 8 gauge wire off the battery - that way it is a seperate fused connection for your computer, especially with that beefy amd system.

You aren't playing Need For Speed at red lights, are you?