Stock Radio won't kick on?

**paran0id** · 10-13-2005, 01:00 PM

Originally Posted by turbocad6

theres no reason to check for continuity if theres power at the fuse & not the head.... if it had continuity it'd have power.

Why should there not be a reason to check for continuity?
The cable could be faulty. There could be another fuse along the way.
Even if the owners manual doesn't mention it, there's still the possibility.

There are many reasons to check for continuity.. Some listed above.

/p

**turbocad6** · 10-13-2005, 01:04 PM

Originally Posted by turbocad6

... if it had continuity it'd have power.

he has no power= there is no continuity from the fuse he sees with power.... this is a given

**Snootch** · 10-13-2005, 06:58 PM

Originally Posted by turbocad6

bump this thread in the morning, I'll try to get a diagram

HaHa, beat u to it

From the12volt.com:

Radio 12v blue/yellow + radio harness
Radio Ground brown - radio harness
Radio Ignition gray + radio harness
Radio Illumination green + radio harness
Factory Amp Turn-on N/A
Power Antenna N/A
LF Speaker +/- pink - purple +,- radio harness or amplifier
Notes: If equipped, the amplifier is on the passenger side rear cabin wall.
RF Speaker +/- lt. green - blue +,- radio harness or amplifier
LR Speaker +/- black - yellow +,- radio harness or amplifier
RR Speaker +/- red - white +,- radio harness or amplifier

**turbocad6** · 10-13-2005, 07:44 PM

dude, I ment a mitchells on demand diagram that will show the whole circuit & know where to go to check for problems next, but that's a pain because I have to go to a friends shop & print it up...... not worth doing if it's a blown fuse, which it will probably wind up being I think.... for him to have niether powers is a little more strange.... but he must check all the fuses first....there is a basic flow to diagnose a problem like this

**Snootch** · 10-14-2005, 07:10 AM

oh, you meant a REAL diagram, not just a pinout. I see. That would be more helpful.

**IntellaWorks** · 10-14-2005, 02:02 PM

Well I think I've at least diagnosed the problem. It's NOT a blown fuse, like I had originally expected.

Let me further explain: In the back of my stock radio there are two plugs that house about 12 wires and 5 wires respectively. The plug with 5 wires has 16 gauge wire colored: black, white, red, yellow, brown. The 12 wire plug has 22 gauge wires with all different colors.

Upon taking the radio out and adding the PIE adapter and placing the radio back into the dash, the radio wouldn't turn on. So to begin diagnosing, I was testing the plug with 5 wires and bigger gauge wire, ASSUMING that was where the power was comming from. Aparently, after going to toyota and getting the electrical wirring diagram for the radio the power for my radio comes from the plug with 22 gauge wires. Its a gray wire, (I think blue) and brown that act has constant power, ignition and ground.

The kick of the whole situation is that my radio is being powered by this PUNY wire in a plug that I thought was for the speakers. When in fact, the plug I was testing (which I assumed was correct harness that powers the radio) I beleive connects the speakers (or can power an external amp)

OK, so I was basically testing the wrong friggen plug. But to save myself, if you guys saw two plugs into a stock radio one with a bunch of 22 gauge wire and another with 16 gauge (red, white, yellow, black, brown) wouldn't you think that was powering the radio because of its colors and thickness of the wire??

It was an honest mistake, so moving forward. What the hell caused my radio to blow? All the fuses checked out, so its defiantly not a blown fuse and the right plug is getting power so the radio must be dead.

I can think of two likely problems and maybe you guys can give me a better idea. In haste, when tapping into the drivers fuse panel on the ACC fuse to create a circuit for my startup controller, I used one of those (add a circuit links) and instead of using 2 ,7.5AMP fuse's , where there was a 7.5A there before. I used 2 10A Fuse's telling myself it was just temporary until I could go to the store to get 7.5's (oops!). So instead of having a 7.5A protected line going to the radio's IGN switch I had a 10A protected line. It's been running under this condition for about 2 weeks. Do you think I just got unlucky turning the radio on at the same time I installed the PIE which blew the radio?

The second problem could be the PIE adapter itself. I mean, on PIE PIE Adapter I ordered. Could this unit be faulty? Knowing that I blew a 500 doller radio (which thankfully my dealership is going to replace) I'm not too excited to rush back into my dash. If it was entirely my fault, I would have baught a new radio on my dime. But after talking with the mechanic and explaining my circuitry and exactly where it is, and where it's linked to, including what fuses I had he said to not rule out a faulty radio. But I just find that too much of a coincidence.

Up to this point I'd like to add that you guys (including turbocad) have been so helpful. I'm by far a car audio specialist, but I'm confortable enough (and possibily stupid enough) to get this far. Its just nice to know that I have this forum as an alternate way to get information.

If I had the ability, I'd buy everyone a beer.

**Will Albers** · 10-14-2005, 02:09 PM

Person 1 - I'm not getting any power out of this harness. I have tried everything, i even used a multimeter to test it

Person 2 - Did you check the fuses?

Person 1 - Where are the fuses on this harness, all i see is the flexible bit and this metal clicky thing.

Person 2 - Dude, thats a seatbelt.

**MatrixPC** · 10-14-2005, 02:28 PM

Originally Posted by MatrixPC

BTW, Toyota wiring color code is NOT the same as most after market wiring color code. There is NO solid color on the wiring harness.

That what it is.

Now check if your speakers have blown.

**turbocad6** · 10-14-2005, 02:36 PM

that's a pretty honest mistake, I might have made the same assumption you did about the power wires initially, but when it started looking screwy I think I would have went back & double checked that second plug anyway.... I have seen factory radios like that, with the smaller gauge being power

I doubt the 7.5 fuse being replaced with a 10 amp caused your problem, fuse ratings are pretty much approximate anyway & the tolerances can vary even with a correct fuse by an amp or so for a fuse in this range, the 10 is not very far off from the 7.5... obviously this can't be ruled out completely, but I think it's less likely at this point.

how confirmed is it that the radio is toast... I mean is it confirmed that there should be no other power on another wire? have you also checked to see if the ground is still ground? there may also be the slight chance that the radio uses some sort of serial data or a buss to the bcm, but I don't know for sure on toyotas.... is it confirmed that the radio is shot or is this another assumption at this point?

**IntellaWorks** · 10-14-2005, 02:39 PM

Another assumption, I braught my truck into the dealership for an oil change and had them also take a look at the radio and they came up with "Blown Radio" . The only way I can think of testing is just hooking it up to a powersupply on my workbench..