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Thread: What kind of cap/amp?

  1. #51
    Maximum Bitrate Megalomaniac's Avatar
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    good read do you mind if i post that post on other forums...of course i'll credit you

    also this comment

    Alternatively, you CAN get a deep cycle battery with the same current delivery capacity as a starter battery, but it will likely not fit in your existing battery tray. So if you were one of those people who relocated their battery to the trunk and just used one or two group sizes UP, then you could use a deep cycle battery as your starter/standby battery as well. But that's more work...
    Are you reffering to my kinetik battery statement? can you go in a bit more depth on this statement?

    how do you feel about using a kinetik under the hook and in the back? how well are they designed internally with the plates and all?

  2. #52
    Maximum Bitrate GoHybrid's Avatar
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    knowledge is free. post away.

    Regarding kinetik batteries: they are simply amped up starter batteries. it even says in their descriptions: more plates, tightly packed cells. That means there's plenty of lead-acid reaction and true to form they will make tons of current on demand, but i guarantee you, those things will let you down in a big way if you don't pay close attention to your charge/discharge habits. That means KEEPING the battery in a high state of charge, ESPECIALLY in cold weather.

    Remember starter batteries don't handle deep cycling well at all, and the more current you get from a battery that doesn't go up in size proportionally (to accomodate thicker plates) is only going to be more susceptible to the effects of sulfation... the fact some retailers refer to it as a deep cycle battery is misleading.

    Another thing to consider is the burden you're going to be placing on your alternator to keep that thing charged and maintained, particularly in addition to an existing battery. Frankly I don't see it happening. I think it's plenty telling that Kinetik offers chargers up to 120A (stupid high amount of current) to recharge their batteries with. Their smallest charger is 25A and even under the best circumstances, they're probably anticipating 4-6 hour charge times for a single battery.

    It doesn't sound from your description like you have 25 amps to spare at idle/cruise conditions for the duration you'd need it.

    I think your problem would be reduced significantly if not eliminated if you got a proper starting battery instead of your yellow top. Even Optima's website shows that for extended times (0-10 seconds) the Red tops can supply nearly 100 amps MORE current than the yellow top. Even an off-the shelf OEM starter battery will deliver more current than a Yellow top within just a few seconds. An extra 100 amps may be all you need.

    So why would you spend $500 on an ADDITIONAL kinetik battery that's going to be more tempermental and impose a bigger load on your alternator when in all reality you could probably spend that same amount and just get a second alternator? I say spend the smart money, ditch your yellow top and get a good starter battery. if you're stuck on brands too, then get an optima red top.
    Et ipsa scientia potestas est.

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  3. #53
    Maximum Bitrate Megalomaniac's Avatar
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    How about this, i purchase a red top place that under the hood and and throw the yellow in the trunk? But i am worried about what u said about charging and i have no way of isolating that battery without hookin it up to the hoodbattery to get charged through the alty

  4. #54
    Maximum Bitrate GoHybrid's Avatar
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    all i'm saying is that I don't think you need two batteries if you have the right one to begin with. If you are more than 100 amps deficient when your bass hits, I imagine you'd see worse problems than dimming lights.

    the topic of battery isolation has been covered before, but isolating one battery from the other doesn't eliminate the need to maintain a charge properly on both of them. Remember you're trying to free up as many spare amps as you can in between hits. batteries are, by nature, slow to recover and won't take best advantage of the kind of power your alternator CAN produce.

    If you can't isolate your batteries at all, then you're going to have a completely different issue where one battery has a higher state of charge than the other unless they're exactly the same battery. then the higher battery will try and charge the lower battery and i assure you it won't give a hoot about maximum charging current. So that means you can get lots of heat and overcurrent which are sure to diminish if not destroy your batteries.
    Et ipsa scientia potestas est.

    Worklog for my 2007 Civic Si ...f*** it...
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  5. #55
    Maximum Bitrate Megalomaniac's Avatar
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    Can you point me to a particular thread that covers isolating a battery. also id liek an extra battery for more reserve power when engine is off. so yellow in the trunk not be worthy?

  6. #56
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    well here's my problem. recently after i got done rewiring some wires, a day or 2 later my battery light started blinking (like a warning message) from my dash in my 01 tahoe. Then my car just died and when the tow guy came, he told me it was the alternator that had gone out. So the next day I got my alternator replaced and later that day when I started driving around, the battery light came on again, and the gauge that shows the volts showed the needle going down and after I turned off my stereo, a couple minutes later the needle went back to where it "should" be (a little past the middle line). Is there a way for me to control or regulate how much power is being used from my battery so that I won't have to risk my alternator from breaking or too much power being drained from my battery? thanks.

  7. #57
    Maximum Bitrate GoHybrid's Avatar
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    a yellow top for reserve power is fine, but make sure a couple things happen:

    1. your single yellow top is not cutting it for current delivery, so with engine off you're even further up ***** creek without adding another yellow top in parallel. Still not a big expense compared to those kinetik batteries. The only reason not to do this is if you are going to include your starter battery in the equation... but again we'd be back to deep-cycling your starter battery which is no good.

    2. you have to isolate your starter battery from your reserve batteries. What some people do is set up their stereo so it ONLY draws from the deep cycle batteries and by way of various methods of isolation prevent the starter battery from entering the equation at all.

    As far as a thread goes... if you went ahead and searched "battery isolation" you probably would have found this. Or "tank circuit" and found this.
    Et ipsa scientia potestas est.

    Worklog for my 2007 Civic Si ...f*** it...
    Pictures of the Corolla (retired)here
    Need to make something? Here are a few ideas.

  8. #58
    Maximum Bitrate GoHybrid's Avatar
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    Asong31: We need a little more information about what's happening in your car.

    First of all, what were you rewiring?

    Second, how many amps do you have and what are their RMS power ratings?

    Third, do you have a single battery or multiple batteries? If multiple, how are they configured relative to everything else. If single, when is the last time you replaced it?

    Fourth, do you have any accessories, i.e. fog lights, inverters etc... running?

    Lastly, what is the hot rating of your alternator? In other words, how many amps can it produce AT IDLE after it has warmed up? If you can't find that, then get us whatever rating appears on the label.

    Alot of things can contribute to your power drain, but given that your battery light is blinking and your alternator keeps crapping out, i'd be tempted to make a snap judgement that your battery is toast. Alternators will work very hard to charge a battery, and if the battery isn't having any of it, sometimes the alternator can just work itself to death by working in excess of it's duty cycle.
    Et ipsa scientia potestas est.

    Worklog for my 2007 Civic Si ...f*** it...
    Pictures of the Corolla (retired)here
    Need to make something? Here are a few ideas.

  9. #59
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    ok, after work today I will post the details of what I have going on in my car. Thanks for your guy's help by the way.

  10. #60
    Maximum Bitrate Megalomaniac's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GoHybrid View Post
    a yellow top for reserve power is fine, but make sure a couple things happen:

    1. your single yellow top is not cutting it for current delivery, so with engine off you're even further up ***** creek without adding another yellow top in parallel. Still not a big expense compared to those kinetik batteries. The only reason not to do this is if you are going to include your starter battery in the equation... but again we'd be back to deep-cycling your starter battery which is no good.

    2. you have to isolate your starter battery from your reserve batteries. What some people do is set up their stereo so it ONLY draws from the deep cycle batteries and by way of various methods of isolation prevent the starter battery from entering the equation at all.

    As far as a thread goes... if you went ahead and searched "battery isolation" you probably would have found this. Or "tank circuit" and found this.
    after skiming through those threads(i'll read them thoroughly later on) one guy said all i need is a diode...

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