Did you guys ever figure out the hirose->idc cable situation?
I have a 6.4" sharp LCD with a 31pin hirose.
infrared: did you get any of those cables in?
I'm thinking of grabbing the connector from digikey, if its not too much of a pain in the *** to hook up to it.... Maybe run to the used electronics store and pick up a few broken laptops for parts.. we'll see
Hey guys.. Sorry I haven't been replying to emails or PMs but have been extremely busy with school..
Here's an update on the whole situation regarding more controllers and the cables:
- I have the LAST batch of 5-6 controllers coming in next week sometime. In this batch, I am also receiving some LCD screens (model/size/brightness unknown as of yet, have to wait for it to arrive). I'm thinking about selling these remaining controllers in a kit consisting of the controller, LCD, inverter, and cables.
- I ordered the DF9M connectors which is a connector (31pin) that allows discrete (bare separate) wires to be connected to it. They recommended not trying to create cables with these without the proper equipment because it would be difficult, but I'll see how it is when they come in. Scheduled date of arrival is 4/14. If you are interested in a connector, the price is 5 bucks shipped.
- If you are interested in just an inverter, email me at firstname.lastname@example.org and I'll arrange the payment. I have a ton of these so I won't be running out anytime soon..
Thanks for all your business!
I finally have all of the "correct" connectors from Digikey. The 31 pin DF9 looks like it's gonna be a ****** to wire. The pins coming off of it are spaced @ 1mm. I gotta find a really fine soldering tip and one of those large, lighted magnifying glasses.
I'm still looking for answers to my previous questions from anyone who already has their controller working.
I have mine working just fine. can I ask why you need to build a remote adjustment board? It keeps all the settings in memory even if you lose power.
I didn't realize that. I guess I really don't need a remote board after all.
Which pins did you jumper at JP3 for the voltage select? Mine aren't marked. I guess I could experiment with it since my panel is 5v.
Infrared, I tried to email you but the address wasnt working?
Anyways, I am interested if you have any of those controllers left over.
I am going to be using it with a Sharp 10.4" Color Active LCD, Model: LQ10D367, Sharp Inverter, GCMK-G3XELO Touchscreen IntelliTouch SCN-IT, Old P/N: 0027801A-684B, New P/N:062899-000, ELO Touchsystems Controller, P/N: 002310, Model: E281-2310.
Woudl it be compatible?
Let me know please.
VR - Yup, that'll work. Did you read through this thread? I think there's something in it about the hirose cables he's selling. There was also the possibility of getting a pin compatible hirose from Quadrangle. I think I posted the pin out for that panel in this thread as I am using the same one. Read through it and you'll see.
If anyone is still looking for the Inverter Connector I found one in a dead Compaq Presario 1200 screen. You actually get two out of it. I couldn't find a JAE seller who wouldn't sell in lots of less than 1000. They wouldn't even sample one to help a lost soul.
Also, the Hirose connectors that Infrared has/had work great. You just won't be able to use a standard ribbon cable, the diameter is too big. I think it takes about a 28ga wire. I ended up using one of those round IDE cables. It's tedious but nowhere near the headache as trying to solder the Hirose connector I got from Digikey.
On another note, I have the controller and inverter wired to my LQ104V1DG11 but I must have something wired incorrectly because it's not working right.
When I power it up, I can see the windows splash screen but it's a pretty crazy image (not steady). After about 30~45 seconds it appears that the controller shuts off. Neither of the lights are flashing. I'll play with it more and triple check all of my connections, but maybe someone can offer a quick fix.
Well I finally hooked everything up and something is not right
When I power on the board, the lights flash as they should. I see the LCD panel flash and then thats it.. Nothing comes out on the display. I have infrared's inverter and I gave it 12v... Was i supposed to only give 5v? I found a spec somewhere online that said +12v for the inverter.... I am not sure...
Another thing is that the DC1 transistor gets REALLY REALLY REALLY hot... is that normal??? I can't figure out wtf is going on.... Any ideas?? What jumper settings do i need to setup??
I have the sharp lq64d343 lcd panel.. It has the same pinout as the 10.4" one that someone posted, so i just used infrared's pinout.
Any help will be appreciated.
Thanks in advance.
Well I fixed a few problems, but now i get white scanlines going down the screen... i can see the display (text mode) from an angle.. I wonder if it has issues displaying text mode (80x25).
One of the problems was that i was giving the inverter 12v.. it should have been 5v.. and another is that the ******* IDC ROUNDED CABLE SHORTED PIN 40 TO GROUND! WHICH IS VCC!!! ******* bastards.. so i hope i didnt damage the display.... but now it outputs a nice 5v so things are getting better...
I tried to play around with the vert/horiz stuff but it doesnt seem to help... white scanlines down the screen...
Seems as if the vert sync is missing... but i think the pins are correct.. the colors look fine too so i think i got that right....