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Thread: M1-atx amp control

  1. #1
    Variable Bitrate
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    Exclamation M1-atx amp control

    Anyone else have a problem with the m1-atx stop outputting 12v to the amp turn on pins?

    Mine stopped turning the subs on. So I had to connect it back to the deck since i put the deck back in for now.

  2. #2
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    no one else has the problem? Or have some ideas to why this is happening?

  3. #3
    Constant Bitrate
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    I have never had this problem. One of the pins is ground and the other is +12v. You only need one. Are you connecting the right one?

  4. #4
    FLAC FC3S's Avatar
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    jeez dude, u only waited 3 hours

    but no, i've never had a problem with this either, u checked ur connections i assume?

  5. #5
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    i actually had a similar problem with my M2-Atx.

    With the remote line Not connected to anything the line tested as ~+12V. But when connected to the remote lines of the amps the voltage tested as barely existant. I attempted a current test and found that it did not have the proper current draw for switching on the relays, or as if there was some internal resistance in the circuit thus causing the drop in voltage.

    But since I didnt really need the turn on delay, because i'm running optical with my alpine, I just hooked the remote line to a the Ignition line. Not to mention I also have an active push-button with a relay to turn on the amps so that it's not on only when I push it, and not blasting when I get in after I remote-start my car.
    "In the beginners mind there are many possibilities, but in the experts mind there are few."- Shunryu Suzuki
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  6. #6
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    Thanks for the input. For me it used to work. But you mentioned not enough draw, when i had it working, i had both the stock amp and my sub amp connected to turn on. This time was just the sub amp. But i tested with a multimeter and i get nothing now from those 2 pins. Soi guess that that part went bad or something.

    Thanks

  7. #7
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    Im a total newb when it comes to car PC, but not car audio.
    Multiple amps off one remote turn on is a big no no.
    Try this out:
    1 30amp SPDT Relay
    Connect: #87 to 12V Constant (use proper fuses on this)
    #86 to 12v Remote lead off your PS
    #85 to GND
    #30 to Amps or other devices. (use proper fuses on this)
    Hope this helps

  8. #8
    FLAC
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    Monster, usually a picture helps someone to understand relays when you're referencing terminal numbers.


    You don't really need to fuse #30. and #87 should be to switched power, not constant. This absolutely makes sure that the amps can't turn on if something decides to malfunction (except the relay) when the car's off.

  9. #9
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    In my case the current draw wasnt enough to even run the relay that was triggering all the amps I have
    "In the beginners mind there are many possibilities, but in the experts mind there are few."- Shunryu Suzuki
    "Do it right or don't do it at all"

    PROGRESS:
    [-------90%-] (New Car=New Build)

  10. #10
    Variable Bitrate ramy_zohair's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pancit175
    i actually had a similar problem with my M2-Atx.

    With the remote line Not connected to anything the line tested as ~+12V. But when connected to the remote lines of the amps the voltage tested as barely existant. I attempted a current test and found that it did not have the proper current draw for switching on the relays, or as if there was some internal resistance in the circuit thus causing the drop in voltage.

    Have the same problem. The current just isn't enough.

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