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Thread: Cooling ideas -/w console PC; in mustang?

  1. #11
    Constant Bitrate cla1067's Avatar
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    Some GPUs can run hot though without any issue. For example I have a ati 4870 x2 air cooled in my desktop and when playing games it runs at around 85C and normally runs at 75C to 78C idle.

  2. #12
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    yeah, and i have this nvidia gtx 480m in a 15" gx640 laptop...

    no, but seriously. I wouldnt think anyone with a car computer should have anything but integrated intel graphics? that will stay cool.

    Its all about airflow though.

    Oh, 69c max is not bad. I know it sounds high.
    If you run a program like ORTHOS prime stress test or superpi then you should know how easily running programs on you PC will make it overheat.

    Mostly over 85c is whats considered to be damaging. A good PC will idle under 40c and then not reach 80c while gaming/engineering/rendering 3d pixar epics or what have you.

    Wait a minute, what are you doing with a 3ghz core 2 duo in a car in the first place? apparently I have much to learn.

    Once again I will bring up the extreme heat differences of laptop vs desktop core 2 series CPUs.
    I have an overclocked 3+ ghz quad core laptop CPU. Its only 45w TDP, well under 65w of slower, 2 core desktop CPU!
    and the P series... is 25w! you could practically cool that with a desktop ACPI heatsink!


    Anway rant over. there is software that will probably be more helpful, such as RMclock. a little undervolting goes a long way.

  3. #13
    Constant Bitrate cla1067's Avatar
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    or underclock in bios and skip extra programs . He might need the power though who knows what he does or doesn't do.

  4. #14
    Variable Bitrate Wayne613's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cla1067 View Post
    or underclock in bios and skip extra programs . He might need the power though who knows what he does or doesn't do.
    Which is what I already did, it helps a little, but as I stated it's never a problem in summer even in 100+ F temps when it's been sitting out all day in direct sunlight, it's just winter with the heater on butted up against the plastic vent source. I obviously don't "need" it all, but he was more intent on a rant than providing info, so I let 'em. I just get tired of justifying not wishing to upgrade to get extra power for more monitors, apps, etc if needed.

    Many I've seen end up doing this multiple times for the same car because they want to do a "little" extra, and their atom or the like just can't quite make the grade any more. It's obvious if he believes my setup is overkill he has yet to view many others with multiple desktops installed in their vehicles. Unless I need 12 monitors to display 1080p movies, etc, I'm actually *certain* I will not need to do a do-over with this setup.

    I should have researched more however on the usual operating temps of the modern core 2's and higher-end GPU's though, what I'm at now seems to be close to the norm, so the re-shifting and replacing of the stock HS's with some AS3 seems to be doing it.

    It would still probably be in my best interest to get better air-flow regardless, or else risk getting all this overkill only to have it die early due to this and having to be force-ably upgraded anyhow. But at least now I can drive downstate without it shutting itself off after 20mins.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wayne613 View Post
    Which is what I already did, it helps a little, but as I stated it's never a problem in summer even in 100+ F temps when it's been sitting out all day in direct sunlight, it's just winter with the heater on butted up against the plastic vent source. I obviously don't "need" it all, but he was more intent on a rant than providing info, so I let 'em.
    Yeah, well what else were you gonna do? :P just kididng. I'm still here btw.
    I just get tired of justifying not wishing to upgrade to get extra power for more monitors, apps, etc if needed.

    Many I've seen end up doing this multiple times for the same car because they want to do a "little" extra, and their atom or the like just can't quite make the grade any more. It's obvious if he believes my setup is overkill he has yet to view many others with multiple desktops installed in their vehicles. Unless I need 12 monitors to display 1080p movies, etc, I'm actually *certain* I will not need to do a do-over with this setup.
    I don't have beliefs about whether your setup is overkill or not, on the contrary I think its pretty awesome that something like this exists and mostly because it was you and not a car company that did it.
    I did say I have a lot to learn as well, although I know cooling systems like the back of my hand I'm obviously not a car guy.
    Mainly what I was thinking is that I'd do it differently, which is sort of a no brainer, I mean everyone does it differently. If I need 3ghz for example I would start with a p8700 2.53ghz or something for ~100$ at 25w and then do a 266-333mhz fsb mod effective bus 1066-1333mhz so the base multiplier 9.5 x 333 = about 3.1ghz.

    With a setup like that i would be *certain* to never ever run down my car battery, even if I lived in my car and used the computer for weeks without starting the car.
    I should have researched more however on the usual operating temps of the modern core 2's and higher-end GPU's though, what I'm at now seems to be close to the norm, so the re-shifting and replacing of the stock HS's with some AS3 seems to be doing it.

    It would still probably be in my best interest to get better air-flow regardless, or else risk getting all this overkill only to have it die early due to this and having to be force-ably upgraded anyhow. But at least now I can drive downstate without it shutting itself off after 20mins.
    What would be really cool is if you could have an air intake for the winter that cooled it with outside air :P no fans required!


    The thing about RMclock though is that the downclock is not permanent, and you can set profiles, change it all while its running. Also, undervolting is the key here that can be way better than downclocking.

  6. #16
    And then I was mod. Tidder's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by niffcreature View Post
    Yeah, well what else were you gonna do? :P just kididng. I'm still here btw.

    I don't have beliefs about whether your setup is overkill or not, on the contrary I think its pretty awesome that something like this exists and mostly because it was you and not a car company that did it.
    I did say I have a lot to learn as well, although I know cooling systems like the back of my hand I'm obviously not a car guy.
    Mainly what I was thinking is that I'd do it differently, which is sort of a no brainer, I mean everyone does it differently. If I need 3ghz for example I would start with a p8700 2.53ghz or something for ~100$ at 25w and then do a 266-333mhz fsb mod effective bus 1066-1333mhz so the base multiplier 9.5 x 333 = about 3.1ghz.

    With a setup like that i would be *certain* to never ever run down my car battery, even if I lived in my car and used the computer for weeks without starting the car.
    I would be very impressed if you could do that. Even using S3 standby I can't get more than a day or 2 of battery without starting the car. I forget, since it ruined the idea of using standby for me. Couple days tops I think. The guys that are using sheevas don't even get a week out of the battery, and a sheeva is much MUCH less on power consumption than the hardware you are suggesting.
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  7. #17
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    Unless your entire car is one giant battery thats not gonna happen.

    assuming a 25watt CPU (even though at 3.1Ghz you will be exceeding that) a typical car battery will last 1-2hours. Once you factor in power supply overhead, hard drives, wifi, etc. You can cut that number by 1/4-1/8. Not to mention thats how long until your battery is discharged. If you actually want to be able to start it and drive away its even less.

  8. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tidder View Post
    I would be very impressed if you could do that. Even using S3 standby I can't get more than a day or 2 of battery without starting the car. I forget, since it ruined the idea of using standby for me. Couple days tops I think. The guys that are using sheevas don't even get a week out of the battery, and a sheeva is much MUCH less on power consumption than the hardware you are suggesting.
    You're right, it was an exaggeration. I don't really know what I'm talking about here with the power a car battery can put out. I just remember people on NBR calculating out a netbook on car battery once and it added up to something ridiculous like more than a week.

    There are probably some vast inefficiencies in sheeva setups like the screens which aren't being taken into account.

    P series can consume as little wattage as atoms. I think it all depends on the motherboard a lot a lot as well as the power supply of course.

    I do think it can be done, if I ever work on a setup, I will focus on battery life and see what I can do.

  9. #19
    And then I was mod. Tidder's Avatar
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    Most of the sheeva setups don't even have screens.
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  10. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by justchat_1 View Post
    Unless your entire car is one giant battery thats not gonna happen.

    assuming a 25watt CPU (even though at 3.1Ghz you will be exceeding that) a typical car battery will last 1-2hours. Once you factor in power supply overhead, hard drives, wifi, etc. You can cut that number by 1/4-1/8. Not to mention thats how long until your battery is discharged. If you actually want to be able to start it and drive away its even less.
    3.1ghz would of course exceed that, and its why intel has a little thing called SLFM which would have it clocking at under 1ghz at idle. The P series to not just have 25w over the 35w T series, they have an extremely optimized power saving process as the core is actually manufactured.

    Also we are all talking about this inaccurately as the wattage is not consumption but TDP.

    Hard drives can be extremely low power consumption as well, especially SSDs. and I'm not sure what I'd even be using wifi for 90% of the time.

    I dont think the whole car would need to be a battery. non extended 6cell notebook batteries will last more than 12 hours these days, and 7 of them will not take up a whole cars space.

    Yes, I'm talking a weeks practical use here, not playing music while sleeping.

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