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Thread: First try for a subwoofer enclosure

  1. #21
    Sheepdog rdholtz's Avatar
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    They're very proud of that system, too: US$724.95.
    .
    If just enough is really good, then too much ought to be perfect.

    2006 Scion xB with in-dash Atom & Lilliput 889GL -- Worklog at http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/work...res-links.html
    .

  2. #22
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    I finished off the masking



    Then a mold release layer of foil (or glad wrap) on top of that.



    Next step, starting the fiberglassing! I put a couple of layers on, and let it harden overnight.
    I made up my resin in 500ml lots. Make any bigger quantity, and you'll have to work really fast.



    It was a real pain in the butt to get out, my release layer didn't exactly work. So I filled the box up with ice/water, (for shrinkage) and got a good grasp and PULLLLLL. It came away in one piece.

    Trim up the edges, and use some 80 grit sandpaper to rough it up for the next session.



    Added another layer or two over top of my rope reinforcement.



    How many layers is enough? I can do this now...



    My goodies arrived!


  3. #23
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    MDF Playtime now.

    I marked it out where I should cut, then went the hack with my router.



    Because I indented the sub 8mm, I wanted to reinforce behind it, so I made a 6mm spacer and glued that on.



    After that dried, I marked out my drill holes for the sub.



    Then I drilled them, then put some T Nut cabinet fittings on the inside so it's easy to bolt the sub in (without stripping the MDF).



    Then for a quick look-see, I whacked the sub in with a couple of screws. Oh yeah!



    Next step... cutting down the fiberglass enclosure to the proper height I needed, then hours of fiddly sanding to get the MDF to insert properly into the shape of the box.



    Then I cut some dowel to size and glued them into the box, so the MDF will rest on those (as well as the rage/resin seal i'll put around the inside edge and the layer of fiberglass over top when I go to seal it up).


  4. #24
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    Next I decided to pull the crap subwoofer out, to see if my amp can fit in its place.

    OH MY GOD, it's PLASTIC! Also, the speaker mount for the rear (and probably all) speakers is PLASTIC too! That really gives me the sh1ts... nasty stuff.



    ANYWAY, out it goes! I took note of the mounting points, and cut out a piece of MDF so i'll have something to screw the amp into. The amp JUST fits when you put the trim back on.

    I'll have to make up a couple of joining sleeves because the screws are mounted in the body, and they're not long enough. So i'll get some rod and bore it out, then tap a thread through it.. that should work.



    At this point I noticed a pretty sturdy looking lug where the sub was mounted into the frame. GROUNDING POINT!



    So I filed the paint off, ready. My ground wire is going to be all of about 6 inches.. lol!



    Then it was on to the wiring. Bose systems are normally pretty weird.
    I managed to get a wiring diagram, and from that, traced which wires were coming from the head units, and what they were for.



    It was actually quite straightforward, surprisingly. Previous versions of the Bose system in Audis' have been quite the PITA.







    This version doesn't even look as if it's got common line-out ground! (another quirk they usually have)





    Then I made a little bracket so I can mount the ReQ5 onto the wheel arch, inside the rear quarter cavity (where the Bose amp lives).



    The fun part was working out how to do the wheel arch curve. I bent some strips of metal around to make a bracket, which I mounted a couple of squares of MDF in the middle of to suit the standard ReQ mounting points.



    I could have used MDF to fabricate a whole bracket and blah blah blah, but no one will see this anyway. And it'll work just as well, if not better (suspension, vs rigid)



    I'll glue a couple of strips of velcro to the underside and to the wheel arch rubber/dampener, and it'll hold in fine.

  5. #25
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    I finished off the MDF mount for the amp;



    The bolts mounted in the frame weren't long enough, so I made these up to extend the bolts.




    After that, I started wiring in the Re-Q.

    OMG my back is killing me... but it's done. I've wired the Re-Q5 into the Bose amp wiring.



    The blue thing is a Posi-Tap, I didn't really want to cut the thick power wire, or the thick ground wire.

    I just ran another ground wire from the nearby bolt, easier.



    Then, the moment of truth! Does it work!? Yep!




    I installed the amp, but noticed a high pitched noise which modulated depending on engine revs (no sound when engine wasn't running) so thought i'd stuffed something. I ripped EVERYTHING out including the factory amp, and it was still there.

    Long story short - put the back seat back in, noise goes away (muffled). AAGGHH!

    So with version 2 of the install, I techflexed some of the cables and everything, hooked it all up and cable tied it everywhere.



    So there we go. All wired in... and it works! (Testing with my old Kicker Impulse ported sub atm)

    I also thought i'd pop those rear speakers out and put some sound deadener behind them. Hopefully it'll bring the stage up a bit better if they're surrounded by something more than a bit of sheet metal.



    On with the dynamat:



    And then on with the dynaliner:



    I had a bit of dynamat left over, so I put some bits on the back seat - especially those plastic bits which would resonate like anything..


  6. #26
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    Back to finishing the sub box...

    drill holes:



    Make a couple of washers out of fiberglass, drill more holes, cover with Loctite, then pop em in!



    That thin black layer is some Dynaliner which I put in for sealing/cushioning.



    Next I mixed up some Rage which I ran around the inside to give it a bit of a seal. Then I mixed up some resin and dabbed/dribbled that into the groove from the outside, so it's well sealed.

    Last bit.. I fiberglassed the MDF lid on... now waiting for it all to dry fully so I can give it a test.



    I think I waited long enough.. I added some rope 'pull tabs' so I can get the thing out of the boot once it's in there, too.



    Tweaked the HPF/LPF 70/15, and set the gains.



    IT SOUNDS AWESOME!
    (I need to get more petrol, been idling playing tunes for the past couple of hours... lol!)

    It's not finished yet, need to do some cosmetic stuff, but waiting on a couple of things to do that.

  7. #27
    Constant Bitrate
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    Very impressive work!!! Looks like you know exactly what you're doing!

  8. #28
    Constant Bitrate
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    Looking very nice (Y) definitely looking forward to seeing the final thing. Thanks for letting us see lots of pictures of the processes, giving me lots of ideas.

    I don't think I could have the patience to rip it all out because of the high pitch noise, mine had that and my attitude was more like 'aaah f*** it' lol.
    Car: Ford Focus
    Currently stock setup. Trying to decide on the best setup for me.

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