That rapid prototype is amazingly good. I have to look around and see where I can get that done. What a huge leap forward!
If just enough is really good, then too much ought to be perfect.
2006 Scion xB with in-dash Atom & Lilliput 889GL -- Worklog at http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/work...res-links.html
As you say, making this bezzel smooth and soft realy isn't that hard. Since it's allready rugged, you can start to fill it with mold stright away, rubbit, and put some thin layers of putty on top.
Thanks! I'll put up fitted pictures in a little. You can see how perfect the fitment came out. I highly recommend these guys - http://www.printo3d.com/ Bradley knows what he's doing!Originally Posted by rdholtz
WOW, Looks great! Now to the easy part! Knock down alot of that texture first, before you fill it, then smooth thin layers on it and sand it down from 80-220. You know the proceedure. Repaint with SEM Texture and Satin Black!! =)
Here are some fitment pictures:
Note how the screen fills the entire frame
1) When you did the model; could you select the ruffness to be "upto" size or "at least upto" size?
2) Are the two flexstrips on the pics "touch" and strip to a mainboard?
3) Will you not use the OEM frame? How will you keep it all together? Where will you put the mainboard?
About the pcb
I have now bought a N52 from Hiinfo (6,5" panel at 550USD) that I will integrate into my 2'nd BM. That unit has an 7 lead (8 really, but one is cut away) flexcable 1mm div to connect its buttons.
What I want to do (that will delay me somewhat more) is to connect that lead to my pcb and simulate button presses. As these button boards very often work the same way* (and because I can see that you have not made room for the lilliput buttons) I wonder if you have a flexcable like that? If so I can fit a connector for it, and then you will be able to control the buttons from your pc. Spec please.
*) using a resistor ladder
Sorry, now I see the lilliput buttons in that bottom part!
My car installation mp3car thread "showing off project"
You dont even really need bondo. Just use this stuff called spot putty. It takes a bit longer to dry, but it sands easy and is easy to apply (with finger). You should sand all the lines off so it is somewhat even, then filler, prime wetsand paint.
I actually drew up the whole thing, including the housing. Took only couple of hours. On those machines its hard to select the finish. Since it has to put a specific amount of the ABS plastic down. In many cases its better to let it do it rougher rather that finer. Since if its rougher it is stronger. In any case, rougher in this case is better since the putty can stick better to it. Also the face plate looks awesome in person, even like this. Cant wait till its 100% done.
The thing actually meant to have Pico-ITX put inside the box behind the LCD, but kraimer has already another PC.
The dude that drew up the thing. and finally registered on this forum.