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Thread: amp problem

  1. #11
    FLAC Jahntassa's Avatar
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    Does the fuse blow without the subs connected? Are you sure the subs aren't blown already? Do they move easily if you push on the cone, or are they really hard to push?

  2. #12
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    ya i dont even have the subs hooked up and it blows...they feel a little easy to push...whats the remedy?

  3. #13
    Variable Bitrate SickVette's Avatar
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    It blows with nothing attached to the amp? No speaker wires at all? If so it sounds like the amp is toast. Is there a local place you can have the amp bench tested at?

  4. #14
    FLAC Jahntassa's Avatar
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    Yeah, if it's blowing without speakers attatched, you either have the 12v and ground wires backwards, or the amplifier has a serious problem and needs to be replaced. If the speakers move freely and you don't feel any 'grinding', then they're probably not blown, but other things could cause them not to work.

  5. #15
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    I agree, it sounds like the is something that is getting grounded. A wire has been crossed somewhere. Most amps have an internal fuse. I imagine the fuse you kept replacing was the external in-line power fuse. Might check and see if the internal one is still good. I way to check if the speakers work is to take a AA battery and connect the speaker leads to the battery. Not much voltage or amperage to do any harm. Maybe connect a meter and see what Ohms you are getting with the speaker wired as they are now.

  6. #16
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    i will go through the whole system again...but what amp should i run with 4ohm subs that say there 700w? there both 12s...

  7. #17
    Nic
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    if you are running them in parallel (which i assume you are) you need an amp thats 2 ohm stable, for the power of the amp it depends if they are really 700w subs which they probably arent
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  8. #18
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    will a 2ohm amp power any sub?

  9. #19
    Variable Bitrate SickVette's Avatar
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    Actually Nic he would need a 2 ohm mono stable amp.

    Fitmonkey...the amp does not determine the impedance (ohms) the speakers do. But the amp can only handle so much resitance applied to it. Generally an amp that is capable of handling a 2 ohm mono load is in the higher priced class of amps. And yes it will be able to power nearly anything you put at it. You would be better off getting a bit more powerful 4 ohm mono amp. Then wire your two 4ohm drivers in series to give the amp a 8ohm load. This will be safe for your amp. Or you could change the subs to 8ohm or DVC 4 ohm drivers. There are several options depending alot on your budget.

  10. #20
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    SickVette has good suggestions, though I'll disagree with the idea of putting the subs in series, yielding an effective impedance of 8 ohms. GENERALLY (!), amps will only be able to put out one-half the power at 8 ohms as they do at 4 ohms, which is one-half the power at 2 ohms. Now, if you want to be really safe, you can put them in series and have an 8ohm load, but you'll be 'wasting' a lot of amplifier potential since you probably won't get much power out of it. You're better off, in my opinion, getting new subs. I have two JL 12W3s (DVC 2ohm per coil, with DVCs wired in series for 4ohm load per sub, then the subs wired in parallel for a net 2ohm impedance, which gives me plenty of power when used with my bridged ESX amp).

    So, check out the amp first, since the problem is obviously with that (blowing fuses w/o any speaker wire attached means it can't be the subs, unless you burned out something due to an impedance miss-match earlier). Then check out the power ratings for the amp -- is it stable to 2ohm when bridged? Then, wire you subs so taht you can be at the lowest impedance level that is within the limits of the amp.

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