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Thread: E46 - CarPC Work Log

  1. #11
    Maximum Bitrate bes51659's Avatar
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    Oh I see. You scrap the BMW buttons! Will you fit a USB DVD?

    It will be very interesting to see how you will mount the LCD panel inside. Aspecially the cables.

    You might be interested in the pcb I am designing at the moment. As you can see it will fit nicely into the BM. It will use existing screw holes.


    (this happen to be my second BM with tape and not CD)

    It will provide this functionality (standalone)
    - sensor to detect a CD in the slot so that the door does not close and break something
    - when door is open it will "press" the "CD open" button on USB DVD. It is a bit tricky to find in the dark
    additional features with my power control module:
    - interface to buttons for PC on-off and rearview camera on
    - generating the "LCD on" 12V signal for the LCD panel when PC has booted
    - generating "AV select" when going into revers or pressing rearview on button
    - gateway for IBus so that the buttons still work after you turn off ignition. (obviously no importance to you)
    - enable signal for usb power supply

    And more for non-IBus cars.

    I am writing the software at the moment and sorting out the hardware, so it is not done tomorrow...

  2. #12
    Maximum Bitrate bes51659's Avatar
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    I now realize that you probably intend to make your own motor drive circuit as you have removed the "eject" button. Or do you have something else in mind?

  3. #13
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    Nexson: Thank you very much Brian! Like you haven't heard this a million times, but you do amazing work! I've also looked at your post which gave me a lot of ideas and inspiration
    I was honestly thinking the same thing about the buttons once I laid bondo over them and also the layer was so thin that you can easily dent it. I was entertaining the idea of fiberglassing because I do have all the supplies as I always wanted to make something but never got around to it. The only reason I think I didn't is because I've never done it before. I do have a question about fiberglassing - in this situation, should I lay the fabric on the inside of the plate, and push the fabric out of the button openings just to create an indent and then apply resin on the inside; once the inside sets, apply resin on the front to fill in the remaining voids at buttons openings? Does that sound right?

    bes51659: USB DVD drive was my choice, but I do like what you are trying to accomplish! I actually want to reuse the stock circuit for eject function, but I may have problems fitting everything in. If I do, I'll have to come up with a solution. Since I've chosen to deal with static structures in my career and not electrical circuits, I am very inclined in that field so my other solution would be something simple like setting up a DPDT switch to control the motor. (I'm sure that's also not as simple as I assume it would be). I would love to get some ideas/suggestions in that regard.

    Eugene

  4. #14
    Maximum Bitrate bes51659's Avatar
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    I kept the entire electronics of the BM for one purpuse only. The buttons :-)

    Tare the electronics out! I think you should drive your motor with electronics of your own, pluggin the end sensors and the motor into it. This electronics would benefit from an IBus interface. That way you could use any button in your car to open the lid. Like I do with the left turn nob. When held for a second or two, the PC is shutdown.

    You could probably use my pcb for that purpose, modifying the code for your purpose.

    That pcb also has analogue switches. You can use them instead of the buttons on the Lilliput panel controlling them from the PC.
    btw, does not the Lilliput have a remote? Would it not be easier to open an "eye" on the BM for the remote sensor than to mold the entire panel at the bottom? (Even if I think that was very clever)

    But another of my question remains. How will you connect the LCD panel, given that it has to be flexible to allow the lid to open?

  5. #15
    Maximum Bitrate bes51659's Avatar
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    BTW.One more question. Is not the 7 inch screen wider than the original 6,5' panel? Why did you not open up the hole from left to right too?

    (Sounds like I am complaining a lot, but I am actually following this with great interest and am quite happy to help out if there is something you'd like me to do or just suggest solutions to)

  6. #16
    Maximum Bitrate Crinos's Avatar
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    Bes: You asked all my questions, the only thing left for me to say, is about the same as you...

    I'm following this with great interest!

  7. #17
    VENDOR - Nexations Creations Nexson's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kraimer21 View Post
    Nexson: Thank you very much Brian! Like you haven't heard this a million times, but you do amazing work! I've also looked at your post which gave me a lot of ideas and inspiration
    I was honestly thinking the same thing about the buttons once I laid bondo over them and also the layer was so thin that you can easily dent it. I was entertaining the idea of fiberglassing because I do have all the supplies as I always wanted to make something but never got around to it. The only reason I think I didn't is because I've never done it before. I do have a question about fiberglassing - in this situation, should I lay the fabric on the inside of the plate, and push the fabric out of the button openings just to create an indent and then apply resin on the inside; once the inside sets, apply resin on the front to fill in the remaining voids at buttons openings? Does that sound right?

    bes51659: USB DVD drive was my choice, but I do like what you are trying to accomplish! I actually want to reuse the stock circuit for eject function, but I may have problems fitting everything in. If I do, I'll have to come up with a solution. Since I've chosen to deal with static structures in my career and not electrical circuits, I am very inclined in that field so my other solution would be something simple like setting up a DPDT switch to control the motor. (I'm sure that's also not as simple as I assume it would be). I would love to get some ideas/suggestions in that regard.

    Eugene
    What I would probably do is really sand down the areas where you are going to fiberglass. I would fiberglass it from the front, so you are adding a layer over the buttons. Sand down the areas with at least 60 grit to get the plastic roughed up. Fiberglass doesn't bond easily with plastic, so this step is key. I would then just cut a piece of fiberglass mat and simply "resin"/fiberglass that mat.

    Once it is fully cured, sand it down to get it somewhat even, then add body filler for a smooth surface.

    One layer should be enough in this case
    Brian @Nexations Creations

    Specialist in Custom Interior Fiberglass OEM Replication Work.

    AIM: Exus28
    E-Mail: Exus28@aol.com

  8. #18
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    Hey guys, I had my surgery on Monday so now I am fully recovered and can finally continue...
    bes: I would absolutely love to get rid of all the electronics inside the BM, but like I mentioned earlier I am very inclined when it comes to electronics therefore my original plan involved as little work with BM electronics as possible. If you can help me with your pcb board to drive the motor, I would be extremely grateful! Same goes for the "eye" sensor on the Lilliput, even though it is just extending it, I still did not want to mess it up. I felt more comfortable molding Lilliput buttons in.
    Regarding the wiring for the Lilliput, I've played around with this idea and it seemed to work pretty well: Placing Lilliput's pcb board inside the monitor case as far to the left (looking at the screen) as possible so the VGA cable is as far from the edge as possible. I found a spring and secured one end to the VGA cable and the other end secured to the monitor case (the larger one that is stationary). When the screen tilts, spring expands creating tension on the cable (of course the harness has to be secured not to "harm" the connection) when the screen goes back to its normal position the spring contracts retracting the cable.
    Now about the 6.5" opening vs. the 7" Lilliput issue - I originally planned on opening all 4 sides. I started with the one I showed above and test fitted. By adjusting the screen horizontal positions, the visibility is about 95%. I know it somewhat messes with the resolution, but it seemed fine. I'll take some pictures with it fitted to show you, but I may adjust it by opening from left to right (depending on how things progress).

    Brian: I see what you are saying, but I would need to sand a perfect rectangle down. The top two buttons, both left and right side are really close to that "crease" on the panel which will be a pain to work out (not that I'm scared of a challenge ) But I think I will do just that! Thanks a lot.

  9. #19
    VENDOR - Nexations Creations Nexson's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kraimer21 View Post
    Hey guys, I had my surgery on Monday so now I am fully recovered and can finally continue...
    bes: I would absolutely love to get rid of all the electronics inside the BM, but like I mentioned earlier I am very inclined when it comes to electronics therefore my original plan involved as little work with BM electronics as possible. If you can help me with your pcb board to drive the motor, I would be extremely grateful! Same goes for the "eye" sensor on the Lilliput, even though it is just extending it, I still did not want to mess it up. I felt more comfortable molding Lilliput buttons in.
    Regarding the wiring for the Lilliput, I've played around with this idea and it seemed to work pretty well: Placing Lilliput's pcb board inside the monitor case as far to the left (looking at the screen) as possible so the VGA cable is as far from the edge as possible. I found a spring and secured one end to the VGA cable and the other end secured to the monitor case (the larger one that is stationary). When the screen tilts, spring expands creating tension on the cable (of course the harness has to be secured not to "harm" the connection) when the screen goes back to its normal position the spring contracts retracting the cable.
    Now about the 6.5" opening vs. the 7" Lilliput issue - I originally planned on opening all 4 sides. I started with the one I showed above and test fitted. By adjusting the screen horizontal positions, the visibility is about 95%. I know it somewhat messes with the resolution, but it seemed fine. I'll take some pictures with it fitted to show you, but I may adjust it by opening from left to right (depending on how things progress).

    Brian: I see what you are saying, but I would need to sand a perfect rectangle down. The top two buttons, both left and right side are really close to that "crease" on the panel which will be a pain to work out (not that I'm scared of a challenge ) But I think I will do just that! Thanks a lot.
    I hope the surgery was minor, as you are already recovered

    I am not sure if you understand what I mean, or if I do not under what your saying.

    You can down down the fiberglass once it is laid and dried. You just have to sand it down, it will lay over the button's orginal holes and will also extend over and ontop the plastic to create a layer.
    Brian @Nexations Creations

    Specialist in Custom Interior Fiberglass OEM Replication Work.

    AIM: Exus28
    E-Mail: Exus28@aol.com

  10. #20
    Maximum Bitrate bes51659's Avatar
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    Ok, you seem to have it covered. I will help you with the electronics. I will do it for myself too :-)

    My aproach has been to connect the sensors of the CD to my board and simulate proper signals to make the BM open and close lid as I want. I will change aproach to the following:

    1) Motor control. I will place connectors on my pcb to DC motor and its sensors, hopefully with existing cables. Then I can control the DC motor myself.
    2) optical sensor for CD in mouth piece. This way you will not be able to close lit when CD is in the way. If you trust yourself not trying to do such a stupid thing, you do not have to use it.
    3) It will have an output to press the USB_DVD open button so that the DVD is automatically ejected when lid is completely open.
    4) The pcb has IBus interface and will be able to detect eject button or any other BMW button.
    5) You can also connect any DDTST (?) button, or send message onto IBus (COM) from your PC to open lid.
    6) It will have 2 yellow LEDs that you position inside to show CD slot position
    7) It will have a red LED to indicate CD in slot
    8) I might add other features from my GPS and Powercontrol module to control poweramp, PC on-off, input select of LCD panel and PC state indication with two LED's. One yellow and one red.

    I will get back to you when I am ready to order a pcb.

    Then you will be able to remove the main pcb in your BM and for free get holes to put cables thru. This is a very simple task I am sure you will be able to do :-)

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