Thread: Pro Audio help needed

Your grounding sounds fine, typical star ground config..
Your power sounds fine, so long as everything gets it's power it should be fine

This smells like an impedance matching issue to me, amps don't usually shut down for much else.. Double check all your amplifier spec pages against your speaker spec pages and brush up on ohm's law. If everything seems to work check the amp against another speaker and the speaker against another amp, barring that i have no suggestions

Good luck!

greenwire thanks for the response. I am pretty sure my impedance is right.
The components are runin off a pg xenon x200.2.the amp can produce a 1-4 ohm load and the components are 2 ohm.

last night i noticed a faint huming or what not when accelerating, so could that also be a ground issue indicator. power wires are down 1 side and speaker wires down the other.

Also last night the speakers would cut in and out but the amp and DD5 stayed on. Other times the amp and DD5 would shut off and on.
Could it maybe be a loose remote wire off of the radio to the DD5?

I am going to rip the car apart and recheck all wiring today. If someone can make some sugestions please do, I am strugilin here.

Thanks,

Another quick questions.

1. Can the speaker magnet be close to metal?

Originally Posted by john_draws

Could it maybe be a loose remote wire off of the radio to the DD5?

That was a possible cause I was thinkin on...

About your last question, no problem at al for your magnet to be close to metal!

Originally Posted by john_draws

1. Why is my speaker popping even when well underpowered. (pretty sure
there is no speaker wire short).

2. Why are my amps clipping out even at super low volumes?

1. The popping sound from ur left speaker could be caused by the preamp in your HU, a bad line connection from your HU to your amp or even because the linecables to your amps are running next to your powercable (best is to run power on one side of the vehicle(left) and signallines on the other(right))

2. The clipping could occure if there is a problem with your HU, because you connected your speaker outputs from the HU to the line inputs from your amps or because you are using a bad linecable...

To test if the problem is with your HU, use an other source as input for your amps (walkman, iPod, cdplayer, ...) using a 3.5mm jack to cinch cable.

To test if its the linecable just switch the left and right from your amps input, if the plop sounds now from your right speaker (and you have tested your HU to work fine) then there is a problem with your linecable.

To test if there is a problem with your amps remote conncetion connect, at the amp, the remote straight away to the +, if you stil have the same problem your remote wire is ok.

These are just some things I can think of at the moment, good luck and hope you can get it solved quick!

Originally Posted by yak8998

yes, the magnet can be close to metal. against it even.

it sounds like your bottoming out your mids. 75W can and can't bottom out the speakers. depends on enclosure, crossovers. Turn up the XO some and see if it doesn't stop that. And the turn on turn off issue could be any number of things. I'd start with taking that dd5 out of the loop and see what happens. it might be part of the issue. keep it simple.

I'd agree with this much of the above statement.
It actually sound like you have real good understanding of what you're doing here. When trouble shooting try to keep it simple.
I think the remote turn on lead is an easy thing to check next. Run a separate one temporarily rather than checking continuity as your problem seems intermittent.
I once had a similar situation in a girlfriends car. It turned out to be a poor positive connection to the radio itself (no carputer here). It had some connectivity allowing it to run and to start up the amp, but would give the pops you're describing without any real consistency.

You mention the fuses for the amps......is there a fuse in the front of the car on the 4ga?

I agree ...the key to trouble shooting is keeping it simple. Do one item at a time. I would also use a multi meter to verify impedance and shorts. Sooome good advice above.

When a speaker makes a loud pop it is not really the speaker "bottoming out". What happens is the speaker is over driven. THe coil jumps out of the gap. When the coil goes back into the gap it often hits the sides which causes the loud pop.

Thanks for the quick good responses. I probably should have mentioned it is a stock unit going to a LOC.

The component speakers are mounted in custom free air speaker pods on the lower section of the door. (to be enclosed later.)

I agree with taken the DD5 out of the mix as I think when the front speakers
were shorting it was telling the DD5 to shut off the amps.(maybe)

The wiered thing is that sometimes the DD5 and MTX (test amp) both restart and then sometimes both stayed powered and only the speakers cut in and out.

So right now I am going to try takin the DD5 out of the mix and just try the MTX to components on HP filter.

QUESTION

1. When using the xenon x200.2 for the components i should use HP filter and
set the XO to what ? (like 120hz maybe, I want some bass they are 6 1\2)

Again thanks for the help, I will report on my findings in an hour or so.

Nice guys more good responses, thank you.

@sickvette....

Actually as of right now there is just a dummy fuse at the car battery as
I am havin trouble finding the proper size fuse locally.
Also thanks for the explination on the speaker pop.

@achiever

Thanks for the comments, I feel I have a good idea as I am into home stereo
and such.