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Thread: E46 - CarPC Work Log

  1. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by bes51659 View Post
    Great job!
    1) When you did the model; could you select the ruffness to be "upto" size or "at least upto" size?
    2) Are the two flexstrips on the pics "touch" and strip to a mainboard?
    3) Will you not use the OEM frame? How will you keep it all together? Where will you put the mainboard?

    About the pcb
    I have now bought a N52 from Hiinfo (6,5" panel at 550USD) that I will integrate into my 2'nd BM. That unit has an 7 lead (8 really, but one is cut away) flexcable 1mm div to connect its buttons.
    What I want to do (that will delay me somewhat more) is to connect that lead to my pcb and simulate button presses. As these button boards very often work the same way* (and because I can see that you have not made room for the lilliput buttons) I wonder if you have a flexcable like that? If so I can fit a connector for it, and then you will be able to control the buttons from your pc. Spec please.

    *) using a resistor ladder




    Edit->
    Sorry, now I see the lilliput buttons in that bottom part!

    See Yuri's (kakarot1232001) response regarding the roughness.
    The mainboard attaches to the back cover (where Lilliput's buttons are) and the flex strips are long enough so I'm able to connect everything and snap both parts in place.
    I'm sorry, but what OEM frame are you referring to? Everything is held together via tabs that are replicated from the OEM face plate so the new (prototyped) plate just snaps into place with the OEM rear cover.

    That N52 looks really interesting! How's the LCD quality? If I understand correctly, all you will be using is the LCD and its control buttons and you want to connect it to your pcb but use a pc to control everything?

    That would be nice if I could control Lilliput's controls with my pc but I already molded the buttons. What exactly would I be able to control if we went with pcb option? Everything Lilliput's buttons control?

    Quote Originally Posted by Nexson
    You dont even really need bondo. Just use this stuff called spot putty. It takes a bit longer to dry, but it sands easy and is easy to apply (with finger). You should sand all the lines off so it is somewhat even, then filler, prime wetsand paint.
    Brian, are you talking about Bondo's Spot Putty or they the same?



    Quote Originally Posted by kakarot1232001
    I actually drew up the whole thing, including the housing. Took only couple of hours. On those machines its hard to select the finish. Since it has to put a specific amount of the ABS plastic down. In many cases its better to let it do it rougher rather that finer. Since if its rougher it is stronger. In any case, rougher in this case is better since the putty can stick better to it. Also the face plate looks awesome in person, even like this. Cant wait till its 100% done.

    The thing actually meant to have Pico-ITX put inside the box behind the LCD, but kraimer has already another PC.

    The dude that drew up the thing. and finally registered on this forum.
    Welcome Yuri and thank you again for an amazing job! You know I agree with you that the place looks really nice in person even as is, however if the "rough" finish was consistent, I would definately leave it this way, but since it is not, I will finish it off.

  2. #42
    VENDOR - Nexations Creations Nexson's Avatar
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    The one in the picture is the exact one you should use! I was refering to it
    Brian @Nexations Creations

    Specialist in Custom Interior Fiberglass OEM Replication Work.

    AIM: Exus28
    E-Mail: Exus28@aol.com

  3. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nexson View Post
    The one in the picture is the exact one you should use! I was refering to it
    Cool, just bought it!
    Brian, I wanted to purchase a primer at an auto parts store, but wanted to check with you first which primer is "better"? Should I get SEM primer since I'll be using their paint and texture?

  4. #44
    Maximum Bitrate bes51659's Avatar
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    I see. Lilliput has only got one single LCd controller pcb, and a small one for the buttons.

    The frame I am refering to (I could not think of anything better than "oem frame". Bad imagination) is the frame that are inside the BM door, that the hinges screws are attached to. Will you still use it? Will you attach the panel and everything to it? Apart from the plastic clips there are the 4 screws going thru the whole thing inserted at the back. I have a general intrerest in how you will make the thing hold together. Pics apreciated as you proceed. (as now)

    Yes, I want to control some buttons from the pc, or rather via ibus with own non-conflicting messages. With one exception. I want to pick up the PWM signal in the dash that gives backlight strength and control brightness that way. If its not too much work.

    IMHO. Since you have invented such a nice way to add build in the buttons you would not really need this feature.

    Took a couple of pics of DC motor and the sensors. Since the wires are to short to reach my pcb (I only have freeware eagle cad with limited pcb size) I will make longer cables.



    N52 contains the same sharp LCD as CID650 use to have. I have one in my car today and are quite happy with it. Nothing to compare it with though.

    Turns out it will fit nicely into the unit. I will have to make a hole in the back for the flex cable. I will also cut down the frame that came with the N52 so that I can use it to hold the LCD controller pcb in my setup too.

    I think I will glue the LCD to the front...


  5. #45
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    Had some time over the weekend to progress even further. Results:


    close-up of the texture after prototyping


    after some sanding




    zippo makes a perfect sanding block


    after some spot putty and more fine sanding (BTW this product is amazing!)


    final finishing on the buttons section


    modified original bracket to reuse stock mounting locations




    note how everything matches perfectly


    LCD mounting




    and finally everything mounted


  6. #46
    VENDOR - Nexations Creations Nexson's Avatar
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    Looking very clean!!! When you go to prime. Use a product called Duplicolor Filler Primer. Get the gray can. It works great to show you any spots that still need to be filled. It also fills in small sanding scratches. Make sure to allow it to dry before sanding. You can find this spray can at wal-mart as well in the automotive section or auto zone.
    Brian @Nexations Creations

    Specialist in Custom Interior Fiberglass OEM Replication Work.

    AIM: Exus28
    E-Mail: Exus28@aol.com

  7. #47
    Maximum Bitrate bes51659's Avatar
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    Just the pics I wanted. Excellent fitting to the bracket! (I used epoxy)

    I have found that the sensor pcb has 2 end switches and a position detector (potentiometer)

    Preparing my BM mechanically before finishing electronics. Pics here

  8. #48
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    Brian: Thanks! I will pick up the primer today. I do however want to do a little modification to the face plate (still considering whether or not to do it). If you look at my last picture (where the screen is on), the cut out for the LCD has rounded corners instead of square and is a tiny bit too "open". When my friend was modeling the piece, we didn't realize that open view area is a bit smaller on the touch panel (because of the wiring on the sides). He however modeled it absolutely perfect based on an open area of the LCD. Now the rounded edges and the fact that it’s a little too "open" make the screen look a bit out of place when its on.
    I will try to extend the edges (changing the angle slightly) and square off the corners. Do you think I can use the spot putty? I know it's meant for very thin applications so I was thinking of doing it in a few layers. Just because it is so easy to work with compared to Bondo.

    B-O: Thank you! The plate needs to be modified because Lilliput’s pcb board doesn’t fit as I wanted it to. When I was installing the plate, I didn’t have the pcb with me so I couldn’t test fit and by eye it looked as if there was enough clearance. What I need to do is cut the middle section out so the pcb can sit a little lower.
    Your set-up is coming out really nice as well!! You have an advantage because you are using or (re-using) ribbon cables which are easy to run and tuck away. The VGA plug for the Lilliput is really bulky. Even though everything fits, but it fits very tightly.
    I like how the N52 LCD fits! Does the stock face plate cover any of the view area? How are you securing the LCD?

  9. #49
    Maximum Bitrate bes51659's Avatar
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    The face plate is not covering any of the view area.

    I also had to saw into the frame. In fact I took most of it away ->



    About sequring the LCD.... I have glued the LCD panel to front, and a baseplate for the LCD controller onto the back of the LCD. So I have a nice front and back, but it does not feel very well to rely on the plastic snap-ons to keep it together. Onfortunately I destroyed the "plastic nuts". ->



    I want to glue a nut in place to be able to screw front and back together. Or somehow rebuild the plastic.

    Ideas appreciated!

  10. #50
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    I was never a fan of gluing...mixed feeling between unreliable and permanent...
    I can somewhat make out your dilemma with the LCD, but if you can take a few more shots further away it will probably be clearer.

    Unfortunately I butchered my stock face plate with the original attempt, otherwise I would just send it to you. If you still want it, just let me know.

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