Wiring a Subwoofer

**ripp18** · 01-20-2007, 01:29 AM

the parallel is what i meant oops

and the manual for the amp is sitting right in from...it actually says:
"14.4 V (11-16 V allowable)"

**XC-C30** · 01-20-2007, 01:35 AM

Originally Posted by ripp18

the parallel is what i meant oops

and the manual for the amp is sitting right in from...it actually says:
"14.4 V (11-16 V allowable)"

Focus on the (11 - 16 V allowable). That's the fluctuation I was talking about. That 14.4 V just means they measured the output at 14.4 V instead of 12 V

**ripp18** · 01-20-2007, 01:36 AM

so how does that affect my install?

**XC-C30** · 01-20-2007, 01:40 AM

well, the fluctuation results also in a power-fluctuation, meaning: power drops, volume drops/power raises, volume raises. But don't worry, if you're wiring is correct, you won't notice the fluctuation.

**ripp18** · 01-20-2007, 01:43 AM

and lastly, do you know of any good installation faqs or guides with running wires and hooking up power to the battery? thats my only problem part...the battery

**ripp18** · 01-20-2007, 01:46 AM

i know where to the the preout wires, power control wire, speaker wires, and the ground wire, but im lost on the battery. i havea 2 gauge power acoustiks wiring kit

**XC-C30** · 01-20-2007, 01:46 AM

phooooh..... I'd look here for starters

edit: and search for "big 3" on this (and other) forum(s)

**ripp18** · 01-20-2007, 01:48 AM

# 20-ft, 2-gauge, clearred power cable
# 3-ft, 2-gauge, clearblack ground cable
# 33-ft, 12-gauge, clear speakercable
# 17-ft, blue turn-on cable
# 17-ft, shielded, clear blue RCA cable
# AGU fuseholder with 80-amp AGU fuse

thats my kit...

**XC-C30** · 01-20-2007, 01:53 AM

You'll have to put in a bigger fuse (100 amps). 80 will do also, but It is possible your mp will cut out too soon....

actually, the powerwiring and ground are bad also..... Too small, if you're planning on using the full 20' that is... you actually need 1gauge....

**ripp18** · 01-20-2007, 02:00 AM

my car isnt 10 feet long so i have plenty of cord
i was reading on one of the sites in those links:
"Making the Connections to the Power Source:
Most amplifiers draw significant amounts of current (too much current to be drawn from the vehicle's fuse box). This means that you will have to make a connection to a more suitable point. Most of the time, the main power wire is connected to the battery's positive terminal. Since the battery is capable of supplying more than 1000 amps of current and your power wire can't likely safely carry that much current, you MUST have an inline fuse (this can not be stressed enough). The fuse must be rated to protect the power wire being used. If the power wire was unfused and accidentally shorted to ground, the wire and the vehicle would soon be fully engulfed in flames. The fuse holder should be between 6 and 18 inches from the battery. If it's too close to a standard lead acid battery, the fuse and holder may corrode like the positive battery terminal does. If it's too far away, it will not provide the required protection because there is too much unprotected wire (between the battery and the fuse)."

how big of a fuse will i need to get at homedepot hah?

and i dont think the gauge will be a problem; my friend is running 2 types-rs at full power (1000rms) and is using the same wiring kit