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Thread: amp keeps on blowing fuses

  1. #1
    My Village Called 0l33l's Avatar
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    Unhappy amp keeps on blowing fuses

    I finished my carputer install yesturday, and I've got a problem with my sub amp. The amp has blown its second fuse in basically one day. First time it blew the fuse I was trying to lower the gain because I felt that it hit too hard for the volume. The second time it blew when I turned the carputer off. The wiring is new, and there aren't any shorts that I know off, since its been blowing the fuses when I was still stationary.

    Any ideas on how to solve the problem would be great

  2. #2
    Raw Wave kickercivic1's Avatar
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    If it works and then blows fuses and you said you have no shorts, there is something wrong with the amp internally.

  3. #3
    My Village Called 0l33l's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kickercivic1
    If it works and then blows fuses and you said you have no shorts, there is something wrong with the amp internally.


    Any chance that the gain or something is set too high?

  4. #4
    FLAC Jahntassa's Avatar
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    Doubtful.. you'd probably have to have it cranked all the way (or more) to accomplish that.

    Also, what fuse? The one that's installed by the battery, or the one physically on the amp? What kind of amp and how is it hooked up with the speakers? What are the fuses rated on the amp if those are blowing?

  5. #5
    My Village Called 0l33l's Avatar
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    Well... it does hit a bit too hard for 35% volume. That's why I wanted to turn it down a bit, and then the first fuse blew.

    I am talking about the fuse on the acutal amp. I've got a 60 amp fuse right next to the battery, and then 3 30amp fuses going to each component (sub amp, 4 channel speaker amp, carputer). This amp has a 20 amp fuse.

    How is it hooked up? I bridged it (its a bridgeable amp), and it goes to the stock sub.

  6. #6
    Maximum Bitrate Sidewalksalvage's Avatar
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    there aren't any shorts that I know off
    Have you run down every line (power, ground, AND remote) to make sure??

    There was a short in my remote line for one of my amps which caused the fuse to blow...

    Also, what is the amp rated for...is 20A what originally came with it. (I do NOT suggest throwing in a 30 or something just to see if it works that would DEFINATLY hurt the amp.....) but if it is supposed to have a 30 and there is a 20 that would cause it to blow for sure (i know it sounds stupid...but hey you never know...)
    Brown 2010

  7. #7
    My Village Called 0l33l's Avatar
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    The amp is a Kicker IX402. Specs. Manual.

    Manual says 20a.

    How do I know that there aren't any shorts... because it worked when I was driving. The remote is connected between two of my amps (actually, it goes into the speaker amp, and a wire from the speaker amp goes into this one). So that's not the problem.

  8. #8
    Maximum Bitrate Sidewalksalvage's Avatar
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    The best way to check for a short is to actually run along the wire and see if theres a break in the coating anywhere....

    if manual says 20A then it should be right....
    Brown 2010

  9. #9
    My Village Called 0l33l's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sidewalksalvage
    The best way to check for a short is to actually run along the wire and see if theres a break in the coating anywhere....

    if manual says 20A then it should be right....
    I know. I made sure already

  10. #10
    My Village Called 0l33l's Avatar
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    Oh yeh... and I used 8Ga wire. 4Ga from battery to distribution block, and then 8Ga to everything else.

    Another question... should I have it set to 70 or 110 Hz?

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