"People who buy speakers like this are not concerned about imaging or noise cancellation."
wtf is that suppose to mean?
"People who buy speakers like this are not concerned about imaging or noise cancellation."
wtf is that suppose to mean?
well, i can agree with will. if you where ever thinking of putting together a nice sound-system, you'd 've dove into lecture about staging and imaging and never had bought such speakers or sugested such an amp.
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It means that you could care less about how things sound, you just want loud. 2- 3- 4- and 5- way speakers are pointless for Sound Quality IMO. Get a good set of components with a Headunit that has a built in crossover, so you can do an "active" setup (active as opposed to passive - where the crossovers are already predetermined and non changeable). Buy a 4 channel amp for your components too. Be prepared to drop 600+ on just your front speakers
Xenia & Isabelle, totally in love!
'T SQiekenkot: VOLVO 740GL 2.3
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CLARION HX-D2
CLARION APA4300HX => Fountek NeoCd1.0 + TB W4-1337SD
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CLARION APA2100 => Dayton IB385-8
I was not attepting to insult. I'm much more direct when i do thatMy reasoning was indicated by IC
Passive crossovers arent necessarily fixed, but unless you are into car audio, you probably wont know how to change them with out help from someone who knows what they are doing. Yes, you can go active with the amps too, but it is alot easier to do it with the HU or something up front. And my $600 figure was grossly misrepresented - I meant to say that be prepared to spend $600+ on a good 4 ch. amp, Active capable HU, and comps. I spent $70 on tweets, $120 on mids, $230 on a 4 ch. and $300 on a HU, $720 total. I figure you can get them cheaper based upon what you want though, so that's where I got my $600 figure from.
Durk ur durrr. Passive crossovers can only attenuate a signal, active crossovers can amplify or attenuate a signal. Every analog crossover I've ever seen has knobs on it and I don't know too many people with at least 2 fingers on one hand that can't turn a knob. You're talking about the halfass crossover known as an inline filtering capacitor.Passive crossovers arent necessarily fixed, but unless you are into car audio, you probably wont know how to change them with out help from someone who knows what they are doing.
go to a bookstore and buy yourself some books about car-audio and electronics LiquidClen. Every crossover is changable (apart from inline filters as shadow said), so, I think you've never seen an actual X-over closely or you're just spitting around bull**** that you THINK is right. But as you see your pretty wrong. As far as the active wiring goes.... for now I have a ****ty sony HU, with no decent X-over built in so everything's put flat out and I completely let the sound depend on my amps. Once everything is filtered correctly, there shouldn't be any reason to change that, so why should you have a HU with built in X-over? ofcourse it's easy when you use your system for different purpouses, so you can quickly setup things differently, but that isn't the case here...
Xenia & Isabelle, totally in love!
'T SQiekenkot: VOLVO 740GL 2.3
CarPC: none at the moment
CLARION HX-D2
CLARION APA4300HX => Fountek NeoCd1.0 + TB W4-1337SD
CLARION APA4300HX => CSS Trio8
CLARION APA2100 => Dayton IB385-8
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