wow really nice project Sir you got Skills
Crinos, there is a much cheaper 50mm (obviously not as good as that one, but still quite a decent lens for the price)
That is the 70-200mm lens that I have - love it!
I was also thinking of getting a tilt shift lens, but for portraits.. it doesn't really do much good hehe. Unless you want people to look like miniatures!
Yeah, everything goes onto the business.. even my CarMP3 stuff
I haven't tried SSD's yet - I have one in my sony vaio x but it isn't the fastest type. Like I said before - I really just want to get it up and running before I try different things out
wow really nice project Sir you got Skills
Franco A Pacheco
2000 BMW 740IL
2009 Toyota Corolla
1997 Rav 4
If you're referring to me; then thank you, but this thread tied together a number of great projects!
by the way - back to the drawing board (kinda); took the pc out to install my newly purchased Win7 Pro...along with the so anxiously anticipated B-O's pcb! stay tuned...
B-O, get ready to get bombarded with questions
I finally hardwired the pc (ran all the wires under the carpet) as before everything was temporarily running along the seat on top of the carpet. Windows 7 doesn't support some of my hardware so I have to download some of the drivers.
I will install B-O's pcb tonight and try to get something accomplished...
At first glance, it looks pretty awesome. Boot-up time seems to be drastically reduced!
I guess you're right about the MS mentality..and it does make some sense
I run 32 bit..
How's your progress going?!
It was mentioned earlier, but any chance you might be willing to release the solidworks/cad files for the plastics?
I enlcose a picture of how to connect PC power and PC power-on switch with relays.
There is also nice info on post 294.
I have also some info on my site here (not 100% upto date)
Here are two pictures I might have put in earlier posts too.
LED's can be any color obviously, and does not need serie resistors.
Buttons are momentary single pole ones.
LED Backlight is optional.
Amp remote is connected to poweramp so that is on only when PC has booted and is fully operational. All amps I've seen has an input for this.
"Unlock in" is only if you do not have IBus. Connected to central lock
"PC FAN in" is connected to any 12V fan inside the PC. It will provide info if PC is on or off.
"PC On" will provide a pulse for a pc on switch relay to simulate button press.
"Reverse in" is again only for non-IBus installations. Connected to reverse light. Only used if rearview camera is used.
"LCD on" is connected to LCD panel. On my LCD panel there is an "ignition" input that will automatically turn the LCD panel on whenever ignition is on. Use that input.
"Ibus switch" and "IBus". In order to intercept ignition off messages from car I have one IBus connection to car and one to the BM. This is because when ignition is off the buttons on the BM will be disabled. Maybe unlogical the "IBUs" is to be connected to BM and "IBus switched" to car. Kraimer is not using his buttons and can connect only "IBUS" to car.
Battery. 12V at all times. The pcb will only sink a couple of mA, so there is no worry.
"rearview on". When using rearview camera this is to be connected to input of LCD panel. On my panel there is a connection for automatically switching into AV2 mode. Use that input.
"USB ON". Only on when power is on to PC. Connect to power relay on PC to avoid loosing power when car is standing still. Can also be used as input to DC/DC converters for USB hubs. I have a 5V DC/DC converter for my hubs, and it has a 12V enable input that I use.
Remember that when testing system on your desk you need a pull-up on ibus. You can engage onboard pull-up with jumper. Do not forget to remove when installing in car.
Just to give an idee of what parts you need to install into car
On radioshack there is a relay that is suitable for the PC power. 275-001.
For the other relay you can use the smallest 12V relay you can find. On radioshack the smallest I found was 275-249.
For protection diodes, you can use 1N4148, or 276-1122 at radioshack.
For indicator LED's there is not a lot to choose from in radio shack. I would prefer square ones, but you could use 276-012. They have different color depending on how you connect them.
You also need two pushbuttons for power and for eject. They have to be "momentary close". (This is the problematic ones together with the LED's. To find items that will will install nicely into your dash, or where you choose to put them) 275-1556
This is one way of connecting power relay for the PC, and the pc on-off button relay
Obvioulsy there has to be a fuse between the battery and the system.
My car installation mp3car thread "showing off project"
Windows Embeded 7 is even faster.
Currently I'm testing various installation setup to strip as much as possible of the unneeded stuff.
I have tried OpenMobile Frontend on a typical "Application" install, and it works great! (minus speach plug-in, never did get thing to work properly).
(PS: Not going to use OpenMobile, because I want something that is pure 64bit).
I've been thinking alot lately. About placement of the computer itself.
At first, I thought that the trunk is best suited for a CarPC install, but I do not want to steal any of the normal space in the trunk. There fore, I planed to mount CarPC, Amp and Sub in the cargowell where the sparetire and tools are. (Quite large room in the E46 Touring).
But recently I've been thinking about this large "hole" I have under my bonnet. It's ment for a spare battery, but the size should be enough for both the computer and much of it's extra accessories.
The main concern is humidity... Even when build into a box with good ventilation. Or perhaps i just should submerge the whole thing with the 3M antistatic fluid, but this requires a circulation pump and a radiator to cool the liquid down.
In the summer time, everything should be working nicely. But winter times with -30 Celcious can give quite large diferences from hot engine to cold engine, and vice versa.
Thoughts is welcome!