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Thread: 8.4" Screen WRX

  1. #1
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    8.4" Screen WRX

    I need to get an 8.4" screen into a WRX.

    I have an 03, but I have the center console from an 05 b/c I wanted to have 2 cup holders still.

    Here is a pic of the screen


    Here is the opening I have to work with


    The red lines show what I am thinking of doing.

    Is there a good way to do this with sheet metal?

    I want a shelf hooked to the radio brackets for the screen to sit on, then two arms to push the top forward. The factory bezel should snap on and hold it in place. I would like it something like that b/c I have nothing to attach to on the screen, and I would like to be able to change the screen later with another 8.4" display if I want to. This one is transflective, but the res is quite low. (640*480).

  2. #2
    Sheepdog rdholtz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sxott View Post
    The red lines show what I am thinking of doing. Is there a good way to do this with sheet metal?

    I want a shelf hooked to the radio brackets for the screen to sit on, then two arms to push the top forward. The factory bezel should snap on and hold it in place. I would like it something like that b/c I have nothing to attach to on the screen, and I would like to be able to change the screen later with another 8.4" display if I want to. This one is transflective, but the res is quite low. (640*480).
    Seems to me you could do this in sheet metal. Check my worklog, posts 35-47, for a screen mount I made in sheet metal. There's more on sheet metal work in subsequent posts. I'm not sure exactly what you have in mind, but I'd be happy to help you develop some ideas.
    .
    If just enough is really good, then too much ought to be perfect.

    2006 Scion xB with in-dash Atom & Lilliput 889GL -- Worklog at http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/work...res-links.html
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    Hey thanks, I am reading your log now.

    edit:
    Well I finished reading if I have questions would you like them in your thread, here or pm?

    The first is what are the basic tools I need to get this going.

    All I have at the moment are some shears, saber saw, riveter, drill, and lots of basic hand tools.

    Obviously it looks like a need a sheet metal brake? bender? fabrication kit? something, but I am not sure exactly what I should get. A hint on that would be appreciated. Luckily I will obviously be able to use it in the future for other stuff as well.

    I saw in your thread you had this tool
    http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=41311

    What does the one below do? How does it compare?
    http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=34104

  4. #4
    Sheepdog rdholtz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sxott View Post
    All I have at the moment are some shears, saber saw, riveter, drill, and lots of basic hand tools.

    Obviously it looks like a need a sheet metal brake? bender? fabrication kit? something, but I am not sure exactly what I should get. A hint on that would be appreciated. Luckily I will obviously be able to use it in the future for other stuff as well.

    I saw in your thread you had this tool
    http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=41311

    What does the one below do? How does it compare?
    http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=34104
    You'll want a brake, I suspect. I've been frustrated at times with the limits of mine, but it still does most of what I need. I'm thinking of fabricating my own bending device for more complex stuff.

    A good vise is a pretty good bender for smaller bends like tabs. The brake is really only necessary for long bends.

    The second device you showed there is pretty good, I guess, but I haven't used one. For most of what you plan to do, it's probably overkill. It rolls the flanges in, and so it's pretty hard to get them perfectly straight. Harbor Freight's simple little 18" brake would do probably be better for this project and, at $30, be a lot less expensive. I only bought the 30" one because I got a deal on it in a garage sale.

    You may want to get a small drill press (or get a larger one, used). It makes things so much easier than trying to use a hand-aimed drill. There are devices that you can add to your drill that sort of make it into a drill press, but I think it's worthwhile to just spring the extra $30 or so and get a real drill press, even if it's small. Harbor Freight and Northern Tool are good sources.

    Your shears and saber saw will be fine for cutting the parts.

    I set most of my tools up on tables with wheels, because my garage doubles as my shop. When I'm done working, it all rolls against the walls and the car gets its house back.

    Anything else I can help with?
    .
    If just enough is really good, then too much ought to be perfect.

    2006 Scion xB with in-dash Atom & Lilliput 889GL -- Worklog at http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/work...res-links.html
    .

  5. #5
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    One other easy question, do you just buy the metal at Lowe's, HD etc? Or is it more of a specialty item. I don't know how thick (gauge) I need for it to have enough strength to work as I have it outlined. I am thinking of lots of way to reinforce it, but the less of that necessary the better obviously.

    Hey here is a good link for this.
    Gauge Thicknesses

  6. #6
    Sheepdog rdholtz's Avatar
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    Most of the material I use is scrap from other things. The latest project comes from a steel stud base channel. I also used the back panel of a retired washing machine; that material was as good as new. I've also gone to my local computer store and gotten old computer cases; some of them are really heavy stuff.

    You can get light galvanized sheet steel in the climate control (HVAC) section of Home Depot, and uncoated sheet metal of various gauges in the bins next to aluminum and steel bar and angle stock.

    Flanges are easy reinforcement. You can use surprisingly light stock -- 22-gauge and 24-gauge -- and get significant strength from flanges. Try the lighter stuff (say, 26- or 28-gauge) for prototyping, and, when you get to the design you want, make the final piece in heavier material.

    When it comes to gauges, I use 16-gauge as my mental reference: I remember that 16-gauge is just about 1/16" thick. That's heavier than my bender will handle, and heavier than anything I'm likely to need. And anything thicker than that is practically steel plate.
    .
    If just enough is really good, then too much ought to be perfect.

    2006 Scion xB with in-dash Atom & Lilliput 889GL -- Worklog at http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/work...res-links.html
    .

  7. #7
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    Well I got some 26ga steel from Lowe's. I will start with that and see how it goes.

    One more question how did you make the nice slots for the bolts to go thru? I want to make the design so I can slide stuff forward and back quite easily to get the screen in just the right position. I could do it with a drill by drilling many holes, then dremeling them, or I could dill end holes and use saber saw, but I wondered if there was a better way.

    I will be a bit slow on actually getting it together as I have lots of other things to do and just got a hawthorn thorn shoved into my right forearm while biking (about an inch long now I can barely use my right hand).

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    Just a thought

    Sounds like you enjoy doing some of the hardware building yourself. I am lazy and like the finished product.

    If you get to a point that you are stuck, check this guy out.

    http://www.mechatroniks.com/wrx/

    He did a custom 1 off job for my FJ Cruiser and it is great!

    Enjoy.


  9. #9
    Sheepdog rdholtz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sxott View Post
    Well I got some 26ga steel from Lowe's. I will start with that and see how it goes.

    One more question how did you make the nice slots for the bolts to go thru? I want to make the design so I can slide stuff forward and back quite easily to get the screen in just the right position. I could do it with a drill by drilling many holes, then dremeling them, or I could dill end holes and use saber saw, but I wondered if there was a better way.

    I will be a bit slow on actually getting it together as I have lots of other things to do and just got a hawthorn thorn shoved into my right forearm while biking (about an inch long now I can barely use my right hand).
    Slots are great, but a tough job. I just drill the ends and use the rotary (Dremel-type) cutoff blade, then finish with a file. It takes a lot of care to keep from Dremeling cuts I don't want. I'm considering getting a milling attachment for my small drill press.

    If you make the slots cross -- vertical slots on one part and horizontal ones on the other, you get tremendous flexibility in positioning, including tilting. See post #137 in my thread for an example.

    Sounds like you clipped a nerve with that haw thorn. It's tough when you're just passing by, minding your own business, and an aggressive plant jumps out and attacks you. I used to have a "Jerusalem Thorn" tree that came with my house, and it had some hellacious spikes on it. It hung a little over the driveway and would attack while I was trying to get into my car. If I trimmed it and didn't get every last bit picked up, the thorns would lay in the soil until I was gardening, and then they'd attack me. It had to go. Cutting that damn tree down was one of the best things I ever did for my peace of mind and peace of body.

    Watch that wound. Sometimes the thorns leave a bit of themselves at the deepest part of the puncture, and it takes a long time for the body to expel it. I hope you got away with a clean stab . . .
    .
    If just enough is really good, then too much ought to be perfect.

    2006 Scion xB with in-dash Atom & Lilliput 889GL -- Worklog at http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/work...res-links.html
    .

  10. #10
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    rdholtz thanks. I think the dremel will not be too bad. I built my case by tearing one apart and shortening it with saber+dremel so I think it will be ok.

    The tree is in a park so I think they would be upset if I cut it down . My neighbor is an emergency room nurse and took the thorn out for me, but you are right the top might be in there still unless it was already broken off the tree by another unfortunate soul (it did not come out with the thorn).



    Quote Originally Posted by techgeek3 View Post
    Sounds like you enjoy doing some of the hardware building yourself. I am lazy and like the finished product.

    If you get to a point that you are stuck, check this guy out.

    http://www.mechatroniks.com/wrx/

    He did a custom 1 off job for my FJ Cruiser and it is great!

    Enjoy.

    Yeah I already have his kit for 7". I did not realize he sold just the chassis though. That might actually be worth it to me to get that so I have a solid base to hook to. I was thinking of using my current one, but did not want to butcher what was working perfectly for now for a new project. So anyway thanks for mentioning him.

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