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Thread: First try for a subwoofer enclosure

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by jellymonster View Post
    have you looked into making a aperiodic membrane sub box?
    I see yo cutting foam trying to make space bigger, this could solve that. Just my thoughts =)
    This is the first i've heard of aperiodic membranes, but now i'm googling it. Have you had experience with them?

  2. #12
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    nope, I'm kinda doing the same thing as you soon so I've subscribed =P

    mine however is going inside the spare wheel so is going to be even smaller.

    From what I've gathered it's basically making a small sub box sound like a big one
    You basically get foam, squash it between two grills and theres your aperiodic membrane.

    Also if you want you can measure the impedance curve to see if you have too much or too little foam.
    Car: Ford Focus
    Currently stock setup. Trying to decide on the best setup for me.

  3. #13
    Variable Bitrate djvillar's Avatar
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    I am a fan of fiberglass, cause I've been working with it for quit some time now, but really I'm a bigger fan of getting the look and sound I want with the quickest turn around. Being that your shape is pretty regular, I wouldn't do any fiberglassing at all. The only reason I see to use fiberglass is to create a finished complex surface. Your not doing that here. You're going to have a flat floor finish. I'd say make a box, mount your sub, make a finish panel and route the edges around the sub so that your sub is "in-layed". Clean, quick, no waiting for resin to dry, no hoping it will hope up to the stress.

    I know it won't maximize the area like a perfect mold but are you really losing enough square inches to justify the work involved in prep, glassing, sanding, painting, etc... to justify the fiberglass route.

  4. #14
    Low Bitrate DocNupe's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MaXius View Post
    Seeing as I don't have a spare tyre but I do have a ****ty subwoofer, i'm going to replace it.

    So today I carved out some of the foam in my boot to make an area as big as I can.







    I'll be putting a Memphis 12" Shallow sub in here, the enclosure should be just about right, 1 sq ft.

    The top will be 3/4 inch MDF, and sub will be inset a little bit.


    So being a complete n00b with this fiberglassing thing, how much do you think i'll need?

    I was thinking maybe

    5 square metres of chopped fiberglass matting
    4kg polyester resin

    I know you make the fibreglass 'bowl' first, with a couple of layers, let it dry and pop it out. Then you reinforce it with a few more layers, until it's all good.

    Then cut the MDF to size ready to go on top. I guess i'll need to make sure I have room around the edges of where I want it to fit in the boot, considering i'll be putting extra width on when I glass the MDF in.

    Unfortunately in Australia we don't have 'bondo', so I assume normal (or reinforced) body putty would be fine for putting around the inside of the sub to seal up / reinforce the edges of the MDF.

    If i'm going off the track already, feel free to steer me in the right direction

    I say go for it. But remember, the resin will eat through that tape, and cause a mess , and the parts it wont eat through will get very hot and cause a mess. I would put another layer of something between the first coat and resin and tape. Also remember when you pull it out (if you can get it out) you will not have the exact same shape when you finish the box, stretching cloth will pull the sides in but not a big deal on finished product. Also get a bottle of MEK and a roller to roll the resin out of the fiberglass and watch for pooling. If I was doing this ( I love glass) I would cut the bottom out of 1/4 MDF to fit, and fiber glass to that. If you can bring in the sides at all from your design, you will have an much better time of getting this out of the car when it is dry.

  5. #15
    Variable Bitrate djvillar's Avatar
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    If you do go the fiberglass route. Mask the area with low stick masking tape (the blue or green tape) then get either foil tape which you can find in the ventilation/duct work section of Home depot or get some 3m adhesive spray and your normal cooking foiling. Spray the dull side of the tin foil then slap it on the masking tape. That will be your chemical (resin) barrier. Then get turtle wax and wax up the tin foil then buff out the residue,... that's your mold release.

    Whether you go with the box or the fiberglass, good luck and good building.

  6. #16
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    That's just the preliminary masking, (That's dynamat underneath, not foil lol) i've got lots more tape to put in there. That tape is lower tack than normal, I just thought the blue tape for 23 bux was a bit rich.

    I have contact adhesive which i'll be spraying over then putting foil, then some of my carnubra wax polish.

    Making the whole box out of mdf would really lose me space, it's a little bit more compound than the pics show. It's only 15cm deep... minus the mdf top to come, so say 12cm deep internal measurement. Flat MDF floor would lose you another 3 cm incl mdf thickness.

    Jellymonster: I know what you're getting at now, I think. Evidently if you stuff some polyester fill in the box the sub 'sees' about 20% extra space. Not quite the textbook definition of aperiodic but all good

  7. #17
    Variable Bitrate djvillar's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MaXius View Post
    That's just the preliminary masking, (That's dynamat underneath, not foil lol) i've got lots more tape to put in there.
    I know that's dynamat... You have to tape over the dynamat too. On top of the tape you then put foil. Tape is not a chemical barrier, foil is. The masking tape is used so that the foil can adhere to something (the tape) but the tape will still come off of the protected surface easily.

    You get me?

  8. #18
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    I know.. basically I haven't started masking yet. Just been carving foam

  9. #19
    Low Bitrate DocNupe's Avatar
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  10. #20
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    Looks a bit weird, and I don't have a golf anyway.

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