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Thread: E46 - CarPC Work Log

  1. #71
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    Quote Originally Posted by bes51659 View Post
    I have to leave for 10 days, and I already have some delays. I have not yet ordered the pcb's, and I am not completely done with review.

    2 weeks delay, sorry.
    That's all right; I hope you're leaving on vocation
    I now am struggling with my pc...for some reason the screen would not go on (even tried my home monitor). Everything boots up and I hear the hard drive spooling, but no video...

  2. #72
    Maximum Bitrate bes51659's Avatar
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    Yes it was holiday. Sailing in Greece :-)

    I have investigated the pinout on the motor and sensor pcb of the BM.

    Motor draws 110mA at 6V, but if door is jamed the motor draws 190mA. It is not more than 190mA since there is a clutch so that the motor still moves even if door is still.

    Because of the motor being a 6V motor I have desided to build my own H-bridge with P-FET and current limiting NPN transistors so that there is no need for 6V regulator. Smaller, cheaper and better.

    I will order pcb's next week, that is week 38 instead of 34....


    I count from left to right on picture

    pin2.1 : 3v3 active low when open
    pin2.2 : 3v3 active low when close
    pin2.3 : 5V supply
    pin2.4 : 0-5V, and minimum when closed.
    pin2.5 : GND

  3. #73
    Maximum Bitrate bes51659's Avatar
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    Turns out I need to extend the flat cable for the lcd controller. It was long enough but it was upside down. Once folded to get correctly into connector it was far too short.

    I have to do this to find out the button interface.

    Long story: further delays:-(

    On this pic is the 50 wire connector on the low edge on the board. It also shows how I had to move a couple of components in order to fit the DVD on top.


  4. #74
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    It's never easy man! There's always something ... important thing is not to give up

    I've been having an oil leak problem that is killing me! I've tried to remedy the problem 3 times already - the last time I dropped the whole front subframe thinking it was the oil pan gasket and in the last minute I figured it wasn't...now I think it is the problem so I need to fix that before I get more progress on the fun stuff

    keep me updated and by the way I have a bunch of spare parts from the BM - if you need something, just let me know!

  5. #75
    Maximum Bitrate bes51659's Avatar
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    :-) I wish I could (/had room/a second car) for doing a little more of those greasy jobs.
    For the time being I do not lack any BM parts, but good to know, thanks!

  6. #76
    Maximum Bitrate bes51659's Avatar
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    I have now extended the flatflexi. First time I've seen something on my second BM!

    I have found that the buttons can be simulated with the help of two DAC's, or as I will do it, one DAC and two analogue switches.



    Pin on keyboard flat flexi counting towards cut edge:
    4 GND, 6 buttons, 7 joystick.

    Button Voltage
    None 3.3V
    Power On 2.2V
    PCPWR 1.65
    Mode 1.25V
    Band 0.845V
    Scan/Sel 0.440V
    Mute 0V


    Joystick Voltage
    None 3.3V
    Up 0.440V
    Right 1.635V
    Down 0.840V
    Left 1.250V
    Press 0V


    So now there's no excuse anymore. I must complete the design :-)

  7. #77
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    ooh - screen is on
    good job!! I honestly can't wait to see the finished product!

  8. #78
    Maximum Bitrate bes51659's Avatar
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    Well, I've seen that you have got your screen running for a long time now. I do not like to try things out, so I did not test my monitor when I got it. I just took it to pieces right away :-)

    I was wondering.... What DVD drive will you use?

    I opened up the front behind the door as I had a TAPE BM and I also wanted to get better access when assembling cables and pcb's. My intention is to put a thin, black, L-shaped plate in there.



    It holds
    - the mouthpiece of a CD BM,
    - holes for positioning LED's on the sides of the DVD mouthpiece
    - hole for a jam detection LED (lit when there is a CD in the mouthpiece so that the door cannot be closed) I might loose that one...
    - support for the DVD. (An edge on the inside that the DVD can lean on)
    - holes for the optic sender and receiver. CD in mouthpiece detector. Fork, kind of. Invisible assembly.

    Should I make one for you too?

    I have also posted a message on hacktheibus of the last questionmark to be straightened out. About backlighting. Adam, a friend of mine in Australia, has a backlight on his panel that can be controlled with 0-5V. I will generate that voltage from car dash backlight as well as from the PC sending messages on COM port.

    Thoughts on this?

  9. #79
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    Sorry for a delayed response. We were robbed last week...someone broke into our house and stole a bunch of valuable stuff...words can't describe what I want to say about this...

    anyways...on a bright note: the dvd drive I chose, but haven't ordered yet, is this: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...ad%20dvd%20usb
    I like it because it is slot loading and I will be able to position it in the same spot where the stock one was. since I had a CD BM, I don't think I will be needing that plate since I can reuse the stock one. Speaking of the stock cd player..I still have it - just say the word and your address and I'll send it to you asap if you have use for it...
    all the LEDs, and sensors I will be able to incorporate into the stock plate, right?

    I saw your message on hacktheibus, that would be great if that feature would be incorporated! I wish I could help somehow, but I am clueless

  10. #80
    Maximum Bitrate bes51659's Avatar
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    Ready to order pcb. Soon.

    Oh, no. It seems like you are going thru a rough patch, aren't you. Sorry....

    I jump right into business, but that does not mean I do not feel for you...
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------------

    I have a BM CD player. And a tape one-- But thanks

    I am using a Panasonic slot-in player. I am sure you will have room for any player. And it will work fine to use existing panel. Maybe you have seen my first BM? (LED's are mine) I am sure yours will look very much like this. Well, apart from your larger screen :-)


    I have just made a layout. I will review it during this week to avoid silly straps. I am sure there will be a few anyway.

    This is how it will be assembled in the BM: (first proto)


    This is a drawing with its connectors

    Here is a better resolution pic:
    http://web.comhem.se/mulle4/dash_drawing_2.jpg

    DC Motor Function
    When the button is pressed (mid top edge) the door starts to open. When it is opened the DVD is triggered to eject CD that might be inside. (low left corner output)
    When button is pressed again, the door will close unless there is a CD not fully inserted blocking the jam sensor. (mid low edge)
    If there is to great mechanical resistance that slows down the opening or closing, the movement is canceled and door is going back to original position
    Instead of a button press, serial COM messages can be sent to the pcb via IBus or RS232 adapter from the car PC to command the door to open or close.

    Control of Ignition (LCD panel on)and rearview signal (select AV2) to the LCD panel
    There is two ways of letting the pcb control the LCD panel and select AV2 or VGA. Via buttons and/or via commands on serial channel (IBus or RS232 adapter) from carputer

    Full power control Function
    The pcb has a state machine, controlling the system. It will make your carputer installation feel OEM. It will listening in on IBus communication if you have a BMW, or you can connect various inputs to detect the same events that is read from the IBus line.

    It will control PC on and off, lcd panel on and off, power amp on and off (remote input) and USB power on and off.
    The two LED's (top edge to the right) will indicate the state, booting, shutting down etc.

    When you unlock the car/insert ignition key/ press 'on', the PC will start to boot to save booting time. (or exit hibernation/standby)
    When PC has booted the LCD will be turned on. No windows hello or byebye screens. The poweramp will also be enabled. No speaker bumps.

    The PC can be kept running for 30 minutes after ignition off. Then it is shut down if you do not press 'on' within 30s.

    When pressing 'on' with ignition on, only the LCD and power amp goes off, giving you instant access if you press on again.=Immidiate on off action once booted

    Holding 'on' for 1-2s will shutdown the PC.

    BM on-off button (or steeringwheel buttons) can be used as PC on-off.

    In short, OEM feel

    Not all code has been written yet, and some code has been running on older 8051 platforms. I suggest that you get a $69 eval kit including emulator from silabs to be able to update code.

    Edit->
    Oh yeah, I forgot. There is a 0-5V output for brightness control. The LED backlight driver.
    Edit2->
    and button interface so that I can control brightness and all other menu settings from the PC. With my Hiinfo N52, but I am sure that can be adapted to other LCD's fairly easy.

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