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Thread: Help with buying an Amp

  1. #1
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    Mar 2006
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    Help with buying an Amp

    I recently purchased a 12" Kicker Solo X sub and I'm having trouble finding an amp to push it. I'm kind of new at actually juding specifications on amps and subs but I heard a lot of good reviews of the X sub so I purchased it.

    Anyways, here is what the X has

    Impedance (OHMS) 1 or 2ohm DVC
    Max Rec Amplifier Power (WATTS PEAK) 5000
    Max Rec Amplifier Power (WATTS RMS) 2500
    Sensitivity (dB 1W/1M) 87.7
    Frequency Response (HZ) 20-100
    Mounting Depth (IN.) 8-9/16
    Mounting Cutout, Square (IN.) 11 1/4

    ...I plan on purchasing another 12 in the future and possible just hooking it to another amp but I want to do a few more things to my car first. I'm sure with the right amp, the 12 that I have will satisfy my needs for the time being.

    Any suggestions anyone? Any feedback would be greatly appreciated.

  2. #2
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    Oh and also..what type of writing kits ect...would you recommend after purchasing this?

  3. #3
    Constant Bitrate fooshizn1x's Avatar
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    I'm not an audio expert, but i've been playing around with "systems" for quite a few years. heres what I've learned through the years: that instead of buying a speaker that can handle 20000000000 watts and pushing it with 600 watts and having not that great of sound, your better off buying a speaker that can handle 400 watts and pushing it with 400 watts vs a speaker that can handle a lot more and pushing it with less. If your speaker can handle 2500 RMS, I'd suggest the biggest baddest amp you can find for it.. otherwise you wont be using the speaker to its potential and you wont enjoy the true sound that it can produce. I've had many systems, low budget.. that will blow away higher budget systems that arent setup correctly. Buy a decent sub, and push it to it to its max.. lets say for example you buy a woofer that can handle 450 watts max RMS.. RMS = continuous power.. so when does your music ever draw 450 watts RMS.. only on a few major bass notes, or continuously if your playing a bass CD.. push your amp with at LEAST 450 watts RMS.. and you'll enjoy your speaker far more than buying a 2000 watt max RMS speaker and pushing it with 450 watts RMS.. it will sound muffled and distorted because it cant be played properly. You'll get better sound out of 50 dollar woofers and a good amp than you will out of 200 dollar woofers and a cheap amp. I run stock speakers in my truck.. which are rated at 10 watts.. I push them at 19 watts RMS (from head unit) they sound great even compared to my friend $250 dollar component set.. which goes to show that running a speaker to its full potential vs running it at 1/4 potential will always ound better.. if you live in socal let me know.. I"ll let you listen to my truck.. its nothing spectacular, but it sounds good and clean and enjoyably loud.. and its on a budget

  4. #4
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    yea.

    Yeah. I see what your saying. I've been going to school for 2 years now in the electronic field so I can see this on paper (doesn't really look that different) Pretty much can be summed up in formulas and such. I do know that some amps don't put out true wattage and I really don't have much experiance when it comes to audio in your vehicle. So that's why I posted to see if someone can point me in the right direction as far as brand or what they would get if they were me.

  5. #5
    Variable Bitrate
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    Sep 2004
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    Thats one hell of a sub. I have had a solobaric l7 15" and they are spl monsters.

    I'm not sure if you have considered this but spl = sound presure level and generaly speaking most spl speakers are known for making more spl than clear sound.

    If your going for quality I'm afriad you may have the wrong sub. If you want moderate quality you may be ok.

    If you realy want quality though I would recomend you take back/sell that sub and go with another brand. I can personaly recomend a great company called Image Dynamics. There IDQ 15" should be great performer or there IDMAX 15". Eather one of those will cost a fraction of the cost of the sub that you have and have alot lower power requirments.

    As for an amp any MTX or Rockford Fosgate should do you right.

  6. #6
    FLAC
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    Well, the best i can tell you is this: read the manual and your box. Now the second best: Return the amp, you're in over your head. This sucker was made for the comp cirucit and if you dont' have the amp already avaiable to power it, you're nto comp, no offense.

    BUT , if you plan to keep it...my thrid best: hopefully you bought the dual 2 ohm set. Wire it to take not one, but TWO amps. At 2ohms, the Kickers should be stable for any amp. You may get a 1 Ohm amp and then it doesn't matter if you have the 1ohm or 2 ohm voice coils in there. you'll need two 2W (may get you to a good RMS and cover all major ground) amps for that, which is less expensive than one 5kW amp. Thank God you only got one. Don't get another.
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  7. #7
    Variable Bitrate
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    Every has also forgot to tell you that by geting a huge amp to power that sub your going to be blowing stock alternators left and right.

    Your very best bet is return every thing and decide exactly how much you want to spend and if you want an spl or quality setup.

  8. #8
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    Yeah. I don't understand much about radio speakers but I do know the math. And I do plan on getting another 12 because I want to get into competition with this. I don't really care to spend money as long as I enjoy it so money aint really an option. I found a really nice punch amp that I'm gonna purchase but got to save up to buy the second one. I'll just put everything in my room until I can afford to get everything

    thx 4 the input yall!!

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