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		<title>MP3Car.com - Power Supplies</title>
		<link>http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/</link>
		<description>Inverters, DC-DC, shutdown controllers, etc</description>
		<language>en</language>
		<lastBuildDate>Wed, 19 Jun 2013 02:48:00 GMT</lastBuildDate>
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			<title>MP3Car.com - Power Supplies</title>
			<link>http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/</link>
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		<item>
			<title>How do you power two devices from a DC-DC Converter?</title>
			<link>power-supplies/155836-how-do-you-power-two-devices-from-a-dc-dc-converter.html</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 13 Jun 2013 07:00:51 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>I have purchased a Mini-Box DC-DC-USB (http://www.amazon.com/Intelligent-DC-DC-Converter-USB-Interface/dp/B005TWE5RI/ref=pd_ybh_8) and I need to...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->I have purchased a <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Intelligent-DC-DC-Converter-USB-Interface/dp/B005TWE5RI/ref=pd_ybh_8" target="_blank">Mini-Box DC-DC-USB</a> and I need to power two devices at 5V. One can be powered by USB, so I believe I can power it by stripping the wires down and connecting them to the converter's power output. The second one is designed to plug into a wall, so I imagine I'll have to cut off the plug at the end and be careful to supply the correct voltage.<br />
<br />
So assuming that this is all correct, how would I go about powering the second device? Do I need to hook the devices up in series or parallel? Will adding another device mess with the current in the first one and if so, what do I need to set to ensure proper power levels for both of them? I understand how to set the voltage output on the converter, but I am unable to test it for myself at this moment.<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.mp3car.com/forumdisplay.php?f=11">Power Supplies</category>
			<dc:creator>anthony62490</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mp3car.com/showthread.php?t=155836</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>M1 ATX as shutdown controller</title>
			<link>power-supplies/155810-m1-atx-as-shutdown-controller.html</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 05 Jun 2013 17:35:39 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Hi all  
 
I am changing my car pc from an Atom based Jetway system, to a Optiplex 755 USFF. These are good as they will run off 12v regulated power...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->Hi all <br />
<br />
I am changing my car pc from an Atom based Jetway system, to a Optiplex 755 USFF. These are good as they will run off 12v regulated power straight into them. <br />
<br />
I was planning on using my M1 ATX as a shutdown controller as I have it left over from my previous system.<br />
<br />
I have soldered wires to the power switch on the motherboard and have wired them into the switch on the M1 atx (J6). <br />
<br />
My problem is that it when you give the M1 atx switched power, it waits 3 seconds, then presses the power button. When you remove the 12v from the switched input ont he m1 atx, it does not press the power button again :(<br />
<br />
Any thoughts? I would really like to avoid buying a seperate shutdown controller.<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.mp3car.com/forumdisplay.php?f=11">Power Supplies</category>
			<dc:creator>alexanderfoti</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mp3car.com/showthread.php?t=155810</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>P2140 output capacitor requirement?</title>
			<link>power-supplies/155806-p2140-output-capacitor-requirement.html</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 04 Jun 2013 16:00:27 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>We are planning to use the P2140 in our robot design. I am wondering if there is a requirement/specification for a capacitor on the output? Or is...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->We are planning to use the P2140 in our robot design. I am wondering if there is a requirement/specification for a capacitor on the output? Or is there an internal output capacitor?<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.mp3car.com/forumdisplay.php?f=11">Power Supplies</category>
			<dc:creator>Karin</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mp3car.com/showthread.php?t=155806</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>How would you power a Raspberry glovebox computer?</title>
			<link>power-supplies/155787-how-would-you-power-a-raspberry-glovebox-computer.html</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 28 May 2013 15:42:09 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>So my idea for a summer project is fairly straightforward, but there are a few kinks to work out before I just drop several hundred dollars. I want...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->So my idea for a summer project is fairly straightforward, but there are a few kinks to work out before I just drop several hundred dollars. I want to set up a Raspberry Pi for use with emulators, music, and video. Other than finding a suitable monitor, I think I have put together a list of all the necessary components.<br />
<br />
The problem is, while I am pretty good at setting up software, I have never understood cars or electricity. I need some way to power this little beast without damaging the OS. If I ever forget to turn off the Pi before I kill the engine, I don't want the little guy to just die without a proper shutdown. My biggest concern is accidentally cutting the power and potentially corrupting the SD card.<br />
<br />
The good news is that the Pi uses almost no power. The Pi and the powered USB hub only take 5V apiece (1000mA and 3800mA respectively), so I don't require anything close to the power of a full-size PC.<br />
So what do you think? What's the best way to get this thing powered? Do I just buy a cheap inverter and plug it into the cigarette lighter or what? I am considering buying one of these. <a href="http://www.amazon.com/PowerDrive-RPPD150-150-Watt-Inverter-Outlet/dp/B002AP95H2/ref=sr_1_16?s=automotive&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1369755027&amp;sr=1-16" target="_blank">http://www.amazon.com/PowerDrive-RPP...755027&amp;sr=1-16</a><br />
<br />
What would YOU do in a situation like this?<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.mp3car.com/forumdisplay.php?f=11">Power Supplies</category>
			<dc:creator>anthony62490</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mp3car.com/showthread.php?t=155787</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Automotive 12-volt convert to dual 1.5 volt output</title>
			<link>power-supplies/155674-automotive-12-volt-convert-to-dual-1-5-volt-output.html</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 12 May 2013 17:59:15 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Here's the deal. I have two auxiliary inputs on my car radio. The signal is very weak, so I bought two cheap headphone amplifiers (Fiio E3) to boost...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->Here's the deal. I have two auxiliary inputs on my car radio. The signal is very weak, so I bought two cheap headphone amplifiers (Fiio E3) to boost the input signal (XM radio receiver and cell phone/tablet/mp3 player). The headphone amps work great, and make the input sound great and full; already tested with no issues.<br />
<br />
Problem is, the amps are powered by a AAA battery, so 1.5 volts each. They only turn on when the output of the amp is connected, and last about 20 hours on a charge when constantly on. So instead of replacing the battery every day (I plan to have these buried inside the dash of the car, so the output will always be connected), I want to make some kind of voltage divider/regulator to power both headphone amps when the car ignition is on. So in theory I would have to drop 14.5-ish (engine running volts) down to two 1.5 volt outputs to drive each headphone amp.<br />
<br />
Any ideas on how to accomplish this? Thanks in advance!<br />
<br />
-David<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.mp3car.com/forumdisplay.php?f=11">Power Supplies</category>
			<dc:creator>peder</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mp3car.com/showthread.php?t=155674</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>M4 Tried and true</title>
			<link>power-supplies/155628-m4-tried-and-true.html</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 01 May 2013 19:48:01 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>I am going to start ordering parts for my build.  It seems like the M4 is a tried and true PS.  Anyone have any other recommendations or other things...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->I am going to start ordering parts for my build.  It seems like the M4 is a tried and true PS.  Anyone have any other recommendations or other things to look out for?  For example i just found out that the M4 has a auto power on and power off feature based on the ignition switch on the vehicle.<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.mp3car.com/forumdisplay.php?f=11">Power Supplies</category>
			<dc:creator>psi3000</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mp3car.com/showthread.php?t=155628</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Ultracapacitor  Battery for Car</title>
			<link>power-supplies/155627-ultracapacitor-battery-for-car.html</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 01 May 2013 12:30:09 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Found a good stuff at Amazon  
 
Product Description 
It is an engine starting booster module. It consists of six 1400 farad 2.5 volt Nippon...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->Found a good stuff at Amazon <br />
<br />
Product Description<br />
It is an engine starting booster module. It consists of six 1400 farad 2.5 volt Nippon ultracapacitors connected in series plus a cell balancing circuit to keep the voltages on the individual cells balanced. How it Works: The ultracapacitor engina starting booster module is connected across the battery wires, preferably as close as possible to the starter motor. Even if the battery is weak, it keeps the ultracaps charged to the battery voltage. When the starter is engaged, the energy in the ultracaps drives the starter, giving full voltage to the starter, due to its extremely low resistance. This is especially effective in starting engines, as they will not start unless they reach a minimum starting RPM. A weak battery may be able to turn it over, but if it doesn't reach minimum RPM, the engine won't start. If the engine doesn't start on the first try, in a minute or so the battery will recharge the ultracaps for another strong shot. As a side benefit, the ultracapacitor engina starting booster module will stabilize the system voltage, which will improve performance of some accessories, such as high power audio systems. the boost module just like a senconde battery, but much strong then normal one. for short bursts, is not affected by high or low temperatures, and will laste longer.<br />
<br />
How do you think this thing? <br />
<img src="http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/attachments/power-supplies/69225d1367411365-ultracapacitor-battery-for-car-p1210352-1024x768_zpsf0e4ff10.png" border="0" alt="Name:  P1210352-1024x768_zpsf0e4ff10.png
Views: 874
Size:  870.4 KB"  style="float: CONFIG" />:clap2::clap2::clap2:<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>


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			<category domain="http://www.mp3car.com/forumdisplay.php?f=11">Power Supplies</category>
			<dc:creator>ttaa72</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mp3car.com/showthread.php?t=155627</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Advice on how to prevent Voltage drop during Cranking.</title>
			<link>power-supplies/155620-advice-on-how-to-prevent-voltage-drop-during-cranking.html</link>
			<pubDate>Mon, 29 Apr 2013 12:47:24 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Hello Everyone! 
  I have this simple problem that isnt really a big problem but more of an annoyance. 
Now I have everything hooked up correctly. I...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->Hello Everyone!<br />
  I have this simple problem that isnt really a big problem but more of an annoyance.<br />
Now I have everything hooked up correctly. I have the M2 power supply.<br />
The system turns on when I start the car, it sleeps when I turn it off.<br />
<br />
My problem is..<br />
If I turn the car to ACC and the system boots up and then I start the car after everything is running.<br />
<br />
Its like the main power is cut off and the system just turns off.  Reboots ....<br />
<br />
Heres what I checked.<br />
<br />
The main power is connected directly to the battery.  It has 12+v <br />
When I crank over the engine, the voltage drops a lot but only for a second or to then its right back where it should be.<br />
<br />
That quick second is all it takes to shut off the system and reboot it.<br />
<br />
Can anyone give me some advice or if there is another forum post that already address this to help me find it.!!!<br />
<br />
Also my second question, off this topic but say I am at a drive-in and they broadcast over the radio.. With the car off and the system running its going to kill my battery fairly quick. Would a second battery help?  If so whats the advice on that.. ALSO now that I think about it would a second battery help with the problem above?<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Thank You !!!<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.mp3car.com/forumdisplay.php?f=11">Power Supplies</category>
			<dc:creator>Scion07Tc</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mp3car.com/showthread.php?t=155620</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>PSU makes hummin sound, when inverter is turn on</title>
			<link>power-supplies/155599-psu-makes-hummin-sound-when-inverter-is-turn-on.html</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 24 Apr 2013 17:17:47 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>hello. in my car i use, a modified sine wave to power my pc. the problem is, as soon as i turn on the inverter (no matter if the PSU is on , or off )...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->hello. in my car i use, a modified sine wave to power my pc. the problem is, as soon as i turn on the inverter (no matter if the PSU is on , or off ) the psu makes a strange whining noise...<br />
 not to mention that, when the pc works, it has allot of noise in sound.<br />
 (To solve that, i have cut the ground wires from the psu to inverter)<br />
<br />
Any idea what could be causing this? cause i want to leave the inverter Always on, to remotely start the pc, but this sound makes me fear something is going on. would a pure sine wave solve it? or maybe a new PSU?<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.mp3car.com/forumdisplay.php?f=11">Power Supplies</category>
			<dc:creator>settra</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mp3car.com/showthread.php?t=155599</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Noise when power connected</title>
			<link>power-supplies/155474-noise-when-power-connected.html</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 27 Mar 2013 19:16:41 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Hello Guys, I'm currently in the very early stages of deploying a car-pc into my car, At the moment i'm not wanting to tear my dash or anything...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->Hello Guys, I'm currently in the very early stages of deploying a car-pc into my car, At the moment i'm not wanting to tear my dash or anything apart. I plan to use a laptop which at the moment is connected to my stero via AUX cable.<br />
<br />
The sound quality is good enough when the laptop is running from the battery however depending on the revs of the car you can hear feedback from the car through the output of the laptop when the battery is charging, What would be the best and simplest way to remove this noise? of course i am aware ideally you want to connect directly to the battery but this is not am option as i'm not wanting to go hacking the car to bits. Suggestions?<br />
<br />
Regards<br />
<br />
Johnny<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.mp3car.com/forumdisplay.php?f=11">Power Supplies</category>
			<dc:creator>jnymris</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mp3car.com/showthread.php?t=155474</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Powering an amp and tablet</title>
			<link>power-supplies/155426-powering-an-amp-and-tablet.html</link>
			<pubDate>Mon, 18 Mar 2013 16:03:57 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Hello, im working on a project where i intend to mount a tablet instead of my head unit and run audio to an amp. I Have the amp wiring understood but...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->Hello, im working on a project where i intend to mount a tablet instead of my head unit and run audio to an amp. I Have the amp wiring understood but im wondering if i can power the tablet from the 12v switched wire or if i need a power supply or run it to the battery. <br />
<br />
The tablet requires 5v and 2000ma. If i use a 12v-5v DC-DC converter, will i be able to power the tablet and send a signal to the amp using the 12v switched wire? <br />
<br />
Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.mp3car.com/forumdisplay.php?f=11">Power Supplies</category>
			<dc:creator>SynGates</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mp3car.com/showthread.php?t=155426</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>M2-ATX + Laptop</title>
			<link>power-supplies/155424-m2-atx-laptop.html</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 17 Mar 2013 22:51:00 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>So, 
 
 
I am sure I am not the first one to do this, and hopefully will not be tarred and feathered for doing so! ;) 
 
Preface: 
 
I have had an...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->So,<br />
<br />
<br />
I am sure I am not the first one to do this, and hopefully will not be tarred and feathered for doing so! ;)<br />
<br />
Preface:<br />
<br />
I have had an M2-ATX sitting around on a shelf for 2-3 years now, and had never really used it (fiddled with it when I got it to make sure it works; it does)<br />
<br />
I had it hooked up in my car to an intel core2 duo cpu/msi motherboard, all worked RELATIVELY well (inconsistent power on, but I think that was due to a loose IGN trigger)<br />
<br />
Now:<br />
<br />
I have decided to forgo the motherboard solution and use a laptop in its place - this made sense from a cost perspective (laptop = free, motherboard = lacking all the things the laptop has)<br />
<br />
The intent is to run the laptop from a 12V-&gt;19V DC converter (purchased, works perfectly)<br />
The M2-ATX is then going to be used for the following:<br />
<br />
Trigger a relay that controls the DCDC converter for the laptop. This way the power brick is not constantly sucking power and still relies on the M2 for some intelligence. (This appears to work)<br />
<br />
Issue:<br />
<br />
The M2 has the traditional ACPI  out header to send the pulse to a &quot;motherboard&quot; for poweron. This, being a laptop, doesn't have standard headers - nor do I think the switches are necessarily ACPI compliant.<br />
<br />
 The issue I am having is:<br />
<br />
I have found the +/- on the power switch. I have soldered a two-wire/2 pin connector onto the laptop power switch; this gets plugged into the M2's PWROUT/TRIGGER header.<br />
<b>The &quot;pulse&quot; appears to be entirely too long on power on. The laptop powers on, powers off, powers on, powers off.</b><br />
<br />
I have verified the pulse is too long by simply yanking the ACPI connector right after the laptop powers on - it does not power back on/off/etc once the header has sent the first pulse and then been yanked.<br />
<br />
Are there any simple ways to make the pulse less &quot;gratuitous&quot; / shorter that are cost effective? The key here was reusing parts that I had (hence the M2-atx as a shutdown controller); but this ONE issue is causing me the biggest headache. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. <br />
<br />
PS, please keep in mind, I do also want to use the same functionality to power the laptop off - I'm not sure if this limits the options to fix this issue.<br />
<br />
Anyone's help/suggestions are greatly appreciated. My last resort is using the laptop's built in wake-on-AC but I really dislike this option because it requires me to make the laptop suspend/shutdown upon a HARD poweroff rather than a graceful ACPI trigger. I know the laptop would still run on internal battery - but I consider that a less than ideal situation.<br />
<br />
Thanks in advance!<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.mp3car.com/forumdisplay.php?f=11">Power Supplies</category>
			<dc:creator>oztiks</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mp3car.com/showthread.php?t=155424</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>12V delay circuit</title>
			<link>power-supplies/155421-12v-delay-circuit.html</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 17 Mar 2013 06:34:11 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>So I have a pretty simple problem I know I can solve, but wanted to put this out there to see if I was going about it the simplest way. 
 
I picked...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->So I have a pretty simple problem I know I can solve, but wanted to put this out there to see if I was going about it the simplest way.<br />
<br />
I picked up a Webmaster power on module years ago while he was still making them knowing I'd get my carpc moving some day.  Now I've found a minor hiccup.<br />
<br />
The laptop itself doesn't have a hard power button.  I cracked open the case and it's a soft button on the keyboard's circuit board, so nothing to solder to.<br />
<br />
I am using a docking station that does have a hard power button with solder contacts, so I'm in business.  I can use the manual power button from the Webmaster module to turn the computer on and off so I know that's installed correctly.<br />
<br />
The issue is that the laptop DC-DC power supply I have is connected to the ignition on circuit, and the docking station has to have power to it in order for that hard power button to do anything.  The Webmaster module is sending the power pulse before the docking station is able to turn on the computer.  I just need a simple delay, say two seconds roughly, for the docking station to be ready to go.<br />
<br />
So I just want to wire it in line before the Webmaster module so it sees the 12V trigger with the delay and it's action on the power button circuit remains the same.<br />
<br />
This is my current option I'm looking at after a quick search.  <br />
<a href="http://www.wolstentech.com/products/timedelayrelay/basic-instructions.php" target="_blank">http://www.wolstentech.com/products/...structions.php</a><br />
<br />
Seems simple enough and is adjustable to ensure it's just right.  My concern is that it's more complicated than I really need.  $30 isn't a big deal, but if there is a smarter choice you can point me towards I'll take a look.<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.mp3car.com/forumdisplay.php?f=11">Power Supplies</category>
			<dc:creator>FockMasterDan</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mp3car.com/showthread.php?t=155421</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>DIY Guide: DSATX external case</title>
			<link>power-supplies/155360-diy-guide-dsatx-external-case.html</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 07 Mar 2013 14:04:44 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Often I read that people are looking for a case for the DSATX, and I was in the same situation now. So I decided to help some of you guys out with...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->Often I read that people are looking for a case for the DSATX, and I was in the same situation now. So I decided to help some of you guys out with that problem.<br />
I didn't make pictures of the steps, but I think the pictures of the completed case will be enough to see the general idea.<br />
For this solution you will need to remove the connector from the 20 pin cable, so you can fit all cables through the holes. Unless of course, you decide to cut a big enough hole, so that the connector fits through.<br />
A guide how to remove the pins from the connector can be found here: <a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kXMwCQ9fIVM" target="_blank">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kXMwCQ9fIVM</a><br />
<br />
Parts/Tools needed:<br />
- Hammond Electronics 1455N1201BK case ($20-30)<br />
- Cone-Drill<br />
- Plastic edge protection for drilled holes<br />
- 4 motherboard mounting screw nuts plus 4 screws that fit in those<br />
- Drill to make mounting holes for the mounting screw nuts<br />
- Thread cutter for the mounting screw nuts<br />
- Dremel or similar to remove the overhanging screws and optionally cut air vents<br />
- Optional 80 mm fan (15 mm height)<br />
- Optional 80 mm fan dust filter or grille<br />
- Optional 76 mm drill<br />
- Optional rubber buffers for PC case fans or fitting screws<br />
<br />
First off you will need to get a case. It took me quite a while to find one that is not too big and not too small. I eventually found the Hammond Electronics 1455N1201BK. I checked Google and it should be available from many different sources internationally. The bulky edges look a bit silly, but you can actually remove them. They are only a plastic frame.<br />
<br />
After that you will need to take out the sled on which you will be able to mount your DSATX. You can also use the other side of the case to mount the PSU, but I chose to take the sled.<br />
Now you will need to drill holes to mount your DSATX. I don't know if those nuts are the same size everywhere, so you will need to measure them yourself.<br />
Put your DSATX on the sled and mark the mounting hole spots with a pen.<br />
<br />
Now drill those holes (be sure to not make them to big, since you will still need to cut threads), then cut the threads accordingly.<br />
Now you can put in the nuts. The clearance at the edge of the sled will be very tight, but you can grind a little off of the edge where the nuts will be mounted. Don't overtighten the nuts, because the case is made out of soft aluminum. You can then remove the overhanging screws on the back of the sled, by using a Dremel with a cutting disc or whatever grinder you can find. You can also leave them, if you plan on putting rubber stands there, or other mounts, etc.<br />
<br />
Now you can drill the holes needed for the cables with your cone drill or normal metal drill.<br />
First make the big one where the 20 pin, 4 pin, mainboard switch cable and other optional cables will fit through. I chose to also put a remote signal cable and a USB cable through for the interface. In that case I went with a 16 mm diameter hole, which also takes into account the space the edge protection takes away. I made the hole in the upper edge, right where the 20 pin connector would be, when the DSATX is in the case. After youre done with the hole, get a long enough edge protection and put it in, so the cables wont be damaged from the sharp metal edges.<br />
<br />
You now need the 3 holes for the power cables. Fasten the DSATX on the sled and slide it in the case. Now hold one of the side plates on to where the connectors are, secure the lower edge of the plate to the sled with some tape and remove the case again. You will now have the sled connected to the plate with tape and you can easily see where to make the holes. Mark the holes and I suggest connecting these marks with a line, so they will be aligned well to each other, remove the tape and drill them (I used a 7.5 mm drill, 7 mm will work too, but I used different cable connectors, which were too wide for 7 mm). Check if the holes align well with the connectors on the DSATX.<br />
<br />
<b>The following parts are optional. I decided its better to do this, because else the case would be pretty much airtight and even at low load this might pose a problem sooner or later.</b><br />
<br />
Find the middle of the case and use the 76 mm drill to make a hole for an 80 mm fan. Be sure to have proper fastening to the case when you do this, because in my case the drill got stuck when it was almost through and threw the case through half of the room and scratched it pretty badly, not to mention my fingers. Smoothen the edges with a fine file or sandpaper.<br />
<br />
The case needs additional venting, so the warm air can escape. I cut 3 openings from the inside at the side of the case on each side. Be sure to buy enough cutting discs for your Dremel for this, because in my case it ate almost 2 of them. The inside fins in the case will offer enough support to make the openings more or less straight. Again smoothen the edges with a fine file or sand paper.<br />
<br />
Now you will need to mount that 80 mm fan. I used rubber buffers to minimize vibration, cut them to a disc and simply glued them to the fan and the case.<br />
Put on your dust filter. Either by cutting additional holes for the screws, or using a filter that supplies a magnetic sticker and will stick to that, like I did.<br />
Connect all cables and put everything together. Done.<br />
<br />
Additionally you can press the rail where the sled goes in a little together, because I found it has quite some clearance, causing some noise. Just use some pliers for that, but be careful not to use too much force, else the sled wont fit in anymore.<br />
<br />
Of course all these step can be made more properly and better looking, if you have better tools than I do. I didn't care so much for looks, since it wont be visible in the car anyway, unless you look under the seat.<br />
<br />
<b>Pictures:</b><br />
<img src="http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/attachments/power-supplies/68852d1362664344-diy-guide-dsatx-external-case-dsc_0011.jpg" border="0" alt="Name:  DSC_0011.jpg
Views: 180
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The finished case.<br />
<br />
<img src="http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/attachments/power-supplies/68853d1362664348-diy-guide-dsatx-external-case-dsc_0010.jpg" border="0" alt="Name:  DSC_0010.jpg
Views: 220
Size:  101.0 KB"  /><br />
Filed off screws on the bottom with a Dremel (sorry for the bad quality).<br />
<br />
<img src="http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/attachments/power-supplies/68854d1362664350-diy-guide-dsatx-external-case-dsc_0009.jpg" border="0" alt="Name:  DSC_0009.jpg
Views: 242
Size:  224.0 KB"  /><br />
Front plate with the main hole for the 20 and 4 pin cables, plus the power connector holes. The white thing in the hole is the edge protector.<br />
<br />
<img src="http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/attachments/power-supplies/68855d1362664353-diy-guide-dsatx-external-case-dsc_0008.jpg" border="0" alt="Name:  DSC_0008.jpg
Views: 145
Size:  149.3 KB"  /><br />
<br />
<img src="http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/attachments/power-supplies/68856d1362664356-diy-guide-dsatx-external-case-dsc_0007.jpg" border="0" alt="Name:  DSC_0007.jpg
Views: 171
Size:  240.1 KB"  /><br />
<br />
<img src="http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/attachments/power-supplies/68857d1362664358-diy-guide-dsatx-external-case-dsc_0006.jpg" border="0" alt="Name:  DSC_0006.jpg
Views: 224
Size:  259.3 KB"  /><br />
This is the dust filter. It comes with a magnetic sticker ring and then just holds onto it with magnets.<br />
<br />
<img src="http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/attachments/power-supplies/68858d1362664360-diy-guide-dsatx-external-case-dsc_0005.jpg" border="0" alt="Name:  DSC_0005.jpg
Views: 217
Size:  115.1 KB"  /><br />
Here you can see the vent openings and the installed fan.<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>


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			<legend>Attached Images</legend>
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				<img class="attach" src="http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/attachments/power-supplies/68852d1362664344-diy-guide-dsatx-external-case-dsc_0011.jpg" alt="" />&nbsp;<img class="attach" src="http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/attachments/power-supplies/68853d1362664348-diy-guide-dsatx-external-case-dsc_0010.jpg" alt="" />&nbsp;<img class="attach" src="http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/attachments/power-supplies/68854d1362664350-diy-guide-dsatx-external-case-dsc_0009.jpg" alt="" />&nbsp;<img class="attach" src="http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/attachments/power-supplies/68855d1362664353-diy-guide-dsatx-external-case-dsc_0008.jpg" alt="" />&nbsp;<img class="attach" src="http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/attachments/power-supplies/68856d1362664356-diy-guide-dsatx-external-case-dsc_0007.jpg" alt="" />&nbsp;<img class="attach" src="http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/attachments/power-supplies/68857d1362664358-diy-guide-dsatx-external-case-dsc_0006.jpg" alt="" />&nbsp;<img class="attach" src="http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/attachments/power-supplies/68858d1362664360-diy-guide-dsatx-external-case-dsc_0005.jpg" alt="" />&nbsp;
			</div>
		</fieldset>
	

	

	

	</div>
]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.mp3car.com/forumdisplay.php?f=11">Power Supplies</category>
			<dc:creator>Gullimonster</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mp3car.com/showthread.php?t=155360</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Power supply... 24 pin motherboard with p4 connector in M350 case.</title>
			<link>power-supplies/155267-power-supply-24-pin-motherboard-with-p4-connector-in-m350-case.html</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 15 Feb 2013 06:50:02 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>I am curious what people might suggest using.  
 
I purchased a Gigabyte Z-77N-WiFi motherboard with a low profile fan and an i3 55watt CPU. This has...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->I am curious what people might suggest using. <br />
<br />
I purchased a Gigabyte Z-77N-WiFi motherboard with a low profile fan and an i3 55watt CPU. This has a p4 connector and a 24 pin power connector.<br />
<br />
This is going into a M350 Mini-box case. <br />
<br />
i will be using an SSD as my HD. <br />
<br />
Problem I am having now is what power supply to use. <br />
<br />
I could use a Pico -160XT PSU but then I need a regulated supply. This has a 24 pin power connector and p4 connector. <br />
<br />
the M2-ATX has a p4 connector but only has a 20 pin connector and won't fit in my case because it is too long. If I install a spare HD bracket I will have basically 6&quot; by 2.5&quot; of usable area due to the motherboard layout. <br />
<br />
I ordered an M3-ATX supply but this only has a 20 pin connector and no P4 connector. I have seen 20-24 pin connectors and I have seen or could make my own P4 to 4pin Molex connector. But I wonder if these adapters are a smart idea.<br />
<br />
It looks like I could actually use one of the Pico supplies along with a  DSX12VD regulated supply. This option looks like the most viable in my case since the DSX12VD looks like it could be mounted to a second HD bracket and mounted inside the case with the Pico supply. The Pico supply would only need the P4 connector, a Sata connector and the power connectors to the DSX supply.<br />
<br />
This is a powerful little computer.. <br />
<br />
Just trying to figure out how to power it. (I can also upgrade to a 65 watt i7 if I ever wanted)<br />
<br />
Rodney<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.mp3car.com/forumdisplay.php?f=11">Power Supplies</category>
			<dc:creator>redheadedrod</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mp3car.com/showthread.php?t=155267</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Low voltage shutoff</title>
			<link>power-supplies/155167-low-voltage-shutoff.html</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 22 Jan 2013 23:31:50 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>So im looking for one of two things hopefully someone can point me towards an existing product. Either a power inverter with a low power shutoff that...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->So im looking for one of two things hopefully someone can point me towards an existing product. Either a power inverter with a low power shutoff that is higher than 10v (that seems to be the standard) or a device meant for 12v in and 12 out and shuts down around 12. Im trying to setup a on board dvr on a buddies food truck that will run on constant power so that there is no issues with remembering to turn it off and I need to make sure that it doesnt leave them with a dead battery in the morning after sitting over night or for a couple days at a time. Both the dvr and camera can be run on straight 12 volts or with an ac adapter so either option would be fine. Or if anyone has a better idea Im all ears, I have considered a dedicated battery and battery isolator but there is very little space on this thing.<br />
<br />
thanks<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.mp3car.com/forumdisplay.php?f=11">Power Supplies</category>
			<dc:creator>justanotherjoe</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mp3car.com/showthread.php?t=155167</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Ground Distribution Idea</title>
			<link>power-supplies/155144-ground-distribution-idea.html</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 20 Jan 2013 01:26:00 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>OK So I have purchased my self the power distribution box I needed and the side post for the battery.  I am thinking I am going to do a ground...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->OK So I have purchased my self the power distribution box I needed and the side post for the battery.  I am thinking I am going to do a ground distribution also.  HEre are my thoughts...<br />
<br />
I bought a Raptor 12v distribution box...I was thinking about getting another one and using that for a ground distribution.  Shouldnt be any issue with that you think right?  Cause I mean its still making the connection.<br />
<br />
If I do that I am debating running the ground wire to a solid ground spot on the chassis or hooking right to my battery.<br />
<br />
My 12v doing to the distribution box is 2 gauge.  I was orginally planning on 2 gauge for the ground also but am starting to think I should do 0/1 Gauge instead.  What do you think?<br />
<br />
Would I be better off running the ground to the battery?<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.mp3car.com/forumdisplay.php?f=11">Power Supplies</category>
			<dc:creator>DracoPCGuy</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mp3car.com/showthread.php?t=155144</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>M2ATX not monitoring battery voltage</title>
			<link>power-supplies/155062-m2atx-not-monitoring-battery-voltage.html</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 03 Jan 2013 14:00:38 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Any clues?  
Car battery used to last 2-3 hours before I get the onboard computer low battery warning. Now it takes 30 minutes of use to get the...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->Any clues? <br />
Car battery used to last 2-3 hours before I get the onboard computer low battery warning. Now it takes 30 minutes of use to get the warning. The M2-ATX does not seem to detect the voltage level and the carpc continues running... I never noticed this voltage level monitoring and shutdown when I the ODBII warning happened.<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.mp3car.com/forumdisplay.php?f=11">Power Supplies</category>
			<dc:creator>hadaak</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mp3car.com/showthread.php?t=155062</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>M4-ATX and Radio issues</title>
			<link>power-supplies/154948-m4-atx-and-radio-issues.html</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 11 Dec 2012 08:41:21 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Looking for some advise from the pros. 
 
My M4-ATX has worked well, but I've recently added a DAB/FM radio,...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->Looking for some advise from the pros.<br />
<br />
My M4-ATX has worked well, but I've recently added a DAB/FM radio, <a href="http://www.monkeyboard.org/products/85-developmentboard/80-dab-fm-digital-radio-development-board" target="_blank">http://www.monkeyboard.org/products/...elopment-board</a>, and the reception in the car is cr.. (both FM and DAB)<br />
<br />
Connected the radio to a laptop in the car, with the CarPC off, and reception is good. (Signal strengh in the 80-90%). Driving around town and all appears good with no dropouts on DAB.<br />
<br />
When I turn on the CarPC with the M4-ATX, the signal strength goes to somewhere between 0 and 20 with frequent dropouts. Btw, the radio is still connected to laptop at this point. Tried moving the CarPC to the boot, with the antenna sucked to the front window. (max distance between the two) No help. Still horrible reception even when parked in drive way.<br />
<br />
<br />
Based on some googling and these forums, I suspect the issue is the M4-ATX generating a lot of noise and killing the radio signal.<br />
<br />
1) Is it safe to assume the issue is the M4-ATX and to fix the issue I need to replace it?<br />
2) Assuming it is the M4-ATX, what DC-DC PSU should I get to avoid interference with radio? (and any other issues. The MP3Car store appears to sell alot of the M2, M3 and M4s, but...). Is <a href="http://store.mp3car.com/Intelligent_DC_DC_Converter_with_USB_Interface_p/pwr-034.htm" target="_blank">http://store.mp3car.com/Intelligent_..._p/pwr-034.htm</a> good enough?<br />
<br />
<br />
JJ<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.mp3car.com/forumdisplay.php?f=11">Power Supplies</category>
			<dc:creator>johnjore</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mp3car.com/showthread.php?t=154948</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>12v DC Motherboard PSU Solution</title>
			<link>power-supplies/154534-12v-dc-motherboard-psu-solution.html</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 24 Nov 2012 18:48:50 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>I have a Jetway NC9 8-525 E-LF motherboard and it is kinda weird because it does not use an atx or the 4 pin power.  It only has the 12v DC plug in...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->I have a Jetway NC9 8-525 E-LF motherboard and it is kinda weird because it does not use an atx or the 4 pin power.  It only has the 12v DC plug in the back.  I have seen quite a few posts on here about powering them in a car and here is what I did:<br />
<br />
I ordered the DC-DC intelligent USB PSU form mp3car.com to use to power that computer and to make it start up and shut down with the ignition.<br />
<br />
because there is no ATX or 4 pin power on the motherboard i realized that the power had to come into the computer from the 12v 2.5mm jack in the back of the motherboard.<br />
<br />
To power this beast i took a 5V AC Power supply and cut the wire off leaving only a wire and the 2.5mm male barrel connector and soldered this wire to the yellow and black power wires that are supposed to goto either the ATX or 4 pin power connectors on the motherboard.  plugged it into the back of the computer, hooked it up to a 12v bench power supply and voila.....power to the computer.<br />
<br />
<br />
now for the smart start up/shut down controller<br />
I wanted to be able to take the computer in the house and work on it if i needed to so what i did was took a 2 pin power wire from another old computer and put it on the DC-DC power supply.  I drilled a 1/4&quot; hole on the output side of the DC-DC power supply housing and the other side of the wire i cut from another computer i soldered to a 3.5mm female audio jack that i installed on PSU housing.  on the Jetway motherboard i spliced into the power switch and soldered a wire to each of the leads.  The other side of the wires i soldered again to a 3.5mm audio jack that i drilled a hole for on the back of the case.  now for the cool part.  to get the smart start up/shut down to work i simply took a 3' aux input cable with two male 3.5mm ends and plugged one end into the DC-DC power supply and the other end into the computer------and it works.  The good thing about this setup is if i need to take the computer into the house i simply disconnect both cables from the back of the computer and i can take it into the house.  Since i spliced into the power switch in the computer, it still works with a standard wall PSU that i bought and use the on/off button on the computer.<br />
<br />
I hope this helps with others who have this type of motherboard.  the PSU cost like $65 and the 3.5mm female jacks cost like $5 at radio shack.  The power supply i cut to plug into the back of the motherboard i had so it did not cost me anything.  The voltage of the power supply does not matter.  The only thing that matters is that the male end will fit into the female 12v connector on the motherboard.  Im sure everyone has extra power supplies laying around the house.<br />
<br />
If anyone needs pictures, i can upload them.<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.mp3car.com/forumdisplay.php?f=11">Power Supplies</category>
			<dc:creator>Steelcity74</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mp3car.com/showthread.php?t=154534</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>using laptop battery as second battery</title>
			<link>power-supplies/154435-using-laptop-battery-as-second-battery.html</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 23 Nov 2012 09:51:38 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>can it be done?  
 
I have a practically new laptop battery and I would like to use it as a power source for my carpc when it is in sleep mode, I...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->can it be done? <br />
<br />
I have a practically new laptop battery and I would like to use it as a power source for my carpc when it is in sleep mode, I just dont have any idea on how to setup the wiring for that.<br />
<br />
the battery is rated 10.8V 4400mAh 48Wh<br />
<br />
I know for a battery to charge the input voltage has to be higher to create the 'push' needed to charge.<br />
my question is basically how to wire it to my m3 atx power supply, because the m3 atx will turn off the 5v rail if the car battery will go below 11.8V <br />
<br />
any thoughts on the matter are welcome :)<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.mp3car.com/forumdisplay.php?f=11">Power Supplies</category>
			<dc:creator>eugenweij</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mp3car.com/showthread.php?t=154435</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Help with power options please</title>
			<link>power-supplies/154079-help-with-power-options-please.html</link>
			<pubDate>Mon, 19 Nov 2012 18:38:42 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I'm going to be putting in a tablet in my car, Samsung Galaxy 10.1 and  I need to be able to charge that, an HDMI converter...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->I'm going to be putting in a tablet in my car, Samsung Galaxy 10.1 and  I need to be able to charge that, an <a href="http://www.octavainc.com/HDMI%20distribution%20amp_splitter%202%20port.html" target="_blank">HDMI converter</a>, a <a href="http://www.ebay.com/itm/25W-2-SMSL-SA-S3-TA2021B-T-AMP-HI-FI-Stereo-Digital-Class-T-Headphone-Amplifier-/160914960737?pt=US_Pro_Audio_Amplifiers&amp;hash=item2577477161" target="_blank">Headphone amp</a> (for volume control), and as well my phone charger (Galaxy S3).  The Headphone amp, and the HDMI converter run with a regular wall plug.  Those need converting to be able to run in my car.  But I also don't want to have to run the tablet and phone off a couple of cigarette lighter adapters.  <br />
<br />
Can someone assist me with what I need and how I would go about hooking it up?  Thanks!<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.mp3car.com/forumdisplay.php?f=11">Power Supplies</category>
			<dc:creator>Scott Carver</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mp3car.com/showthread.php?t=154079</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Dc-Dc intelligent usb noise problem.</title>
			<link>power-supplies/153794-dc-dc-intelligent-usb-noise-problem.html</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 15 Nov 2012 03:22:08 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Hello, I'm having a weird issue with my power supply. When I hook the power supply up to constant hot I get a very unusual noise. I can't really...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->Hello, I'm having a weird issue with my power supply. When I hook the power supply up to constant hot I get a very unusual noise. I can't really explain it, it's a really high pitched and crackling sound. I've been doing car audio for a while so I'm used to troubleshooting ground loops and alternator whine. This isn't like that at all. I ran new power and ground direct to the battery and as long as the laptop is hooked to the supply I get that noise. I rerouted everything to the battery and powered it up and it's still the same issue. Absolutely perfect running off the laptop battery. I brought my second battery to the car and powered just the supply to the laptop and it still did the same thing.<br />
I'm at a loss. I've changed every single cable in the car. <br />
Anyone have an idea?<br />
Thanks<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.mp3car.com/forumdisplay.php?f=11">Power Supplies</category>
			<dc:creator>Randy Taylor</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mp3car.com/showthread.php?t=153794</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Need PSU help please</title>
			<link>power-supplies/153782-need-psu-help-please.html</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 14 Nov 2012 02:26:03 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>I have a Jetway NC98 ION2 Series with the D525 Intel Atom processor. The motherboard does not have the usual ATX power connector so the frequently...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->I have a Jetway NC98 ION2 Series with the D525 Intel Atom processor. The motherboard does not have the usual ATX power connector so the frequently used M2/M3-ATX power supply looks like it won't work. It has the 12v power connector connected directly to the motherboard. What kind of power supply do I need to hook this up in my car. I have everything I need to get started such as the machine is built and tested (using a 12v wall adaptor) and a liliput 7&quot; USB powered touch screen along with centrafuse 4 w/navigation. I have been running it in my car with a power inverter plugged into the cigarette lighter. Please help because I want to hook it upmto start when the car is started and shut down when I turn it off. <br />
<br />
Thanks in advance.<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.mp3car.com/forumdisplay.php?f=11">Power Supplies</category>
			<dc:creator>Steelcity74</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mp3car.com/showthread.php?t=153782</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>I need power supply FOR  Intel motherboard DH61AG</title>
			<link>power-supplies/153755-i-need-power-supply-for-intel-motherboard-dh61ag.html</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 09 Nov 2012 00:33:17 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I have the Intel motherboard DH61AG and is 19VDC, What power supply do you recommend. DC TO DC to use it in my car. thanks I'm new.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->I have the Intel motherboard DH61AG and is 19VDC, What power supply do you recommend. DC TO DC to use it in my car. thanks I'm new.<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.mp3car.com/forumdisplay.php?f=11">Power Supplies</category>
			<dc:creator>HoldMode</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mp3car.com/showthread.php?t=153755</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>DSATX Sleep/Hibernate Issue</title>
			<link>power-supplies/153717-dsatx-sleep-hibernate-issue.html</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 03 Nov 2012 00:55:37 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I've used the DSATX for years, without any issues, but this new build has me scratching my head. 
DSATX is flashed to firmware 1.1.5. Current set to...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->I've used the DSATX for years, without any issues, but this new build has me scratching my head.<br />
DSATX is flashed to firmware 1.1.5. Current set to send computer to hibernate after ACC goes away.<br />
It can wake the computer on ACC signal 100%, however it could rarely send the computer to sleep.<br />
Everytime ACC goes low, the DSATX would send a pulse, but computer stays on DSATX LED has 2 blinks (pulse sent,awaiting shutdown) for 90 seconds, and then proceed to cut the power to carpc, causing hard shutdown. <br />
I've put the DSATX into dumb mode and using the power button, i was able to sleep &amp; wake the carpc 100% of the time. So the motherboard &amp; windows isn't to blame.<br />
I've varied the DSATX pulse width from 200ms to 3000ms, with no result.<br />
Now i'm totally out of ideas. Let me know if you've got some ideas.<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.mp3car.com/forumdisplay.php?f=11">Power Supplies</category>
			<dc:creator>Punky</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mp3car.com/showthread.php?t=153717</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Opus ITX not powering on motherboard</title>
			<link>power-supplies/153685-opus-itx-not-powering-on-motherboard.html</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 30 Oct 2012 22:36:42 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>I have had the standard Opus ITX (powered by Opus 120 I think) package running for over 5 years now, and all of the sudden my motherboard is not...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->I have had the standard Opus ITX (powered by Opus 120 I think) package running for over 5 years now, and all of the sudden my motherboard is not powering on.  Fans power on, but not the motherboard or monitor.  Funny thing is, as soon as ignition is turned off, the motherboard begins to boot up, only to shut down once the shutdown delay kicks in.  Any ideas on what the problem could be?<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.mp3car.com/forumdisplay.php?f=11">Power Supplies</category>
			<dc:creator>WarningSLO</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mp3car.com/showthread.php?t=153685</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Distribution block questiom</title>
			<link>power-supplies/153669-distribution-block-questiom.html</link>
			<pubDate>Mon, 29 Oct 2012 05:07:34 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[1/ Is it ok to use a block that provides both ground and power, or even one block for ground and another for power? I'm a tech and work with...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->1/ Is it ok to use a block that provides both ground and power, or even one block for ground and another for power? I'm a tech and work with potential high current and have always been told everything needs it's own ground. Does that not apply with things in the car? Why?<br />
<br />
2/ My needs range from needing a 5amps out to 80amps, but a lot of the multiport blocks give ranges like 20-50, 30-80, 50-120 amps. If I have a 5amp AGU fuse, can't I still use it with a block rated 40-100 amps or so?<br />
<br />
Thanks<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.mp3car.com/forumdisplay.php?f=11">Power Supplies</category>
			<dc:creator>Champak</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mp3car.com/showthread.php?t=153669</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Where to find M2 ATX PSU cable</title>
			<link>power-supplies/153658-where-to-find-m2-atx-psu-cable.html</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 27 Oct 2012 22:04:00 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>I cant seem to find my M2 ATX power cable and nowhere sells a male 20 pin to male 20 pin cable.  Any ideas on where to pick up another?</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->I cant seem to find my M2 ATX power cable and nowhere sells a male 20 pin to male 20 pin cable.  Any ideas on where to pick up another?<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.mp3car.com/forumdisplay.php?f=11">Power Supplies</category>
			<dc:creator>bmw_car_pc</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mp3car.com/showthread.php?t=153658</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>uSDC20D Not powering/shutting down computer.</title>
			<link>power-supplies/153654-usdc20d-not-powering-shutting-down-computer.html</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 26 Oct 2012 17:00:51 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Hi all. 
 
I have a problem with my uSDC not powering up my computer. I have wired it into my car as per the diagram with the one exception of the...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->Hi all.<br />
<br />
I have a problem with my uSDC not powering up my computer. I have wired it into my car as per the diagram with the one exception of the optional computer sense line. When ever I turn ignition or the override switch the stereo (also connected to this line) turns on the but the computer doesnt seem to receive a pulse to turn it on. <br />
<br />
I have checked and has a sparky friend look at but can't work out where I may have gone wrong. Does anyone have any advice about how to go about fixing this issue.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://store.mp3car.com/Micro_Shutdown_Controller_p/pwr-007.htm" target="_blank">http://store.mp3car.com/Micro_Shutdo..._p/pwr-007.htm</a><br />
<a href="http://www.mpegbox.com/microsdc/usdc20d_InputCS.pdfs" target="_blank">http://www.mpegbox.com/microsdc/usdc20d_InputCS.pdfs</a> ; its sceme F<br />
<br />
Thanks.<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.mp3car.com/forumdisplay.php?f=11">Power Supplies</category>
			<dc:creator>Veqlargh</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mp3car.com/showthread.php?t=153654</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>using universal car adapter</title>
			<link>power-supplies/153544-using-universal-car-adapter.html</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 13 Oct 2012 20:58:30 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>i am jumping between the idea of either using an inverter or a car laptop charger. i know i would buy a carnetix psu but that is not in my budget...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->i am jumping between the idea of either using an inverter or a car laptop charger. i know i would buy a carnetix psu but that is not in my budget right now. i was thinking of buying a universal car adapter like a igo or kensington and hacking off the cigarette lighter part and wiring in my car with an inline fuse. i was thinking of somehow wiring it up to a distribution block and adding a switch in the front to control when i want it on and off, so i can just sometimes run the laptop off of the battery<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.mp3car.com/forumdisplay.php?f=11">Power Supplies</category>
			<dc:creator>richpngu</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mp3car.com/showthread.php?t=153544</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>need lots of power!!!</title>
			<link>power-supplies/153519-need-lots-of-power.html</link>
			<pubDate>Mon, 08 Oct 2012 07:56:07 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I have a sucessfull carputer, been going for 3 years, my brother owns the car now. i thought it was a challance intergrating a 10" screen now i want...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->I have a sucessfull carputer, been going for 3 years, my brother owns the car now. i thought it was a challance intergrating a 10&quot; screen now i want to intergrate $ 12&quot; screens, this means more prossesing more ram and a real video card. the only cards that support 4 screens suck back 400w peek!!, granted im sure i will never go above 200w cosidering they take 70w just idling. <br />
<br />
then the mobo ram and i5 processor and usb's will take another 140-200w just by them selves... so i need to cover about 500-600w in this car. can i stack the 250w units?<br />
<br />
<br />
I reallly realllllllly dont wont to use a inverter :( i can get a perfect sine wave inverter and create a logic board to turn it on and off. but that just $$$$$$$ those perfect sine at work we deal with <a href="http://www.tundrainternational.com/en/pages/index" target="_blank">http://www.tundrainternational.com/en/pages/index</a> and they have a pure perfect sine wave inverter that puts out 120v at 60hz at all times no matter what! offered in 300w 600w 1200w RMS so the 600w one on a 800w PSU would work really well with no noise. none at all. ever no matter what the car dose. but even at cost its flippin $600 for that one. :(<br />
<br />
<br />
I would like a more elagent solution, something more intergrated that i can use to boot and go into suspend/hybernate.<br />
<br />
<br />
Why am i putting in 4 12&quot; screens into a car? why not!, i like challenges.<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.mp3car.com/forumdisplay.php?f=11">Power Supplies</category>
			<dc:creator>portabuddy</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mp3car.com/showthread.php?t=153519</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Help a newb pick a PSU</title>
			<link>power-supplies/153494-help-a-newb-pick-a-psu.html</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 04 Oct 2012 16:29:36 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Sooo.. i'm sure this has been done to death already, but i couldn't find it. 
 
I have an older Mobo with 20 pin ATX and 4 pin p4 power connection to...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->Sooo.. i'm sure this has been done to death already, but i couldn't find it.<br />
<br />
I have an older Mobo with 20 pin ATX and 4 pin p4 power connection to the board. Will the M4-ATX be the right PSU for me? Or does someone else have a different suggestion.<br />
<br />
Board has run with a 150W ATX PSU while it was being used as a POS system for a restaurant, So the M4 should power it fine, correct? <br />
<br />
Any and all constructive (or otherwise) criticism and suggestions appreciated.<br />
<br />
Thanks guys!<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.mp3car.com/forumdisplay.php?f=11">Power Supplies</category>
			<dc:creator>beequewl</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mp3car.com/showthread.php?t=153494</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>High current USB hub/power supply</title>
			<link>power-supplies/153399-high-current-usb-hub-power-supply.html</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 28 Sep 2012 11:47:35 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I am installing a tablet, MiFi, bluetooth receiver and a couple of other peripheral's in the car. The all run off USB, but are quite high current....]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->I am installing a tablet, MiFi, bluetooth receiver and a couple of other peripheral's in the car. The all run off USB, but are quite high current. The tablet will need 2A and everything else will need 1A.<br />
<br />
Does anyone know of a suitable power supply or hub? Or any ideas about the best way to power it all?<br />
<br />
Thanks!<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.mp3car.com/forumdisplay.php?f=11">Power Supplies</category>
			<dc:creator>SynC</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mp3car.com/showthread.php?t=153399</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>inverter question and setup</title>
			<link>power-supplies/153373-inverter-question-and-setup.html</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 25 Sep 2012 23:04:25 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>before i start i know that ideally i should be using the carnetix p1900 or 2140 but right now that is outside my budget area. 
 
i plan on using a...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->before i start i know that ideally i should be using the carnetix p1900 or 2140 but right now that is outside my budget area.<br />
<br />
i plan on using a laptop as my setup and i found a 800w inverter on craigslist for $30. from what i have read using an inverter will not be able to survive crank for no more then a few months. also if that if the laptop is on when i turn on my car that it will force my laptop to restart. what i have been thinking about in doing is either putting in a manual switch to control the inverter to turn on only when i want or to build a relay that would be able to delay the inverter from turning on when the car is started up.<br />
<br />
the first setup would be that i would power the laptop off of its own battery, when the battery is low i would flip the switch on to turn on the inverter to charge and run the laptop. i would also have to build something in between the ignition and switch so that the inverter would turn off when i would turn the car off.<br />
<br />
the second setup i was thinking about would be trying to build a relay that wait a minute or so before it turns on and starts powering the laptop. the laptop would already be on and running before the inverter turns on.<br />
<br />
does it matter if the laptop is on before the inverter turns on?<br />
<br />
i have been also considering just building a dc dc regulator but i am not that confident yet in my soldering skills to take on that task.<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.mp3car.com/forumdisplay.php?f=11">Power Supplies</category>
			<dc:creator>richpngu</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mp3car.com/showthread.php?t=153373</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>not enough power?</title>
			<link>power-supplies/153367-not-enough-power.html</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 25 Sep 2012 10:04:09 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Hey you guys 
 
Dont really post here much, but im building a pc for my 2nd car (toyota Mr2) 
 
I've got a mini-itx 
COMMELL LV-672 Pentium 4,...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->Hey you guys<br />
<br />
Dont really post here much, but im building a pc for my 2nd car (toyota Mr2)<br />
<br />
I've got a mini-itx<br />
COMMELL LV-672 Pentium 4, 3.4Ghz, with 1 GB Ram and a 2.5&quot; hdd, <br />
<br />
Now i installed windows 7 using my home test psu and all worked fine, but when i put the board in the car with a 160 watt m2-atx psu, the pc boots, start installs the other usb devices that are already in the car, reboots then wont boot properly again, just starts booting then restarts, take it inside and all boots fine.<br />
<br />
Now could this either be the psu in the car doesnt have enough wattage to power it or its over heating?  The cpu temp in the bios shows about 104 degrees F.<br />
<br />
Ive located the pc in the cubby box behind the seat with a fan sucking out the hot air too.<br />
<br />
I also have a via 600mhz mini itx board but this works fine but is very very very very slow.  I'd like to use centrafuse 3 or 4 but the run really slow, centrafuse 2 works ok though but dont like the look of it.<br />
<br />
And anyone suggest a psu that would be better.  In my other car i have a 3ghz p4 on a micro atx board with a 210 watt psu and that works fine too<br />
<br />
Any help would be great<br />
<br />
Adz<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.mp3car.com/forumdisplay.php?f=11">Power Supplies</category>
			<dc:creator>adzxjr</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mp3car.com/showthread.php?t=153367</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Magden Gauges power supply replacement, Any recommendations ?</title>
			<link>power-supplies/153295-magden-gauges-power-supply-replacement-any-recommendations.html</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 19 Sep 2012 11:50:08 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Hi, 
 
I got a used Magden Gauges Computer from a friend, Installed it in my car &amp; Connected everything as it should but unfortunately the unit...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->Hi,<br />
<br />
I got a used Magden Gauges Computer from a friend, Installed it in my car &amp; Connected everything as it should but unfortunately the unit didn't turn on.<br />
<br />
So, I opened the case up to bench test the computer,Using a multimeter i found that the power supply is showing 0 volts on the 12V rail. I swapped the power supply with an ATX one &amp; Voila, The unit worked as it should.<br />
<br />
Now, My question, Do you have any idea what power supply they used in the Magden ?, It does look like a pico psu, But AFAIK, Pico cannot be used in cars.<br />
<br />
Here's some pics,<br />
<img src="http://i.imgur.com/Fceyu.jpg" border="0" alt="" /><br />
<br />
<img src="http://i.imgur.com/JZkCr.jpg" border="0" alt="" /><br />
<br />
Any idea on a replacement ?<br />
<br />
Thanks,<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.mp3car.com/forumdisplay.php?f=11">Power Supplies</category>
			<dc:creator>amRoNics</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mp3car.com/showthread.php?t=153295</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[Regulator or ATX PSU? What's the functional difference?]]></title>
			<link>power-supplies/153287-regulator-or-atx-psu-whats-the-functional-difference.html</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 18 Sep 2012 10:07:49 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Hi folks, 
 
I'm designing a power supply system for the electronics in a campervan. It will be over-engineered and not exceed 60% ratings of any...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->Hi folks,<br />
<br />
I'm designing a power supply system for the electronics in a campervan. It will be over-engineered and not exceed 60% ratings of any regulated power supply device. Price isn't the final determining factor, rather efficiency and functionality is.<br />
<br />
What I want to query is what's the <i>effective</i> difference between a high end DC-DC regulator like the CNX-P2140 or using an Opus DCX6.360 PSU if I was powering 100W of electronics in the vehicle? Is a PSU designed for powering an ATX mobo not suitable for only powering other electronics such as TVs and WiFi routers off it's 12V and 5V output lines? Is there anything that says the ATX PSU should only be used on a motherboard? Does a regulator behave differently from a PSU? Both are simply designed to offer clean power outputs from my point of view.<br />
<br />
I planned on having a power terminal strip of 12V and one for 5V and then running power lines off to each device in the vehicle from that, always keeping within the wattage budget of the power supply. If I can get away with using a 360W PSU instead of a 185W regulator then I've basically doubled my power budget. But if the PSU needs distinct motherboard-like ratio of power loadings on the 12V and 5V lines or it gets cranky, I need to know that.<br />
<br />
Thanks.<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.mp3car.com/forumdisplay.php?f=11">Power Supplies</category>
			<dc:creator>vanpower</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mp3car.com/showthread.php?t=153287</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>M2 atx powered without pc?</title>
			<link>power-supplies/153251-m2-atx-powered-without-pc.html</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 15 Sep 2012 03:04:22 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>I need to get a clean 12v power in my car and ever since I upgraded my battery I get close to 14v.  I have a spare m2 atx .... Can I use that without...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->I need to get a clean 12v power in my car and ever since I upgraded my battery I get close to 14v.  I have a spare m2 atx .... Can I use that without the PC to power my device off the 12v rail? I tried plugging it into the car with the ground switch and unswitched wires connected but couldn't locate a 12v wire with my multimeter. Any ideas?<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.mp3car.com/forumdisplay.php?f=11">Power Supplies</category>
			<dc:creator>khisanthax</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mp3car.com/showthread.php?t=153251</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>5v usb powered relay</title>
			<link>power-supplies/153240-5v-usb-powered-relay.html</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 14 Sep 2012 03:47:40 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Hi 
This is doing my head in :)  
I need to switch on/off a 12volt powered 5v regulated power supply when my laptop fires up/shutdown via the laptops...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->Hi<br />
This is doing my head in :) <br />
I need to switch on/off a 12volt powered 5v regulated power supply when my laptop fires up/shutdown via the laptops usb port (so I can power a usb hub). I tried a few 5v solid state relays but they dont work :( I ended up with high resistance on the load side of the relay, so Im assuming from my basic eletricky knowledge that they are not suitable for this application. Can anyone post up a link to a suitable relay(ebay) and anything else I need to get this final headache done<br />
Thanks in advance<br />
Wozza<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.mp3car.com/forumdisplay.php?f=11">Power Supplies</category>
			<dc:creator>Wozza</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mp3car.com/showthread.php?t=153240</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>2nd Battery not preforming like I expected.</title>
			<link>power-supplies/153218-2nd-battery-not-preforming-like-i-expected.html</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 09 Sep 2012 21:42:21 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Alright guys here's the deal: 
 
I take my car to the local drive in regularly, and was using my carputer for the radio, but my problem is after...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->Alright guys here's the deal:<br />
<br />
I take my car to the local drive in regularly, and was using my carputer for the radio, but my problem is after about 1.5 movies the battery is dead. Im running an i5 with a 40w kenwood amp and hd radio. So my thoughts were simple as this. Wire in a 2nd battery, extend computer life to last 2-2.5 movies. Well, I wired it in, and the computer still cuts off about 2 hours into the night. <br />
<br />
<br />
My batteries are wired directly to each other. + to + / - to - with fuses in the appropriate places. No isolator or switcher, because Im using the same sized battery, with power being pulled off the + terminal of the 2nd battery. <br />
<br />
<br />
Am I just stupid for thinking it would work this way? Or.... is something wrong?<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.mp3car.com/forumdisplay.php?f=11">Power Supplies</category>
			<dc:creator>raggedrebel92</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mp3car.com/showthread.php?t=153218</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Regulated 12V needed for Car to mount router.</title>
			<link>power-supplies/153188-regulated-12v-needed-for-car-to-mount-router.html</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 06 Sep 2012 18:52:35 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Hi 
 
I've in the past been using a WRT54G router when on camping trips or at concerts as it had an inbuild voltage regulator that would handle...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->Hi<br />
<br />
I've in the past been using a WRT54G router when on camping trips or at concerts as it had an inbuild voltage regulator that would handle external voltages from 7v all the way up to about 20v.<br />
<br />
This meant it could be plugged into car electronics directly without too many concerns.<br />
<br />
However I need to replace this unit now with a WNDR3700 which does not seem to have a voltage regulator on it so need to supply it a smooth 12v (+/- 10%), there is contradictory information about whether it needs under 1A or 2.5A but I'll get to the bottom of that.<br />
<br />
Commercial voltage regulators seem to cost a ridiculous amount of money so I thought people here could be able to give me some guidance.<br />
<br />
I'm based in the UK so please take that into account if suggesting specific components, I'm happy enough to make up a breadboard (though my soldering skills are somewhat rusty) if it's not too complicated.<br />
<br />
Thanks in advance.<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.mp3car.com/forumdisplay.php?f=11">Power Supplies</category>
			<dc:creator>pinocchio</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mp3car.com/showthread.php?t=153188</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>DSATX - It works for me</title>
			<link>power-supplies/153130-dsatx-it-works-for-me.html</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 30 Aug 2012 05:32:58 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>After using the M2 and trying to use the M4 I have finally found a power supply that works just great. 
 
The M2 worked until I overloaded it with...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->After using the M2 and trying to use the M4 I have finally found a power supply that works just great.<br />
<br />
The M2 worked until I overloaded it with too many devices. The M4 was just too clever for my setup.<br />
<br />
I have a Quanmax KEEX-2030 3.5&quot; SBC which uses the P4-ATX connector and does not have any other ATX connector. Both the M2 and M4 needed the green wire grounded before the power supply would even start. To be fair, they are 20 or 24 pin ATX power supplies and my board is not one of those.<br />
<br />
I asked that the DSATX be pre-programmed to ignore the PS-ON signal and the power supply that arrived works just great. It starts pefectly. It runs without problems and shuts down exactly as programmed. I recommend it highly but if you only have a P4-ATX connection then make sure your get it preprogrammed.<br />
<br />
Very happy.<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.mp3car.com/forumdisplay.php?f=11">Power Supplies</category>
			<dc:creator>Petrie</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mp3car.com/showthread.php?t=153130</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>m2-atx m3-atx and xonar trouble</title>
			<link>power-supplies/153088-m2-atx-m3-atx-and-xonar-trouble.html</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 23 Aug 2012 11:41:58 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>First post and last effort before tossing the m2-atx into the garbage bin. 
 
I have been trying to get the m2-atx etc. working with my Xonar D2 for...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->First post and last effort before tossing the m2-atx into the garbage bin.<br />
<br />
I have been trying to get the m2-atx etc. working with my Xonar D2 for a few weeks now. Correction; i wanted to get the m3-atx working with the xonar, but bought the m2-atx because I thought my troubles might be resolved with a hgher rated solution. <br />
<br />
Symptom: analogue audio is unlistenable only when supplying power via m2-atx (and m3-atx). Alternative power sources do not show symptom (including lower rated psu) Checked all possible avenues of stupid mistakes one could make, but no resolution.<br />
<br />
In the end the problem seems to confine itself to the -12V supply of the m2-atx. Voltage drop (or is it rise) from -12V (no load) to -4.3V (with load). My alternative psu (Morex 60 watts (-12V rated @ 0.1 Amps)) does not have a drop/rise in voltage and runs the Xonar perfectly smooth.<br />
<br />
What could cause this -12V to -4.3V drop? <br />
<br />
I am assuming it is because the xonar is drawing too much -12V current, but that would mean all M-line solutions are out (they are all rated 0.15 amps for -12V). Additionally, the Morex rated @ 0.1 amps for -12V is pulling the load happily.<br />
<br />
Does anybody have suggestions for making the -12V supply from the M2-atx behave or create a modifucation to supply -12V alternatively?<br />
<br />
Many thanks<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.mp3car.com/forumdisplay.php?f=11">Power Supplies</category>
			<dc:creator>Schuit</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mp3car.com/showthread.php?t=153088</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>19v power supply?</title>
			<link>power-supplies/153034-19v-power-supply.html</link>
			<pubDate>Mon, 20 Aug 2012 06:37:32 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I'm looking at a mini PC for my car PC but see the input for them is 19v.  Are there any 12 to 19v power supplies that would be suitable for this? 
...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->I'm looking at a mini PC for my car PC but see the input for them is 19v.  Are there any 12 to 19v power supplies that would be suitable for this?<br />
<br />
Thanks.<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.mp3car.com/forumdisplay.php?f=11">Power Supplies</category>
			<dc:creator>sebberry</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mp3car.com/showthread.php?t=153034</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[Using a 'LED power supply' on a Pico-ITX?]]></title>
			<link>power-supplies/153003-using-a-led-power-supply-on-a-pico-itx.html</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 15 Aug 2012 14:44:41 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I've just purchased a Pico-ITX moterboard I plan to use in a car PC build and am looking at a 12V power supply for it. Unlike standard ATX/ITX boards...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->I've just purchased a Pico-ITX moterboard I plan to use in a car PC build and am looking at a 12V power supply for it. Unlike standard ATX/ITX boards this only uses a 5V supply at a minimum of 8W (according to the datasheet). This means that standard car PSUs are overkill and not suitable in this case.<br />
<br />
Looking on eBay I see 'LED power supplies' that take in anywhere up to 24V and supposedly put out a steady 5V (15W or 25W depending on version). Best thing is they can be had for under $10.<br />
<br />
Are they at all suitable for this purpose? If not can someone suggest a 5v PSU that would be?<br />
<br />
(P.S. Sorry if this has already been asked, tried to use the search feature to look for older posts but its currently giving me an error.)<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.mp3car.com/forumdisplay.php?f=11">Power Supplies</category>
			<dc:creator>lameboyadvance</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mp3car.com/showthread.php?t=153003</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Dcdc USB and pico thumping noise</title>
			<link>power-supplies/152900-dcdc-usb-and-pico-thumping-noise.html</link>
			<pubDate>Mon, 06 Aug 2012 00:25:47 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Hello all. I am building boat puter for music, video, etc. I have a zotac mother board and a lilliput touch screen. I have a pics power supply which...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->Hello all. I am building boat puter for music, video, etc. I have a zotac mother board and a lilliput touch screen. I have a pics power supply which runs the mother board perfectly. But because I am on a boat and will have large voltage swings I wanted to use a dcdc regulator.  I purchased mini box intelligent dcdc USB regulator to supply 12 volts to the pics and the touchscreen and quad amp.  The problem I am having is the Dcdc regulator is causing a heart beat thumping noise in the speakers and it doesn't stop unless I by pass the regulator. <br />
<br />
Any ideas?<br />
<br />
Any other options to power the board, amp, and screen?<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.mp3car.com/forumdisplay.php?f=11">Power Supplies</category>
			<dc:creator>celeryman22</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mp3car.com/showthread.php?t=152900</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Automotive PSUs and Pico-ITX boards with no ATX connector.</title>
			<link>power-supplies/152898-automotive-psus-and-pico-itx-boards-with-no-atx-connector.html</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 05 Aug 2012 16:59:40 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Hi  
 
I have been looking at pico-itx motherboards, the newer boards with atoms don't appear to have ATX power connectors anymore and in some cases...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->Hi <br />
<br />
I have been looking at pico-itx motherboards, the newer boards with atoms don't appear to have ATX power connectors anymore and in some cases only have 2 screw terminals for power.<br />
<br />
How do you go about powering these boards with an M3/M4 PSU?<br />
<br />
I am hoping to be able to get the pico in the dash behind the bybyte frame as I cannot use any of the space in the boot due to the car always been full for work. Ideally would have liked to use the bybyte Nano-itx Case but I don't think the Jetta/Bora dash is deep enough.<br />
<br />
Thanks for any advice,<br />
Jay<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.mp3car.com/forumdisplay.php?f=11">Power Supplies</category>
			<dc:creator>Devit123</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mp3car.com/showthread.php?t=152898</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Playstation 3 power supply</title>
			<link>power-supplies/152891-playstation-3-power-supply.html</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 04 Aug 2012 19:27:14 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Hi I am looking at preeminently fitting a ps3 in my transit minibus taxi to while away the boring hours sat on the rank. I have a lilput monitor from...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->Hi I am looking at preeminently fitting a ps3 in my transit minibus taxi to while away the boring hours sat on the rank. I have a lilput monitor from a previous car pc/Xbox install and my kenwood DVD player has a av in for the sound. I am planning to fit a decent sized solid state drive in the ps3 but my question is how can I power it? All I seam to find is everyone saying &quot;use an inverter&quot;. But I didn't see the point in upping the voltage to 240 for the ps3 to drop it bk down again. This was not a prob with the Xbox because the psu is separate to the machine so I ran it off a standard 12v to 12v pc power supply and a lead I bought off eBay with a atx plug one end and a Xbox one the other. But the ps3 power supply is built in. I was thinking of doing the same thing again but hard wiering it straight to the ps3 and dumping its 240v psu out for a 12v to 12v supply. I am just unsure of the ps3 power requirements and there for what oc supply to use. Any advice would be grate thanks :)<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.mp3car.com/forumdisplay.php?f=11">Power Supplies</category>
			<dc:creator>AndrewSadler</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mp3car.com/showthread.php?t=152891</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Powering 5V 5A DC/DC converter with accessory relay</title>
			<link>power-supplies/152874-powering-5v-5a-dc-dc-converter-with-accessory-relay.html</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 03 Aug 2012 01:21:28 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Hey guys, 
 
Getting my project on the go, I have another hurdle. I need to power the 5V 5A DC/DC converter, so I was thinking along the lines of...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->Hey guys,<br />
<br />
Getting my project on the go, I have another hurdle. I need to power the 5V 5A DC/DC converter, so I was thinking along the lines of switching a relay from the accessory line - instant shutdown is not an issue. Can the accessory line provide enough power to switch an automotive 20-30A relay?<br />
<br />
My OEM radio cuts the sound while cranking, and when measured with a DMM there is a drop to 10V with no load - if I find that this is enough to cut the power to the PSU can I then run another relay from the IGN line? (In essence, 2 relays, both from the same battery supply, switched from ACC and IGN)?<br />
<br />
Cheers guys,<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.mp3car.com/forumdisplay.php?f=11">Power Supplies</category>
			<dc:creator>sparx</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mp3car.com/showthread.php?t=152874</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Powering USB Hub option</title>
			<link>power-supplies/152831-powering-usb-hub-option.html</link>
			<pubDate>Mon, 30 Jul 2012 14:43:12 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Hey Gang, 
 
I am looing at changing a hub from unpowered to powered due to some adjustments I am doing in my car.  I have been considering the...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->Hey Gang,<br />
<br />
I am looing at changing a hub from unpowered to powered due to some adjustments I am doing in my car.  I have been considering the <a href="http://store.mp3car.com/DC_Powered_4_Port_USB_Hub_CNX_P5USB_12v_and_24v_p/adt-015.htm" target="_blank">http://store.mp3car.com/DC_Powered_4..._p/adt-015.htm</a>, the StarTech ST7200USBM Mountable Rugged Industrial 7 Port USB Hub, or the RAM Tough Powered 6 Port USB Hub -- but for one reason or another non really fit what I want.  I also considered the DCDC-USB Intelligent DC-DC Converter with USB Interface and Metal Enclosure, which is WAY overkill for what I am looking at doing (and pricey to boot).  While doing my research I came across the following device:<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.ebay.com/itm/130731728742?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&amp;_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649" target="_blank">http://www.ebay.com/itm/130731728742...84.m1438.l2649</a><br />
<br />
I imanged using a Y-cable (like the following):<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.ebay.com/itm/POWER-DATA-USB-EXTENTION-Y-CABLE-2-A-MALE-TO-1-FEMALE-/270555945221?pt=US_USB_Cables_Hubs_Adapters&amp;hash=item3efe641905" target="_blank">http://www.ebay.com/itm/POWER-DATA-U...item3efe641905</a><br />
<br />
to provide power to the hub -- however, I am unsure how that would work out - given that usually you use the  y-cable with 2 usb ports from the same hub.  Would this idea blow something up?  Would it actually work?  Any ideas...<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.mp3car.com/forumdisplay.php?f=11">Power Supplies</category>
			<dc:creator>nasa</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mp3car.com/showthread.php?t=152831</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>m3 atx psu help</title>
			<link>power-supplies/152771-m3-atx-psu-help.html</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 24 Jul 2012 14:13:55 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>i bought the toughbox 14 package and i recently tried to start it and load all of the mobo software and install the os on it. but im not getting any...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->i bought the toughbox 14 package and i recently tried to start it and load all of the mobo software and install the os on it. but im not getting any video out. since im kinda a novice at computers i tried disconnecting and reconnecting all of my components and harnesses to eliminate oxidation on the contacts, but still no video out. i took it to a computer store and had a diagnostic done on it. they said the reason im not getting any video output is because im using a 20 pin atx psu and i need a 24 pin atx psu. but the documentation on the mobo says either a 20 or 24 pin will work. im just using the 20 pin psu by itself. do i need something else to make it work properly that im missing? im thinking its probably not that i need a 24 pin psu because why would they sell the mobo and the psu in a bundle together if they werent compatible? has anyone come across this? i could really use some help.  thanks guys<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.mp3car.com/forumdisplay.php?f=11">Power Supplies</category>
			<dc:creator>finn</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mp3car.com/showthread.php?t=152771</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>How to control (cut off/turn on) laptops PSU by ignition - help needed</title>
			<link>power-supplies/152679-how-to-control-cut-off-turn-on-laptops-psu-by-ignition-help-needed.html</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 19 Jul 2012 20:04:48 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[hi,  
last couple of days trying to figure out how to cut off/turn on laptops psu, mean ignition on-> psu gets 12v, ignition off-> no 12v for psu....]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->hi, <br />
last couple of days trying to figure out how to cut off/turn on laptops psu, mean ignition on-&gt; psu gets 12v, ignition off-&gt; no 12v for psu.<br />
the best (ideal) solution here is mp3car's uSDC20D but ...as I'm Ireland based postage costs is more than controller itself :( (can't justify paying 100$ for it)  so looking for simpler solution, DIY like :).<br />
no need here for remote laptop's power on function as I'm using one of 'adopted' oem radios remaining buttons as laptops power button, just simply circuit which doing simply 'thing' hooked up between car's battery and laptop's psu ....<br />
by any chance, have you guys schematic or link to ? <br />
any help and ideas more than welcome<br />
peace<br />
Kris<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.mp3car.com/forumdisplay.php?f=11">Power Supplies</category>
			<dc:creator>stuff.hunter</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mp3car.com/showthread.php?t=152679</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Sola HD power supply search</title>
			<link>power-supplies/152612-sola-hd-power-supply-search.html</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 14 Jul 2012 19:41:05 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Hey folks, 
 
very urgent, i'm  looking for used Power Supply SolaHD like this one...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->Hey folks,<br />
<br />
very urgent, i'm  looking for used Power Supply SolaHD like this one <a href="https://mrosupply.com/product/1011910-SolaHD-Electrical_Power_Supplies_Switching_Power_Supplies" target="_blank">https://mrosupply.com/product/101191...Power_Supplies</a> please  let me know if you know where to get it  in Europe! Thanks in advance!<br />
<br />
Best regards,<br />
<br />
Jack<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.mp3car.com/forumdisplay.php?f=11">Power Supplies</category>
			<dc:creator>JackDani</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mp3car.com/showthread.php?t=152612</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>power supply for Maxdata favorit 500</title>
			<link>power-supplies/152611-power-supply-for-maxdata-favorit-500-a.html</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 14 Jul 2012 18:42:02 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[hi guys, 
 
I'm new to this forum with my first little project. i have a Maxdata favorit 500 fanless mini pc that i think is perfect for my car.  
...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->hi guys,<br />
<br />
I'm new to this forum with my first little project. i have a Maxdata favorit 500 fanless mini pc that i think is perfect for my car. <br />
<br />
I've already got the lilliput in its enclosure ready to be fitted but i cant find the right power supply. the input required is 30w, 12vdc, 2.5a.<br />
<br />
any help would really be appreciated.<br />
<br />
cheers<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.mp3car.com/forumdisplay.php?f=11">Power Supplies</category>
			<dc:creator>tari187</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mp3car.com/showthread.php?t=152611</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Electronics 101</title>
			<link>power-supplies/152583-electronics-101-a.html</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 12 Jul 2012 21:03:01 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Certainly never been too good at electronics. 
 
I need to hard wire a laptop charger to come on via the ignition, so this needs to go through a...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->Certainly never been too good at electronics.<br />
<br />
I need to hard wire a laptop charger to come on via the ignition, so this needs to go through a relay. 4 pin I assume... Power, earth, ignition live, and power out?<br />
<br />
Now where I'm lost is the specs...<br />
<br />
Its going between the 12-19v converter, so 12v obviously. But how many amps?<br />
<br />
What should the coil resistance be? And coil nominal current?<br />
<br />
What size fuse? Just to be sure... should it be wired between the battery and relay, or relay and converter? <br />
<br />
Also needs to have an off over ride switch, does that go before or after fuse?<br />
<br />
Cheers<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.mp3car.com/forumdisplay.php?f=11">Power Supplies</category>
			<dc:creator>qwerty9</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mp3car.com/showthread.php?t=152583</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Having problems with power supply.</title>
			<link>power-supplies/152581-having-problems-with-power-supply.html</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 12 Jul 2012 20:45:22 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Hi all, im new here.  Seems like a good place to get help so here goes :).  I am trying to setup a media center for my car.  I am using a pentium 4...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->Hi all, im new here.  Seems like a good place to get help so here goes :).  I am trying to setup a media center for my car.  I am using a pentium 4 3ghz and the mobo is a Medion Ms-6719.  Looking around I purchased a power supply from flea bay.  Its labeled as a M2-ATX 160w and says for &quot;Full power pentium 4&quot;.  However, the system will not start the post.  I connected a Amp meter in-line and the whole set-up is only pulling 1.2A even at initial connection.  The system boots with the conventional power supply.  Could this be a faulty power supply?  Thanks.<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.mp3car.com/forumdisplay.php?f=11">Power Supplies</category>
			<dc:creator>noggenfogger</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mp3car.com/showthread.php?t=152581</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>n00b install help Opus + laptop + touch screen</title>
			<link>power-supplies/152580-n00b-install-help-opus-laptop-touch-screen.html</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 12 Jul 2012 20:12:39 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Hi, 
 
I am working on installing a laptop connected to a touchscreen in my car. I bought this Opus DC-DC supply (*model DCA9.180*) to power them...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->Hi,<br />
<br />
I am working on installing a laptop connected to a touchscreen in my car. I bought this Opus DC-DC supply (<b>model DCA9.180</b>) to power them both:<br />
<a href="http://www.opussolutions.com/product/166/DCA9_180__180W_.html" target="_blank">http://www.opussolutions.com/product...80__180W_.html</a><br />
<br />
I got the touch screen (<b>Lilliput 669</b>) from the store here:<br />
<a href="http://store.mp3car.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=DSH-033" target="_blank">http://store.mp3car.com/ProductDetai...ctCode=DSH-033</a><br />
<br />
and the laptop is a <b>Dell Latitude D600</b> I purchased in a used equipment sale at work. It came with a port replicator / dock that I'm planning to use for the install, so I can hardwire it in the car and have the ability to eject the laptop if I ever want to use it outside the car. It is a <b>D/APR model number PR01X</b>.<br />
<br />
The V1 and V2 outputs on the Opus are straightforward enough, but I need a sanity check for using the power switch output. I took apart the dock and did some probing with my multimeter.<br />
<br />
The switch board has two buttons on it, one for on/off and one for doing a &quot;hot eject&quot;. The on/off button is labeled <b>SW2</b> on the circuit board, and has these numbers printed around its solder points (the 0 in the middle is the button itself):<br />
<br />
1  2<br />
_0_<br />
3  4<br />
<br />
Next I looked at the wire bunch going to the switch board. There are 8 wires, and the first 4 are colored like this:<br />
<br />
1 - black<br />
2 - brown<br />
3 - red<br />
4 - orange<br />
<br />
With the A/C power brick attached I took a guess that the 1 / black was negative and I found a constant 5v on 3 / red. I pressed the SW2 button and nothing happened. Next I tested the 2 / brown as negative and 4 / orange as positive. I got the same initial results, but when I pressed the SW2 button the 5v on 4 / orange went to 0v.<br />
<br />
Is it safe to assume the brown and orange pair are what I will connect the power switch output from the Opus to? Is there any other testing I should do before wiring it all up? <br />
<br />
If you have any questions or comments about my proposed setup I would be glad to hear them. Thanks for reading!<br />
<br />
- Justin<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

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			<category domain="http://www.mp3car.com/forumdisplay.php?f=11">Power Supplies</category>
			<dc:creator>Justin 05 STi</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mp3car.com/showthread.php?t=152580</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>I have a big problem !! I need some help with a power problem.</title>
			<link>power-supplies/152521-i-have-a-big-problem-i-need-some-help-with-a-power-problem.html</link>
			<pubDate>Mon, 09 Jul 2012 22:49:01 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Hi 
  Ok heres my equipment. 
ITX motherboard with dual core 1.8 and 2gb. 
I have the M2-atx power supply. **** side note-> Tested on a regular atx...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->Hi<br />
  Ok heres my equipment.<br />
ITX motherboard with dual core 1.8 and 2gb.<br />
I have the M2-atx power supply. **** side note-&gt; Tested on a regular atx board and it powers up and powers down. It does get really hot and i noticed the green capitors are bulging on the top..(should i look at replacing those?)<br />
<br />
<font size="5">- so here is the problem.</font><br />
<br />
<b>my motherboard only has a 10-pin power plug.</b><br />
<br />
<img src="http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/attachments/power-supplies/66894d1341873634-i-have-a-big-problem-i-need-some-help-with-a-power-problem-p1010358.jpg" border="0" alt="Name:  P1010358.JPG
Views: 184
Size:  730.6 KB"  /><br />
<br />
<b>This is the original psu plug.</b><br />
<br />
<img src="http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/attachments/power-supplies/66895d1341873640-i-have-a-big-problem-i-need-some-help-with-a-power-problem-p1010362.jpg" border="0" alt="Name:  P1010362.JPG
Views: 173
Size:  472.4 KB"  /><br />
<br />
<b>I have a 20 pin to 10 pin plug but the wiring isnt the same as what comes from the original psu.</b><br />
<br />
<img src="http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/attachments/power-supplies/66896d1341873647-i-have-a-big-problem-i-need-some-help-with-a-power-problem-p1010363.jpg" border="0" alt="Name:  P1010363.JPG
Views: 185
Size:  605.3 KB"  /><br />
<br />
Do I make the 10 pin plug match the same wiring colors as the original psu has? Or how the H  do i make this work !! <br />
<br />
Thanks!!<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>


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			<category domain="http://www.mp3car.com/forumdisplay.php?f=11">Power Supplies</category>
			<dc:creator>Scion07Tc</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mp3car.com/showthread.php?t=152521</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Help with powering a cr@p load of devices!</title>
			<link>power-supplies/152457-help-with-powering-a-cr-p-load-of-devices.html</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 05 Jul 2012 17:42:34 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Finally decided to finish my install. Multizone and all. 
 
I bought 6 thin clients to act as the individual units for each seat. I was trying to...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->Finally decided to finish my install. Multizone and all.<br />
<br />
I bought 6 thin clients to act as the individual units for each seat. I was trying to wait for the Raspberry PI, but there is to much demand on the device. Since the rear seats do not need high end stuff, just the ability to listen to music video, and other miner things, I went with them. Each cost me $11.99 each. Each unit is 800mhz, 512mb RAM, and will each get a 4gb CF card for the OS (which have been purchased). I thought I would have issues with trying to power these units, but turns out that they are DC-DC power supplies. The seller said to basically fuse each PSU and connect to 12V power. So that is out of the way.<br />
<br />
 I replaced all the crappy 7 port hubs I have, with hubs from a company call Inland. They work flawlessly now and I have no device connection errors. All are powered via car adapter chargers, but will soon be powered by a individual PSU (READ BELOW). <br />
<br />
Here is where I am having major issues. I have 7 KVMP switches. One for each seat, then two for the driver. One is used to switched the main screen from main driver screen to rear entertainment (that allowed me to eliminate the driver needing two screens). The issue is that the KVMP switches all require 5V at 2.6amps. They will not work correctly with anything lower, causing issues. What can i do to power these units? I basically need 18.20 amps to power them. Adding all other 5V devices, that brings me to 23.20 amps. Most car based PSUs do not support that load. My logic was to pull out an inverter I originally wanted to use, it was to power the original multizone system, which consisted of a massive system that had the ability to support multiple users. The inverter is 600 watts. Then I am going to connect a desktop PSU to it which 450watts with 34amps on the 5V rail. Then I can wire the KVMP switches into the 5V rail. The PSU I am looking at supports 5v @ 34amps. I was going to hack the desktop PSU so that when power is applied it just turns on, meaning a PC doesnt trigger it. Basically the Opus will trigger the inverter to turn on via relay.<br />
<br />
 I think this idea is better because fusing so many devices (car chargers) is a huge pain. At least by using the desktop psu and inverter, it will all be regulated power. Does my idea seem sound? Anything I should look out for?<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.mp3car.com/forumdisplay.php?f=11">Power Supplies</category>
			<dc:creator>HiJackZX1</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mp3car.com/showthread.php?t=152457</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Need a solution for my power</title>
			<link>power-supplies/152451-need-a-solution-for-my-power.html</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 05 Jul 2012 10:46:01 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Right now I am running an M3-ATX. I am happy with it, besides that it seems to create annoying flickering on my display. I tried a better VGA cable...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->Right now I am running an M3-ATX. I am happy with it, besides that it seems to create annoying flickering on my display. I tried a better VGA cable already with thick ferrite filters, which helped a lot, but its still noticeable, especially on bright screens. Also tried powering the monitor directly from the cars battery instead over the the M3. No change there, probably because the monitor always gets ground from the PC over the VGA cable (I can completely remove the ground on the power connector and it will still run).<br />
<br />
So now I am thinking about a PSU that has the same features like the M3-ATX:<br />
- remote signal (not 100% necessary)<br />
- same power output (can be more of course)<br />
- automatic start and shutdown of the PC with no more than 5 sec delay<br />
- separate 5V rail delayed shutdown after the PC is turned off<br />
- 5V rail shutoff delay settable to least 30 mins. More would be better.<br />
- able to deliver stable power when starting the engine<br />
<br />
Is there such an PSU? All the ones I looked at didnt have at least one of the features I need. :(<br />
<br />
Thanks in advance.<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.mp3car.com/forumdisplay.php?f=11">Power Supplies</category>
			<dc:creator>Gullimonster</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mp3car.com/showthread.php?t=152451</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>question regarding the use of the PicoUPS to provide power when OPUS psu is offline.</title>
			<link>power-supplies/152315-question-regarding-the-use-of-the-picoups-to-provide-power-when-opus-psu-is-offline.html</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 28 Jun 2012 21:56:10 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Hello, 
I  am interested in the Pico UPS as found in the mp3Car store : http://goo.gl/ns6kB 
 
my intention is to provide uninterrupted power for two...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->Hello,<br />
I  am interested in the Pico UPS as found in the mp3Car store : <a href="http://goo.gl/ns6kB" target="_blank">http://goo.gl/ns6kB</a><br />
<br />
my intention is to provide uninterrupted power for two lilliput screens.<br />
<br />
I want to give them with regulated 12v power from my OPUS 250w PSU as opposed to simply plugging them into the cigarette lighter.(the screens flicker every time i start the car) <br />
There is a slight issue with this scenario : I use one of the monitors for my reverse camera. the PSU takes about 90seconds to turn on from the moment i start the car.<br />
this is often a hassle, having to wait 1.5 mins to reverse the car.<br />
<br />
i want to use the picoUPS to draw power from the cigarette lighter when the PSU isnt providng power.  <br />
<br />
is this a recommended setting?<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.mp3car.com/forumdisplay.php?f=11">Power Supplies</category>
			<dc:creator>trinybwoy</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mp3car.com/showthread.php?t=152315</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Powering a P4</title>
			<link>power-supplies/152298-powering-a-p4.html</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 27 Jun 2012 22:23:10 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>My system I am trying to power.  
 
P4 515  
4 sticks of DDR ram 
1 HDD 
2 fans 
3 USB items 
 
 
I have been looking hard to find a DC-DC PSU that...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->My system I am trying to power. <br />
<br />
P4 515 <br />
4 sticks of DDR ram<br />
1 HDD<br />
2 fans<br />
3 USB items<br />
<br />
<br />
I have been looking hard to find a DC-DC PSU that will power my current system. Using a power usage calculator it shows my min at about 167w and max at about 209w. <br />
<br />
The biggest PSU I can find is the Opus 360w. I'm still not sure it will work.  Is it possible to wire up two PSU's?<br />
<br />
<br />
I would like to stick with this system mainly for cost reasons, but would it be easier/ cheaper to replace it?  <br />
<br />
<br />
---<br />
I am here: <a href="http://tapatalk.com/map.php?dfrfof" target="_blank">http://tapatalk.com/map.php?dfrfof</a><br />
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.mp3car.com/forumdisplay.php?f=11">Power Supplies</category>
			<dc:creator>Jesse Hopper</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mp3car.com/showthread.php?t=152298</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>M2-atx randomly hard power off</title>
			<link>power-supplies/152231-m2-atx-randomly-hard-power-off.html</link>
			<pubDate>Mon, 25 Jun 2012 06:08:23 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Lately my carpc has been doing weird things I think are power supply related.I have a voompc 2 case using an intel dg45fc mobo running win xp. The...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->Lately my carpc has been doing weird things I think are power supply related.I have a voompc 2 case using an intel dg45fc mobo running win xp. The car boots no problem but sometimes it will randomly shut off while driving or even with the engine off and key on acc.Then it will turn back on and reboot and just after win boots it will shut right off again.Very frustrating,so far I have ran 8ga power and ground wires directly to the pc,ran external power button and reset button,a relay triggered by the key acc wire.<br />
<br />
Im worried this might do damage to the mobo or the hdd.I built this pc over 4yrs ago when the m2 atx was still just fairly new to market.Has then been any revisions from the first model that may be more stable and mine is just old and worn?With all accessories on and the car running..car has no a/c but with heater fans,2 amplifiers,headlight/foglights etc on Im still above 13v at idle with a 150amp alternator,4ga wire directly to the battery.2ga wire ground points on the motor and battery and 2ga power wire to main fuse panel.Voltage nor amperage shouldnt be a problem in my situation.<br />
<br />
Need idea or im going to be spending money doing trial/error trying to find a remedy.All connections are soldered and heat shrinked with no visible signs or wear or breaks yet.<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.mp3car.com/forumdisplay.php?f=11">Power Supplies</category>
			<dc:creator>87Transam383</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mp3car.com/showthread.php?t=152231</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Power to the trunk</title>
			<link>power-supplies/152210-power-to-the-trunk.html</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 24 Jun 2012 13:05:26 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>I am adding a fuse block under the hood  and one in the trunk. 
 
Image: http://img.tapatalk.com/a693488f-0ef1-7ffe.jpg  
 
This marine grade fuse...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->I am adding a fuse block under the hood  and one in the trunk.<br />
<br />
<img src="http://img.tapatalk.com/a693488f-0ef1-7ffe.jpg" border="0" alt="" /><br />
<br />
This marine grade fuse block has a positive and negative circuit.<br />
<br />
My plan is to run a battery pos and neg cable to the fuse block under the hood. This will give me 6 circuits to add accessories up front.<br />
<br />
The second fuse block will be placed in the trunk and power the carpc PSU, a powered sub, and future audio accessories.<br />
<br />
I plan on running both a positive and negative line to this fuse block from the battery.<br />
<br />
What is your opinion about the ground wire running to the battery vs to the chassis?<br />
<br />
What if I ran both a ground to the battery and a ground to the chassis near the fuse block?<br />
<br />
I want to eliminate the noise and ensure the ground is as good as it can get.<br />
<br />
Let me hear from you.<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.mp3car.com/forumdisplay.php?f=11">Power Supplies</category>
			<dc:creator>cazzz</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mp3car.com/showthread.php?t=152210</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Can i just connect direct 12V power to these PSU units?</title>
			<link>power-supplies/152024-can-i-just-connect-direct-12v-power-to-these-psu-units.html</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 19 Jun 2012 23:09:46 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>The motherboards are VIA VT133 EVEM chipset based boards. They all have 512mb of RAM, and 512mb CF cards with XPe and 800mhz processors. The units...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->The motherboards are VIA VT133 EVEM chipset based boards. They all have 512mb of RAM, and 512mb CF cards with XPe and 800mhz processors. The units have power supplies in them. The model number is MaxSpeed Corp. PCA0019-20. Now from what i can tell, these use a AC-DC power brick. That means the PSU must be DC-DC. <br />
<br />
Here is my question:<br />
<br />
Can I simply connect 12V source and the PSU steps down the amps that it needs, or will I have to have some type of regulation in place to give it only the required amps it needs? How should i go about installing these in my car? I have 6 of them. Currently the PC system is on its own battery in the rear. It is charged by the HO alternator, but only when the car is on. What else would I add to get these six units safely installed. <br />
<br />
Pictures are below. <br />
<br />
<img src="http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/attachments/worklogs/66659d1340146246-2003-durango-slt-project-hijackzx1-finally-focused-remix-img_20120619_184112.jpg" border="0" alt="" /><br />
<img src="http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/attachments/worklogs/66660d1340146246-2003-durango-slt-project-hijackzx1-finally-focused-remix-img_20120619_184027.jpg" border="0" alt="" /><!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.mp3car.com/forumdisplay.php?f=11">Power Supplies</category>
			<dc:creator>HiJackZX1</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mp3car.com/showthread.php?t=152024</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Intel D945GCLF2 standby mode</title>
			<link>power-supplies/152022-intel-d945gclf2-standby-mode.html</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 19 Jun 2012 22:29:40 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Hi, 
I configured my M2-ATX power supply to keep permanently the +5V power in order to use the standby mode on Intel D945GCLF2 motherboard. I'm using...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->Hi,<br />
I configured my M2-ATX power supply to keep permanently the +5V power in order to use the standby mode on Intel D945GCLF2 motherboard. I'm using every day my car so I don't have an issue with the battery.<br />
My concern is that the USB ports are powered permanently and I didn't find a way to disable the usb while the system is going in standby. All my usb peripherals are powered permanently.<br />
<br />
What options do I have. Is there a way to disable the usb port?<br />
I the past I used hibernate mode but I don't like the boot time period.<br />
<br />
Thanks,<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.mp3car.com/forumdisplay.php?f=11">Power Supplies</category>
			<dc:creator>grigs</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mp3car.com/showthread.php?t=152022</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Anyone using a DSATX with a 4-pin ATX power connection?</title>
			<link>power-supplies/151243-anyone-using-a-dsatx-with-a-4-pin-atx-power-connection.html</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 10 Jun 2012 05:39:24 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I've used the M2-ATX successfully until the system became too big and overloaded it. The jumper settings worked great and I had what I wanted. 
...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->I've used the M2-ATX successfully until the system became too big and overloaded it. The jumper settings worked great and I had what I wanted.<br />
<br />
Then came the M4-ATX which simply does not do what it says on the box. Yes, you can change settings but they don't work. <br />
<br />
My board is powered by the 4-pin ATX and needs the larger connector to have two pins connected or it will not power up. With that hard wired connection the M4 does not think the board is ever asleep. When I tell it to not retry shutdowns it uses the retry timer value as the hard off value. Support is ok until they realize you are flogging a dead horse. Then you get no response at all.<br />
<br />
So what of the DSATX? Is anyone using it with a board that uses only the 4-pin ATX connection? Do you need to hard wire the 20-pin connector? Does it shutdown at the right time? Will it power up again before the hard off (M4 does not). Will it hard off at the right time?<br />
<br />
I'm looking for a 5 second power off, 10-20 minute hard off.<br />
If power on before hard off, it just comes back on on (like the M2).<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.mp3car.com/forumdisplay.php?f=11">Power Supplies</category>
			<dc:creator>Petrie</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mp3car.com/showthread.php?t=151243</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>M2 ATX AWG questions</title>
			<link>power-supplies/151226-m2-atx-awg-questions.html</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 08 Jun 2012 08:16:45 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Hi, this is my first post, however I have been following, and reading posts on this amazing site for the past 2 years, just picking up information...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->Hi, this is my first post, however I have been following, and reading posts on this amazing site for the past 2 years, just picking up information and researching for my car pc project. The depth and detail of the information here is incredible, and has made my transition a lot easier from knowing nothing about car pc's (but knowing I really want one!) to getting close to installing a system in the car!<br />
<br />
My question is about the M2 ATX PSU which will power the following components that I bought; a Voom 2 enclosure, with the Asus At5iont-i motherboard, 64 GB SSD (for OS, apps, etc.), 1 TB external esata HD (media), 4 GB Ram, slim optiarc Sony DVD RW (it will also power a 10&quot; display, not sure which yet...open to suggestions...!). I also bought the quick release power kit from the store, for the M2 ATX. <br />
<br />
I want to connect directly from the battery an 8 AWG cable, fused at the battery, going to the trunk, I then want to solder it to the 16 AWG wires on the quick release kit, going into the enclosure to the PSU. I'm sorry if I'm asking an obvious and dumb question, I'm very nervous as it's my first install, I don't want to end up with the car in flames...! Is it ok to connect the 8 AWG cable to the 16 AWG cable on that end, and do I need to add an inline fuse at the other end near the 16 AWG, some threads have mentioned fusing when stepping down a size. Is there anything I'm forgetting or missing with that setup? I also would do a similar connection for the ground. <br />
<br />
Also what type of inline fuse would you suggest would work best for this type of wiring setup? Opinions seem to differ greatly all over the net and on these forums, I'm much more concerned about safety and doing it well, than cost. <br />
<br />
Thanks for any help you guys can offer me!<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

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			<category domain="http://www.mp3car.com/forumdisplay.php?f=11">Power Supplies</category>
			<dc:creator>carpcromania</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mp3car.com/showthread.php?t=151226</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Power Supply Suggestions?????</title>
			<link>power-supplies/151224-power-supply-suggestions.html</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 08 Jun 2012 01:42:21 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I'm using this (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16856119017) for my carputer (because I have it and the specs seem suitable). Any...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->I'm using <a href="http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16856119017" target="_blank">this</a> for my carputer (because I have it and the specs seem suitable). Any suggestions on which power supply to use and how to wire it? The power supply that comes with it is rated at 19V, 3.42A, 65W but I don't want to use an inverter. Suggestions from the experts would be greatly appreciated as I was never a big fan of &quot;trial and error&quot;. Thanks!<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.mp3car.com/forumdisplay.php?f=11">Power Supplies</category>
			<dc:creator>kjm8888</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mp3car.com/showthread.php?t=151224</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>New Mac Mini Power Supply</title>
			<link>power-supplies/151197-new-mac-mini-power-supply.html</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 03 Jun 2012 02:59:45 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>I found a kit to remove the internal power supply on the 2010/2011 Mac Mini that will allow use if a Dc-Dc supply for a carpc. 
...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->I found a kit to remove the internal power supply on the 2010/2011 Mac Mini that will allow use if a Dc-Dc supply for a carpc.<br />
<br />
<a href="Http://www.ebay.com/itm/330712020198" target="_blank">Http://www.ebay.com/itm/330712020198</a><!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.mp3car.com/forumdisplay.php?f=11">Power Supplies</category>
			<dc:creator>cazzz</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mp3car.com/showthread.php?t=151197</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Thinking of switching from DSATX to m3-ATX, any thoughts?</title>
			<link>power-supplies/151146-thinking-of-switching-from-dsatx-to-m3-atx-any-thoughts.html</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 23 May 2012 20:03:29 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[long story short, i am utterly fed up with my TWO dsatx psu's  
they were VERY reliable for the last 3years. having issues here and there, but VERY...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->long story short, i am utterly fed up with my TWO dsatx psu's <br />
they were VERY reliable for the last 3years. having issues here and there, but VERY stable, i loved them .<br />
<br />
but for the last couple of weeks, they have been failing me miserably. and i no longer want to spent days and my entire weeeknds trying to figure out what is wrong. <br />
summer is comming and i have road trips every weekend till september. i am in dire need of a RELIABLE psu for my trips.<br />
<br />
I need to know if the M3 atx will be reliable for my setup<br />
<br />
motherboard: asrock e350M1 with 2gb of ddr3 ram :<a href="http://goo.gl/G5Frg" target="_blank">http://goo.gl/G5Frg</a><br />
HDD 1 :30gb SSD<br />
HDD 2 : 500gb 5400 RPM <br />
and 8 usb devices.<br />
1.Joycon controller<br />
2. bluetooth for connecting phone<br />
3. BT for logitech dinovo mini k<br />
4. BU-353 gps <br />
5. wireless dongle for boxee keboard<br />
6. usb for touch screen 1<br />
7. usb for touch screen 2<br />
8. usb for thumb drive access<br />
<br />
i also need to supply 5v to a hdmi to vga convert box i have : <a href="http://goo.gl/VU78C" target="_blank">http://goo.gl/VU78C</a><br />
<br />
i am VERY tight on space, thats y i was looking at the m3. and i simply need something reliable.<br />
<br />
I have tried using the online psu calculators, but none of them seem the have my motherboard listed<br />
without the motherboard to the list, is says i need around 140 watts of power :-/<br />
<br />
can any shed any light on their experience with the M3 atx or suggest one, besides the dsatx?<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.mp3car.com/forumdisplay.php?f=11">Power Supplies</category>
			<dc:creator>trinybwoy</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mp3car.com/showthread.php?t=151146</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>SATA power from DCDC converter</title>
			<link>power-supplies/151061-sata-power-from-dcdc-converter.html</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 10 May 2012 02:03:19 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I've been searching far and wide throughout the various forums for the answer to this. I'm not familiar with DCDC converters or how you guys run your...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->I've been searching far and wide throughout the various forums for the answer to this. I'm not familiar with DCDC converters or how you guys run your hard drives and optical drives. Most SSDs currently on the market use SATA power connections. I'm planning an intel Z68 based board and an i3 processor. I'm planning to use a 60 GB SSD I have laying around for the main boot drive. I'm also planning on running one of those newish Seagate Momentus laptop SSD hybrid drives for storing media and probably a slim blu-ray player by sony (I've been reading bad things about these though). All use SATA power cables. How do I go about getting power to these drives? Because of my expected power requirements, I had my eye on the OPUS 360w PSU. <br />
<br />
Does the OPUS 360w DCDC converter have any method to power SATA drives? The main ATX connection will obviously go to the mobo. After that, I'm stuck. Do I need 2 PSUs? One for the motherboard and one for the SATA drives? I see it comes with a 4 pin to IDE power plug chain. Is the only solution to buy an IDE to SATA adapter? Is there some other DCDC converter that would suite me better?<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.mp3car.com/forumdisplay.php?f=11">Power Supplies</category>
			<dc:creator>ceri</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mp3car.com/showthread.php?t=151061</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Problem with Scan Gaguge II</title>
			<link>power-supplies/151040-problem-with-scan-gaguge-ii.html</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 06 May 2012 23:31:52 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Good afternoon, 
I am new here to this forum. I have a problem with my Scan Gauge II  in my motor home. My RV is a 2004 E450 Chassis, with a V-10...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start --><font color="#0000CD"><span style="font-family: Comic Sans MS"><font size="2">Good afternoon,<br />
I am new here to this forum. I have a problem with my Scan Gauge II  in my motor home. My RV is a 2004 E450 Chassis, with a V-10 Engine.  My Scan Gauge II was working perfectly. We stopped and had lunch. I started the RV not only was it no longer working but also the GPS and the XM Radio receiver were no longer working. banghead I unplugged the GPS and XM Receiver from the cigarette lighter. Plugged both into the 12v Auxiliary plug they both work now; but the Scan  Gauge II does not work is the OBD tied into the cigarette lighter plug? :noidea: Thanks for any thing you folks can bring up. Also I heard that there was a software upgrade for my scan Gauge II is that true?:doh:</font></span></font><!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.mp3car.com/forumdisplay.php?f=11">Power Supplies</category>
			<dc:creator>w6pea</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mp3car.com/showthread.php?t=151040</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[DCDC-USB "Shutdown" command over USB.]]></title>
			<link>power-supplies/151014-dcdc-usb-shutdown-command-over-usb.html</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 02 May 2012 20:14:27 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Greetings. 
 
I've searched the forum for the answer, and have yet to find what I am specifically looking for. 
Maybe I missed it, so please forgive...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->Greetings.<br />
<br />
I've searched the forum for the answer, and have yet to find what I am specifically looking for.<br />
Maybe I missed it, so please forgive me.<br />
<br />
I ordered the DCDC-USB power supply to power my Zotac MAG HD-ND01 system for the car.<br />
<br />
I've read through all of the manuals for the PSU, but they don't answer the question...<br />
<br />
The Zotac powers on and boots as soon as power is applied. Something I am fine with.<br />
<br />
But, I don't know if the DCDC-USB will allow a clean shutdown or &quot;hibernate&quot; once the key is turned off on the car by sending a command to the PC via USB that it is time to shut down.<br />
<br />
The Zotac does not offer an internal header for the PSW lead, and hard-soldering connections is not in my future for this unit.<br />
<br />
Ideas?<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.mp3car.com/forumdisplay.php?f=11">Power Supplies</category>
			<dc:creator>Synthesis</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mp3car.com/showthread.php?t=151014</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Power supply placement in car</title>
			<link>power-supplies/151003-power-supply-placement-in-car.html</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 01 May 2012 01:39:25 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Where are you guys placing power supplies in your Car PC setups? 
 
Since Opus hasn't yet mastered the art of small enclosures for their power...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->Where are you guys placing power supplies in your Car PC setups?<br />
<br />
Since Opus hasn't yet mastered the art of small enclosures for their power supplies, I am stuck with this behemoth to try and wedge in somewhere.<br />
<br />
My first thought was to use some industrial double-stick tape to mount it to the top of the SRS control box under the radio, but I'm not terribly comfortable with that idea.  There is space below the radio and the bracket that secures the radio to the dash does have some space where I could drill a hole to secure the power supply.  The PSU would only be secured to the bracket on one side, but I could use some industrial double sided tape between the PSU and the bottom of the radio for added support.<br />
<br />
The only concern I have with this is that the PSU would needed to be mounted upside-down.  Probably not an issue but I am worried about vibration with the PSU's PCB mounted upside-down with large components hanging off of it.<br />
<br />
<br />
Click thumbnail for bigger version:<br />
<br />
<a href="http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p61/sebberry/CarPC/Behindradio1.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p61/sebberry/CarPC/th_Behindradio1.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><br />
<br />
<a href="http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p61/sebberry/CarPC/Behindradio2.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p61/sebberry/CarPC/th_Behindradio2.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><br />
<br />
I sometimes think the engineers don't bother to consider where the devices will be mounted or how little space there is in cars now.<br />
<br />
<br />
Any thoughts are appreciated.<br />
Thanks.<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.mp3car.com/forumdisplay.php?f=11">Power Supplies</category>
			<dc:creator>sebberry</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mp3car.com/showthread.php?t=151003</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Power Inverter - how to survive crank? - Pyle PINV3</title>
			<link>power-supplies/150962-power-inverter-how-to-survive-crank-pyle-pinv3.html</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 24 Apr 2012 03:47:23 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I bought a Pyle PINV3 power inverter, but I found that cranking the car will make the unit go to "auto shutdown". 
 
So far I have only tested with...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->I bought a Pyle PINV3 power inverter, but I found that cranking the car will make the unit go to &quot;auto shutdown&quot;.<br />
<br />
So far I have only tested with cigarette plug and no load, so I guess I go no options...<br />
<br />
This is the units documentation:<br />
<br />
SYMPTOMS PROTECTION<br />
The input reverse polarity<br />
              The fuse blown.<br />
<br />
The low voltage battery (below DC 10V) <br />
              The unit auto shutdown.<br />
              The alarm sounds.<br />
              The RED LED lights.<br />
<br />
The high input voltage (over DC 15.6V)<br />
The overload<br />
The overheat<br />
              The unit auto shutdown.<br />
              The RED LED lights.<br />
<br />
<br />
Any ideas? What to try?  thx<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.mp3car.com/forumdisplay.php?f=11">Power Supplies</category>
			<dc:creator>hyperplus</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mp3car.com/showthread.php?t=150962</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Solar battery charging</title>
			<link>power-supplies/150924-solar-battery-charging.html</link>
			<pubDate>Mon, 16 Apr 2012 20:27:55 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>This is a continuation of this thread (http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/power-supplies/150885-battery-drain-3.html#post1473138) in effort not to...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->This is a continuation of <a href="!m150885!http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/power-supplies/150885-battery-drain-3.html#post1473138" target="_blank">this thread</a> in effort not to hijack the thread further.<br />
<br />
<br />
Background: <br />
<br />
I have an &quot;always on&quot; system that (depending on hw) consumes 2-10W).  This system is powered by a kinetic hc-800 AWG wet cell battery.  I've also got a 30W solar panel connected to <a href="http://www.solar-electric.com/sg-4.html" target="_blank">this charge controller.</a><br />
<br />
I've measured the solar panel current at up to 800mA, but I notice the voltage readings hang out at below 12.6.  Hooking the 10W system up, I drop the voltage to 12.3V (from 12.6V).<br />
<br />
I've logged the data for 4.5hrs at the link below:<br />
<br />
<a href="https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0AlG_0jiTRW8mdF9DYnJrRGp3THlJS3hKd1lvdTRQV2c" target="_blank">https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/...3hKd1lvdTRQV2c</a><br />
<br />
Chart2 shows the battery voltage over time.  As you can see, I don't ever drop below 12V and I seem to bounce around between 12.2V quite a bit.  I poll for voltage from the dcdc-usb power supply every 30 seconds.  I'm driving around as the voltage goes &gt; 13V.<br />
<br />
Chart1 shows solar panel charge current.  I'm missing quite a bit of data however because the logging stopped at some point (you can see from the time stamps in Sheet 1).<br />
<br />
Question:<br />
<br />
Why am I not going above 12.6?<br />
Can I still link my 2 batteries when the solar panels are producing n mA?<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.mp3car.com/forumdisplay.php?f=11">Power Supplies</category>
			<dc:creator>tripzero</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mp3car.com/showthread.php?t=150924</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Battery drain</title>
			<link>power-supplies/150885-battery-drain.html</link>
			<pubDate>Mon, 09 Apr 2012 23:04:17 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I've been noticing that my car has been "reluctant" to start often since my install.  I did some testing and find the following: 
 
Battery is a...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->I've been noticing that my car has been &quot;reluctant&quot; to start often since my install.  I did some testing and find the following:<br />
<br />
Battery is a panasonic 46b24l(s) rated at &quot;45ah&quot;<br />
<br />
Stock = 40ma<br />
Arduino circuit = 24ma<br />
OBDSX = 9ma<br />
<br />
I'm seeing right around 73ma with everything hooked up and the car off.  The stock drain is higher for a few minutes after you close the door for timers and dome lights and stuff but settles to 40ma with all of my stuff disconnected.<br />
<br />
So it seems like I have about doubled my consumption (kinda stinks about the OBD... any thoughts there?)  I have to keep the arduino powered as it must be initially powered via usb or else it cannot communicate with the computer.<br />
<br />
According to a calculator I found online, stock should last bout 33 days before dead stock and 16 with my mods.  Of course that is DEAD... ability to crank is lost long before those figures.<br />
<br />
So I guess my questions are, should that obd really pull so much? is there any easy solution that people know of? and does it seem normal to have a weak crank after 12 hours of being off.<br />
<br />
It has only failed to start once and that was about 5 minutes after I sat with the engine off and the system on for about 10 minutes.<br />
<br />
Oh and before people suggest second batteries, I'm not going that route... it is an MX-5... I barely have room for my lunch.<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.mp3car.com/forumdisplay.php?f=11">Power Supplies</category>
			<dc:creator>dmcdlrn</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mp3car.com/showthread.php?t=150885</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>DC-DC USB Info</title>
			<link>power-supplies/150846-dc-dc-usb-info.html</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 03 Apr 2012 04:23:10 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Instead of searching for the ignition wire, is it ok to use the cigarette lighter power as the start switch for the power supply?</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->Instead of searching for the ignition wire, is it ok to use the cigarette lighter power as the start switch for the power supply?<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.mp3car.com/forumdisplay.php?f=11">Power Supplies</category>
			<dc:creator>Champak</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mp3car.com/showthread.php?t=150846</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Double check me on my psu noise theory before i dive in anyone?</title>
			<link>power-supplies/150813-double-check-me-on-my-psu-noise-theory-before-i-dive-in-anyone.html</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 31 Mar 2012 08:49:52 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Just got it all installed, magnificient, but I've fallen culprite to a very loud, overpowering, ever present static (ie this is no small alternator...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->Just got it all installed, magnificient, but I've fallen culprite to a very loud, overpowering, ever present static (ie this is no small alternator whine)<br />
<br />
Here is my troubleshooting and think pattern.<br />
1.  Checked for induction, held rca to 3.5 cable from my pc to the equalizer up in the air no where near any electrical wires.... FAIL<br />
2.  Used the same 3.5 line from my CELL to my equalizer.  CRYSTAL CLEAR... FAIL<br />
3.  Removed my pc from car, used AC to DC PSU in house, CRYSTAL CLEAR... FAIL<br />
<br />
I can't believe in my research i didn't see more about this issue.  My sole two conclusions are<br />
1.  potential ground loop (seeing as my two amps are both grounded to chasis and my M4ATX is grounded to negative terminal), ground psu to chassis<br />
2.  M4ATX just sucks maybe, In my reearch i read of someone who buying an opus fixed the problem... worrisome...<br />
<br />
I'm quite the car audio buff, but new to the cpc scene, but i have NEVER heard interferance this bad, lol.  But it seems like to me that I must be an easy fix, because if everyone had static as bad as this NO ONE would be using this PSU.  Please pass on some thoughts, the only thread i can find on this specific issue was posted by someone who doesn't speak english and its just too hard for me to follow...<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.mp3car.com/forumdisplay.php?f=11">Power Supplies</category>
			<dc:creator>bossman137</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mp3car.com/showthread.php?t=150813</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Need help choosing a power supply</title>
			<link>power-supplies/150758-need-help-choosing-a-power-supply.html</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 23 Mar 2012 22:03:47 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Trying to build my first car computer and have a question about the power supply to use for an Intel DN2800MT. 
 
Which one do I use?</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->Trying to build my first car computer and have a question about the power supply to use for an Intel DN2800MT.<br />
<br />
Which one do I use?<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.mp3car.com/forumdisplay.php?f=11">Power Supplies</category>
			<dc:creator>rschoenstein</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mp3car.com/showthread.php?t=150758</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>M4 sounds REALLY hit or miss....</title>
			<link>power-supplies/150696-m4-sounds-really-hit-or-miss.html</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 16 Mar 2012 07:18:22 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[So i read the review on the m4, and then most of the LENGTHY thread started 4 yrs ago.  SO i'm all set with my setup have a 4 core processor with 8gb...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->So i read the review on the m4, and then most of the LENGTHY thread started 4 yrs ago.  SO i'm all set with my setup have a 4 core processor with 8gb ram on an asus mini itx with features up the woo ha.  BUT it'll draw like 225 according to the calculators.  And looks like the m4 is about the only option for me that i can find, and people seem to have SO many problems with it and so much wire splicing seems to need to be done with it.<br />
Is it too much for me to expect for just a reliable but and plus psu with that output?  Or do i just need to man up and buy the m4 and being the troubleshooting lol<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.mp3car.com/forumdisplay.php?f=11">Power Supplies</category>
			<dc:creator>bossman137</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mp3car.com/showthread.php?t=150696</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Help with what inverter I need!??!</title>
			<link>power-supplies/150679-help-with-what-inverter-i-need.html</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 13 Mar 2012 15:53:42 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Hey Guys, 
 
So Im planning my first in car project at the moment, been reading around a lot but need help on powering it all.. 
 
Now for numerous...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->Hey Guys,<br />
<br />
So Im planning my first in car project at the moment, been reading around a lot but need help on powering it all..<br />
<br />
Now for numerous reasons, Im going to have abit of equipment in the car..  Ill be having, 7/8inch liliput hd touchscreen, acer netbook, appletv3, wireless router and a NAS drive.<br />
<br />
Im in IT so all of that I can work out fine and have my reasons for wanting it all..<br />
<br />
But how will I power it??<br />
<br />
After research I assume it will need to be an inverter??<br />
<br />
Any in particular you would recommend for all of this?<br />
<br />
And I've a few silly questions about them aswell..  <br />
<br />
1. Do these have a battery in them?<br />
2. Lots of them only have 1 plug socket.. can I extend that for numerous plugs?<br />
3. How do I wire it up to turn on with the ignition? (Just the inverter, the rest I can figure out)<br />
<br />
Any help will be appreciated please guys, Thanks.<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.mp3car.com/forumdisplay.php?f=11">Power Supplies</category>
			<dc:creator>RichyRoo</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mp3car.com/showthread.php?t=150679</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>I need 110 that work through ignition/cranking.</title>
			<link>power-supplies/150592-i-need-110-that-work-through-ignition-cranking.html</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 04 Mar 2012 20:18:00 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I've been struggling with the proper setup to provide 110v outlets (probably never draw more than 100 - 150 watts). 
I've used inverters before but...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->I've been struggling with the proper setup to provide 110v outlets (probably never draw more than 100 - 150 watts).<br />
I've used inverters before but they shut down when the car battery's voltage drops during cranking.<br />
I'm amicable to either using a lighter outlet or wiring it directly to battery.<br />
I would consider putting a small UPS behind the inverter, but the UPS guys say that's a no-no even with a pure sine wave inverter. Most of the UPS are also pretty big and bulky...I'd like to keep the setup small so I could tuck it all under a front seat.<br />
I've also considered the DC - DC options, but that would limit my flexibility with what could be plugged in.<br />
This installation is going in a 2006 Honda Odyssey...and there's no room under the hood for a spare battery.<br />
<br />
I'm not expecting to ever run the items very long while the car engine is off...I just don't want to have shut things down every time we stop for fuel or the bathroom.<br />
<br />
Thanks for any help you can give me in advance.<br />
<br />
Ken<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.mp3car.com/forumdisplay.php?f=11">Power Supplies</category>
			<dc:creator>Ken Esq</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mp3car.com/showthread.php?t=150592</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>DC-DC regulator - isolation question</title>
			<link>power-supplies/150435-dc-dc-regulator-isolation-question.html</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 10 Feb 2012 13:57:07 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Hi, 
 
I will be runnning a computer (beagleboard XM) + a few microprocessor boards (arduino) with a many sensors (12V, 5V, 3.3V) 
 
I'll need...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->Hi,<br />
<br />
I will be runnning a computer (beagleboard XM) + a few microprocessor boards (arduino) with a many sensors (12V, 5V, 3.3V)<br />
<br />
I'll need several different DC-DC switching supplies to give me steady 12V and 5V outputs, sensors may be driven on 12V, 5V, and even driven directly off the main battery.<br />
<br />
My question is this: how do I ensure they all operate on a common ground? it seems some regulators provide &quot;isolated&quot; outputs. Does that mean they are not common ground? Or only isolated in the sense that input bursts don't filter through?<br />
<br />
If they are isolated, can I combine all the grounds or does that not work?<br />
<br />
I plan on using this for a regulated 12V: <a href="http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10001_10001_155708_-1" target="_blank">http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/sto...0001_155708_-1</a><br />
Jameco (SKE15A-12) Module DC-DC 1 Output 12 Volt 1.25A 15W 5-Pin <br />
<br />
The regulator needs to be step up/down since the equipment will be running with engine on or off.<br />
<br />
Thanks for the help, just starting out...<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.mp3car.com/forumdisplay.php?f=11">Power Supplies</category>
			<dc:creator>stantale</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mp3car.com/showthread.php?t=150435</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>What are my options for power?</title>
			<link>power-supplies/150410-what-are-my-options-for-power.html</link>
			<pubDate>Mon, 06 Feb 2012 22:28:29 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Fairly new to Car pc's and have been reading a lot, but stuck on what way to go with for power.   
 
Right now I have a Double Din, EQ, crossover...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->Fairly new to Car pc's and have been reading a lot, but stuck on what way to go with for power.  <br />
<br />
Right now I have a Double Din, EQ, crossover hooked up to 3 amps 2 subs and 2 sets of 6.5 separates .  The largest amp is 1500 watts for my subs then I have a 4 channel 600 watt for the front set of 6.5 separates then another 400 watt amp for a rear set of 6.5 separates.  The vehicle is a Yukon and I've already upgraded the battery to a yellow top AND have 0 awg from the batter to my distribution block for the amps so my power seems fine, but I do have the occasional light dim when at full power during heavy bass tracks.<br />
<br />
I have read most people use M4 or Opus and keep the load under 250 watts, but I just ready a review on an soundblaster external xfi and the guys has his carputer in the back of the truck connected via a 1000 watt power inverter.  <br />
<br />
Since I already have a huge draw on my current battery should I consider a 2nd batter, upgraded alternator, or both?<br />
<br />
Also what are the advantages of running the pc from a power inverter?  Since the yukon already has power in the back truck via a cigarette lighter connection if I used that it would allow me to connect an inverter and avoid having to redo my center console to mount the pc.<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.mp3car.com/forumdisplay.php?f=11">Power Supplies</category>
			<dc:creator>LGHT</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mp3car.com/showthread.php?t=150410</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Questions on Hybrid Sleep with OPUS 320 and Zotac MB.</title>
			<link>power-supplies/150409-questions-on-hybrid-sleep-with-opus-320-and-zotac-mb.html</link>
			<pubDate>Mon, 06 Feb 2012 22:00:20 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>I was wondering what the requirements are to get hybrid sleep to work. My understanding is that when activate this option (which I did in Win 7)...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->I was wondering what the requirements are to get hybrid sleep to work. My understanding is that when activate this option (which I did in Win 7) everything should come on instantly. It seems that even with that option selected, its hibernating instead. I know it cant be a power issue per say, because the Car PC is a fairly large dedicated battery (Kinetik HC2000). When using hybrid sleep, does it require 12V to be active? I have 55 plus USB devices, all of are mainly powered off of Hubs with a power supply. Now the PC controls these supplies via a relay off the 12v rail. Could it be that because these items go off of independent power, the PC just puts it into hibernation instead when the power is lost to those items?  I mean  hibernation isnt slow (7 seconds), but i would really like instant on. Also, is hybrid sleep motherboard dependent? Maybe I have an option wrong in the BIOS? What would i be looking for?<br />
<br />
Any advice would be helpful, thanx!<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.mp3car.com/forumdisplay.php?f=11">Power Supplies</category>
			<dc:creator>HiJackZX1</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mp3car.com/showthread.php?t=150409</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>m4 or m2 atx power supplys</title>
			<link>power-supplies/150404-m4-or-m2-atx-power-supplys.html</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 05 Feb 2012 22:43:53 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>hi, whats the difference between the m4 and m2 atx power supplys, just putting together my car pc and just wanted to clear this up before i waste...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->hi, whats the difference between the m4 and m2 atx power supplys, just putting together my car pc and just wanted to clear this up before i waste money on the wrong one..<br />
thanks daveo<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.mp3car.com/forumdisplay.php?f=11">Power Supplies</category>
			<dc:creator>daveo1000</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mp3car.com/showthread.php?t=150404</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[12v -> 5v converter]]></title>
			<link>power-supplies/150338-12v-5v-converter.html</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 27 Jan 2012 09:15:35 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Hi 
 
I have a skyline 350gt (aka infinity g35) I'm adding a tablet computer to the dash and have a question regarding supplying power to the tablet....]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->Hi<br />
<br />
I have a skyline 350gt (aka infinity g35) I'm adding a tablet computer to the dash and have a question regarding supplying power to the tablet.<br />
<br />
I'm getting a professional install of an adapter into the factory stereo to allow me to get aux &amp; ipod input via a little box that attaches to the external cd connector behind the stereo.  At the same time I am going to ask them to wire up a 5v USB cord into the cubby hole where i will be placing my android tablet.<br />
<br />
I was thinking of buying this and a usb cable and asking them to wire it directly into the 12v supply of the car, is this appropriate?<br />
<a href="http://www.dealextreme.com/p/1000ma-car-cigarette-powered-usb-adapter-charger-dc-12v-24v-34040" target="_blank"><img src="http://img.dxcdn.com/productimages/sku_34040_1.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><br />
<br />
Would I be better to buy a little PCB board someone with a larger heatsink, would this be more reliable?<br />
eg. <a href="http://www.ebay.com/itm/DC-DC-HRD-Converter-DC-12v-24v-36v-step-down-5v-3A-/200702287111?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&amp;hash=item2ebac9dd07#ht_5832wt_1163" target="_blank"><img src="http://img.auctiva.com/imgdata/1/4/0/7/2/2/7/webimg/501481110_o.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><br />
<br />
How often do these things die?<br />
<br />
Am I better to ask them to just lead the 12 volt wires into the cubby hole, then wire the voltage adapter inside the cubby hole so that if it dies, i don't have to disassemble my entire car to replace it?<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.mp3car.com/forumdisplay.php?f=11">Power Supplies</category>
			<dc:creator>kiwijunglist</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mp3car.com/showthread.php?t=150338</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Wiring the Car - Power to the CarPC / Display - Considerations?</title>
			<link>power-supplies/150324-wiring-the-car-power-to-the-carpc-display-considerations.html</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 25 Jan 2012 15:57:35 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Hi guys, 
 
This is my first Post, however I've been following the forum for some time. 
 
Currently I'm focusing on wiring the car up, to power the...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->Hi guys,<br />
<br />
This is my first Post, however I've been following the forum for some time.<br />
<br />
Currently I'm focusing on wiring the car up, to power the CarPC setup. Would a 40A (480W) Amplifier Wiring Kit (6mm2 gauge) be ample, from the car battery? This live + feed will be routed through the car to the rear/boot, where the CarPC will be installed.<br />
<br />
Are there other considerations I should take into account while adding the power wiring into the car at this point?<br />
Dont want to put this in only to find I've not factored in an additional lead here or there for some other critical component!<br />
<br />
For example, whats going to be the most appropriate way to power the dash mounted (Lilliput) touch screen? Switched live feed from somewhere?<br />
<br />
Look forward to feedback. Great to be onboard. :)<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.mp3car.com/forumdisplay.php?f=11">Power Supplies</category>
			<dc:creator>DanSI</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mp3car.com/showthread.php?t=150324</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Voltage drop causing Mac Mini to turn off</title>
			<link>power-supplies/150297-voltage-drop-causing-mac-mini-to-turn-off.html</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 22 Jan 2012 17:02:32 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Hello everyone, 
 
I am currently 98% finished with my mac mini car computer project but there is one small issue that is impeding my progress.  
I...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->Hello everyone,<br />
<br />
I am currently 98% finished with my mac mini car computer project but there is one small issue that is impeding my progress. <br />
I have the Mac Mini powered by a 115 watt inverter that is directly wired to my battery. The Mac Mini works perfectly when the car is off and when it is on, the issue is in the start up period.<br />
When the car starts the voltage drops from 12v to roughly 10.5 volts. This causes the Mac Mini to turn off. I have exhausted all of my options. I already have a capacitor in line with the Mac Mini and a Yellow Top D35 Deep Cycle Battery. <br />
<br />
If anyone has any other ideas I would much appreciate it. As soon as it is done I would love to take alot of pictures and post it on this site because I know alot of you wanted to put a Mac Mini in your car. <br />
<br />
I have a 2005 Subaru Legacy 2.5 Gt<br />
<br />
Thanks<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.mp3car.com/forumdisplay.php?f=11">Power Supplies</category>
			<dc:creator>halli87</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mp3car.com/showthread.php?t=150297</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>+ feed from battery</title>
			<link>power-supplies/150276-feed-from-battery.html</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 19 Jan 2012 12:40:44 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Hi my first thread, ive installed a pc into my bmw 323i, the opus power supply instructions say connect the battery direct to the PSU which i have...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->Hi my first thread, ive installed a pc into my bmw 323i, the opus power supply instructions say connect the battery direct to the PSU which i have done.<br />
All works fine but ive taken it out do do some bits. Ive had to put a crimp joint in the battery feed and have noticet the plastic sheeth on the wire at the join<br />
has started to melt.<br />
The wire is the correct size is this due to having a join£ should i use one piece of wire.<br />
Many tnx<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.mp3car.com/forumdisplay.php?f=11">Power Supplies</category>
			<dc:creator>fokmister</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mp3car.com/showthread.php?t=150276</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Can I use this power supply in my car?</title>
			<link>power-supplies/150275-can-i-use-this-power-supply-in-my-car.html</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 19 Jan 2012 11:32:26 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Hi, I'm new to this stuff and I have a question. I have a little budget project here so I'm trying to use parts I have laying around :-) 
 
I've got...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->Hi, I'm new to this stuff and I have a question. I have a little budget project here so I'm trying to use parts I have laying around :-)<br />
<br />
I've got a &quot;NEXTerminal&quot; with a DC-DC power supply. The input voltage is said to be 12v, but I do not know how tolerant it is to lower or higher voltages. <br />
<br />
<img src="http://srvimg09.tablica.pl/images_tablicapl/9634739_1_644x461/terminal-sieciowy-nexterminal-szczecin.jpg" border="0" alt="" /><br />
<img src="http://www2.multithread.co.uk/linitx.com/products/Jupiter_1.0Ghz_C7_Thin_Client_-_Fanless_inside_large.jpg" border="0" alt="" /><br />
<br />
I have figured out a way to keep the voltage from dropping to low - I'll connect a small motorcycle battery to my main one with a diode, and run the PSU from the smaller one. that way it will keep the CarPC power from dropping too low during cranking, and the small battery won't be able to power the accessories in my car. However, during normal alternator operation the voltage in my car gets as high as 14.5 volts, can I let my psu run off this without any adverse effects?<br />
<br />
Also, perhaps someone has a good way to convert a signal from an analog push switch to a keyboard command without an expensive emulator?<br />
<br />
Cheers :-)<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.mp3car.com/forumdisplay.php?f=11">Power Supplies</category>
			<dc:creator>G@briel</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mp3car.com/showthread.php?t=150275</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>m2 160w psu</title>
			<link>power-supplies/150131-m2-160w-psu.html</link>
			<pubDate>Mon, 02 Jan 2012 23:06:04 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>hello! just started a car pc project in a volvo s60.  
 
just bought a ASUS E45M1-I DELUXE, AMD E-450 motherboard...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->hello! just started a car pc project in a volvo s60. <br />
<br />
just bought a <a href="http://www.asus.com/Motherboards/AMD_CPU_on_Board/E45M1I_DELUXE#specifications" target="_blank">ASUS E45M1-I DELUXE, AMD E-450 motherboard</a>, and i read in the manuel it recommandes at least 350w psu in full configuration.<br />
i also have bought the m2 atx 160w psu some month ago, can i use this?<br />
<br />
what are the signs if the psu is to weak? lower voltage? startup problems? will be running a 128gb ssd disk.<br />
<br />
i guessing it will hold at startup at such, but i want to know the signs just in case so i can monitor it :)<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.mp3car.com/forumdisplay.php?f=11">Power Supplies</category>
			<dc:creator>Vatnehol</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mp3car.com/showthread.php?t=150131</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Opus 90W troubles (wil not power MoBo)</title>
			<link>power-supplies/149993-opus-90w-troubles-wil-not-power-mobo.html</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 14 Dec 2011 20:40:05 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>I seem to have a problem with my set up.  I had the Opus 90W powering a car PC and it all worked fine,  the car got sold so I took out all the car PC...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->I seem to have a problem with my set up.  I had the Opus 90W powering a car PC and it all worked fine,  the car got sold so I took out all the car PC parts, as a consequence the car PC and the Opus 90W where on the shelf for a couple months. <br />
<br />
I built a workbench to test the car PC set up before installing it in a new car, I am using a normal 450 W nominal ATX power supply,  the 12V output from one of the molex connectors of the ATX power supply is  wired to the &quot;Battery&quot; pin of he Opus, and also to the &quot;Ignition&quot; pin of the opus 90w (however I added a switch to this wire in order to simulate the car on/off state).  I also wired the ground/black wire of the same molex connector from the ATX power supply to the &quot;Ground&quot; pin of the Opus 90W.  So Basically when I jump start the ATX Power supply, the opus LED begins to blink normally as if the power supply was in Idle or stand-by state (Led flashes for 0.1 sec and then is off for a few seconds, then flashes again, etc.).  The moment I flip the switch on the Ignition pin in order to simulate that the car is turned on, after about a second I can see that the power LED of the PC Flashes for a second, as if the PC was powering up, however it all of a sudden turns off and the PC never fully boots, the LED on the OPUS also goes to a total OFF state, it never flashes at all and remains off.  Its as if the Opus begins to power the PC for a second and then totally turns off, and the LED light of the OPUS 90W stops flashing completely.<br />
<br />
Once I disconnect power to the Opus 90W and reconnect it, the LED begins to flash normally again as if it was in idle/stand-by state, however I can't seem to get the opus to power and boot my car PC.  I would appreciate your help and input in order to get this solved.  Any ideas on what may be going on? I thank you in advance for your help.<br />
<br />
Thanks,<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.mp3car.com/forumdisplay.php?f=11">Power Supplies</category>
			<dc:creator>cdevelasco</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mp3car.com/showthread.php?t=149993</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Would this be okay to power my netbook?</title>
			<link>power-supplies/149988-would-this-be-okay-to-power-my-netbook.html</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 14 Dec 2011 06:26:54 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Hello, 
 
I'm looking to use my netbook to power my carputer, would this be okay? 
...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->Hello,<br />
<br />
I'm looking to use my netbook to power my carputer, would this be okay?<br />
<br />
<a href="http://smartparts.co.uk/catalog/car_dc_adapters/product/Acer/eMachine/300+Series/350/pc-ac9c/" target="_blank">http://smartparts.co.uk/catalog/car_...s/350/pc-ac9c/</a><br />
<br />
Thanks,<br />
<br />
Jack.<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.mp3car.com/forumdisplay.php?f=11">Power Supplies</category>
			<dc:creator>TheBestJack</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mp3car.com/showthread.php?t=149988</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>D945GSEJT no green standby light</title>
			<link>power-supplies/149969-d945gsejt-no-green-standby-light.html</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 11 Dec 2011 17:07:06 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Hey Guys, 
 
I have an Intel D945GSEJT which has been working fine, I've been to use it today and nothing happened, so checked the power and...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->Hey Guys,<br />
<br />
I have an Intel D945GSEJT which has been working fine, I've been to use it today and nothing happened, so checked the power and connections, all fine - the 4 pin feed on to the board shows the correct 12v however the board doesnt show its green light - which has always been on before...<br />
<br />
Are there any checks I can do or do I just assume the board is now dead?<br />
<br />
Any thoughts?<br />
<br />
Thanks<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.mp3car.com/forumdisplay.php?f=11">Power Supplies</category>
			<dc:creator>wmguk</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mp3car.com/showthread.php?t=149969</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Help a noob pick a power supply.</title>
			<link>power-supplies/149936-help-a-noob-pick-a-power-supply.html</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 07 Dec 2011 20:34:28 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Title says it. I will be building my first carputer and as far as power supplies go I am quite lost at the moment. Any input would be appreciated. 
...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->Title says it. I will be building my first carputer and as far as power supplies go I am quite lost at the moment. Any input would be appreciated.<br />
<br />
I would like a power supply which can start the computer with a reference from the ignition status. I would also like to be able to bypass the ignition reference feature with the flip of a switch for ECU tuning purposes, is this possible?<br />
<br />
I will be running a mini itx board with a 1.6GHz dual core AMD E-350 cpu , 8 GB of ram, a 2.5 form 60GB solid state drive, an internal pcie sound card and I will be using onboard video for a dual screen setup.<br />
<br />
Here's some of my parts:<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128468" target="_blank">http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16813128468</a><br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16829102024&amp;cm_sp=MyNewegg-_-Recmd-_-Pst01Descrip" target="_blank">http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc..._-Pst01Descrip</a><br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820139075" target="_blank">http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820139075</a><br />
<br />
How much power would I likely be needing? Any suggestions on a particular power supply? Again any input is appreciated.<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

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			<category domain="http://www.mp3car.com/forumdisplay.php?f=11">Power Supplies</category>
			<dc:creator>RedVertTA</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mp3car.com/showthread.php?t=149936</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>m3-atx not resuming when the car is on</title>
			<link>power-supplies/149909-m3-atx-not-resuming-when-the-car-is-on.html</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 03 Dec 2011 00:10:54 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>my m3atx does not automatically turn my computer on when i turn the ignition on. It goes into sleep mode if i power off the car but it doesnt come...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->my m3atx does not automatically turn my computer on when i turn the ignition on. It goes into sleep mode if i power off the car but it doesnt come back on after the hardoff. right now i have it in p0 mode. where delay off is 5sec and hardoff is 8hours. any help will be appreciated. thanks<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.mp3car.com/forumdisplay.php?f=11">Power Supplies</category>
			<dc:creator>kevincat</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mp3car.com/showthread.php?t=149909</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Apple TV 2 Power</title>
			<link>power-supplies/149902-apple-tv-2-power.html</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 02 Dec 2011 01:02:26 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Im super new to this. I want to install an ATV2 in my Excursion and feed the video to my OEM screen. The ATV2 has an internal power supply that takes...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->Im super new to this. I want to install an ATV2 in my Excursion and feed the video to my OEM screen. The ATV2 has an internal power supply that takes 110 AC to 3.4 DC at 1.75 amps. I want to remove that and run just DC to it.<br />
<br />
I am having a hell of a time finding a converter to take my 12v to 3.4. I did find on ebay a 12v to 3.3 volt 3amp 15 watt converter. They are all from china. Are they any good? Is there a domestic supplier of such things? <br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.current-logic.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&amp;cPath=4&amp;products_id=206" target="_blank">http://www.current-logic.com/shop/in...roducts_id=206</a><br />
<br />
Any help or direction appreciated...<br />
<br />
AJ<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

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			<category domain="http://www.mp3car.com/forumdisplay.php?f=11">Power Supplies</category>
			<dc:creator>ajohansson</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mp3car.com/showthread.php?t=149902</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>how to get win7 to hibernate if it is in sleep mode for an amt of time</title>
			<link>power-supplies/149888-how-to-get-win7-to-hibernate-if-it-is-in-sleep-mode-for-an-amt-of-time.html</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 30 Nov 2011 19:58:45 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>is it possible to get win7 to go into hibernation mode if it is in sleep mode for more than 2 hrs?</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->is it possible to get win7 to go into hibernation mode if it is in sleep mode for more than 2 hrs?<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.mp3car.com/forumdisplay.php?f=11">Power Supplies</category>
			<dc:creator>kevincat</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mp3car.com/showthread.php?t=149888</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>CNX-P2140 and regular Power supply for bench testing</title>
			<link>power-supplies/149883-cnx-p2140-and-regular-power-supply-for-bench-testing.html</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 30 Nov 2011 16:17:48 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>i am getting ready to start on my carputer today and need to figure out a way to bench test it before installing. 
 
I have a ton of regular home...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->i am getting ready to start on my carputer today and need to figure out a way to bench test it before installing.<br />
<br />
I have a ton of regular home power supplies laying around that I yanked out of dead computers over the years, can I hack one of these up and hook it to the P2140 instead of having to drag in a car battery?<br />
<br />
If so, What wires go where?<br />
<br />
Thanks!<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.mp3car.com/forumdisplay.php?f=11">Power Supplies</category>
			<dc:creator>tech180</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mp3car.com/showthread.php?t=149883</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>OPus 90W 3 pin input harness/connector</title>
			<link>power-supplies/149849-opus-90w-3-pin-input-harness-connector.html</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 27 Nov 2011 06:00:43 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Hello, 
 
I have and OPUS 90 W and I am in need of an extra 3 pin input harness/connector (please refer to attached picture) 
 
Does anyone know what...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->Hello,<br />
<br />
I have and OPUS 90 W and I am in need of an extra 3 pin input harness/connector (please refer to attached picture)<br />
<br />
Does anyone know what this connector type is called? or where can I buy one online?<br />
<br />
I've searched the forums, but to no avail.  Thanks in advance!<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>


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			<category domain="http://www.mp3car.com/forumdisplay.php?f=11">Power Supplies</category>
			<dc:creator>cdevelasco</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mp3car.com/showthread.php?t=149849</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>uSDC or Micro-Shut-Down-Controller help!</title>
			<link>power-supplies/149841-usdc-or-micro-shut-down-controller-help.html</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 26 Nov 2011 14:35:15 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I've been basically killing myself on how to automate my PC which uses an inverter. I opened another thread a long time ago, and yesterday realized I...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->I've been basically killing myself on how to automate my PC which uses an inverter. I opened another thread a long time ago, and yesterday realized I couldnt never achieve what I wanted to do all alone. So I went ahead and bought the uSDC or Micro-Shut-Down-Controller from MoCoSo. <br />
<br />
<img src="http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/attachments/power-supplies/64232d1322317983-usdc-or-micro-shut-down-controller-help-mcs-atx-usdc-2.jpg" border="0" alt="Name:  MCS-ATX-USDC-2.jpg
Views: 352
Size:  79.3 KB"  /><br />
<br />
My issue is that I do not understand the schematics on setup at all. It seems like the PSU is in the picture, but there is no reference to what happens to the Inverter. Shouldnt the controller be controlling that? Can someone please explain this to me? Many thanks!<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>


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				<img class="attach" src="http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/attachments/power-supplies/64232d1322317983-usdc-or-micro-shut-down-controller-help-mcs-atx-usdc-2.jpg" alt="" />&nbsp;
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			<category domain="http://www.mp3car.com/forumdisplay.php?f=11">Power Supplies</category>
			<dc:creator>HiJackZX1</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mp3car.com/showthread.php?t=149841</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>M@-ATX issue</title>
			<link>power-supplies/149794-m-atx-issue.html</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 22 Nov 2011 00:35:37 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>when I turn off the truck all of the sudden the pc turns off (takes a little longer than it used to), then it will turn right back on even with...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->when I turn off the truck all of the sudden the pc turns off (takes a little longer than it used to), then it will turn right back on even with ignition off and key out of ignition.  Nothing has changed with the setup.  setup is about 3 yrs old.  This just started on its own.  Is the ps bad?<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.mp3car.com/forumdisplay.php?f=11">Power Supplies</category>
			<dc:creator>diggla</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mp3car.com/showthread.php?t=149794</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>What power supply do i need for this?</title>
			<link>power-supplies/149780-what-power-supply-do-i-need-for-this.html</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 20 Nov 2011 03:19:22 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Im doing a fresh engine swap on my mustang and that means it time for a tuner, which in turn means car pc. 
 
So after hrs of searching and reading...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->Im doing a fresh engine swap on my mustang and that means it time for a tuner, which in turn means car pc.<br />
<br />
So after hrs of searching and reading i've decided on the Foxconn NTA350-0H0W-B-A-NA AMD Hudson D1. Its really just a mini-pc which should be more then enough for my needs. The issue im having now is how to power the damn thing when its in the car. It has a single dc input plug on that back and it includes a ac-dc power brick which is fine for home or bench use.<br />
<br />
I looked at all the power supplies on mp3car store and couldnt really find anything that i though would work. <br />
<br />
I dont need anything to crazy either, the monitor will be usb powered and the computer will never be doing anything to demanding. Just basic music, navi, wifi, and thats about it.<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.mp3car.com/forumdisplay.php?f=11">Power Supplies</category>
			<dc:creator>schmetty87</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mp3car.com/showthread.php?t=149780</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>DCDC-USB and power wiring.</title>
			<link>power-supplies/149776-dcdc-usb-and-power-wiring.html</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 19 Nov 2011 17:12:29 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[With it being one of the cheapest PSU's available to me, and because I need regulated 12V output into a jack, i'm looking at the dcdc-usb PSU. 
...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->With it being one of the cheapest PSU's available to me, and because I need regulated 12V output into a jack, i'm looking at the dcdc-usb PSU.<br />
<br />
Looking up the wiring, it appears to have 2 Vouts and 2GND's, so I could potentially run my monitor off this supply aswell. Add in an amplifier wiring kit for £10 off eBay (from a UK seller, 5m 4awg cable, 0.9m 4awg cable, in-line fuse holder (60A) and mounting screws/connectors), and my psu will come out at about £66 (£72 if I go for the psu enclosure). My pc is rated at 12V 4A so I imagine 60A would give plenty of juice and expandibility.<br />
<br />
4 awg from the battery (fused in the engine bay) to my DCDC-USB in the boot, grounded to the chassis in the boot. I'm guessing the IGN wire won't have any current draw off it (?), so would a single core cable in similar diameter to one of the internal wires of a UK 13A mains flex suffice for that? (1.25mm2). The cable to the pc would be fairly short, no more than half a meter, so would use some old ATX PSU wire and a barrel jack, but from the PSU to the monitor (most likely a Lilliput LCD) i'm unsure as to what cable I would need to use for that to run the length of my car.<br />
<br />
I'd also want to run an amp as i'd be replacing the head unit. I have one - its labelled as a 1000w amp, but output is 350w rms.... 83.3A if you use the first figure, 29.2A if you use the second - i'd only be running 2 (stock) speakers off it! Confused much!<br />
<br />
Does this all sound good so far?<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.mp3car.com/forumdisplay.php?f=11">Power Supplies</category>
			<dc:creator>sparx</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mp3car.com/showthread.php?t=149776</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>M3-ATX possible CPU possibilities?</title>
			<link>power-supplies/149770-m3-atx-possible-cpu-possibilities.html</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 18 Nov 2011 22:11:03 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Hey guys, 
 
I'm trying to get my CarPC as fast as I can with the possibilities of my M3-ATX. Originally I had the i3-2100T in mind, but now I would...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->Hey guys,<br />
<br />
I'm trying to get my CarPC as fast as I can with the possibilities of my M3-ATX. Originally I had the i3-2100T in mind, but now I would like to install 2 webcams which have to record in 720p. For one of them, the 2100T would be enough and I guess the M3-ATX would deal no problem with its power consumption. But since I want 2 now, I guess I need a faster CPU to not get slowed down to a crawl when both streams are being encoded all the time. I had the i5-2500T in mind. But there are no reviews showing how much power it consumes, only the TDP number, which is 10W higher than the one of the 2100T.<br />
<br />
So, do you guys think an M3-ATX will be able to power a complete CarPC (minus optical drive and screen) with an i5-2500T?<br />
<br />
TIA!<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

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			<category domain="http://www.mp3car.com/forumdisplay.php?f=11">Power Supplies</category>
			<dc:creator>Gullimonster</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mp3car.com/showthread.php?t=149770</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Reccomended Standby Battery</title>
			<link>power-supplies/149736-reccomended-standby-battery.html</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 15 Nov 2011 22:28:43 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Currently i use a sealed lead acid battery from a UPS. 
 
I am killing these batteries because i believe they are undercharged and overworked. 
 
I...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->Currently i use a sealed lead acid battery from a UPS.<br />
<br />
I am killing these batteries because i believe they are undercharged and overworked.<br />
<br />
I am looking for the best most rugged type of Deep Cycle battery that i can get that will withstand being deeply discharged and recover well.<br />
<br />
Currently with my driving habits i only get long periods (about an hour) of charging twice a week so it should be able to withstand a 250 ma standby draw inbetween these times and be able to recover fairly fast.<br />
<br />
Am i asking too much of a battery?<br />
<br />
I am hoping one of the heavyweights have something brilliant to add to my battery problem<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.mp3car.com/forumdisplay.php?f=11">Power Supplies</category>
			<dc:creator>antimatter</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mp3car.com/showthread.php?t=149736</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>M2 wont start in car (works on bench!)</title>
			<link>power-supplies/149711-m2-wont-start-in-car-works-on-bench.html</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 10 Nov 2011 22:27:59 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Pretty much the title sums up my problem. If I start the M2 on the bench then it is fine but as soon as it goes in the car it wont start :( 
 
To...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->Pretty much the title sums up my problem. If I start the M2 on the bench then it is fine but as soon as it goes in the car it wont start :(<br />
<br />
To take things a little futher (I suspected the IGN was the issue) I used an inverter to power a 12v supply in the car &amp; used the existing IGN wire with no problems!<br />
<br />
The 12v for the M2 comes directly from the battery &amp; has a good earth but won't start my M2!<br />
<br />
Has anyone any ideas?<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

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			<category domain="http://www.mp3car.com/forumdisplay.php?f=11">Power Supplies</category>
			<dc:creator>myscus</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mp3car.com/showthread.php?t=149711</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Where to buy this connector</title>
			<link>power-supplies/149694-where-to-buy-this-connector.html</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 08 Nov 2011 10:34:57 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Hi, 
 
Im trying to find power connector/cable for my eBox4300 pc. I would like to put it in car as carputer. Also, cause ebox is driven by 5v max...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->Hi,<br />
<br />
Im trying to find power connector/cable for my eBox4300 pc. I would like to put it in car as carputer. Also, cause ebox is driven by 5v max 15W i would need power switch supply 12v to 5v. So if you have any suggestions for that also...<br />
<br />
<img src="http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/attachments/power-supplies/64044d1320748482-where-to-buy-this-connector-din_connector.png" border="0" alt="Name:  din_connector.png
Views: 178
Size:  33.2 KB"  /><!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>


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			<category domain="http://www.mp3car.com/forumdisplay.php?f=11">Power Supplies</category>
			<dc:creator>gossamer</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mp3car.com/showthread.php?t=149694</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Got the wrong parts, need help figuring out what to do from here.</title>
			<link>power-supplies/149607-got-the-wrong-parts-need-help-figuring-out-what-to-do-from-here.html</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 29 Oct 2011 19:46:59 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>First off I will post the specs of everything I have that needs power for operation: 
 
M350 Universal Mini-ITX enclosure ...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->First off I will post the specs of everything I have that needs power for operation:<br />
<br />
<a href="http://store.mp3car.com/M350_Universal_Mini_ITX_enclosure_by_Mini_Box_Blac_p/enc-031.htm" target="_blank">M350 Universal Mini-ITX enclosure </a><br />
<a href="http://www.sapphiretech.com/presentation/product/?leg=&amp;psn=000102&amp;pid=1034&amp;lid=1" target="_blank">PURE Fusion Mini E350 (IPC-E350M1)</a><br />
  4 GB DDR3 ram (left over from laptop upgrade)<br />
  100 GB Toshiba HDD (from an old laptop)<br />
  <a href="http://www.alfa.com.tw/in/front/bin/ptdetail.phtml?Part=AWUS036H&amp;Category=105479" target="_blank">Alfa Networks AWUS036H</a> (usb wifi)<br />
<a href="http://store.mp3car.com/Lilliput_629GL_70NP_C_T_7_VGA_Touchscreen_w_Aut_p/mon-016-0002.htm" target="_blank">Lilliput 629GL-70NP/C/T 7&quot; VGA Touchscreen w/ Auto Back-up Camera Switch</a><br />
<br />
I realize that I really do not need much power at all, but I am trying to accommodate for future add on components for the whole car PC setup.<br />
<br />
I had originally purchased the <a href="https://store.mp3car.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=PWR-029" target="_blank">M3-ATX 125 Watt - Smart Automotive Power Supply</a> but when I got the main board I realized it has a 24 pin connector and a 4 pin connector.  As per the documentation for the board the 4 pin is for &quot;CPU power&quot;, so I do not think this is optional.  I have managed to power the board and get it to post with a 20 pin and 4 pin ATX power supply, but as my dvd drive is currently not working I can not install an OS.<br />
<br />
Since I noticed I have to have the 4 pin I requested an RMA for the M3-ATX and ordered the <a href="https://store.mp3car.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=PWR-026" target="_blank">CarNetix CNX-P2140 185W Dual Output Intelligent DC-DC Regulator</a> and the <a href="http://store.mp3car.com/Mini_Box_picoPSU_150_XT_High_power_24_pin_mini_IT_p/pwr-043.htm" target="_blank">Mini-Box picoPSU-150-XT</a> to supply power to my new main board.  I should be good right?  Well when I got the part it was not what I thought I had ordered and instead I now have the <a href="https://store.mp3car.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=PWR-037" target="_blank">Mini-Box picoPSU-120</a>, and this is the same pinout as the M3-ATX (minus the SATA power)and no need to make a 4 pin harness for 12v input and a molex to 4 pin harness to connect to the main board.  Either way I need the molex to 4 pin to connect to the main board.<br />
<br />
I will be using the CarNetix P2140, for no other reason than I have already put it in place and want to use it.<br />
<br />
My dilemma is that I do not know if I should attempt to use the M3-ATX and send back the picoPSU-120 or send them both back and try again for the one I thought I ordered in the first place.<br />
<br />
Some questions about trying to use the M3-ATX that I have for everyone:<br />
<br />
Could I connect the M3-ATX ignition to the same place I have the connection for the P2140?<br />
Could I connect the M3-ATX ignition to the DYLON &quot;remote trigger&quot; along with the amp?<br />
Could I use the M3-ATX in standard ATX mode?<br />
    - Doing this would negate the need for it being a &quot;smart automotive ATX power supply&quot; (The reason I ordered the picoPSU)<br />
<br />
Should I use the picoPSU and just use SATA adapters and a 4 pin molex adapter?<br />
    - My tests do show that the board will run with this pin (20+4) configuration using a desktop ATX power supply. <br />
<br />
Should I scrap it all and put the factory system back in place?<br />
<br />
Unfortunately I have to make this decision very soon as we are supposed to take a 5+ hour trip soon.  Being without any form of entertainment would be an object lesson in torture for the whole family.  I have to either use what I now have or postpone the entire project for a few months.  Even waiting for a new part with next day air delivery (too pricey at this point) would be cutting things a bit too close for comfort.  <br />
<br />
Any ideas, feed back, questions are welcome and thank you in advance for any help you give.<br />
<br />
Thank you.<br />
<br />
PS.  This is not meant as a detractor to mp3car.com or its service.  Accidents happen, and they are rarely when you want them to.  I am merely looking for advice on how to proceed given my current situation.<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.mp3car.com/forumdisplay.php?f=11">Power Supplies</category>
			<dc:creator>jjfam1</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mp3car.com/showthread.php?t=149607</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>m1 atx hookup</title>
			<link>power-supplies/149606-m1-atx-hookup.html</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 29 Oct 2011 16:34:21 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>hey guys new to the site and dont know all that much about computers. i just bought a car pc off ebay already built i just need to swap the power...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->hey guys new to the site and dont know all that much about computers. i just bought a car pc off ebay already built i just need to swap the power supplys. i have the m1 atx 90 watt PS and an epia-sp motherboard (i guess thats the name) i tryed hookin it up but the new wires dont line up. wondering if anyone could help or point me in the right direction<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.mp3car.com/forumdisplay.php?f=11">Power Supplies</category>
			<dc:creator>bignickk</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mp3car.com/showthread.php?t=149606</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>m3 atx serial driver problem</title>
			<link>power-supplies/149598-m3-atx-serial-driver-problem.html</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 29 Oct 2011 00:18:16 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>i got a m3atx that im trying change the timing with. i purchase the serial cable and plug it in and everything. but when i open the software, i get...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->i got a m3atx that im trying change the timing with. i purchase the serial cable and plug it in and everything. but when i open the software, i get device not found.  i try everthing including clearing out my comports. minibox.com did not respond to my email, so im asking you guys for help. any kind of help would be appreciated. thank you.<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.mp3car.com/forumdisplay.php?f=11">Power Supplies</category>
			<dc:creator>kevincat</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mp3car.com/showthread.php?t=149598</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>what power supply is most using?</title>
			<link>power-supplies/149567-what-power-supply-is-most-using.html</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 25 Oct 2011 23:26:44 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>sry for such a generic question but what is a good power supply that most are using. read soo many things about all of the power supplies listed and...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->sry for such a generic question but what is a good power supply that most are using. read soo many things about all of the power supplies listed and don't know which one to choose.  i need 250w suggested by my motherboard manufacturer.  but i don't think im using that much. <br />
its a msi motherboard, using a lcd screen with lvds and led backlight, laptop hard drive and laptop disk drive. cpu fan, video chipset fan, and one case fan. <br />
Ill need to be able to turn on an amp, and be able to start up the computer with the ignition switch or with my keyless remote using the trunk pop button and wiring from the remote control unit. ill figure that out later date. but will also be able to shut down the pc when the ignition switch is turned off. nothing too complicated. just sort of dont understand what im reading when i read about all these power supplies.  then the pros and cons associated with them. <br />
just need some insight on a descent power supply that does the job and wont quit on me.<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.mp3car.com/forumdisplay.php?f=11">Power Supplies</category>
			<dc:creator>slociviccoupe</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mp3car.com/showthread.php?t=149567</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Powering a Mac Mini with a car battery and a CNX p1900 Regulator</title>
			<link>power-supplies/149566-powering-a-mac-mini-with-a-car-battery-and-a-cnx-p1900-regulator.html</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 25 Oct 2011 21:41:14 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Hello all, 
 
I am about to purchase a 2nd generation Mac Mini with the DVD slot and mount it inside my glove box as my car computer. I was wondering...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->Hello all,<br />
<br />
I am about to purchase a 2nd generation Mac Mini with the DVD slot and mount it inside my glove box as my car computer. I was wondering the best way to hook up the mini to the regulator. I saw a cord by Carnetix that could directly mount to the Mac mini but its for the 1st generation mac minis and nothing newer. I would really not like to take apart the mini and would rather splice up the cords if that is the best end result. Please let me know if there is a new cord out there or the best new solution to this problem...<br />
<br />
This is the Regulator<br />
<a href="http://carnetix.com/CNXP1900.htm" target="_blank">http://carnetix.com/CNXP1900.htm</a><br />
This is the cable <br />
<a href="http://carnetix.com/optional_cables.htm" target="_blank">http://carnetix.com/optional_cables.htm</a><br />
<br />
Thanks,<br />
Mike<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.mp3car.com/forumdisplay.php?f=11">Power Supplies</category>
			<dc:creator>halli87</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mp3car.com/showthread.php?t=149566</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>When reverse is engaged, front lights turn on???</title>
			<link>power-supplies/149539-when-reverse-is-engaged-front-lights-turn-on.html</link>
			<pubDate>Mon, 24 Oct 2011 00:45:39 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Hi everyone, 
 
I just recently decided to take on the task of putting a screen and car computer into my 2005 Subaru Legacy. When installing the...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->Hi everyone,<br />
<br />
I just recently decided to take on the task of putting a screen and car computer into my 2005 Subaru Legacy. When installing the backup camera an odd thing happened. I got the camera all powered and wired up and it was showing beautifully on my screen, but the reverse lights no longer worked... the brake lights and the turn signals were still working also. I checked the fuse and it looked great, the bulbs on both sides were fine. I does not make sense to me because we didn't tamper with the power supply to these lights... The only modification we did was power the camera from one of the accessory fuses below the steering wheel.<br />
<br />
To top it all off later that night I went out to turn my car on and the front lights didn't work. To my amazement when I put it in reverse the Front lights turned on and still no rear view lights. I now have no idea what has happened and would love some help with this problem.<br />
<br />
Thanks guys<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.mp3car.com/forumdisplay.php?f=11">Power Supplies</category>
			<dc:creator>halli87</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mp3car.com/showthread.php?t=149539</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>How to power it?</title>
			<link>power-supplies/149537-how-to-power-it.html</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 23 Oct 2011 19:52:14 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Hello,  
 
As you may have seen in some of my other post that I have bought a Volvo S40, and the options are non-existant apart from a 3.5mm jack in...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->Hello, <br />
<br />
As you may have seen in some of my other post that I have bought a Volvo S40, and the options are non-existant apart from a 3.5mm jack in the center console. So I have seen and bought a Bluetooth adapter to a 3.5mm jack, so I could play and control music from my mobile. However the item is ment to be used in the home and is powered by a wall adapter, and needs 5V/100mah. So my question is 1) how I can power it? 2) if I can pickup a feed from the cigarette lighter in the center console? 3) if it will need a separate fused feed from the battery?<br />
<br />
Thanks<br />
Guy<br />
<br />
<img src="http://i.ebayimg.com/00/$(KGrHqR,!lwE4moduizvBOUiz3oikg~~48_12.JPG" border="0" alt="" /><!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.mp3car.com/forumdisplay.php?f=11">Power Supplies</category>
			<dc:creator>GKRAMER</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mp3car.com/showthread.php?t=149537</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>m3atx is not turning computer on when ignition is on</title>
			<link>power-supplies/149436-m3atx-is-not-turning-computer-on-when-ignition-is-on.html</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 13 Oct 2011 20:21:41 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>so my im building a new carputer and purchase the m3atx. i have the jumpers set on 5sec off 1 min hardoff. whenever i turn the car off, it would put...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->so my im building a new carputer and purchase the m3atx. i have the jumpers set on 5sec off 1 min hardoff. whenever i turn the car off, it would put the computer to sleep. but whenever i turn the car back on, it only get power for 2-3 seconds then shuts off. i have to manually press the power button on the carputer itself to get it to turn on. <br />
<br />
so my question is, is this normal or do i have to do some other things to make it work properly?<br />
also i want to set it as 5 second off then 8 hours hardoff, do i have to buy the serial cable to program it?<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.mp3car.com/forumdisplay.php?f=11">Power Supplies</category>
			<dc:creator>kevincat</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.mp3car.com/showthread.php?t=149436</guid>
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