its all about Efficiency![]()
Heck, if we're just going off of power, I guess my Focal Beryllium tweeters suck. Heck, the Focal Beryllium No 5, 6, and 7 kits must suck compared to most other. My Focal 16" sub must suck too compared to some of those SPL subs out there.
amen to that!For example, I bought some 6.5 subwoofers that looked great for the specs, but damn were they grossly inefficient, didn't play as smoothly as my previous set of 6.5"s and didn't actually play as low either, even though the specs suggested it.
playing the spec game is all good and fine to give you a start. However, you should NEVER base your oponions purely on specs. Time and time again they have been proven to be grossly misleading.
Jan Bennett
FS: VW MKIV Bezel for 8" Lilliput - 95% Finished
Please post on the forums! Chances are, someone else has or will have the same questions as you!
Also of good note-another thread on shallow subs for recommendations:
Expert opinions needed on Pioneer TS-SW2541D Shallow Subwoofers
Added: Also depth on the XTEC are 0.5" more than the pioneer I think? Might have a problem with mounting depth. The "best" speaker is the one that works best for the needs and application.
System always under construction
They are both ok subs, I just think the xtecs sound better. I pointed out the specs because nobody believes statements like that over the internet. I guess just read some reviews and do some of your own research.
Also exile is a very good company in general. Here's a response somebody posted from another thread...
i have a pair of x2400.1's they are some beasts and very solid well worth the money
ive heard a pair of xtec 6.5 and imo they sound as good as rainbows and cdt's that i had and were twice as much
customer service is stellar you can call almost anytime and talk to the owners/engineers morgan or brian they are very helpfull and knowledgeable....
2 things...
1 spec sheet's are not going to tell which is better...
2 chances are, in a door, you'll never be able to run these at full power handling anyway..., nor anywere near ideal conditions that resulted in the spec's to begin with....
I have a pair off illusion audio 10's in my front doors.... there is a ton of work necissary to have a configuration like this work though.... the doors need a lot of work or your doors will make more noise than the speakers.... any noise the door makes is a direct negative effect on the overall sound quality... so the speaker is NOT your limiting factor anyway belive it or not, untill the point that you have your doors 100% truly dead...
truth is, this is impractical to acheave on a car door that is still going to be used as a car..... add to this the fact that there is very little you can do to a door as a whole to affect the air volume of the enclosure, & the enclosure will leak, no question about that... all this means that the specs are even more useless in a real world aplication....
BOTTOM LINE:
my nd-10's can handle over 350w rms... my doors can barely handle them at 150 watts, & adding more power will take away rather than improve, unless i do a bit more reinforcing & adding more weight & other measures to seal better & make more ridgid....
if this was a competition vehicle I may persue the next level, but as my little street car it's good enough for me, I already have an extensive amount of work done to my doors, & they are pretty heavy as is... they close like a vault![]()
MY NEWEST INSTALL:modded infiniti fx with big screen
first windows carpc install........my liquid cooled LVDS screen :D
meh...I think door subs are pointless either way, so buy whatever you want.
yeah, I agree, subs in the doors suck.... unless there not being used as subs...
if there being used as woofers though, & if they play pretty far up, it gets better... pair this with a 5 1/4 kick & your getting somewhere... assuming you can deal with a 3 way front stage...
if they play all the way up to 800htz, & your horns play from 750 up, they become friggin great
there is a huge advantage to having a front stage play low.... 8's are usually enough for a sane install.... the average car will not work with 10's for sure, & the average guy who wants to put 10's in, probably doesn't realize what he's getting into... so yeah, door subs can suck... sometimes... or maybe even most times.... but if you could sit in my car you would see that they can also work wonders too, in the right conditions....
MY NEWEST INSTALL:modded infiniti fx with big screen
first windows carpc install........my liquid cooled LVDS screen :D
i dont think you would have the airspace for a 10, if u go sealed then expect a tuff time sealing unless u do FG
as a sub, the airspace in the door is too large, not to small...
the end result is what's called an infinite baffle though, & also dictates less power handling than specs, which assume a proper enclosure to be able to handle the max RMS rated... because the enclosure is too large, the sub will over travel & hit it's mechanical limits way before max RMS can even be reached....
there wouldn't be enough room for it's own enclosure for sure.... the door is the enclosure....
MY NEWEST INSTALL:modded infiniti fx with big screen
first windows carpc install........my liquid cooled LVDS screen :D
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