Thread: Help With rear seat install, lots of pictures

Originally Posted by kazzxtrismus

FG is the only way to do it cheap and quick.
it will still have a MDF box inside it.
but the FG will make it blend...etc
dish it over the side panels and you will lose the 6x9 holes...but put em back into the new box.

kinda sucky not having the room.

this idea is under the assumtion you want to keep the OE spot for your T's.

i was thinking of fiberglassing up to the edge about 1 inch from the weatherstriping where the side panels kind of bend. But i might just go all the way to the edge. I'm also thinking that i'll keep the subs and amps mounted the same and keep everything on the same plane (not mold up to amps)

Loosing room is a fair trade for what the car is lol

The far rear speakers are 4 inchers, but i have absolutly no rear fill And yes I want to keep my OEM spot for my t-tops, that way i can still access the carputers

If this is only for aesthetics just modify your old box. Take the carpet off, mask up, take your molds on each side (bonding it to the mdf at the same time), trim to where you want it, fleece over, glass and re-carpet. It will give that snug fit look and is a good fg job for a first timer.

Yea i was thinking along those lines Biggy, but i might end up doing a whole rear seat install (idea on last page of my worklog)

Right now i'm looking to make the box look like this and have 2 subs in it.


then i will make a false floor for my amps. (black outline is where cuts/seams will be)


It'll hinge open like this ( still working on a hinging setup)


And the amps will set underneath ( most likely 3). I want to have the "floor" that they are mounted on then motor up a few inches to reveal the entire amps.


Sorry about the photoshops, best i could do. What do you guys think?

That sub box is 100% mdf i think, it shouldnt be to hard to make if your good with woodworking. That box is very shallow and is probably the reason why theres only one sub. Two subs will require a larger capacity enclosure to get any real noticeable difference. There could be a ported solution too.

The floor shouldn't be to hard either, cut up the existing board add some hinges and stops, a floor for the amps, maybe a opening handle and then recarpet.

i can get a little over 3^ft of airspace. (plenty for 2 x's or r's) I'll have to go look at my measurements i took a long time ago. I want everything motorized so no handles I'm having trouble visualizing how i would finish off the false floor where it meets the front seats.

Bottom view

I want to make it open like this and use a linear actuator to pull the lines on the end down or maybe something else. any idea?