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Thread: Xplod vs. Audiobahn

  1. #11
    Maximum Bitrate XxAndyxX's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sir Posts A Lot
    My budget is about $1700 for the whole system, but really $1400, cause Im getting a $300 panasonic headunit. Id like 2 12" subs and 4 speakers, and however many amps needed to make it very loud (one 4 channel, and 2 monos maybe)
    what does sql, sq, and spl mean?
    ****, with that kinda money you can have a kickass system! When I get off of work I will post some links of speakers/amps your should take a look at.

  2. #12
    Newbie NisAznMonk's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sir Posts A Lot
    My budget is about $1700 for the whole system, but really $1400, cause Im getting a $300 panasonic headunit. Id like 2 12" subs and 4 speakers, and however many amps needed to make it very loud (one 4 channel, and 2 monos maybe)
    what does sql, sq, and spl mean?
    I'm new to the carpc world, but hopefully i can help with some car audio stuff

    If you want to do some research, www.caraudio.com is a good place to start. Sony Xplod is crap, unless you can get your hands on thier old ES line. That stuff was around in the late 90's (98-00 i think) and was some of the best line of amps around.

    If you go new, look at www.reaudio.com and check out their RE line of subwoofers. They are relatively inexpensive (~$100 for a single 12") and perform very well. Innovative Rides here in Houston, TX (www.innovativerides.com) benched RE12.1 amps at 1450watts at 1ohm, and that would be plenty of power to run four of the RE12's if you wanted. There are cheaper solutions if you wanted to go with a different brand. If you are open to suggestions, then let us know. I'm sure someone on this forum can help

    SPL = sound pressure levels aka how loud you can get at peak frequency.
    SQ = sound quality
    SQL = a compromise between the two

    What car do you have? I'll help you with the car audio part if you can help me with the carpc stuff. I am trying to do a search, but I'm having a hard time understanding what search words to use

  3. #13
    Maximum Bitrate XxAndyxX's Avatar
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    This is what I would do:

    You don't need rear speakers if you have a nice front end setup, especially if you have subs. Rear speakers can actually mess up your sound stage. I suggest you take the money that you would be spending on rear speakers and get a kickass front stage.

    Amps:
    NINe.1 (1200wrms @ 1 ohm) $350
    NINe.4 (150wrms x 2 @ 4 ohms) $235

    Speakers:
    CDT HD-62 $350
    (2) 12" RE SE $370

    So that leaves around $200 for installation and sound deadning.

  4. #14
    Fusion Brain Creator
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    Quote Originally Posted by XxAndyxX
    This is what I would do:

    You don't need rear speakers if you have a nice front end setup, especially if you have subs. Rear speakers can actually mess up your sound stage. I suggest you take the money that you would be spending on rear speakers and get a kickass front stage.

    Amps:
    NINe.1 (1200wrms @ 1 ohm) $350
    NINe.4 (150wrms x 2 @ 4 ohms) $235

    Speakers:
    CDT HD-62 $350
    (2) 12" RE SE $370

    So that leaves around $200 for installation and sound deadning.


    that setup >>>>>> xplod/audiobahn

  5. #15
    Newbie OneFast97Z's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by XxAndyxX
    Haha, "they (audiobahn) seem good quality."

    Sony Xploids and Audiobahn are BOTH at the bottom of the barrell. They both make cheap crappy subs and amps. Sanbas doesn't know what he's talking about if he thinks those are 'decent'.

    What is your price range and what kind of setup are you looking for? SPL, SQL, strictly SQ? Also, what kind of space do you have to work with?
    Wrong... Audiobahn makes great amplifiers depending on the one you choose, i have 2 of them and yes, i did my research...


    Quote Originally Posted by XxAndyxX
    This is what I would do:

    You don't need rear speakers if you have a nice front end setup, especially if you have subs. Rear speakers can actually mess up your sound stage. I suggest you take the money that you would be spending on rear speakers and get a kickass front stage.
    Right... a good front speaker system is all you really need... with some good tweeters to hit your highs, some good mids to hit your midrange, and with one or two good subs... not good as in big or loud, but clear and tight... you will fill the low bass range... im running Focals top of the line 2-way components in the front with 2 10" image dynamic subs and couldnt be happier... an equilizer wouldnt be a bad idea either if you know how to tune them, otherwise, just use the headunit....
    1997 30th Anniversary Z28 Camaro M6 w/ T-Tops
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  6. #16
    FLAC
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    So what defines a good vs bad amp?


    Protection circutry? Signal isolation? sound quality?

  7. #17
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    good amp vs. bad amp

    1. If it has chrome and has blinky lights, the company is probably trying to draw your attention away from the truth...its a hunk of crap.

    2. If the dollar to watt ratio is not around .75 to $1 a watt, then its probably crap....or stolen.

    3. Look at RMS wattage rated at 12volts not peak wattage at 15volts

    4. Make sure you match your subs to your amplifier or vice versa. Ex. Two 10" Subs wired to 2ohms but your amplifier is designed to run at 1ohm would be wrong. Two 10" subs wired to 2 ohms and your amplifier is designed to run at 2 ohms is right. (If you have a hard time understanding Ohm's law, support your local "brick and mortar" stereo shop, that's what they are there for!)

    5. Base your system around your vehicle's power creating potential.

  8. #18
    FLAC
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    I understand what you are saying, but...

    Quote Originally Posted by elgenyo
    1. If it has chrome and has blinky lights, the company is probably trying to draw your attention away from the truth...its a hunk of crap..
    Same can be said for shiney wheels, fog lights and aftermarket tail lights?

    Quote Originally Posted by elgenyo
    2. If the dollar to watt ratio is not around .75 to $1 a watt, then its probably crap....or stolen..
    Why?

    Quote Originally Posted by elgenyo
    3. Look at RMS wattage rated at 12volts not peak wattage at 15volts.
    Educated customer vs marketing.

    Quote Originally Posted by elgenyo
    4. Make sure you match your subs to your amplifier or vice versa. Ex. Two 10" Subs wired to 2ohms but your amplifier is designed to run at 1ohm would be wrong. Two 10" subs wired to 2 ohms and your amplifier is designed to run at 2 ohms is right. (If you have a hard time understanding Ohm's law, support your local "brick and mortar" stereo shop, that's what they are there for!).
    Is this to get the most volume out of the system? My amplifiers have no limiting factors in the power supply. It will continue to pull amperage regardless of the load. Does that mean i'm crazy not to run it at .000025 ohms?

    Quote Originally Posted by elgenyo
    5. Base your system around your vehicle's power creating potential.
    as in power consumption? Not trying to pull more out of the charging system than you can afford?


    I see what you are saying, but you have yet to answer what makes one amp better than the next. Is it marketing ploys that shame an amplifier?

  9. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Will Albers
    I understand what you are saying, but...



    Same can be said for shiney wheels, fog lights and aftermarket tail lights?



    Why?



    Educated customer vs marketing.



    Is this to get the most volume out of the system? My amplifiers have no limiting factors in the power supply. It will continue to pull amperage regardless of the load. Does that mean i'm crazy not to run it at .000025 ohms?



    as in power consumption? Not trying to pull more out of the charging system than you can afford?


    I see what you are saying, but you have yet to answer what makes one amp better than the next. Is it marketing ploys that shame an amplifier?
    1. Shiny wheels - you have your crap brands then you have your good quality products like HRE, Davin, Lexani
    The idea of aftermarket lights began with a total rip off from the IS300 so "IMHO" they are all crap cuz if I wanted to look like an IS300 then I'd go buy one.

    2. Becuase to make a good quality product it requires the use of good quality parts and strong MOSFETS and power supplies are not cheap, but just like everything out there, you'll always find a lesser grade replacement that will be less expensive

    3. Correct

    4. Its more about getting what you pay for and insuring your product operates within "safe" parameters. If you have subs wired at 2ohms and your amp runs best at 1ohm then you paid for an amp that would only be running at half efficiency. However, if you wire your subs at 1ohm and your amp runs at 2ohms then most likely your amp will push into protect or it will damage the output IC inside (burn up your amp).

    5. Yes, I see customers every day come in with 2000 watt amplifers on vehicles that put out 60-80amps via the alternator. They ask for capacitors and extra batteries but all those do is band-aid the problem. If you want to exceed your vehicles excess amperage, then I would strongly suggest getting your alternator rebuilt or invest in an aftermarket one.

    Sorry about not answering your original question. I would say that its whats on the inside that makes one amp better than the next. Unfortunately it takes an industry professional or an engineer to really understand what components inside an amp makes it better. I suppose thats why communities like this are so great! Hopefully as soon as the 12volt industry fully implements CEA2006 regulations then it will become easier for everyone.

  10. #20
    Maximum Bitrate techy101's Avatar
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    From the sound of it, you just want to try to impress(annoy) people with your loud music. If thats the case, go get yourself some Sony or Audiobahn junk, and blow it all to hell. Get the amp with the most of those watt things on the box, and see how much loud you can get out of it.

    If you're actually looking to build a nice system, then you've got a lot of research to do on proper sytem deisgn. Everything starting from impediance matching your system, proper gain structure, crossover settings, and designing a charging system for your car that can handle what you put in it. Thats just the tip of the iceburg.

    If you want quality, research on good equpiment, and go to stores and listen to it. You'll be able to tell the difference between an Audiobahn (junk) amp, and a JL, higher end Alpine, DLS, etc... amp.

    For that kind of $$ you can build a pretty nice system, IF you plan it out well.

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