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Thread: On a 2 channel amp that I plan on bridging, do I need BOTH rca ins?

  1. #31
    Variable Bitrate FyreDaug's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by IC-C30 View Post
    what has the join-date to do with me being a noob or not.... been in to car-audio for the past few years..... I like to do things the right way first-off, rather dan constant trial and error.... research my friend....

    but hey, do as you please.... I mean, it's not my install so why should i give a **** hmmmmm
    i was really ****ed off this morning and your response didnt help, sorry if I went overboard. but seriously, what says it wont sound good? If I give it one signal at 2.8v, or 2 signals at 1.4v id rather have it a little quieter and give it 3x the power for clarity. I dont need it to be 150db's, but I like to turn it up though. EDIT: keep in mind I was giving it 80wx2 before, and now I have the option to see what it would sound like if both of them got 220w

    If you only use the left input that means that it would be less likely to clip would it not? Instead of adding 2 signals together to create the sound and possible have it flat peak you could use 1 higher voltage signal to have a cleaner sound. Gains will be about 25% anyways, it was at about 60-70% when I had 2 speakers off this amp running 80x2, but now I have 2 of the same amps, so I can run it 220x1 x2amps. I admit if I WERE using 1 amp for both speakers having both inputs would be crucial, but in the case of running it 1 channel, it should be fine with 1 input.

    On the case of it cutting voltage half, more than half or a quarter. What would happen to the 2.8V if it were split? What would the output at both ends of the split be? 1.4?

  2. #32
    Variable Bitrate FyreDaug's Avatar
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    And I have this older sony xm250 amp here too, and it is bridgable, giving 150x1, and for inputs it has left as white and underneith it says (mono) and the other input is just a red right one. Saying if it were run in mono mode it would only need that input.... im just saying, cuz im confused about it.

  3. #33
    FLAC
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    What part of less than 50% don't you understand?
    50% of 2.8 is 1.4 so it'd be less than that.

  4. #34
    Constant Bitrate ZtH01's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by FyreDaug View Post
    i was really ****ed off this morning and your response didnt help, sorry if I went overboard. but seriously, what says it wont sound good? If I give it one signal at 2.8v, or 2 signals at 1.4v id rather have it a little quieter and give it 3x the power for clarity. I dont need it to be 150db's, but I like to turn it up though. EDIT: keep in mind I was giving it 80wx2 before, and now I have the option to see what it would sound like if both of them got 220w

    If you only use the left input that means that it would be less likely to clip would it not? Instead of adding 2 signals together to create the sound and possible have it flat peak you could use 1 higher voltage signal to have a cleaner sound. Gains will be about 25% anyways, it was at about 60-70% when I had 2 speakers off this amp running 80x2, but now I have 2 of the same amps, so I can run it 220x1 x2amps. I admit if I WERE using 1 amp for both speakers having both inputs would be crucial, but in the case of running it 1 channel, it should be fine with 1 input.

    On the case of it cutting voltage half, more than half or a quarter. What would happen to the 2.8V if it were split? What would the output at both ends of the split be? 1.4?

    Your theory is all backwards. You want as much input signal as possible... And, you're putting way to much thought into this. I've never hooked a DMM, or O-scope up to the outputs, so I really don't know. But, I can tell you when I unplug one RCA my subs get noticeably quieter. I'm not sure why you'd want to bridge an amp, only to kill most of the output by only using one input. You just adding distortion, complication, and basically wasting an amp.

    If it says you need both, you need both. I'm sure sure there's plenty of odd ball ones out there with different bridging methods.... And I still don't think you mentioned what amp you're actually talking about. But I can tell you that RF and and MTX need both.

    Hook it up, and try it out. If its louder with both, you need both... Just watch out for distortion, and overexcursion, especially when bridging to mids/hights, especially at 200+ watts.
    -ZtH01
    "It's my belief that my big balls should be held every night"

  5. #35
    Variable Bitrate FyreDaug's Avatar
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    Well ill see what happens, its a scosche amp. Mid level amp, they go for about 150 each around here. If I run the gains really low it will help with distortion, the speakers have a built in light in the crossover to absorb clipping.

    I asked about the voltage cut because someone quoted and said "ummmm" making it sound like it wasnt right.

    Do you think 1 amp at 80w2 is better than the 2 amps running 220w? Comparing 80w to 220w is a bit of a difference, and should be a little louder anyways, I see what you mean with only using 1 input being quieter, but it seems to me that it would be less likely to distort at 20% gain getting 1 rca input and bridging to get 220w than having the gain at 70% getting both rca's and running both channels off the amp.

    Like I said though, few weeks time Ill test it out and see what happens.

    If I do decide to go my method would it be in my best interest to get a line booster? Because I will want another amp (75x2) to power the other front components, so ill need to split that rca line anyways if I do that. I wish the front amps had a passthrough, only my sub does

  6. #36
    FLAC XC-C30's Avatar
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    a light in the x-over to absorb clipping..... explane.....
    Xenia & Isabelle, totally in love!

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  7. #37
    Variable Bitrate FyreDaug's Avatar
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    Its basically that... Here ill grab a link to MBQuart PCE216
    http://www.mbquart.com/en/produkte/c...php?nr=pce_216

    FEATURES

    - The Premium coaxial tweeter support allows for rapid conversion of the component speaker into a coaxial system.
    - Wet Powder Coating for the midrange cone
    - Regardless of the wire size or type you can always connect to an MB QUART. Connection types include solder, screw-down, spade or bare wire.
    - High-grade composite baskets made from MB QUART's specially formulated polyamide. The baskets utilize DIN standard mounting positions.
    - The motor assembly is formed into the basket using an insert molding process.
    - Balanced Temperature Technology is used throughout
    - Tweeter level can be adjusted in 2dB steps up to -6dB
    - A light bulb is incorporated into the crossover networks to extend the life of the tweeter by protecting it against overloading.
    - Tweeter with a 25 mm (1") titanium dome with a highly elastic butyl rubber surround
    - Multi-purpose mounting accessories are included
    - Upgrade your midbass with the Add-A-Woofer-System

  8. #38
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    i know of the light he is talking about, run into them all the time working on stage equiptment. Think of it as a fuse, if he over powers his crossover, the "light" recieves too much current draw through it and burns out the filimant, breaching one lead of the crossover's input and cutting the speakers off before they are blown. They work pretty well, just remember to carry a few of the same spec rating while your tweaking with things to get everything all perfect. Same concept as a reset switch on other crossovers, just in a 1 time application.

  9. #39
    Variable Bitrate FyreDaug's Avatar
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    And when they get real bright (the tweets) you can see the bulb glow/pulse with it

    edit: with 220w, im gonna have to be careful

  10. #40
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    just be careful, bright means its close to going.

    Oh btw, i have that amp (just remembered i installed it in a friends car a few days ago) That one does need both channels to get the full volume of it, even in bridged sadly enough. We were hoping for the same as his high to low convertor had a bad channel.

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