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Thread: YES!!! Yet Another Amp Problem

  1. #11
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    would the remote to 12v line trick be safe to leave connected while i test the rest of the system? When i dissconntect it the amp shuts off so im thinking to hook it in while i test the speakers.

    I did find this diagram of my factory head unit harness.

    http://ww2.legendtuner.com:8080/LEGE.../BOSE_deck.jpg

    Could anyone tell me which line to cut into to use as a remote line? I do not see any wire labeld IGN. thanks

  2. #12
    FLAC XC-C30's Avatar
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    I wouldn't leave the remote in the power terminal for too long. Being it's a very thin wire, you could melt it, or in the worst case damage your system. The remote wire is only there to give a pulse signal so the amp turns on.

    And I think you'll have to tap into the A5, but I'm not sure, so better wait to do so till someone can confirm this.
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  3. #13
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    the wire won't melt it's only going to pass as much current as the remote terminal asks for. you can use the method that you used to test your amp to turn the amp on while you're setting everything up. that post asks for millamps and wont rise any higher regardless of what your volume is
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  4. #14
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    OK i used that as a temp to see if all my speakers were functioning properly and they sound great. My only concern is there is a pretty loud fuzz that you can hear while no music is playing. It is not an alternator whine because i started the car up and reved it and it did not affect the fuzzy noise. I messed with the input levels but this doesnt seem to affect the volume of the fuzz, only the sound when im playing something. Is there another setting on the amp that i could adjust to eliminate this fuzzy noise? again thank you

  5. #15
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    There is a yellow/white wire that comes from the back of your stock radio, and turns on both your power antenna system and your factory amplifier (located left side of the rear seat). Use that wire. Input impedence of the remote input terminal connection on the amps is very high. No worries, even if you connect to that wire back there at the factory amp.

    Quote Originally Posted by CaptainTrap View Post
    OK i used that as a temp to see if all my speakers were functioning properly and they sound great. My only concern is there is a pretty loud fuzz that you can hear while no music is playing. It is not an alternator whine because i started the car up and reved it and it did not affect the fuzzy noise. I messed with the input levels but this doesnt seem to affect the volume of the fuzz, only the sound when im playing something. Is there another setting on the amp that i could adjust to eliminate this fuzzy noise? again thank you

    I always keep a ground loop isolator handy to put inline between RCAout of Radio and RCAin of Amplifier just if there is fuzz, as a troubleshooting aid. You can get one at radiocrack pretty cheap.
    It's been a while...

  6. #16
    FLAC J187's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by CaptainTrap View Post
    So you say to connect the ground wire leaving the amp to the 12v line entering the amp? And this will tell me if the amp is good or not? Sorry for the ignorance and thanks for the help.
    YES, absolutely. If you hook up the ground to a power line it will DEFINITELY tell you if your amp is bad or not. It will tell you that the amp is BAD, at least now it is.
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  7. #17
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    RE: Just curious...

    If you connect the remote power-on from your headunit, your amp won't power on unless the car in ACC or running AND your stereo is on. You are testing it with the keys in and the stereo on, aren't you?

    If you are using the remote antenna to turn on the amp, some headunits only send power to this line if the radio is the source. If you set it to CD or auxiliary input, it may not be sending power to turn the amp on.

    Also, IC-C30 is incorrect, the signal to the amp from the remote wire or antenna on is not a pulse signal, but a constant 12V current.

    Good luck

  8. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Thefdog View Post
    If you connect the remote power-on from your headunit, your amp won't power on unless the car in ACC or running AND your stereo is on. You are testing it with the keys in and the stereo on, aren't you?

    If you are using the remote antenna to turn on the amp, some headunits only send power to this line if the radio is the source. If you set it to CD or auxiliary input, it may not be sending power to turn the amp on.

    Also, IC-C30 is incorrect, the signal to the amp from the remote wire or antenna on is not a pulse signal, but a constant 12V current.

    Good luck
    the remote wire is a switched 12v signal. Not constant. If it was constant, then there would be no purpose to it now would there!
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  9. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Thefdog View Post
    If you are using the remote antenna to turn on the amp, some headunits only send power to this line if the radio is the source. If you set it to CD or auxiliary input, it may not be sending power to turn the amp on.
    Good luck
    Since this particular car has its stock amplifier and antenna switched on from the same lead, that is not the case.

    And I do believe that yellow/white wire is constant 12V when the stereo is ON.
    It's been a while...

  10. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by h3rk View Post
    Since this particular car has its stock amplifier and antenna switched on from the same lead, that is not the case.

    And I do believe that yellow/white wire is constant 12V when the stereo is ON.
    yes constant when the stereo is on, but overall it is a switched line meaning not always 12v. it switched depending on the state of the radio.
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