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Thread: Splittin' a 4g into 4g or....?

  1. #1
    FLAC sdashiki's Avatar
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    Splittin' a 4g into 4g or....?

    Ive currently have a 4g power wire running my car's length to the 5 channel amp in the back.

    When I swap it out for 2 amps, each needing 4g power connections....

    is splitting my current 4g wire into two 4gs

    like this

    a good idea?

    or would it be better to go 2g or 1/0 and split that into 4g?


    I guess the question would be is splitting a wire into two wires of the same gauge as the original wire, a good idea?
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  2. #2
    MySQL Error scott_fx's Avatar
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    what are the fuse ratings on the amps?
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  3. #3
    FLAC sdashiki's Avatar
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    JL 300/4 - 40A

    JL 250/1 - 30A

    recommended Fuse type


    for my own info, why is this important and what does this mean for my engine compartment fuse, its rating?
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  4. #4
    FLAC XC-C30's Avatar
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    shouldn't be any problem to split it to even 2x 8gauge, if you're not planning on running kilometers/miles of wire.
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  5. #5
    MySQL Error scott_fx's Avatar
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    for your engine compartment fuse you just want to add up the fuses in your system. so for your system you need an 70 amp fuse (if you're going to run a m1-atx psu off that distro block, you'll need an 80 amp fuse) at the battery.

    the amperage and length of wire determines what gauge you'll need.
    New System in progress:
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  6. #6
    FLAC XC-C30's Avatar
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    but scott, since he's alread running a 4gauge all the way through it won't really matter, as long as he keeps the added wires as short as possible.
    Xenia & Isabelle, totally in love!

    'T SQiekenkot: VOLVO 740GL 2.3

    CarPC: none at the moment
    CLARION HX-D2
    CLARION APA4300HX => Fountek NeoCd1.0 + TB W4-1337SD
    CLARION APA4300HX => CSS Trio8
    CLARION APA2100 => Dayton IB385-8

  7. #7
    FLAC sdashiki's Avatar
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    You can understand NOT wanting to purchase 1/0 and re-run it (the **** is like as thick as a quarter is in diameter).

    Id be taking the current 4g wire, cutting it back by about 3 feet, splitting it into two 4gs and using the 3 feet or so to connect to the 2 amps.

    no carputer yet, this is my gut the car, RAAMAT it, re-arrange the wires and amps.

    no loot for the carpute, sound is first in my book.


    Side question:

    what do you prefer, a split ground block or single wires to same grounding point (bolt)?
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  8. #8
    Car Audio Moderator durwood's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sdashiki View Post
    what do you prefer, a split ground block or single wires to same grounding point (bolt)?

    Whatever is easier or looks cleaner. Stay away from seat belt bolts because they are coated in grease. You could bolt it somewhere else using your own bolt through a section of sheet metal with the paint off.

    You should be fine with the 4 gauge. You can split it into two 4G or 8g if you keep it short like IC said.

  9. #9
    MySQL Error scott_fx's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by IC-C30 View Post
    but scott, since he's alread running a 4gauge all the way through it won't really matter, as long as he keeps the added wires as short as possible.
    yup i agree, i was just trying to enlighten him on why i wanted to know what fuses were on the amps.

    here is another useful page for anyone doing a search in the future:
    http://www.the12volt.com/info/recwirsz.asp
    New System in progress:
    M10k
    Phaze TD1500 ~> Dynaudio MD130
    Phaze TD1500 ~> Seas g18rnx/p
    Zapco Ref 500.1 ~ 12" tc-9
    Behringer DCX2496 ~ Envision Electronics psu
    Transflective Xenarc

    My Car Pc Install
    My Boat Pc worklog

  10. #10
    FLAC sdashiki's Avatar
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    Thanks, ill be buying the stinger 4g to two 4g splitter and running two seperate grounds to the same point.

    the ground point is already done and in use with my current amp.


    would the battery fuse be better off going higher than equal?

    Like if i need 70A would getting 90 or 100A be a bad idea?
    (0.0%-) starting over
    iPad 3G 64GB, RF 600.5 amp, JL10W0V2, 8 Infinity Components

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