My DIY double DIN frame for eby701. Questions. First time fab.

**nobb** · 12-05-2008, 06:28 PM

I have decided to upgrade my single din install to a double din and Ill probably get started on it after next week. Anyways, I would just like to share my proposal for how I want to mod my lilliput eby701 and build my own double din frame to slide into my dash. Keep in mind I've never really done any fabrication work, so I am a newbie at this.

As shown in the first pic, I have a universal double din kit which I am using an old metal single din frame as structural support. Right now it is just roughly pinned in place.

>>Question 1<<
What would be the best adhesive to bond the metal frame with the abs plastic of the double din kit? Ive got Gorilla Glue, cyanoacrylate super glue, and of course 5 minute epoxy.

Next, I want to mount the lilliput bezel behind the plastic dash trim. However, as seen in picture 2, it wont work out perfectly. The double din trim is actually too short, so I will be extending it vertically. I am proposing to make cuts as indicated by the red lines. Once the trim piece is cut, bondo will be used in the middle to cover it up. The lilliput bezel is going to be the structural support for the front face, and the plastic trim piece will just be for aesthetics to cover up the front.

>>Question 2<<
What would be the best way to make straight cuts into the lilliput bezel? I have a dremel which Ive never used before...would it be ok to just use a cutter attachment on the dremel? The straight cut is essential because the top of the plastic trim piece is too thin to hide big imperfections if I screw up the cut.

The circuit board will be mounted parallel to the TFT panel. I will probably have to do some trimming to the back plastic casing which houses the circuit board, but Im pretty sure it will fit. I will also need to improvise a way to attach the plastic casing to the metal frame for structural stability. I also have an old abs plastic license plate cover which I can cut up and dissolve in acetone to bond the plastic pieces together. Or should I just stick to epoxy?

So yea, if you guys have any opinions, comments, suggestions I would love to hear it.

**treetop777** · 12-05-2008, 07:12 PM

What a project, good luck.

For staight lines i found it best to use a hack saw; the wide blade kinda keep it going staight. What i would do is cut oversize ("leave the line")then lay a sheet of rough sand paper on a flat surface then run the (bezel) cut back and forth against the sand paper. By the time you sand it down to the line you really want, it should be pretty darn staight.

**nobb** · 12-11-2008, 04:53 PM

Well since no one answered the question on what glue to use for metal to plastic bonding, I went ahead and just gorilla glued the whole contraption together. The outer metal cage is just a reference...I want to mount the double din cage in the dash then slide the fabricated double din monitor in the cage. Hopefully the glue will hold...

**elBradford** · 12-11-2008, 09:43 PM

I was also thinking of using a Double Din as a frame for my LCD mount, I just haven't gotten to that point yet. Hope yours works out.

**HiJackZX1** · 12-12-2008, 02:22 PM

Originally Posted by nobb

Well since no one answered the question on what glue to use for metal to plastic bonding, I went ahead and just gorilla glued the whole contraption together. The outer metal cage is just a reference...I want to mount the double din cage in the dash then slide the fabricated double din monitor in the cage. Hopefully the glue will hold...

Use metal/plastic epoxy. I used JB Weld for my metal to metal needs, but I have also used it with metal to plastic. Just make sure that both items have been heavily sanded to give both areas a rough surface for the epoxy to grasp onto.

**rdholtz** · 12-12-2008, 02:41 PM

Originally Posted by HiJackZX1

Use metal/plastic epoxy. I used JB Weld for my metal to metal needs, but I have also used it with metal to plastic. Just make sure that both items have been heavily sanded to give both areas a rough surface for the epoxy to grasp onto.

You might also plastic weld or glue some "mushrooms" onto the back of the plastic. That will help the JB Weld grab it.

**nobb** · 12-12-2008, 11:15 PM

Hmm, I never thought about JB Weld. I heard that stuff is really strong. Too late now, gorilla glue is holding up extremely well so I think Ill stick with that and some epoxy. Here is an update of the project. Ive butchered things up a bit, but everything is going to plan so far and it all fits. Ive attached the circuit board to the frame using the stock lilliput mount gorilla glued to the metal frame.

**HiJackZX1** · 12-13-2008, 12:43 AM

Originally Posted by nobb

Hmm, I never thought about JB Weld. I heard that stuff is really strong. Too late now, gorilla glue is holding up extremely well so I think Ill stick with that and some epoxy. Here is an update of the project. Ive butchered things up a bit, but everything is going to plan so far and it all fits. Ive attached the circuit board to the frame using the stock lilliput mount gorilla glued to the metal frame.

Gorilla glue may work now, but if you live in an area that will get warm, it will start to come undone. Remember the inside of the dash can become warm. I honestly would redo it. If there is anything I have learned when building CarPCs is to not half a$$ things.

Also, what is that crompelded metal? Did you do that to make it more compact? If I were you, I would fabricate that piece too, its fairly easy.

**nobb** · 12-13-2008, 12:53 AM

What about JB weld or epoxy around the edges/crevices instead? Right now it is next to impossible to rip it all apart.

The crumpled metal is the single din cage I am using as the base structural support. I had to use pliers to shape it. It looks like crap, but it holds everything else in place perfectly and it will be hidden, so oh well.

**HiJackZX1** · 12-13-2008, 01:20 AM

Originally Posted by nobb

What about JB weld or epoxy around the edges/crevices instead? Right now it is next to impossible to rip it all apart.

The crumpled metal is the single din cage I am using as the base structural support. I had to use pliers to shape it. It looks like crap, but it holds everything else in place perfectly and it will be hidden, so oh well.

You could do that, that would add some type of strength. Well that is true, it will be hidden.