what size are your amp's internal fuses? what size is your stock alt?
What size alternator do any of you recommend for me. I want to hookup one JL Audio 300/4 Amp ( front and rear speakers ) and one JL Audio 1000/1 amp ( two 10w7's in trunk ). I believe thats a total of 1300 watts. This is going in a 65 Mustang without airconditioning, power windows , locks , etc... Thank You!!
what size are your amp's internal fuses? what size is your stock alt?
Xenia & Isabelle, totally in love!
'T SQiekenkot: VOLVO 740GL 2.3
CarPC: none at the moment
CLARION HX-D2
CLARION APA4300HX => Fountek NeoCd1.0 + TB W4-1337SD
CLARION APA4300HX => CSS Trio8
CLARION APA2100 => Dayton IB385-8
Are you going for SQ/SPL/Streetbass, are you planning on competing and if so, at what level?
If it's just for a personal system rather than competition, I'd say stick with standard and see how it works out.. uprate the battery/stock wiring first as it's a lot cheaper. If you still have a reason to want to upgrade the alternator later, you can do so..
Also, be aware that a 150A aftermarket alternator isn't necessarily better than a 100A stock one.. if the stock one puts out 80% of its current at idle and the 150A one only puts out 50% at idle, you'll probably find the OE one is better in practise (and OE ones usually have a higher output ratio at idle than aftermarket ones, although not always).
HTH
Mark
not sure about interal fuse but:
In the back of the owners manual it says:
for the 1000/1 amp - General specifications Recommended fuse value 100a
recommended fuse type ANL
for the 300/4 amp - General specifications Recommended fuse value 40a
recommended fuse type AGU or Maxifuse
I have a 100 amp alternator I was going to use but not sure if its big enough. The stock one I am sure is to small something like 60amp.
hope this helps.
I'd find out what your currenct Alt puts out. Are your lights dimming when the bass hits? if so then you pretty much need a new alternator. Adding a second battery or capacitor is a band aid solution to the problem, but not a solution.
doesn't make any difference if you're going to compete or not..... the output won't change.... so I wouldn't know why anyone would ask..... you could do with your stock alt. search for "big 3" on the forum here. I'd start with that before looking onto an other alt. If you're eperiencing any trouble after you're sure all wiring is correct, THAN upgrade to a bigger alt.
edit: If you already have the 100amp alt lying around, you could use thhat one... do the big 3with that one and you should be fine for sure!
Xenia & Isabelle, totally in love!
'T SQiekenkot: VOLVO 740GL 2.3
CarPC: none at the moment
CLARION HX-D2
CLARION APA4300HX => Fountek NeoCd1.0 + TB W4-1337SD
CLARION APA4300HX => CSS Trio8
CLARION APA2100 => Dayton IB385-8
A two farad cap will definately do the trick, however with that old of a vehicle a bigger alternator will help, i would also throw in a Redtop Optima or equivalent battery...
"Its not the size of the alternator that counts, its how well you work it"
-David69Leonard-
Quote of the day
unfortunatly you're totally wrong......
Xenia & Isabelle, totally in love!
'T SQiekenkot: VOLVO 740GL 2.3
CarPC: none at the moment
CLARION HX-D2
CLARION APA4300HX => Fountek NeoCd1.0 + TB W4-1337SD
CLARION APA4300HX => CSS Trio8
CLARION APA2100 => Dayton IB385-8
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