Well crap. Ill try to salvage this while I can, by adding mat and more resin. If I cant stand on it, Ill scrap it, but heres hopin. And, Ive already restarted once, if anything, Ill restart again! Thanks for the tips.
something still doesn't look right on this. There should be a few layers of resin and mat mixed. (Coat of resin, then mat, resin, mat, resin, allow to dry, resin, mat, resin, mat, resin, allow to dry.) The mat should be cut or ripped into strips or squares to be applied. (This helps the mat conform to curves better) also, after two to four layers of mat, the back piece can be removed for more mat to be applied. once the back piece is thick and strong enough (to approximately hold your weight) you can put it back in, mark your cuts, and cut the naked edges. Then place the sub ring, and stretch fleece or a polyester based fabric over the front to connect to the back, (mat is okay, but fleece is easier to stretch, and as long as it's polyester based it will form a chemical bond with the resin.) Then after the resin dries on the fleece layer, add more mat, until the same thickness as the back piece. Cut the hole for the sub, sand, etc. and finish your box with carpet or whatever.
Here's another good walkthrough to give you a few more tips:
You may have to scrap what you've got so far, and start over. You may be able to salvage the back piece. But I'd hate to have you go all the way to finish on this box if it won't be structurally sound.
I kinda wish I had access to a Matrix/Vibe, then I'd just build you one, and ship it on over. (It's better to learn and gain the experience though.)
If you need any more tips, please let me know. Thanks.
Latest issues. I cant open the spare tire with the edge stickin out so far. Good thing I have my handy saw. So I cut some away. Ill Use Mat to cover it back up and fiberglass it so I can open the bottom hatch. I wont loose any inside space from the change, and Ill just apply more coats there to match the rest.
So, heres my attempt at salvaging it, Its pretty sturdy, hardly bends and I think Ive only got 3 or 4 coats on the front and exactly 3 on the back. SO I figure if I toss on some matt, and another 2 or 3 coats, it MAY just be strong enough to start doing more. But, heres what it looks like. Please hold your laughing till I have to sand, then, Laugh away! :P
Well, Done with the Right one.
How its attatched to the car...
How I sealed the washer, that is liquid tape. Good stuff!
Comments? Took a while to build, AND depending on the next one, if it goes better than this one, Ill rebuild this. This was my very first attempt at a box...well, second, you cant count that crappy one I did first!
overall it looks nice, the carpeting on the underside of the sub isn't the best, but good for a first try.
The important part:
How does it sound?
Your right, the carpeting on the underside is horrible, BUT, your right about the second thing, It sounds great! Im still tweaking the amp, I didnt realize that my new HU increases volume as I accelerate. So, if I have the HU at max capability of the amp/subs at a stop, and I go to 45, then I damn near blow everything at 55. So, still some work to be done.
you can always tear up the carpet and re-do it later, of course after the second side is done.
what amp are you using? most recent rockford punch amps have a remote bass knob that has a +/- 3dB adjusment. If you have one, set it at 0 mph all the way up and the amp to the levels you want. Then, before driving anywhere, turn it down to the lowest level. This way at speed the bass is right where you want it to be, and if you are cruising at 25 mph, you can use the remote bass knob if you want more bump.
Using a Van Gogh BGA 800.5 Im still learning how to tweak the db levels on it, so its a hit and miss between the amp and my HU controls on making the sub work. I know, I mix and matched the speakers/HU/AMP/Sub. But its what I could afford at the time!
Brand mixing is ok, there's nothing that says you can't do that.
If you don't have a remote bass knob, then read the following:
what most amps' user manuals will tell you, it turn off the subs, turn the regular speakers up to where they start to distort and go back one or two volume clicks, then turn the sub all the way up till it starts to distort and go one or two clicks back. This way, even if you turn it all the way up, nothing is distorting, you won't normally be listening to it at this volume.
So set the extremes and turn it down, that way when the car raises the volume, it's still withing tolerable ranges.