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Thread: Need help building VW Monsoon amp input

  1. #41
    Maximum Bitrate kbyrd's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by WebDog
    I bet i have seen the awnser to this before but i cant remember...
    why dont we use the 5V out of the M1-ATX?
    See post #15 of this thread. The 5V out of the M1-ATX isn't steady. It will introduce noice.

    Quote Originally Posted by WebDog
    Also how are you mounting your LCD? i got the TMZ but it wont fit with out mods to the dash...
    That's a good question, I got the TMZ bezel and chasis too. I plan to chop a few inches off the back. Then, there's another thread around here on plans for an additional bezel for VWs that just slides over the TMZ bezel to give us a good fit. I haven't done any of this yet as I'm having trouble getting a working LCD in my hands.
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  2. #42
    Well, He asked for it. WebDog's Avatar
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    Well i just finished my cable...

    Figured i would post a pic of it.

    Im gona replace the 1/8" plug with a higer quality one tomorrow.
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  3. #43
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    This is cool. I want to post a FAQ on this but need to make sure of the exact circuit diagram. Web Dog, could you do one for that picture above? Also part numbers and sources for the connector (if they're in the thread, just say so and I'll re-read it and pull them out).
    Quote Originally Posted by ghettocruzer View Post
    I was gung ho on building a PC [until] just recently. However, between my new phone having internet and GPS and all...and this kit...Im starting to have trouble justfiying it haha.
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  4. #44
    Well, He asked for it. WebDog's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bugbyte
    This is cool. I want to post a FAQ on this but need to make sure of the exact circuit diagram. Web Dog, could you do one for that picture above? Also part numbers and sources for the connector (if they're in the thread, just say so and I'll re-read it and pull them out).
    yea i guess i could do that, not sure how to make it a corret diagram but i can make it a human readable one..

    I beleve most the part #s are in the posts.
    1990 Jeep Cherokee
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  5. #45
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    Human readable will be just fine. Even scanned pencil sketch will do. Thanks!
    Quote Originally Posted by ghettocruzer View Post
    I was gung ho on building a PC [until] just recently. However, between my new phone having internet and GPS and all...and this kit...Im starting to have trouble justfiying it haha.
    Want to:
    -Find out about the new iBug iPad install?
    -Find out about carPC's in just 5 minutes? View the Car PC 101 video

  6. #46
    Maximum Bitrate kbyrd's Avatar
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    Here's my schematic



    It's really simplified and probably doesn't make much sense without the pictures and information in this thread (for instance, the monsoon adapter had 8 wires coming from it, but I've joined them into three groups).

    Where the arrows join, I've used quick-connects. I've got this built, but it's noisy (no surprise). It sounds like noise coming from the computer. So, I'm building another one that uses rca connections so I can put a ground loop isolator inline. I'll post schematic and pics when that is done.
    My worklog.
    Status: VM GTI sold, got out of the CarPC tinkering hobby, but I still think about getting back in.

  7. #47
    Well, He asked for it. WebDog's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kbyrd
    It's really simplified and probably doesn't make much sense without the pictures and information in this thread (for instance, the monsoon adapter had 8 wires coming from it, but I've joined them into three groups).

    Where the arrows join, I've used quick-connects. I've got this built, but it's noisy (no surprise). It sounds like noise coming from the computer. So, I'm building another one that uses rca connections so I can put a ground loop isolator inline. I'll post schematic and pics when that is done.
    I would just put it on a pcb bord, i put everything on the board and have no noise... you could still do a ground loop isolator but then everything else is on the board at least.
    1990 Jeep Cherokee
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  8. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by kbyrd
    Where the arrows join, I've used quick-connects. I've got this built, but it's noisy (no surprise). It sounds like noise coming from the computer. So, I'm building another one that uses rca connections so I can put a ground loop isolator inline. I'll post schematic and pics when that is done.
    I'm having the same problem. Please please please please tell me if you make any progress. What does the noise sound like exactly? Mine is engine noise AND harddrive noise. It's gotten to a point where I just wanna throw it out my trunk! AAAAH! (not cause the noise is so bad... because I can't figure out how to fix it!)

  9. #49
    Maximum Bitrate BoraXP's Avatar
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    tips from my experience with VW's and noise

    no inverters

    use quality sheilded cable

    i would recommend trying to mount your little doohickey in a aluminum project box and upgrading all the wires on it

  10. #50
    Maximum Bitrate kbyrd's Avatar
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    I built my "RCA" version of this (no pics):
    - headphone jack to RCA, with an injector port for 5V tied to the ground, and a capacitor to protect the headphone jack.
    - Monsoon harness to RCA.

    I then put a ground loop isolator beteen the two RCA plugs. I got nothing. In hindsight, I should have seen this. The ground loop isolator completely removed the 5V I had injected. So, I replaced the ground loop isolator with a length of good quality RCA cable. I'm not sure but I think it there may be more noise than before (could be my soldered connections suck this time).


    So, I assumed the noise was coming from the 5V which is fed from a 12V from the PSU. If that's the noise source, then I can't run it through a ground loop isolator, but could I provide a better source for it? I'm thinking of taking 12V and ground from the car (maybe even the same leads that power the amp?) and using that for the 5V. I would control it via a relay so it wasn't on all the time.

    Another possibility is that the noise is coming from the headphone/speaker output of the M10000 soundcard. If this is the case, then running this through a ground loop isolator will help, but I still have to inject the 5V after the isolator.

    Grrrrrrr.

    Finally, from what we know about the orignal monsoon head unit output, I still think I shouold be appplying 5V on all the L/R+ as well as the common ground. Would this have the side effect of eliminating noise generated by the 5V circuit since the + and - lines would fluctuate in sync leaving only actual signal as the difference between them?
    My worklog.
    Status: VM GTI sold, got out of the CarPC tinkering hobby, but I still think about getting back in.

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