Amp help...

**Stang70Fastback** · 03-08-2007, 05:06 PM

No, that's not quite my setup. Here - try this:

BATTERY---------------SWITCH------------------------ B+
.................................................. .............'--------- REMOTE
.................................................. ...........................GND-------------o

I was told I could use ONE wire and splice it at the end for both B+ and REMOTE. In other words, the wire goes through the switch then splits to go to both of those ports.

And I thought the higher-gauge wire was better lol - cause its more expensive, isn't it? Shows how much I know.

**J187** · 03-08-2007, 05:16 PM

The HIGHER the guage number, the THINNER the wire. Kinda counterintuitive, I know. You COULD do what you are asking. But its not really good practice. If you are going to do it, do this. Run your 10 or 8 awg from the battery into the trunk. Make sure you put the requiset inline fuse just after the battery. Now you'll need a 12volt switch that will accept 10+awg wire? I just don't recommend it. I would run seperate wires like I suggested. Its a LITTLE extra work and its a lot safer and easier in the long run. AND, you'll at least have the added switching of the ignition. Remember, if you use a switch on the constant hot feed of the battery, ALL DAY when your car is not one, the switch is heating and heating.

**EricE** · 03-08-2007, 05:28 PM

Originally Posted by J187

The HIGHER the guage number, the THICKER the wire.

errr....
You might want to revisit that one.

**2k1Toaster** · 03-08-2007, 05:29 PM

well the counter-intuitive part is right.

**J187** · 03-08-2007, 05:32 PM

HAHA he tripped me up. That was some bugs bunny Sh##.

All these years of Car Audio install and deisgn and I've been screwing people on the wiring left(holds up right hand) and right(holds up left hand). ..

Eric, maybe remove that quote from your post in case someone see's only that and thinks its correct....

**Stang70Fastback** · 03-08-2007, 05:56 PM

Well, now I'm not sure whats right... lol.

Anyway, plain and simple, if I want to keep this thing COMPLETELY separate from my car other than using the battery, HOW SHOULD I DO IT? How's that? Srry if I'm just being stupid, but I just don't wanna short anything out.

**dskel** · 03-09-2007, 09:01 AM

I wasnt saying that they dont make good grounds I have my amps hooked up through seat bolts what I am saying is that they need to be cleaned up and have the paint removed around the metal; also the bolts are prelubricated from the factory and that will collect dust and debris that needs to be cleaned to ensure proper grounding. Most people just slam a connector on the end and attach to the bolts. You can even ohm it out and still get a decent connection but cleaning the area will prolong the effective usage of the grounding point.

**dskel** · 03-09-2007, 09:19 AM

Ok the quick and simple way:

1. Run your B+ (Power constant) from the battery (fused of course) back to your amp. (Dont hook up until you have all the wires run and ready to go in; last wire to hook up)

2. Run ground to some point in the car that has a reliable source of ground (remember to clean the area up an try to get a bare metal connection free of any debris.

3. Easiest way to accomplish this would be to use the remote line from your head unit remote line. Locate that harness and probe with multimeter while key is off (should be 0VDC) turn key to Acc and shuld jump to 12VDC bam cut that one and run that back to the amp.

Make sure that you are running the power wires and audio SEPERATE as in power on left side and audio on right side of car. If not then you will be in here asking about humming/static in your speakers in a few days.

Hope that clears it up for you; I would strongly suggest not using the switch for remote line in amp cause you will forget it one day and come out to a dead battery. Had that setup in car before cause I was lazy and didnt want to trace remote line and ended up replacing battery (forgot a few times!!

)so take the little time and hook it up right.

**Stang70Fastback** · 03-09-2007, 04:51 PM

OK, thanks. By the way, I was talking with my dad, and we were trying to figure out the amps/volts that would go through the wire if I had that one wire spliced to go into both jacks on the amp.

I assumed it would be still 12 Volts - even though its feeding two 12 V lines... if I am not mistaken, that doesn't change. As for the amps tho - I'm clueless... any guesses?

**J187** · 03-09-2007, 05:14 PM

Originally Posted by dskel

3. Easiest way to accomplish this would be to use the remote line from your head unit remote line. Locate that harness and probe with multimeter while key is off (should be 0VDC) turn key to Acc and shuld jump to 12VDC bam cut that one and run that back to the amp.

I think you missed the part of the thread where he says he wants to avoid the neccessity of having the radio on to power the amp.... And that he doesn't want to use the remote turn on. IF he did, then It would have saved me 4 or 5 posts...

Also, your information is not exactly accurate. If you are looking at the remote out from the HU, it will not be powered and nonpowered as you turn the ignition on and off. It will require two events to be satisfied in order to send voltage.
1. The ignition to be turned on (Providing the HU is properly wired)
2. The HU to be ON. If the head unit is off, it wouldn't matter if you're going 80 down the highway, the amp will be off too.

Stang - the current will be the same. You're making much more out of this than you have to. What exactly about my advice do you not like? I can alter it if it didn't work for you, but I've explained the best and safeset way to do this.