Thread: setting up a new sound system

first, how do you intend to wire them?
how many do you have?
as for the cap, you dont need it but it will have better bass response.

i was just going to use normal speaker wire, secondle just one sub, two tweeters and two 16cm woofers in total thata it, its only a little pickup ute.
as for the electrical wiring i will be fine, i have put many systems in cars before, just i have never selected my own components so i dont know what amp i need or what speakers are best for my car, i am just guessing here and as for the head unit, it has aux in and looks kinda cool

by wire them i mean connect to each compnonet, i presume ule do hu > components & hu > amp > sub?
what rating is the amp and the sub?

oh, sorry, my mistake...

i am wiring the tweeters straight from the head unit from the front channel, the 2 woofers from the amp's front channels (l&r) and the sub will recieve the rear channels bridged

amplifier:

Maximum Power Output 400W
• Continuous Average Power Output 200W
(50W x 4 Into 4-Ohms 20Hz-20kHz)
• Typical 2-Ohm Stereo 100W x 4
• Switchable Bass Boost Control 0dB/6dB/12dB

• Adjustable 50Hz-250Hz High/Low Pass
Crossover
• 4/3/2ch bridgeable mode operation
• Speaker Level Inputs


subwoofer:

• Injected Polypropylene Titanium Coated Cone
• Single 50 m/m heat resistant Voice Coil
• Rear-Vented Pole Piece
• Foam Rubber Surround
• Large 30 oz Strontium Ferrite Magnet
• Chromed Metal Basket
• Suitable for sealed and vented Installation
• 600W Music Peak Power


components:
• 16cm Glass-Fibre Cone Woofer with Rubber Surround
• Powerful Strontium Magnet for Dynamic Bass Response
• 2cm Pure Silk Dome Tweeter with Dual-Neodymium Magnet
• 2-Way Mounting Tweeter (Variable Angle Flush Mounting/Surface Mounting)
• High Grade -12dB/oct. 2way Crossover Network with Level Attenuator (0, -3dB)
• Extremely High Frequency Reproduction/120kHz

• Fs: 75Hz / Qts: 1.00 / Vas: 5.0 Litres
• 200W Music Peak Power
• GM & CHRYSLER Adaptor Included
• Frequency Response:
28~120.000 Hz
• Efficiency: 91 dB

that is all taken off > http://www.clarion.com.au/Car/index.html

i hope that makes sence to you coz i dont understand half of that crap, but i was told to go by the RMS rating and not peak but they dont seem to display that

that amp is a little weedy to power that, the other thing is your saying about 2 woofer & 1 sub, same thing! by woofers, do you mean the larger spears in the component set?

yes by woofers i mean the large speakers in the component set, i believe that is what clarion is calling them and so that is what i thought i would call them....

about the amp, could you reccomend a better one if you think that this one is too feeble to power the speakers?

also do you think that i need diffrent speakers insetad of the components? like some kind of all round speaker that can do the high to mid range and let the sub handle the lows?

i found this amp, although i have only ever used boss audio subs so i dont know if this amp is any good but is it powerful enough for this system mabey?

4 x 250 Watts max. output power
4 3 or 2 channel bridgeable
Variable bass booster
Vairable low pass & high pass crossover
Power on & protection led indicators
Fan cooling system
Boss - 4 Channel 1000 Watt High Powered Amplifier. Thermal / short - circuit / overloading protection, Gold plated RCA inputs & speaker terminals, 4 x 250 Watts max. output power, 4 3 or 2 channel bridgeable, Variable bass booster, Vairable low pass & high pass crossover, Power on & protection led indicators, Fan cooling system.




or this one i found is a no-name brand from jaycar electronics:

240WRMS - 4 Ohm Active Subwoofer Amplifier Module

Rated at 240 watts RMS into 4 ohms and 150 watts RMS into 8 ohms, this high powered amplifier module is an easy, low cost way to add an active sub woofer to your existing stereo or home theatre system. The amplifier is designed to mount in the side of the subwoofer and features both Hi (speaker level) & Low (line level) inputs, phase reversal switch variable crossover frequency and low distortion. The amp mixes the left & right input signals, (but only below a set frequency so the stereo image in unaffected) into a single sub channel so only one module is required. The auto on/off function turns the amplifier on when it receives an input signal and off when there is no input for 15 to 20 minutes. Unit requires cutout of 237Hx235Wx80Dmm.

- Level control
- Phase control
- Variable crossover frequency
- Line level input
- Hi level input
- Auto on/off sensing.

Specifications
- Continuous output power: 240W RMS into 4 ohms & 150W RMS into 8 ohms
- Frequency response: 20 to 160 Hz
- Adjustable crossover: 50Hz to 160 Hz
- THD: <0.1% - Distortion: <0.2% - S/N ratio: >100db
- Bass boost: 6db @ 35Hz
- Input sensitivity @ max vol.:150mV, Line out: 180mV @ max vol.
- Power requirement: 240V 50Hz.


is either of these two amps what i need?

with that component set, i think you have to run them through the crossover, it splits the range, so the low / mid goes to the 'woofers' and the highs go to the tweeters, do you think you will need a sub on top of those? they look quite big.

you would probably have to run the components of the amp.

but it should be powerfull enough to do them all, 2 * 250 for the components & 1 * 500 for the sub.

first of all thankyou for all your help and advice so-far it is much apriciated, secondly....

the components are only 6.2" or 16cm.... i was under the impression that a sub would still be required for the lows... but if you think one is not required then......

also what crossover would i need? is that one crossover per speaker? per channel? one for the components and one for the subs?