Remote faceplate with Alpines (interconect, wire, solder)

**black_mamba** · 08-07-2009, 02:50 PM

Wow, I was just noticing how old the original post is. Anyway, I've never does this, but it seems like an easier/better solution would be what wiredwrx suggested.

First off the contacts are fairly smooth and it'd probably be difficult (but not impossible) to get solder to stick securely. I'm assuming the male end is on the HU and the female on the faceplate. I would try to disassemble the headunit and see if I could desolder the connector from it's board. Then solder wires from the board to the connector. Should be easy since those were solder points to begin with. Another benefit would be that you don't have to modify the faceplate allowing you to disconnect it from the connector and use it's case to carry it.

**hot36** · 09-11-2010, 04:19 AM

I found a service manual for the Alpine CDA-117. When you completely remove the entire front of the head unit, all you see is the CD unit and a stationary 20 pin connector. By purchasing this service cable, it allowed me to retain the whole front of the CD unit as a whole. This way, I built a metal housing and placed the whole faceplate into it. This will still allow me to remove the faceplate and keep the factory look of the unit without a bunch of wires showing where others have done this with soldered wires showing.

The cable was purchased from: Hermanelectronics.com the part number of the cable is: 01V35647S01 It cost $64.00. It's about 12 inches long, but you can probable cut the cable and extend it with a computer ribbon cable if needed. I just didn't want to have anything to do with soldering on the radio itself. Here are some photos of the mods I did. Hope this will help others out. As this site gave me some ideas from everyone's previous postings.

**Scott Carver** · 02-13-2012, 07:33 PM

I know this was a while ago, but I'd be interested to see if this would work better. I'm trying out a CDA-9886 now, and I think what you're saying is the voltage drop is from the board on the back of the unit front. So by taking that off, maybe, you put that in with the faceplate and the voltage only drops the 1/4" that it takes to get to the face plate? Maybe? Wanna elaborate on this a little?