Thread: Soundstream XTA720.4 VS. JL 300/4

IMO id use the JL

Sure it will run 360W but the amp is really seeing a 2ohm load so distortion is above .5% and prob just under an audible 1%.

If you are using a 4ch amp and only want to run front speakers off it you should invest in an electronic xover and run 3-way active imo.
You can get one really cheap off Ebay now since amps have built in xovers. I don't think that yours has the range or bandpass capability you need to do this so you would need an external one.
IMO it will sound much better then running bridged into each side.

EDIT you can always turn the gains down to where you need them.

Originally Posted by 3onDubs

I am using a Digital Sound Processor that feeds my amps. It has a built in electronic crossover so it would allow me to run an active setup. I was doing this originally, but I couldn't get the tuning down, so I just went back to using my passive crossovers for now.

What do you mean by 3 way active? My components are only 2 way....Do you mean tweeters, midranges, and subs?

I have read through many active vs. passive debates, and there have been arguments for both sides....is active potentially better than passive if tuned properly?

It is debatable. I've had a couple 3way active systems but run an amp that like passives better now (tube amp). But I think in your case with wanting to max the power without over powering (or 2ohm loading only to turn the gains back down) combined the control you already have in your system that you should give it another try. It gives much more control over the system and you should set xover points eq flat first then tune to your liking.
Yeah 3-way active = tweeters, mid(bass), sub. I guess you have another amp on the rears and one on the subs too.

The easiest way to explain the benefits is do you want to amplify a full range signal and cut a bunch of sound out or do you want to amplify the specific range you want to the speaker. Also tweeters are very sensitive. You'll end up setting the gain way lower on those channels and get the same output to match your mids. A friend with an o-scope and rta would make things really easy but start with a flat eq or even better your noise generator to match the output to each type of speaker.

Basically electronic xovers can be tailored to your car (listening environment) better. There's something to be said for a companies matched passives but unless they are really high end and you see lots of caps and coils to get a steep slopping x-over point then the electronic will prob own it.

If you amplify the range of 0-80Hz to your sub, doesn't that make more sense that you will get more output then if you aplified 0-22kHz and chopped out part of the signal? That's a pro for electronic xover but I don't want to weigh too heavy on that unless you compete in spl.

I think I mentioned that the only reason I use passives in my car now is that it's tube amped. They like a passive (generally) and they aren't efficient amps to begin with so why bother (my stereo gets louder then I like it), great reason is $ for another tube too but you already have 4ch's to play with. But if you can put more power to the midbass then the tweeter you will get more precence (fuller sound) at lower volumes.

You have all the equip to run a nice 3 way setup. I'd give it another try but flatten your eq and run the white noise to get balanced output before you play with the settings. Set your headunit about 5 notches under the max vol 1st too since you can't oscope it to see where it clips.

I'll guess the passives are 12dB/oct and your headunit/processor has nice 24dB/oct xovers built in (check I'm guessing). That means that if your manual for the components says xover point is 5K hz then you could prob let them play down to 4K hz (just an ex.). Don't forget that each speaker may sound like crap on it's own, just listen for distortion to set the midbass then match the tweeter with white noise generator or music you know.

If it's still too much to think about there's nothing wrong with putting it in and having a local shop rta tune it for an hour to get you going. Stereo is the easy part for me it's deciding on setup for carputer that makes me scratch my head.

Give it a try. I think maybe you had the xover set wrong or something first time around. It should sound better. You should be able to tune it exactly the way you want it.

Last tip that I can offer is that if you have a decent home stereo, use it to help train your ear before you start to tune. After a little while you forget what you are supposed to hear sometimes.
And I am no expert just a hobbyist, that's kinda rusty with todays equip., but the tuning almost remains the same.