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Thread: Just bought a new amp, distribution block and wiring. Now I have questions.

  1. #31
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    That's the way I thought it was. So in the block, I put fuses that match the fuses in the amps? But they're not even needed right? I could theoretically just put steel bars in there?
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  2. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by Maheriano View Post
    That's the way I thought it was. So in the block, I put fuses that match the fuses in the amps? But they're not even needed right? I could theoretically just put steel bars in there?
    Well it should still be there. If the only fuse between the distro block and the amps are on the amps, then the wire could melt before it gets to the amp and fire. Very unlikely, but why not protect your hundred dollar investments with a $0.50 investment?
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  3. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2k1Toaster View Post
    Well it should still be there. If the only fuse between the distro block and the amps are on the amps, then the wire could melt before it gets to the amp and fire. Very unlikely, but why not protect your hundred dollar investments with a $0.50 investment?
    Ya, I get it, I believe you. I just think the wire is short enough, it's fine. But it's irrelevent, I'll put fuses in there, thanks man. I have no idea where I'll get the fuses though, NAPA? I'll take a look for car customizing shops and see if they have any.
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  4. #34
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    Just wondering what a 5A type fuse looks like. I have really only seen the blade type and the cylindrical type.
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  5. #35
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    SEARCH, NOOB! Just kidding.

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  6. #36
    Fusion Brain Creator 2k1Toaster's Avatar
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    So they are the cylindrical type... Ok, I'll try to find some local to great north...
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  7. #37
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    I'm in Calgary, and I tried Walmart, Home Depot and Canadian Tire. I'm going to try Contemporary Motor Sports and some smaller shops tomorrow. And I'll have to find a 40 amp and 25 amp fuse for the block as well, this isn't going to be easy.
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  8. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by blkwrx View Post
    Its simple. If one amp has a 40amp fuse and the other has a 25amp fuse that's 65amps. If 8GA can only handle 52amps for the 15 feet then you need to run 4ga to a distribution block and 8ga from the distribution block to the amp. Put a 75amp fuse up near the battery and your done.

    (wired, correct me if I'm wrong) The amps will be pulling a combined 65amps through the 4ga wire. When it hits the distribution block 25amps will travel down one 8ga line to one amp and 40amps will travel down the other 8ga line to the other. If any of the lines break and start to pull more than 75amps combined the fuse near the battery will pop and stop everything, saving your car from a flaming death. Its a really simplified explanation but I think in this case it works and was needed.
    Finally, you understand, but it seems Maheriano does or will not.

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  9. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by Maheriano View Post
    I'm in Calgary, and I tried Walmart, Home Depot and Canadian Tire. I'm going to try Contemporary Motor Sports and some smaller shops tomorrow. And I'll have to find a 40 amp and 25 amp fuse for the block as well, this isn't going to be easy.
    You looking in the wrong stores. Those stores won't have the fuses you need. If you don't have a local car audio shop look for a best buy or Canadian equivalent.

    If your distro block is a fused block as toast says you may as well use them. Put a 25-30amp fuse in the line to the MTX and a 40-50 amp fuse in the line to the other.

  10. #40
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    The issue with splitting the lines has to do with the resistance of the wire. Even if the wires are the same gauge and are fused identically, one will have more resistance than the other.

    I'm sure you've heard that electricity travels the path of LEAST resistance. That means your 50 amp draw can pull 30 amps through one line and 20 through the other. If you fuse both at 25 amps, the first one will blow and dump a 50 amp load on the second one, which will overload it and blow the second one, if you're lucky. If you aren't, it will melt the fuse in such a way that keeps the circuit connected and then what happens? The circuit will begin to heat up until the wire itself fails. This may or may not happen prior to the insulation or other parts of your car that are in contact with the wire catch fire. Simply picture in your mind what would happen if that wire was to turn red hot like toaster oven elements do.

    Look at the way your house is set up. You have one big fuse called a fusable link. You don't usually see it because it's inside the breaker box. It takes awhile to overheat it because it is basically a metal bar that melts if you draw too much power. It's what is known as a slow-blow fuse because it doesn't protect the stuff on the circuit, it protects your house from burning down. The power is then split down into lower power individual circuits for the different rooms by routing it from that metal bar to the circuit breakers.

    What you DON'T see is two circuit breakers leading to one socket/circuit. That's because if one trips, the load falls on the second. If the second fails to trip (and this CAN happen), the full load runs through a circuit breaker that isn't designed to handle this kind of power. A fire can easily ensue as the wires heat up and potentially light the insulation and house on fire.

    Your car is the same way. Use BIG wire that can easily carry the load for the full system into your distribution block. That distribution block performs the same function as the breaker box in your home. Split the wires down to the various components that need electricity, but DON'T split a single circuit into two points, then rejoin it back to the component (in your case, the amplifiers).

    If you do, you'll be bypassing the safety that the distribution block is providing you.

    Just to review: BIG wire to distro block, as short as possible. Fuse in distro block to protect the big wire. Smaller wires to your components. Fuse in components to protect smaller wire and components.
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