Brian: I had Lasik on Monday so now I can finally see!! Recovery was literally a few hours. Now that I can see, I realized all the mistakes I've made :) I totally understand what you are saying, but what I am concerned about is I would have to be very careful to maintain the lines/curves of the panel. Yesterday I was test fitting the screen and I came to realization...I really need to expand the sides (left to right); even though I can adjust the horizontal screen position and make it fit inside the opening as it is now...the picture looked a bit off. Plus if I am already doing it, I better do it right. As they say: "Do it once, do it right, do it yourself". Today I will cut out the sides and adjust it to fit better. Regarding fiberglass, I know you mentioned to sand the area down with 60 grit to provide adhesion, I will also clean it with rubbing alcohol or acetone, but isn't there something else than can be done to provide the best adhesion possible?
bes: You made me smile as I was reading your reply :) Let me know if you need anything from me! Seriously if there is anything I can help with, I will be more than willing.
so...a little update:
I found out that the mechanical department at my school has purchased a Dimension SST 1200es - a rapid prototype printer!!! With a help of a good friend, the stock bezel was modeled in SolidWorks to incorporate Lilliput's 7" screen and mounting locations. I will try to print out the model and see how that comes out. Even though a prototype printer does not leave a perfect finish on a part, it does however provide precise dimensions! - expecting the model is precise ;)
Anyways, here are a few screen shots of the SolidWorks model:
More update when I get my hands on the prototype printer ;)
Excellent! Can you use it for free?!?!? I think everyone should have one.
btw. I found and ordered parts for the motor control, but net week I will be on holiday. Eventually....
Hey... That is unfair! :lol:
Makes the whole thing a weeeeeee bit more easier :)
Did you friend have the blueprints for the bezel to used with SolidWorks? Looks acurate!
bes: I can use it for free as long as I don't go on a printing spree ;) but to get a prototype or two I can use it for free. I still have a loooooot to do before I am even close to the install so we have some time.
crinos: I agree about it being unfair! I started the conventional way, but I knew there had to be a better way! and I hopefully found it :lol: And no blueprints, he is just that good. The dimensions are extremely accurate.
Looks good mate, looking forward to seeing the part, rapid prototyping is great.
Any chance you might be willing to share the solidworks files? I might have an e46 on my hands in the near future and am collecting what ever resources/info i can.
As a side note... I would be interested in the CAD files as well. :)
Even though, I'm making my bezzel the old fashion way.. lol.
How solid is the product the printer makes? Can it be used, or is it as you call it... a prototype that suits only for encasing just that... a prototype of sorts.
i dont know about the specific printer kraimer has access to but if its the typical powder layers with binder deposits then I wouldnt reccomend it as a permenant fixture. The prints can be treated with a urethane (i think) coating which penetrates the part effectivly making a plasitc of it but for thin sections they still have fairly low stength.
There are also other rapid prototying processes which can be used to effectivley print a part direct from a CAD model with an end product that is a proper plastic part (SLA from memory is one such process).
Its been 6-12 months since i had a serious look at these things too and at the rate things were developing last time i was looking processes are probably a fair way advanced on what i know.
Sorry about the "delay" in makeing a DC motor drive for you. I've got the components, but I am waiting for a new microscope so that I can start the build. (I have also had some time off work, being summer here in Sweden and all)
I have a question for you, whishlist wise. Pcb will have
1) DC motor drive with inputs from sensors.
2) Momentary-close button input that will open/close the door.
3) Analogue switch output so that CD/DVD open button is "pressed" when door opens.
4) Sensor input for CD in eject position (to avoid jammed mechanics)
5) LED output to signal that CD is in eject position
Anything else? (I want to make sure I've got all the inputs/outputs I need)
Like using the PWM from the dash to generate 0-5V as LCD panel LED backlight brightness control. I will design this anyway so that LCD brightness is controled by you dash backligh thumbwheel. Configurable sensitivity.
Or switch to AV input when car is put in reverse, or by press of button. I have that code already so that camera is turned on when I flick the sideview mirror switch. Does your monitor has an input for this? If it switches in the rearview camera automatic you can use this output for turning on the camera.
Originally Posted by bes51659
Delay???? I am just really excited that you are actually serious about this unlike most people that I've been dealing with lately that are just full of promises [more on this later :) ]
I really like every option you have listed and I would love the control of the back-up camera when I shift in reverse. I am sure my Lilliput 629 has that option, but I will double check when I'm home today. Also, regarding the brightness control - this is something I hear a lot of people complaining with Lilliputs that they are way too bright in the dark and even when playing with "Night dimmer" settings in RideRunner. Therefore that feature would also be amazing!
I can't really think of anything else, you have seem to cover everything AND much more that I ever wanted to do; unless you do come up with something else, just let me know ;)
NOW I have a little update myself!
The reason its been taking so long with the Face Plate are the people that I mentioned earlier who are just full of promises. The 3D prototype printer has been "given" to a different department in the university which is ran by a bunch of A..holes. I ended up paying someone to do it.
Now to the fun stuff!!
As you can see, the models dimension are an exact replica of the OEM bezel, but since I had just gotten, I didn't get a chance to fit the screen and the BM, but it looks very accurate so far!
The finish is as I expected and will need to be sanded and filled with Bondo (most likely, unless someone recommends a better product).
Back on the roll!!