Mike, thanks for the info - yeah, I saw that on a couple of other data sheets for some other LCDs I have but, as you pointed out, there isn't a complete data sheet around for this screen. From what I can piece together, that doesn't come in to play with this screen. I was looking at a few controllers that works for this panel and it is listed as no connection or test.
Mike, how are you making out with your controller? Which panel are you trying to hook up?
How small are the wires actually in this flat flex ribbon cable? Probably too small to strip carefully and tie into a wire leading to an IDE, huh? I really wanna play with it some until I can get a good hirose cable lol
What do yall think about this backlight power inverter that I got with it? It's got 5 red wires running out of it that are supposed to hook to the power somehow, but I can't find a spec sheet on it anywhere.. and there isn't any label on it as to which wire goes to what power. On the back of it is "RD-P-0429" & google doesn't show but one link and it doesn't have anything for it. Any ideas?
Oh nevermind the backlight inverter bit. I finally found a PDF on it by searching for some different numbers that I found on it. Appears it's made by Taiyo Yuden...
Ok so I found this diagram of my backlight inverter and I'm really not quite sure about what it's saying: http://www.t-yuden.com/pdfs/ccflinve...ccfl-ls380.pdf
From what it looks like, to do it w/o the switch they talk about, I hook
P5: wired to P4 with a 10k whatever inbetween the two?
I dunno.. that's how I see it. I should be able to hook that right into my svga controller I imagine.. we'll see. Someone check that pinout for me?? Thanks!:D
I don't know about the on/off stuff (just try giving it ground and then try 5v and see which one works) but the rest looks fine. You'd want to put a pot between pin 4 and 5, but if you want it always at full brightness you can just connect the two pins (hence giving 0 resistance).
I am reading it as follows:
to get power, you'll have to connect:
1 to ground(pin# 3 or else I don't think it will get the signal to turn on - you could ad a switch to turn it on when you want.) Works kinda like a remote for an amp
2 to 12v
3 to ground
4 conected to 5 as far as I can tell - that will allow for maximum output current of 7.5mA
edited for search purposes.
I got it working! I just connected pins 1,3,4,5 together to the GND and pin 2 to 12v. That backlight popped right on :D looks awesome LOL I'm tearing apart an IDE cable right now.. just to play a little.. and that red LED on the controller sure is blinkin away cuz the LCD isn't connected. I've got it wired into the PC I'm on right now lol.. I hope it is't pulling too much power from the psu.. shouldn't be. So any ideas on what I should do for the hirose? Might break down and get that one that infrared told about for $36.. even though I only need the hirose connector with some empty wire on it...
Here's a couple pics.. just for interest. Sorry about the size, forgot the bump down the camera from 3mp :rolleyes:
Can see my torn up ide cable that I'm not gonna do anything with.. was just messing :cool:
Well, after a trip to Frys for a two dollar 15 pin connector (which turned into a $200 trip like usual), I now have a working display.... They really do work just like infrared promised...
Here are some pics:
I now have to try and play around with the adjustment buttons to get everything right but it looks great and even though its only a 18 bit screen, video looks very nice and smooth...
I only have it temporarily hooked up to a generic Inverter (with no adjustments) and only one of the backlight tubes but it still looks nice...
My display is a Sharp lq104v1dg11 which is a 10.4", 350 NIT, 300:1 contrast, 262144 color display
Awesome! Good job Mike.. Glad to see everything worked out okay..
I have a small batch of 3 controllers coming in next week sometime, and 1 is claimed already. That means 2 are still available, first come first serve. Email me at [email protected] if you are interested in one. Price is $100 shipped.