Amp Volume Fluctuations

**ralphyboy1** · 06-17-2005, 04:33 PM

Originally Posted by scott_fx

the wire may be too thin, it may be adding too much resistance into the system. maybe you could try a quick test by running some 4 gauge instead. a quick test may be to just get some 8 gauge wire and wire it in parrallel (doesn't have to be hidden, just run it on the outside for this test) to the 10 gauge that you have. keep your revs high and listen to the radio then let it idle and see if the volume goes down.

I'd bet there is two issues, the first one could be too small of guage wire and the second one could be an older battery. The above test is the perfect starting point. Like already was said let us know.

**TimW** · 06-18-2005, 12:37 AM

To start with, the battery isnt supplying the power when youre driving. The alternator is where the juice is coming from.. So dont go replacing parts until you do some basics first.

Id suggest upgrading all your wiring first, then seeing how it performs, then consider upgrading the alternator. (90ams should be plenty for a small system though)...

At least 8 guage to the amp/computer, upgrade the battery to chassis ground, upgrade the engine to chassis ground, upgrade the alternator to battery power cable.

**scott_fx** · 06-18-2005, 01:40 AM

i totally agree with both of you....check the wiring first

**ralphyboy1** · 06-18-2005, 03:56 AM

Originally Posted by TimW

To start with, the battery isnt supplying the power when youre driving. The alternator is where the juice is coming from.. So dont go replacing parts until you do some basics first.

Id suggest upgrading all your wiring first, then seeing how it performs, then consider upgrading the alternator. (90ams should be plenty for a small system though)...

At least 8 guage to the amp/computer, upgrade the battery to chassis ground, upgrade the engine to chassis ground, upgrade the alternator to battery power cable.

Before you try to make me sound like an idiot you may want to realize that if the battery is bad it will not let the alternator do it's job properly. A good battery and a good alternator are both good ideas but you should ALWAYS swap in a good battery first(after getting the wiring right). Now you may tell me I'm wrong.

**scott_fx** · 06-18-2005, 03:59 AM

i think you're correct

**ralphyboy1** · 06-18-2005, 04:08 AM

Originally Posted by scott_fx

i think you're correct

Thank you

**scott_fx** · 06-18-2005, 04:13 AM

Originally Posted by ralphyboy1

Thank you

think he should go with an optima yellow top?

**ralphyboy1** · 06-18-2005, 01:09 PM

The SVR batteries are not bad either, but the being said I have a red top, and would rather have the yellow, since it is better suited for our application. Ultimately I think we can agree any upgraded battery would be a step in the right direction

**Gewehrschuss** · 06-20-2005, 03:05 AM

I found a place in my area that tests automotive electrical systems for free (they're reputable, it's not a scam). I'm going to go tomorrow and I'll let you know if they find anything.

Thanks for all the suggestions everyone!

**WxGuy1** · 06-20-2005, 11:47 AM

Originally Posted by Gewehrschuss

I found a place in my area that tests automotive electrical systems for free (they're reputable, it's not a scam). I'm going to go tomorrow and I'll let you know if they find anything.

Thanks for all the suggestions everyone!

Most auto parts stores will "test" your battery and alt for free... Autozone uses a rather large machine that must be rolled out, while OReilley's uses a handheld deal. I'd head over to a nearby Autozone (if you have one nearby) and have them provide a 2nd opinion. Here's my latest experience with electrical system tests:

The voltmeter on my dash of my "new-to-me" '99 Pont bonneville was runnning a little low (guesstimate like 13v), so I had a couple places check it out:

Firestone: Alt good, bat bad
Autozone #1: Alt good, bat good
OReilley's #1: Alt bad, bat good

As you can see, that told me absolutely nothing!

More opinions to get to the bottom of this:

Autozone #2: Alternator good
OReilley's #2: Battery good

In the end, I went to AZ#2 and OR#2 to test the alternator and battery seperately. It turns out that the voltmeter in the dash isn't too accurate (my '95 Bonneville would almost always stay a tad below 14v, thus the reason i brought the '99 bonneville to get checked in the first place). Point being: GET A SECOND OPINION! I would have spent $70+ bucks on a new battery that would have been pretty unnecessary.